How can I build a 24 light board?

Status
Not open for further replies.
I don't use the NEMA 5-15R Indsutrial spec grade receptacles anymore for flip box receptacles. Like UG said, twistlock are better, but Sunsystem seems to be the norm. I see Greenair has a 10 ballast flip box LFT-10. A customer attached their own lampcords to terminal strips on the exterior of the enclosure. I wonder if the exposure to heat and humidity might make the bare wires under the screws to oxidize over time.
I love this stuff for anywhere I think may be more prone to corrosion. It can be used on copper or aluminum. I also use it on my vehicles. Trailer connections, plow connections, anything really. I haven't bothered with that gray crap in years. This also makes for a lot cleaner installation.
 
336
43
The only time I build a loadcenter with Neutral/Ground bond is if it's a main loadcenter wired directly to the meter base or mains power. If it's just an 8 to 12 ballast loadcenter, then no Neutral/Ground bonding is done. I luv Ilsco products, especially their power distribution blocks and insulation piercing taps.
 
D

dxco

Guest
Neutral/Ground Bond -DB Darryl

Mod: Please don't ban me, this is in response to a false claim (lie) that Olyver posted to discredit my work -posting copyrighted material without permission, out of context, while deleting the caption. All can be verified by following the link below.
The picture Olyver (DB, Darryl, Groo or whatever ID he's using today) was kind enough to post, in a fraudulent attempt to discredit my work, was a picture taken from my 120/240v outlet wiring tutorial here: http://dxsoundco.com/240_receptacle_install.htm > Here is the caption that goes with the picture:
Connect the Neutral and Ground wires.
Locate neutral/ground buss (lots of green & white wires) & attach your Neutral & Ground. In the main panel the Neutral buss is usually “bonded” to the grounded enclosure so the neutral & ground are probably on a single buss. If separate connect to the corresponding buss.

That pic was an example of what you might find in your MAIN PANEL -not a pic of the inside of one of my panels.
Is somebody who will lie to potential customers someone you want to buy from?

DX
 
D

dxco

Guest
Also, Check out this website www.nowirenuts.com -you will soon be able to buy kits for Canadian Hobby Boxes, relays, delays, PLC's, anything you need to build your own flip box or lighting controller at a fraction of the cost!
Complete panels too: All built in the USA to US standards.

Don't get stuck with this:
 

greenthumbdanny

Premium Member
Supporter
1,573
63
Mod: Please don't ban me, this is in response to a false claim (lie) that Olyver posted to discredit my work -posting copyrighted material without permission, out of context, while deleting the caption. All can be verified by following the link below.
The picture Olyver (DB, Darryl, Groo or whatever ID he's using today) was kind enough to post, in a fraudulent attempt to discredit my work, was a picture taken from my 120/240v outlet wiring tutorial here: http://dxsoundco.com/240_receptacle_install.htm > Here is the caption that goes with the picture:
Connect the Neutral and Ground wires.
Locate neutral/ground buss (lots of green & white wires) & attach your Neutral & Ground. In the main panel the Neutral buss is usually “bonded” to the grounded enclosure so the neutral & ground are probably on a single buss. If separate connect to the corresponding buss.

That pic was an example of what you might find in your MAIN PANEL -not a pic of the inside of one of my panels.
Is somebody who will lie to potential customers someone you want to buy from?

DX
Please, no need to cause trouble my friend:)
If i was to post a shitty example of somebody else's grown pot>> example Chem D>>done right<<<thread
Say i take a farmers picture from here or any other website out there and post it as a shitty example of Chem D not being done right<< that in no means is stealing your intellectual property<<It's just posting facts

Olyver was just showing a example of wiring>>>not done right<<<is all, is the way i see it


gtd
 
336
43
DX, Dan or whatever your name is, you are a piss ant. The inside of your enclosures don't even have bushings. Your gang-boxes will come loose very easilly. The cheap GE/Intermatic timers you use are garbage, over 30% failure rate. I don't care about getting banned. You copy my website like a child.

