How Do I Control these> are they too tall?!

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richellemason

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Hello,
this is my first post here but I have been browsing this forum for a few months and got some great tips, so any help with my questions is greatly appreciated.
-Strain: White Widow.
-Equipment: b.c.n.l prod.ucer under 2 400 hps
- almost 3rd week of flowering
- Advanced nutes per the schedule ( almost)
- Have not started Co2 yet.
- temp in room 74-82 degrees.


the tallest one is about 26 inches ( a few more inches than pictures taken 2 days ago) should I start tying them down? should I start Co2 already? how are they looking for the end of 2nd week flowering? any comments greatly appreciated.
 
How do i control these are they too tall
How do i control these are they too tall 2
How do i control these are they too tall 3
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Tokenblack

Tokenblack

60
6
You need to clip the the tops of your Colas, first for the fact that they will multiply but also so that you force the Potassium and cellulose to the outsides of the plants hence making them grow sideways or "Bush-Out" instead of growing taller and taller.

Your probably cutting the bottom to low leaves because they're not catching any light and you figure "why waste the nutes, right?"

Correct thinking, but if you want your plants to grow bushier, "trim the tops" and in reverse, if you want your plants to grow taller, "trim the sides".

Another side point in your room is that in the third week of flowering you want your temperature to be around 68-80 degrees farenheit, but the fact of the matter is what is the humidity in your grow-op?

Im guessing that in the amount of vegetation and Oxygen output of your plants your humidity must be getting in the 80 percentile. Ventilation is still probably a good thing you got going with your fans, but the amount of runoff from your nutes into your water is a VERY bad thing. If you are using rockwool fiber and clay pellets, you must remember that you have to "prewash" your hydrated clay pellets. Though the pellets are void of any pH changing elements, the amount of buildup in those flood containers is WAY too full of bad stuff.

Also, from your pics (in your best resolution *giggle*) your beginning to have to much root rot on your containers. From my view of the containers (they seem to be white) which could explain for the possibility of there being some kind of ALGAE growth in your flood containers ("remember you want your roots to be in a LIGHT PROOF container")......"aint no sunshine in the dirt where they reside"....
*Just spray paint the outside of your containers with Matte Black spray paint. Get your self a 3% mixed version of some Hydrogen Peroxide (food grade at 35%) and then add it at 1 part to each 12 parts, thereby making at 3% and at the best grade.

****READ BELOW FOR HYDROGEN PEROXIDE IN YOUR SYSTEM****
How to use/apply it

H2O2 comes in several different strengths: 3%, 5%, 8% and 35%, also sold as food grade Hydrogen Peroxide. The most economical is 35% which we recommend be diluted to three percent before using. When working with food grade H2O2, it is very important that you clean up any spills or splashes immediately, it will damage almost oxidize everything very quickly. Skin will be temporarily bleached pure white if not washed cleaned. Gloves are strongly recommended when working with any strong chemical. Food grade H2O2 can be diluted to three percent by mixing it one part to eleven parts water (preferably distilled). The storage container should be opaque to prevent light from getting in and it must be able to hold some pressure. If three-liter pop bottles are available in your area they are ideal for mixing and storing H2O2. There are twelve quarter liters (250ml) in three liters, if you put in one quarter liter H2O2 and eleven quarter liters (250ml) water in the bottle it will full of three percent H2O2 and the bottle can hold the pressure that the H2O2 will generate. Three percent Hydrogen Peroxide may be added at up to 3 ml's per liter (2 1\2 tsp. per gallon), but it is recommended that you start at a lower concentration and increase to full strength over a few weeks. For hydroponic applications, use every reservoir change and replace twenty-five percent (one quarter) every day. Example: In a 100L (25gal) reservoir you would add three hundred ml's (3%) H2O2 when changing the nutrient. You would then add seventy-five ml's more every day. [Editor’s note: high concentrations of H2o2 can be detrimental to organic additives (such as beneficial additives) and organic nutrient mixtures.]

Application: US Standard

1. 28*G/C= Liquid Oz's per day
Metric 10*L/C= Ml per day
Where; C= % concentration of H2O2 L= Number of liters in reservoir G= Number of Gallons in reservoir

Example: How much 3% H202 should I add to 7 gallons of nutes?
1. 28*7/3=2.986 Oz's each day.

***IN HYDROPONICS***

Change your nutrients. Add H2O2 to the system. This will add oxygen and chemically eat dead roots. If roots are badly rotted and can be pulled away by hand, you should cut them off. They are already dead and will only rot, causing further problems. Add a fungicide to kill any fungus that is probably present in the rotted tissue to prevent it from spreading. Increase aeration of the reservoir – add air pumps and stones. An air stone under every plant is usually very effective, but will require a larger air pump. Decrease the reservoir temperature, oxygen dissolves better in cold water and disease causing organisms reproduce slower as well. A good temperate range is 62F to 65F; anything above 70F will eventually cause a problem. It is also a good idea to remove any wilting plants from the system and put them on a separate reservoir so they don't infect plants that are still healthy.

I know that is alot of information but im here to help.

