help with recurring issue with SOME strains

  • Thread starter AJY
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phxazcraig

phxazcraig

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AJY said:
ok. finally obtained distilled water.

Followed the instructions from this site for slurry mix.
My PH after 20 mins was 6.5 and the same after 45 mins. ( My PH soil test meter tells me the soil has a PH of closer to 6.8 or 6.9 )
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For what it's worth, I'm growing in Coco and have, if anything, too much growth. I must be hitting a sweet spot. I've been running pH 6.0 in my DTW reservoir, and I've been running EC's up to 1500 or so, with no, or minimal tip burns. (You can see the plants in the thread Explosive Growth in Coco if you want.) I start with RO or distilled (or a mix) and initial EC is 20-50. (Tap water is about 500). I use Silicon Blast first, wait an hour, then add Calimagic at the rate of 2.5ml/gallon. The EC jumps to 300-400 just from that. I then add nutrients (GH), some humic acid (Nectar of the Gods) and a bit of Yucca powder as a wetting agent. I'm now feeding 5x/day and am into the second week of flowering.

When I mix up my nutes, I typically end up with a pH under 6.0 and I have to add just a bit of pH UP to raise it to 6.0 or 6.1. I have a Bluelab pH controller hooked to a bottle of pH DOWN controlling my reservoir. Occasionally I've seen my pH drop in the reservoir for unknown reasons, usually about 12-24 hours after a water change. That's happened twice in the last 5 weeks. No idea why, but it may be that adding 25ml of 35% H2O2 into the reservoir stops that from happening, as well as controls algae to some extent. I think that pH changes in the reservoir may be common, and that the pH you give your plants might or might not be what you think.

I've read that you can do well over a range of pH values (5.5 to 6.5 is what I usually read), but consistency of pH is important. In various charts of nutrient uptake versus pH ranges, it does seem that 6.0 is in a bit of a sweet spot in that it is OK for both flowering and veg.

I shoot for an ideal of 79F in the canopy, 50% RH (higher for veg), pH of 6.0 and EC usually a bit less than what GH recommends in their middle-of-the-road chart. I mix my nutes in a 10 gallon container (makes the math easy), pour it into my 14 gallon reservoir, and then I typically add another couple of gallons of RO water that has some Cal/Mag in it, but no nutes. It drops the EC often to 1400-something, less when plants were smaller.

The colors on my plants are definitely different from yours. Lots and lots of yellow new growth that quickly changes to green but not too dark.
 
A

AJY

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right on. Gonna get me an infrared test gun. my RH is pretty good at 60. unfortunately i'm iPhone at the moment. appreciate the deets !
 
A

AJY

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thank you. the soil was more or less living in the beginning... but then crops later I forgot to adjust down my PH. bad. New soil for next grow I think maybe.
I had read that some variation of PH can be a good thing.
 
PK1

PK1

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Ph nutrient
 
green bastard

green bastard

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Looks like soil ph or a nitrogen issue if you keep reusing soilnwithout a ph buffer aka gypsom or lime it will cause serious lockout issues try bumping up the N of thay doesnt work id do a soil drench with some powdered lime try and balance that ph
 
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AJY

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I see that ALOT more nutrients are available at that lower range, hydro. I'm surprised I'm not locked out worse than I am. thank you.
 
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AJY

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green bastard said:
Looks like soil ph or a nitrogen issue if you keep reusing soilnwithout a ph buffer aka gypsom or lime it will cause serious lockout issues try bumping up the N of thay doesnt work id do a soil drench with some powdered lime try and balance that ph
Click to expand...
I have done this for my lawn so I dont know why I dont for my indoor. This is my first experience with re-using soil. I wanted to try it for obvious reasons.
 
green bastard

green bastard

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Yeah just glad i could help woith some input to get that lady happy again
 
A

AJY

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PK1 said:
get your temps up to 80f+, i assume all your light settings, heights are all correct.
about your questions, i was told that some genetics are like that.
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I have to flip these birds to flower any day now...they are to large...wondering what room temp will be ok for flower ? I have yet to obtain an infrared meter...I generally keep the RH as low as I can and the temp around 70 F. this new info about LEDs & leaf temp has me curious.
 
A

AJY

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PK1 said:
get your temps up to 80f+, i assume all your light settings, heights are all correct.
about your questions, i was told that some genetics are like that.
Click to expand...
ok so I have an inkBird heatGun... my room temp hovers around 82˚ F... leaf temp average reading = 74˚ F. Lights are approx. 8" above canopy which I think is close to what Fluence recommends (down as low as 6" .)
 
PK1

PK1

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AJY said:
hey - Thanks for the chart. My room has stabilized about here at about Room temp 80 F ish - Leaf temp 78 F ish. the differential of 2˚ seems right. I used the below calculator to give me an idea of where I am at when I change certain parameters.

View attachment 1225567
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although it give you an idea, don't count on them that much. The coding permeameters aren't set for all the size of rooms and there could be varies. However, if the plant looks good then your on track
 
A

AJY

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PK1 said:
although it give you an idea, don't count on them that much. The coding permeameters aren't set for all the size of rooms and there could be varies. However, if the plant looks good then your on track
Click to expand...
right on- I appreciate the input there - I was seeing that there is a zone - and as you pointed out - other parameters that can effect the VPD. Plants seem to be eating faster this week...after a slight pause...keeping PH around 6.2 for the moment. I noticed that you gave me most everything I needed to know right out of the gate : 0 )
 
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