Lnp32
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Can do a slurry test to check PH or just check runoff. Bit in organics you dont really want runoff as you will be removing available nutrients from the soil in doing so.
Purple on the petiole only is likely light intensity to the exposed petiole. Are they green a bit lower or in the shaded area? If so thats the cause and its of no concern.
I find root temls of 70-80f to be very good especially 75-80f. Its not like hydro where we want lower root temps. Around 75-80f the microbes will thrive and it will speed up the metabolism of both the microbes and the plants.
Room tempa of 80-84f and matching that to the low end of VPD for indica leaders and high end for sativa leaners.
When having issues the best thing you can do is reduce the light intensity until fixed. With high transpiration rates you get more nutrients to the plants and its a common cause of calcium issues if its low due root, air temps or high humidity. Can also be affected by salinity from over feeding.
IMO stop the molasses and other crap feed some cal mag, reduce the light a bit, adjust the environment and make sure your keeping it between 30-60% saturated. Microbes don't like to be dried out and plants and microbes need o2 so in soil you don't want to fully saturate the soil when using organics as the microbes also use o2 and there will be a high population with organics because of the increased food source.
It all depends on how dry the soil is and how frequently your watering. A meter may help but the only other way to tell is weight a pot dry then fully soak it and weight it again. The difference is then your 100% saturation point.Do you think watering 1 gallon / 4.25 litres per 7 gallon pots is enough water to not saturate but not leave dry spots too ?
It all depends on how dry the soil is and how frequently your watering. A meter may help but the only other way to tell is weight a pot dry then fully soak it and weight it again. The difference is then your 100% saturation point.
So if 2 lbs dry and 4 lbs wet. Your 0% is 2 lbs and your 100% is 4 lbs. At 3lbs it would be 50% saturation.
Can do that until you get a feel for it. It's a rough guide doesn't need to be exact
To much light bro. They are stressed and in order to push hard with light your need to get the rest dialed in. Yes more light more yield but they can only use so much based on thier conditions and pushing em harder will make things worse. Par of 400-600max i would say about now. Give em a week to recover and go from there.brilliant, thanks for the advice
im looking at the herbs now and they just look unhappy and the new growth and leaves at the top feel so dry and papery
To much light bro. They are stressed and in order to push hard with light your need to get the rest dialed in. Yes more light more yield but they can only use so much based on thier conditions and pushing em harder will make things worse. Par of 400-600max i would say about now. Give em a week to recover and go from there.
I think they are probably accurate... if the plants were firing on all cylinders.thanks my friendIve kept the light at 50% until today where i went for 75% until you mentioned reducing light earlier so went back down to 50%
ive been keeping the light between 30 - 50cm as manufacturer recommended but i think this light might be alot stronger than they make out
I think they are probably accurate... if the plants were firing on all cylinders.
Yeah and plant issues are usually close to a week old by the time they show signs... so always good to wait a week to see how they are actually responding.i think it might have something to do with adding amendments to already charged soil in canna terra pro then. Thats the only thing i can think of. The guano i added was quite strong and there are similarities to phosphorus toxicity aswell so maybe ive locked out other nutrients because the bat shit was too strong andthe roots are only just hitting it all now, 3 weeks later. Who knows ?!
Yeah and plant issues are usually close to a week old by the time they show signs... so always good to wait a week to see how they are actually responding.
give them some wind man..
What is your water source? I had a similar symptom progression while using peat and dry amendments and I believe it came down to my water source. It was really hard water with some sodium in it and those minerals built up and caused lockout. Just something to consider especially with organics since you're not watering to run-off and a lot of dry-amendments have oystershell or limestone which can also raise medium pH.
Do you know the potential alkalinity or even the ppm/EC of the tap water? It can sometimes be found online if you don't have a meter.
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