Your biggest problems in the nutshell is the lower of the temp, to offshoot the amount of heat from your lights.

Then adjust the humidity much lower given the surrounding temperatures.

After you have added about 1/2 fl Oz to every gallon within your growing hydro kit, you should be good for killing off all the dead microbes in your water as well as cleaning and killing off the bad parts off your root system, thus making their uptake of nutrients much more efficient.

Anybody else got any answers im always here!!!

Send me your question, info, updates, hell gimme an invite for a smokeout.....
 
R

richellemason

6
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tokenblack, thanks so much for replying, the "dirt/brown sludge" you are seeing in the pictures is from me mixing piranha and tarantula ( advanced nutes powder) I forgot to use a nylon sock/ coffee filter to strain the powder through and thus im seeing clumps of brown stuff on my roots, I have called advanced nutes and they said its normal, interesting idea about clipping the colas, I might actually do that on half of them to try it out. I do not trim much of the bottom since I have the t5 lights down there. again thanks for the input and I will post a few other threads about the few other grows I have going on.

cheers,
Richelle
 
J

Jalisco Kid

Guest
Clean your roots, if that is the clay fluff from the bennies. Your room looks pretty but not well designed. You need more lumens for bud. shame the tanks are so close together as you will just create a mess. Next time maybe use a lst tech and flip them smaller. If it was mine and I had to use that sys I would bend the plants so one is at a 45* to the left and the next would be 45* to the right. Since it looks like you have done a lot of work I doubt you would want to rip it out and start over. You might try a vert scrog in there. You could run a plastic fence material vertically over your tanks and vert light on both sides. JK

I would move or turn off those t5's not doing much good down there
 
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richellemason

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thanks, the dirt material is from some of the powder nutes ive added in there, im looking into a scrog method that would work there, never done scrog before.
 
MakinGoo

MakinGoo

11,029
438
I would juss bend them.. I don't like 2 top the plants well there flowering.. I top in veg & give them 2 weeks 2 grow new heads b4 the 12/12 flip..
 
TrichromeFan

TrichromeFan

1,850
83
OK, I would hold off till next week or use just at a lower level the Co2. You're almost done with stretch anyhow. Looks like your hoods have glass in them. They're air cooled, right? You should be able to get fairly close if that's the case. Just watch for any light bleaching or burning on the highest tops. I would definitely not reccomend topping at this point in the run. I never top once I start flower. It delays maturation, and confuses the plant which is trying to produce flowers. Next time, just stretch some trellis over the tops of the plants when they first go in. Then you can train them, and keep them lower and more uniform height ideally. Check out my thread if you want to see an example of what it looks like. I would save those T5's for something else as well. Your roots do look sparse for a plant that is two weeks into flower. How long have they been in those net pots? How long did you veg them for? Is there a specific reason why you gravitated towards a water culture style of growing? Some better pics would be more helpful as well. Thanks.

-TF
 
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richellemason

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Hello TF, they have been in the net pots for total of 5-6 weeks, got them as rooted clones and took me 3 weeks to veg them before flipping to flower. these machines do most of the work for you thats why i chose to go this route, I have some other machine still in veg I might wait a little longer for that one. thanks for your reply and your time. cheers.
 
TrichromeFan

TrichromeFan

1,850
83
richellemason,
Not to poo poo the hydro system that you are using, but at 3 weeks of veg and another two in flower you should have a ton of roots. I don't know exactly why that is not the case, but for simple you could dirt or coco. Even a rockwool setup would be easier to master than water culture in my experience. Have you ever considered a different style of grow?

-TF
 
QuarterbackMo

QuarterbackMo

810
93
richellemason,
Not to poo poo the hydro system that you are using, but at 3 weeks of veg and another two in flower you should have a ton of roots. I don't know exactly why that is not the case, but for simple you could dirt or coco. Even a rockwool setup would be easier to master than water culture in my experience. Have you ever considered a different style of grow?

-TF

I agree I didn't even see how big those plants were compared to that root zone there's definitely something not right going on there...

I'm not trying to hijack the thread here but this is a pic of my roots at 2 1/2 weeks veg from clone in the UC like 3 grows ago...

RootsUC
 
sog1313

sog1313

102
18
i would definitely bend your plants down. not too much tho you dont want to break anything, but it will help control the height and get more potent HPS lumens to other parts of the plant. without knowing more details of your setup i cant say more, but yeah you should have way more root than that. i would not recommend painting the containers black as that will absorb the light and warm up the plastic, but some foil pipe tape or even duct tape (couple layers) should do the trick. with water culture grows it all about maintaining low temps in the rez.
 
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Budshoteyes

25
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The roots worry me too! You barely have any roots for the size of your plants!
What size RW are you using....if you are that is?
I've heard of root lock before but don't know the solution....could be not enough. Oxygen in the water!!! And it could be the water level in the buckets...above or below the net pot bottoms?

The one time I heard of root lock was on another site....his roots barely reached into the bucket though he was using RW and hydroton....otherwise the plant looked fine! We just couldn't come up with a fast answer!
 

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