Help with light and nutrients

[Lnp32]

Can do a slurry test to check PH or just check runoff. Bit in organics you dont really want runoff as you will be removing available nutrients from the soil in doing so.

Purple on the petiole only is likely light intensity to the exposed petiole. Are they green a bit lower or in the shaded area? If so thats the cause and its of no concern.

I find root temls of 70-80f to be very good especially 75-80f. Its not like hydro where we want lower root temps. Around 75-80f the microbes will thrive and it will speed up the metabolism of both the microbes and the plants.

Room tempa of 80-84f and matching that to the low end of VPD for indica leaders and high end for sativa leaners.

When having issues the best thing you can do is reduce the light intensity until fixed. With high transpiration rates you get more nutrients to the plants and its a common cause of calcium issues if its low due root, air temps or high humidity. Can also be affected by salinity from over feeding.

IMO stop the molasses and other crap feed some cal mag, reduce the light a bit, adjust the environment and make sure your keeping it between 30-60% saturated. Microbes don't like to be dried out and plants and microbes need o2 so in soil you don't want to fully saturate the soil when using organics as the microbes also use o2 and there will be a high population with organics because of the increased food source.

Do you think watering 1 gallon / 4.25 litres per 7 gallon pots is enough water to not saturate but not leave dry spots too ?

 

[Aqua Man]

Do you think watering 1 gallon / 4.25 litres per 7 gallon pots is enough water to not saturate but not leave dry spots too ?

It all depends on how dry the soil is and how frequently your watering. A meter may help but the only other way to tell is weight a pot dry then fully soak it and weight it again. The difference is then your 100% saturation point.

So if 2 lbs dry and 4 lbs wet. Your 0% is 2 lbs and your 100% is 4 lbs. At 3lbs it would be 50% saturation.

Can do that until you get a feel for it. It's a rough guide doesn't need to be exact

 

[Lnp32]

It all depends on how dry the soil is and how frequently your watering. A meter may help but the only other way to tell is weight a pot dry then fully soak it and weight it again. The difference is then your 100% saturation point.

So if 2 lbs dry and 4 lbs wet. Your 0% is 2 lbs and your 100% is 4 lbs. At 3lbs it would be 50% saturation.

Can do that until you get a feel for it. It's a rough guide doesn't need to be exact

brilliant, thanks for the advice
im looking at the herbs now and they just look unhappy and the new growth and leaves at the top feel so dry and papery

 

[Aqua Man]

brilliant, thanks for the advice
im looking at the herbs now and they just look unhappy and the new growth and leaves at the top feel so dry and papery

To much light bro. They are stressed and in order to push hard with light your need to get the rest dialed in. Yes more light more yield but they can only use so much based on thier conditions and pushing em harder will make things worse. Par of 400-600max i would say about now. Give em a week to recover and go from there.

 

[Lnp32]

To much light bro. They are stressed and in order to push hard with light your need to get the rest dialed in. Yes more light more yield but they can only use so much based on thier conditions and pushing em harder will make things worse. Par of 400-600max i would say about now. Give em a week to recover and go from there.

thanks my friend Ive kept the light at 50% until today where i went for 75% until you mentioned reducing light earlier so went back down to 50%
ive been keeping the light between 30 - 50cm as manufacturer recommended but i think this light might be alot stronger than they make out

 

[Aqua Man]

thanks my friend Ive kept the light at 50% until today where i went for 75% until you mentioned reducing light earlier so went back down to 50%
ive been keeping the light between 30 - 50cm as manufacturer recommended but i think this light might be alot stronger than they make out

I think they are probably accurate... if the plants were firing on all cylinders.

 

[Lnp32]

I think they are probably accurate... if the plants were firing on all cylinders.

i think it might have something to do with adding amendments to already charged soil in canna terra pro then. Thats the only thing i can think of. The guano i added was quite strong and there are similarities to phosphorus toxicity aswell so maybe ive locked out other nutrients because the bat shit was too strong andthe roots are only just hitting it all now, 3 weeks later. Who knows ?!

 

[Aqua Man]

i think it might have something to do with adding amendments to already charged soil in canna terra pro then. Thats the only thing i can think of. The guano i added was quite strong and there are similarities to phosphorus toxicity aswell so maybe ive locked out other nutrients because the bat shit was too strong andthe roots are only just hitting it all now, 3 weeks later. Who knows ?!

Yeah and plant issues are usually close to a week old by the time they show signs... so always good to wait a week to see how they are actually responding.

 

[Lnp32]

Yeah and plant issues are usually close to a week old by the time they show signs... so always good to wait a week to see how they are actually responding.

i think i’ll give it one more week, if not improvement i will kill them and start from seed again.
this time i wont be adding anything to the already loaded canna terra pro. Theres enough in that to take me from seedling to flower anyway. Then when i flip i can feed the all purpose for the first 2 weeks of flower as they’ll need N for the stretch and from there just P and K

 

[Lnp32]

Just a quick update.
its been almost a week since i last posted and the plants did seem to make a bit of a recovery but now showing more signs of problems on the leaves.
I raised the lights just abit higher so it wasnt too intense for the plants and added some feed to them.
I dont know if its a K deficiency or nutrient burn. What do you guys think ? I fid read somewhere that bat guano high in P can cause soil to become slightly acidic ao not sure if thats played a part in the issue.

