How much mosquito dunk should I use?

[PDX420Grower]

I've had a fungus gnat here and there and decided to use mosquito dunks. I bought the summit mosqutio dunks and they seem bigger then the ones at home depot. My question is - How much should I use? A whole tablet per gallon of water? (Im in soil) More? Less? Should I let it sit for a day like I read somewhere? Should I drench the soil more then once? I just dont wanna over do it. (If its possible) BTW, I am sure its fungus gnats and not root aphids. (I caught a few of the adults on a sticky trap) Thanks. -PDX

 

[sky high]

Yo PDX...

I drop a dunk in a 5 gal bucket and just let it ride. Then I dip a small bucket full out of the bucket (1/2 gal, maybe) and add it to my irrigation water on each watering. The dunks from HDePOT say they are good for 30 days in ponds/etc. so I use up the 5 gallons in a few weeks and start a new dunk/bucket if needed...just to be sure.

you can't overdue it....give em fuckin Hell!

best of luck

s h

 

[dextr0]

Ive used em in my grow once or twice. I never used it as a leave alone in my rez or anything, but I did sprinkle like a forth over my soil. Simply just crumble up and spread around the top. Drying out does not harm anything so dont worry about them drying out.

On another note I usually find that if your getting gnats its usually that your leaving your soil too wet. Give them dry periods.

 

[oldschooltofu]

dunks (10%)dont work as good as powdered BTI (100%) from the hydro store.

RA and FG look exactly the same on the sticky traps. i thought i was treating for FG and actually had RA. look at the rim of the pots, drainage holes, and lower leaves for crawlers.

 

[PDX420Grower]

Thanks! I got a puck soaking in a bucket as I type. Might try sprinkling a crushed up puck on top of the soil as well. I've only noticed a flyer once (weeks ago) and killed the stupid bastard without noticing another til last week. I put out sticky traps and caught an adult. Im 99.9% sure its gnats but
if the dunks dont work, I'll start looking into a possible RA problem. (HOPE NOT) I'm transplanting pretty soon so I'll have a good chance to inspect the roots. Thanks again to all who replied. Much appreciated.:bow -PDX

 

[dankworth]

Mosquito dunks didn't do shit for me. It takes a lot of them. And it takes a while to work. I was underwhelmed.
Microbelift has a BTi slurry they sell online. Don't get the smallest(2 oz)size. It is far more diluted than all the other sized containers. All the regular sizes have a dosage rate of 6 drops/100 gallons. At that rate it will last you forever.
Or you can rock a tea made with Capulator's foliar mix. I used that to treat my RA probrem, and have since stopped using my Microbelift product. Cap's foliar mix it would seem takes care of fungus gnats too.
Heard of PM? Heard of Actinovate? Heard of Capulator? Well, his new and improved version will have a PM fighting strain as well.
I am always looking to get the best value and save the most money. I am not out to spend money on crap.
Cap's foliar mix is an investment in security. Making teas out of it stretches your dollar way further. Matter of time until RAs come to you. Or PM.
Living in P-town and all...

PS fungus gnats are really stupid, slow, and lacking in survival instincts. They appear to rely on reproductive rate as their survival strategy. If you see one flyer, there should be lots more flyers. They fall for sticky traps. RAs do not.
RAs are smart, fast, observant(they see you coming from a mile away and move quickly away from you) and have rather good survival instincts. They will even move to the other side of the container to hide from you.
And if you see a nasty white sticky buildup on the wall of your rootball it is RAs.

 

[oldschooltofu]

yea, best way is to check your roots for white waxy fungus they make.

also if you have RA flyers, you will see them crawling on the pots and lower stem.

also RA flyers hang around the soil/plants, FG tend to populate the roof of your room. the flyers look identical on a sticky trap. so check your roots asap. both bugs will kill your roots, no roots = extremly low yields

 

[Buddy Hemphill]

I use MicerobeLift at about 2-3 times the amount they recommend.

With that and DE I dont get gnats.


I hit every cutting I get with Merit 75 and floramite. I dont get mites or RA's or gnats.

Good prevention is the cure all.

 

[cheech]

I also wanted to say mosquito dunks didn't do shit for me. I had 3 dunks in each 20 gallon rez. Thought I'd kill the adults with the sticky traps and the eggs would stop hatching or whatever. Just endless adults even after using the dunks for 6 months about. Buying gnatrol next to see how that goes. Good thing is the fungus gnats aren't slowing a thing down. About to harvest a 2nd gnat infested room.

 

[Buddy Hemphill]

Isn't gnatrol BTi?

Compare strength and price to Microbelift. Its waaaaaaay cheaper and stronger.

And you can buy it at Ace.

So I will quit beating this drum now.......:bong2:

 

[PDX420Grower]

If the dunks dont work, I'll checkout the hydro store or maybe give the microbelift a try. Thanks for the tips.:happy

 

[cheech]

Buddy the microbe lift at ace... You just use it at 3x recommended dosage in your rez and feed.... How often did you have to do this before you noticed results? Can you do repeat dosages with no ill effects to plants?

DE won't work for me because I water my containers with a hose.... Powder gets wiped out instantly.

 

[Buddy Hemphill]

Buddy the microbe lift at ace... You just use it at 3x recommended dosage in your rez and feed.... How often did you have to do this before you noticed results? Can you do repeat dosages with no ill effects to plants?

DE won't work for me because I water my containers with a hose.... Powder gets wiped out instantly.

Yup...

I started a run using it and never saw a gnat. I was using dunks and would see a gnat every know and then. Then I got the dreaded RA.

ML was a part of my pest management program after the RA's....so I cant speak as too its ability to wipe out an infestation. (INFESTATIONS of any bug are a BITCH...a diligent IPM program is the key)

I've never seen an ill effect. I just pulled 1.85 p's/candle in soil.:party0044:


I water with a hose also. Unless you are blowing it out of the container....its doing the job. It may look like its not there...but when you bust the pot down, you can see how it makes a kinda "cakey" layer on the top 4-6 inches of soil when it binds with the dirt..

I have put too much so that the top layer was like a 6 inch thick dried out cow turd sitting on top of my soil....it made watering harder because the water wouldn't go into the soil....I had to water them sloooooowly....that sucked.

But no worries...a few minutes spent scratching the topsoil fixes it.

I really dont even measure the stuff. I run indoor planters and its super easy to apply and kills anything that tries to get in the soil thats not microspopic, basically.

Its cheap..organic..and doesn't transfer to my meds.



I went the chem solution route for RA's and spider mites. They are toxic and suck to apply, they are carcenogenic.

The 'chem pesticide' research I have done taught me 'organic prevention' is the best route for consumables.

 

[Pimples]

This is an old post....but root aphids look nothing like gnats first off. And alot of you misltake aphids for fungus gnats. I guarantee it. Root aphids are not common indoors. Thrips...mites. and fungus gnats are. Gnats are quick to move around on the top of your medium. They seem "smart" but when they take to the air...they arw poor flyers. I bet 70% of growers that think they have. Root aphids actually have the common fungue gnat. And they arent hard to keep controlled

 

[Trixxi]

So had a question would the mosquito bit be harmful to hypoaspis?