How to exhaust up chimneys the easy way.

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todgerdelburro

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I like exhausting up chimneys for a number of reasons.

For security, it is the most obvious and innocent place for LEO to see a stream of hot air pumping out of your house, any other place and no matter how stealthy, it lights up the various Infa Red systems they often use.

Secondly, the smells, years before Carbon Filters became available I used to grow with no filter, Ozone, nothing, all because my vent went out 10M above street level. The odour does not [usually] drop, hunters use 6M high seats to wait for Deer and Foxes, both animals with excellent senses of smell.



How to do it .....

My experiences apply to English 3 bed 1930s brick built semis, but hopefully some or all will apply to most people.

To make a 6" hole to take ducting in your chimney, get a lump hammer and cold chisel and carefully start chipping away the mortar around 2 or 3 bricks. If

the building is in decent condition this should be no problem, I have failed to collapse any chimney stacks on myself to date but you never know....

Right, you now have 3 bricks out and a hole that will more than take a 6" duct. Get hold of a proper rigid steel 6" 90 degree bend duct, 'L' shaped pipe .....very cheap from ventialtion suppliers, plenty around on scrapheaps.

Take your 'L' shaped 90 degree bend and put it in a large HD rubbish sack so one end of the L pipe is at the bottom of the sack.

Tie some string tightly around this the end of the pipe, then cut out the 'drum' bit that was stretched tightly accross the bottom.

You now have a 6" 90 degree ventilation duct wearing a fetching black plastic skirt on it's outside, held on at the top by a 'string belt'.

Stick this into your new chimney hole with the 'string belt' end first and get it into position. This means, so the top fires your air directly up, the bottom, directly into your room.

Now the clever bit, get a can of expanding foam and stick the nozzle between the duct and the skirt, it fills up, keeping the foam away from the bare chimney

[a small detail, but just wait till you try to clean that crap off...]

You have your 90 degree ducting taking care of the entrance and turning upwards, solidly and silently fitted into your chimney in a way that you can easily dismantle and repair to original when you need to. Controlled by the foam trapped inside the plastic skirt, the top bit you can no longer see should still have a full unhindered exit, much harder if you just let the foam run wild.

Obviously, keep the old bricks handy & learn a little bit about cement & mixes, so you can make the repairs easily and invisible.


I hope this is clear, please ask if anything is not.
 
B

British_Hempire

Guest
Good guide, nice one.

I grew in the cellar of a large semi-detached victorian townhouse for several years and it had an old fireplace in there, I also vented up the chimney. The way I did it was to properly seal the other two fireplaces in the same chimney which were in the dining room and one of the bedrooms this was to avoid stinking out the house too bad. I did this by placing a piece of half inch plywood cut to the correct size and shape with a jigsaw then fastening it in place with lots of silicon sealant till I was satisfied there were no air gaps. I did the same in the cellar, but in the wood I used on the cellar fireplace I had cut a round hole and screwed a metal duct flange over the hole, I then connected the ducting to the flange and hey presto, I had a superb vent system. Being a big 5 bedroom place it had two chimneys, side-by-side, the fireplaces for the other chimney were in the sitting room and another bedroom, the flues of the two chimneys didn't merge as they do in some house, but they did terminate in the same stack, each had it's one chimney pot. I removed the gas fire from the sitting room and returned the fireplace to it's original state so I could have a real fire in the grate, the old grating and fireguard were dumped in the cellar, which was handy. I used to burn a lot of household waste on it - all my junkmail, newspapers, cardboard food packaging etc as well as wood, this was an awesome way of concealing the exhaust from my grow as the fumes and smoke from the fire completely masked any odour from the grow. The other good thing about it is I had no gas bill!
 
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todgerdelburro

Guest
Excellent additional info BH, older houses, especially Victorian can often have more complex chimney systems than the 1930s semi and these days there is a real shortage of smal boys you can send up there to investigate ;-)

I have done a few blockings up and must confess to being slightly more 'ghetto' about it ... I seem to remember a bundle of old rags wrapped around a ball of bubblewrap ...


One tip I forgot ... when viewing rental houses, subtly holding a wetted finger near a chimney can tell you if it still has the draw - she still pulls air through, telling you the chimney is still functional, some get capped off and are no use. Remember, you have asthma and your doctor told you to get somewhere to live with a good fresh air supply, not one of these modern hermetically sealed flats or Barrat homes style rabbit hutch house.
 
K

Kilo

Guest
just what the doctor ordered!!! thank and greatly apprecaited todger
 
K

Kilo

Guest
ez T excuse me for sounding dumb, but I'm confused about using the bag over the elbow bit ;) any further advice greatly appreciated.

thanks in advance
k
 
K

Kilo

Guest
just seen the image bro ..i totally get it now...thanks a million..