Now lets look at this unit, where are your bushings, is that 16awg wire you're using for the receptacles.

Isn't that another one of your pix on a wiring tutorial showing neutral/ground bond in a loadcenter.

Good luck on your kit selling on your new website, isn't it just a copy of your 4 or 5 loadcenters you've ever built.

Mods, ban me if you wish.
 
336
43
Parden me while I get back to work building a 40 light custom lighting controller with Veg and Flower PLC sync to a 20 ballast flip approved and passed inspection by Electrical Safety Authority.

The 40 lights are all linked to 3 SIEMENS PLCs, The PLC program has over 100 blocks with various timing parameters. This is what I build. I'm not going to get into a who's is better equipment, it speaks for itself. Perhaps you should get a booth and attend the indoor garden expos in the the United States and spend money of you believe you have a better and less expensive unit.

By the way, in Canada no relays, contactors, or other components can be mounted in an enclosure that contains over current devices, so NON of your units would ever be passed by an Electrical Inspector in Canada.
 
336
43
What was so unique about this 3-phase loadcenter is the veg and flower control. When in flower, the loadcenter keeps the ballasts on for 11 hours and 55 minutes, then shuts them off for 5 minutes, all delayed 2 ballasts at a time. Each 12 hours all the lights are on in two greenhouses.

When veg cycle is selected, it gets complicated. For the first 6 hours all the lights are on in greenhouse A. After 6 hours, half the lights shut off in greenhouse A and turn on in greenhouse B. For thr next 12 hours half the lights in each greenhouse checkerboard off and on, every hour. Then after 18 hours, the lights all stay on in greenhouse B.

Both greenhouse get 18 hours of light, greenhouse A gets all lights on at the beginning and greenhouse B gets all lights on at the end of 18 hours. Every hour that the lights checkerboard, the ballast(s) shut off 2 at a time, for 1 minute, then turn back on. While the 2 ballasts are off, 2 lights that were off, flip with 2 lights that were on. This happends 10 timed every hour, but many delays programmed into the PLC.
 
think yall gunna have a stroke when ya see my connectors!

IMAG0432.jpg


IMAG0433.jpg


btw, would someone mind helping me understand what the objectionable current is, and how to avoid it? I did some research, and it sounds something like "do not connect neutral to ground" ? Is that right, where do I connect neutral to then?
 
D

dxco

Guest
Objectionable current:

think yall gunna have a stroke when ya see my connectors!

View attachment 124924

View attachment 124925

btw, would someone mind helping me understand what the objectionable current is, and how to avoid it? I did some research, and it sounds something like "do not connect neutral to ground" ? Is that right, where do I connect neutral to then?
You're exactly right. The neutral and ground must have their own path to the service equipment (your main panel) -where they are eventually connected together. The idea is not to have current flowing through your ground (your panel, the conduit, etc.). The way to avoid this is to run a ground and neutral to your main panel and never allow them to be hooked together on any of your equipment. If your ground is dedicated like it should be there will always be a path for any fault current (a short) to make it's way to earth, trip a breaker and not cause any real problems (except for a smoked ballast, etc.).
Hope that helps ~ And I like your work. Be Safe!
DX
 
D

dxco

Guest
DX, Dan or whatever your name is, you are a piss ant. The inside of your enclosures don't even have bushings. Your gang-boxes will come loose very easilly. The cheap GE/Intermatic timers you use are garbage, over 30% failure rate. I don't care about getting banned. You copy my website like a child.

Now lets look at this unit, where are your bushings, is that 16awg wire you're using for the receptacles.

Isn't that another one of your pix on a wiring tutorial showing neutral/ground bond in a loadcenter.

Good luck on your kit selling on your new website, isn't it just a copy of your 4 or 5 loadcenters you've ever built.

Mods, ban me if you wish.

