greenthumbdanny
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Sorry for jumping to a conclusion there Danny. Im sure you can understand how that happened. My apologies though. Im curious as to why you think Olyver is the only safe way to go, and why another electrican is merely "playing with fire" and "cut(ting) corners"? Im going to hit Olyver up through his site and see what he has to offer. While DX is ridiculously inexpensive, I really dont see any red flags with him. The 120 outlets wired for 240 are what some people want, and those people fully understand how to employ a 5-15 outlet with 240 power. He explains what is going on with them on his site so only a novice would plug a 120 ballast into it. Hes actually saving u money if your local store wont swap 120 cords for 240, mine will so i could care less. I have no idea how costly Olyver is there Danny. My only thought on it is hes got be more expensive than DX b/c DX is sooo inexpensive. The parts used by both seem to be of comparable quality, and they seem to offer identical services. The only difference I can tell is that Olyver has gained quite a following on this site. Im all ears as to why Olyver is better and if you/ or Olyver himself can make a compelling argument for it I can assure you Ill have no problem covering Olyver's bill. My opinion is that this should be cake work for any experienced electrician and acting like you need a specific guy to do it is ridiculous. Id love to hear why Im wrong.
Looks good. Would you ever intentionally wire a 125v receptacle at 240v like that other guy?There is very little similarities to what I build. There is no "quickwire" connections to the receptacles. Stranded wire instead of solid copper hook-up wire is what I use. All wires are connected with terminal lugs. I use SIEMENS breakers, loadcenters, relays, contactors, PLCs, etc, NOT SquareD. The only wall-switch style digital timer to use is AUBE, all the rest have high failure rates. There are no wirenuts inside anything I build. When contactors are enclosed in a wall mount enclosure, there should be some form of venting or internal fan. The only similarity is that they are loadcenters. If you are going to purchase a loadcenter, ask the manufacturer to show you internal photos. When you see internal views, look for how wires are terminated and how the loadcenter is attached to the gangboxes. Threaded pipe nipples join enclosures to gangboxes, make sure you see bushings as well as locknuts. It's hard to notice in the pix, but every unit I build is wall-mountable. I see no brackets on those other loadcenters.
It is eay to build a loadcenter with a few contactors, timer, breakers, and receptacles.
You shouldnt be so arrogant about your grow knowledge, after viewing that 10k room you built w/ magnums, your far from the be all end all authority on indoor growing. Not trying to be harsh, but after enduring your pompous responses I felt it was well warranted.
@Underground Seems I may have offended you, I'm sorry about the eye sore that let me continue my build for $100. Someday I will be able to afford nice stuff like Olyvers or DX. Until then, I will continue to do what I can within my humble ability and resources.
I'm not offended. We are just looking at things from different points of view. My point of view comes from 4 years of school, 8000 on the job training hours, 10+ years experience working for someone else as a project foreman and lead service tech, and another 2 running my own electrical contracting company.
But I never said anything about your build. I only responded to you saying I sounded like an idiot. I never said anything about your board, I honestly thought that your board was something you built for educational purposes. But if you still want to use your set up until you get a new one, I would suggest at least using 3 or 4 gang boxes and putting those relays in the free space. Enclose all your connections. Boxes don't just look pretty, they hold the smoke and limit the oxygen available hopefully giving you time to notice a problem before it turns into a ball of flame.
Why does my commercially available MLC-16 have 110V style plugs? If you are asking me why a commercially available assembly comes with 125v receptacles wired in a 240v configuration, I would say I guarantee you that it is not a UL listed assembly. Anybody can build a system with UL listed components, but that does not mean the assembly is UL listed. Why? Because some clown can wire a receptacle at the wrong voltage. And if that was something that was built in place, it would fail inspection.
Why would I not use 110V receptacles other then someone trying to plug a 110 Device into it?Well that is the main reason! If the proper receptacles are used you don't have to worry about something like that.
Why would I spend $ on upgrading my default 110V power cord on my ballast to a 220V power cord?I have no idea why you'd do such a thing. I'd just change the cord cap for a couple bucks.
Wow, that guy is an idiot!!! What kind of a moron wires 120 volt receptacles at 240 volts!?!?! What happens when people use their 120 cords so they will fit the outlet and then burn up their ballasts!?!?! And using medical grade receptacles some how make up for this?
Receptacles are designed in, and UL tested & listed in certain configurations to limit improper connections. If this guy was having his equipment tested or listed, they would fail him.
Completely irresponsible. :confused0054:
And as far as those other guys being some kind of experts or knowing this stuff... Niether one seems to know that it's not safe, in fact it's just STUPID to run neutral return current on the ground or bonding paths!
DX
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