 

[lipifarmer]

give them some wind man..

 

[Lnp32]

give them some wind man..

ive got fans in there putting a nice breeze throughout the canopy so its not that.

 

[Entropy]

What is your water source? I had a similar symptom progression while using peat and dry amendments and I believe it came down to my water source. It was really hard water with some sodium in it and those minerals built up and caused lockout. Just something to consider especially with organics since you're not watering to run-off and a lot of dry-amendments have oystershell or limestone which can also raise medium pH.

 

[Lnp32]

What is your water source? I had a similar symptom progression while using peat and dry amendments and I believe it came down to my water source. It was really hard water with some sodium in it and those minerals built up and caused lockout. Just something to consider especially with organics since you're not watering to run-off and a lot of dry-amendments have oystershell or limestone which can also raise medium pH.

my water source is tapwater.
Im based in the uk and the ph from the tap is about 7.5 / 8ph.
I fill up a 5 gallon bucket with tap water. Then i apply approx 22 drops of ecothrive neutralise, which is a pure vitamin c liquid supplement used to neutralise tap water and removed cholrine and chloramine instantly. You apply 1 drop per litre so 5 gallons are roughly 22 litres, hence why i had 22 drops first.
I then use bio bizz ph down organic citric acid to lower ph to 6.2 / 6.3.
I then water until i get a tiny bit of run off but not much, just to make sure i wet the whole medium as im growing in 7 gallon / 30l fabric pots and if not watered properly, the water just runs off the sides and doesnt soak the whole medium.
Im growing in canna terra pro. I top dressed with......

60ml bat guano 1.10.1
60ml ecothive charge ( insect frass ) 3.2.3
60ml seaweed powder 1.0.1
60ml lavaworm ( worm castings ) and volcanic rock - no npk on pack, just states it contains necessary minerals.

as far as im aware, bat guano can acidify and lower ph of soil over time. I havent got a soil ph tester either which doesnt help.
What i did do just incase this is the case, was that i added a tiny amount of palm tree ashes to top dress each plant.
I applied 10ml top dress of guanokalong palm tree ashes 0.1.30 but it does state that palm tree ashes can raise ph in soil to 10ph if not used with caution. I know it isnt the palm tree ashes that have caused this problem because i top dressed with it after the plant showed these issues.
do you think its the lights ?
I keep them at manufacturers recommended heights of between 30 - 50cm above canopy at 50% in veg. The light is a lumatek zeus pro 600w led. Its an extremely good light and maybe its making the plants eat more and they could be hungry ? They dont look like hungry plants to me though.

 

[Entropy]

Do you know the potential alkalinity or even the ppm/EC of the tap water? It can sometimes be found online if you don't have a meter.

 

[Lnp32]

Do you know the potential alkalinity or even the ppm/EC of the tap water? It can sometimes be found online if you don't have a meter.

yes, the water where i am in uk is soft water.
has a ppm of roughly 50 out of tap and ph is roughly 7.5 / 8

 

[Lnp32]

I bought a ph soil tester and the reader is coming up at 6ph.
The soil has dropped slightly too acidic which now makes sense as its making it hard to uptake calcium, magnesium and P, possibly abit of K too.
Ive made sure i gave them a little too dress of palm tree ashes with a npk of 0.1.30, very potent stuff ! Ive only put 10ml top dress on each plant as i dont want the ph rocketing up.

 

[Growgerth24]

Why are you putting any ph down in your feed growing in a peat based mix?- you're probably acidic as hell, yes even with balanced feed.- besides there is buffer in the soil- ph of water doesn't matter. Measure your runoff. Some people might argue its not as accurate as a slurry, but if your runoff is really acidic- you know you have a problem.

I had this issue for years, and never could figure out why I was pulling my hair out trying to get my ph back up halfway through bloom. The fix- stop phing my water down to 7 - even at over 8 ph! And I also added more dolomite lime to my mix prior to potting- all problems gone.

Ffof, canna terra, roots organix, and even soilless promixhp, anything with peat wants to be acidic. Companies add buffers like sea shells and lime, but often not enough.

Dont use wood ash or calcitic lime to raise ph btw- it will cause problems.

If you're halfway through the round, take a couple tablespoons of dolomite lime and mix it with just a cup or so of soil. Top dress evenly and water to saturation- after about ten days you will start to see a difference.

 

[Growgerth24]

I didnt see your most recent response prior to my post my bad.

Let me know how those palm tree ashes work out, I have heard horror stories- but it sounds like you used it with caution.

 

[PK1]

look at the back of the leaves and see if you find any mites or little insects. From your previous pictures and your current i also see tip burns an indication that you are feeding to hard. You might wanna kick back a bit on your nutrients.