OLYVER (GROO, DB, Douche-Bag Darryl or whatever your name is),
My website was posted months ago before I knew what a "Candian Hobby Box" was. I found your website only after a Canadian customer told me he was considering buying a flip from you and asked me to look. I actually told him your stuff looked good (which I regret now because I'm sure you have NEVER done the same). In the post that I pointed out your neutral bonded to the enclosure, if you look back you will see that I also said your work looked really nice & complimented you on the gang-boxes & heavy-duty mechanical contruction. If not for the bonded neutral that box was perfect. You will also recall that the only reason I posted that in the first place was after you bashed my work and also allowed Underground to go on about the 5-15R plugs knowing that almost every manufacturer has done the same at one time, including you! Other industries have trade associations, networking sites, etc. -I would be interested in talking to other panel builders without talking down their work. I could NEVER, EVER imagine you being part of such a thing because you have probably badmouthed every manufacturer there is!
And, that is actually 12 ga wire connecting the loads and 14 ga connecting the controls. Bushings: Would be a good idea but they are not needed because these devices are meant to be mounted to a wall -not in a van. Same goes for using rigid nipples instead of box connectors. I'll certainly admit that your boxes can surely withstand some abuse and are mechanically overbuilt (a good thing) but the thing is that I am producing panels that do the exact same thing as yours at a much lower cost. If somebody wants a panel they can throw down a flight of stairs, I would accomodate the request but it seems like a waste of time. Oh, I have not build many flips -I previously thought they were a waste of steel until recently seeing some non-conventional uses.
I have seen your posts badmouthing Powerbox, CAP, Horticontrol, etc. -I'm sure there are others.
And I would never copy your website unless I wanted to look like an illiterate moron or somebody studying english as a second language.
Bonded Neutral: The picture you posted was not of one of my panels & you knew that which is an example of your typical sales technique of misrepresenting and twisting the facts to make other manufacturers look bad in an attempt to make you look good. Didn't your mama teach you that doesn't work but almost always backfires and makes you look like the troll that you are? Posting a picture I used as an example of the readers main panel ground/neutral buss is underhanded and a downright lie.
Here is the 240 volt wiriing tutorial where you copied the picture -Read the caption below the pic: http://dxsoundco.com/240_receptacle_install.htm

Do you think your customers are stupid? I think you do -I've seen your answers to posts in this and other forums. I've seen you pose as a customer to spam your site while badmouthing your "competition" -Just be honest -and sell your products on their own merit -there's no need to dis' others. It's not right unless you are pointing out a potential safety issue like I did to NGW about their 30A controller in my "why four prongs" doccument seen here: http://dxsoundco.com/why_four_prongs.htm
BTW: I contacted NGW about the potential hazard of ther three-prong, 120/240v design long before using the pic -they need to fix it before something happens and it becomes a liability or somebody gets killed.
>Those timers are not Jasco/GE or intermatic -they are Utilitech (Woods/Coleman Cable also sells the same timer but they also sell the Jasco POS) The Utilitech & Woods timers with the button in the center are very reliable timers for our purpose. The Honeywell/Aube timers are also very reliable. Both have exceptional interference resistance and will last for years.
As far as those being the only controllers I ever built... Whatever, DBD -You don't need to know the volume of business I do but I can tell you that I am very well versed in the NEC, have a much better education than you (if your spelling and grammar are any indication), probably more electrical experience, and have overseen some very large projects over the years. I build these controllers because I believe in and support the MM cause and was able to resume a normal life, after two years of heavy-duty pain killer prescriptions, because of a caregiver providing high grade MM at a reasonable price (my first DX Hydro customer). The caregivers deserve to be able to buy controllers that will keep their garden safe without paying for overpriced crap they don't need. If one of my controllers or something somebody reads on my website save a life someday, I've also got some good karma coming -maybe a couple more years of pain-free existance.
So, you might want to rethink your whole attitude & try to quit acting like a douche-bag, be a little nicer to people and let your products sell because of the care that goes into them rather than by badmouthing everybody elses work. People see right through the retarded rhetoric and the lies. You build nice stuff and your attention to detail is obvious & if I was a grower I might buy one of your products -That is until you opened your mouth!
PS: If you are going to infringe upon my coptyrighted images, please use them in context rather than trying to mislead the reader.

DX
 
336
43
The K-mart style Utilitech timers you use are garbage, 30% failure rate. Did you have any luck selling your Zumba fitness Wii on Ebay with your other crap.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Zumba-Fitness-Wii-2010-Next-Day-Shipping-Included-/120662432057?pt=Video_Games_Games&hash=item1c180a9939

I've had several PMS from others all laughing at your units. You say the stuff I build is over-priced, at least all components are professonal brands (Siemens, Omron, Aube, etc) not some no-name crap you use.

Infringing on copyrighted pix, let's see the proof it's copyrighted. You must keep busy with your Ebay sales, lol. Call me any name you like, it's easy for a coward to do behind a keyboard. I will be at the Indoor Garden Expo in Vancouver, Canada this year, drop by and say hello, I would luv to meet you.

http://www.facebook.com/pages/DX-Hydro/161367970568510
I see you have quite the following on Facebook, what a loser.
 
336
43
You are right, I have bad-mouthed alot of companies, stating in my opinion they did incorrect or unsafe assembly. Powerbox, Horticontrol, Hydrosolutionz, Jolly Rodger, Sunlight Supply, IPControls/Equalizer, Polarbear Manufacturing, CVRMfg, ElectroYield etc. are all companies I have said in my opinion make unreliable products. We are all entitled to our opinions, so from now on I will never comment on any of your American Hobby Boxes. The previous companies, half are now out of business and hundreds of non-functioning lighting controllers sold to customers.

You are right, this is only a hobby. If I had $100K, the other half of the companies mentioned would probably go out of business too, lol.

Best Regards

Darryl
Olyver (my dog)
Alf (my dog)
Groo (comic)
 
D

dxco

Guest
Please close this thread

Mod, Please close this thread. It's gotten retarded.
Thanks,
DX
 
336
43
I called you at your number, why no answer. Call me a cop, you fucking goof. BAN me all you want, who gives a fuck. If you don't want to buy my shit, who cares, buy some garbage from this loser. I left you another email, go call the cops the fucking goof.
 
336
43
The Neutral/Ground bond in the panel with a main breaker is up to the electrician to leave or remove the bond.
 
I don't see why you are fighting over sales, it seems liek DX offers lower end affordable solutions, and Olyver offers high end custom solutions. I'm sure you both make great products.
 
DX Im so happy that you posted Olyvers voice message he left on your google voice acct. Since you sent it to me last week Ive listened to it at least 5 times. Its fucking hilarious, he reminds me of a spoiled brat sorority girl I dated in college. I actually believed all of the hype on this site about Olyver, but now I see it for what its worth. Its an overbuilt box, that is built to absorb abuse. I dont know why or even how you would abuse a stationary panel. IMHO they produce products that perform the same exact functions, Dans actually seem to be safer, based on the fact that he follows USA electrical codes and hes right on about objectional current, look it up. If I have offended anyone with my opinion, so be it. If you wanna ban me GTD, Ill just have to live with it. I treat people how they treat me, I was treated to bad manners and unsound logic, at least I treated you to some sound logic. The thing that makes this site great is the discourse that occurs on here, and this is the best site of its kind. By banning DX and I for what has gone on in this thread your hampering the discourse, and really just acting as an enforcer for your boy Olyver. Thats just the way I see it.
 
no moderator mentioned banning that i saw. I know people have products to sell here, so name calling and flaming may reflect bad about respective companies <<<< just in my personal opinion.
 
427
0
no moderator mentioned banning that i saw. I know people have products to sell here, so name calling and flaming may reflect bad about respective companies <<<< just in my personal opinion.
A couple people were banned in the last couple weeks including DX. They were unbanned only a couple days ago.

I think both of you should drop it and just learn to build em like mine. I bond nuetral and ground in my room that constantly floods... I hold onto the ballast and fans for balance since the wet floor is slippery.
I can take pics with the cover off if you really want a heart attack :party0042:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top