Now one more question hehe if ya dont mind

if my chimney backs onto a neighbor can i still vent in this fashion?
 
Duct
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todgerdelburro

Guest
Many thanks kilo for posting this my posting just hung ...


what i intended to write before this image is ...

I hope this makes it clearer, this method is designed to fit the duct in the chimney tight, silent, waterproof, as strongly as possible, at the right angle and in a way that it can be removed -when you need to take the garden down- easily and cleanly.
 
jadins_journey

jadins_journey

Supporter
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I had to give the plastic bag some thought myself Kilo, hell of an idea after you get your head around it.

Back last summer I had this very same thought go through my head, using the chimney to vent out the hot air. So I got a buddy to come over, no shit here guys, he's a professional chimney sweep!

This house is a 1920 - 30 3 story stone house and I grow in the basement. Turns out the chimney has 3 seperate flues, one going to each level of the house. Problem was is that there are 2 vent holes going into the flue that runs to the basement, one for the water heater and one for the furnace both being natural gas. I disconnected the furnace vent and piped the hot air from the lights into that vent.

I got a real quick lesson in physics, the back pressure of the air in the chimney forced the air to find the path of least resistance, which was the vent hole for the water heater so the majority of the hot air was blown right back into the basement from the second hole. A damper might work but probably not against the force of the exhaust fans so accumulation of CO in the basement is a possibility.

It's getting close to spring and I've been giving this topic some serious thought lately. BTW, my buddy did not see the grow room but left with a full mason jar of bud for his efforts.

jj
 
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todgerdelburro

Guest
Excellent point there jadins, water heaters can be very dangerous, check out your chimney venting arrangements or LEO may turn up to your place about somethng else much worse...




if my chimney backs onto a neighbor can i still vent in this fashion?

No, done it in several semis, once blagged a moment in neighbours bedroom [you know how it is...] and it was ********** silent :-) IMO wind rushing noise does not seem to travel like a vibration does.
 
K

Kilo

Guest
so thats me fooked then... location is a semi detached and we share the chimney ...i know they got vents rather than firers in the house....am i still fooked? even tho im above the bedroom and in the loft? what about if i extend the duct hehe
 
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todgerdelburro

Guest
if you own the whole house of this semi [as opposed to a maisonette with neighbours downstairs as well] then you will not find your chimney system is linked to next doors, so you can do it.
 
M

Matti1000

1
1
I like exhausting up chimneys for a number of reasons.

For security, it is the most obvious and innocent place for LEO to see a stream of hot air pumping out of your house, any other place and no matter how stealthy, it lights up the various Infa Red systems they often use.

Secondly, the smells, years before Carbon Filters became available I used to grow with no filter, Ozone, nothing, all because my vent went out 10M above street level. The odour does not [usually] drop, hunters use 6M high seats to wait for Deer and Foxes, both animals with excellent senses of smell.



How to do it .....

My experiences apply to English 3 bed 1930s brick built semis, but hopefully some or all will apply to most people.

To make a 6" hole to take ducting in your chimney, get a lump hammer and cold chisel and carefully start chipping away the mortar around 2 or 3 bricks. If

the building is in decent condition this should be no problem, I have failed to collapse any chimney stacks on myself to date but you never know....

Right, you now have 3 bricks out and a hole that will more than take a 6" duct. Get hold of a proper rigid steel 6" 90 degree bend duct, 'L' shaped pipe .....very cheap from ventialtion suppliers, plenty around on scrapheaps.

Take your 'L' shaped 90 degree bend and put it in a large HD rubbish sack so one end of the L pipe is at the bottom of the sack.

Tie some string tightly around this the end of the pipe, then cut out the 'drum' bit that was stretched tightly accross the bottom.

You now have a 6" 90 degree ventilation duct wearing a fetching black plastic skirt on it's outside, held on at the top by a 'string belt'.

Stick this into your new chimney hole with the 'string belt' end first and get it into position. This means, so the top fires your air directly up, the bottom, directly into your room.

Now the clever bit, get a can of expanding foam and stick the nozzle between the duct and the skirt, it fills up, keeping the foam away from the bare chimney

[a small detail, but just wait till you try to clean that crap off...]

You have your 90 degree ducting taking care of the entrance and turning upwards, solidly and silently fitted into your chimney in a way that you can easily dismantle and repair to original when you need to. Controlled by the foam trapped inside the plastic skirt, the top bit you can no longer see should still have a full unhindered exit, much harder if you just let the foam run wild.

Obviously, keep the old bricks handy & learn a little bit about cement & mixes, so you can make the repairs easily and invisible.


I hope this is clear, please ask if anything is not.
Is there any problems with condensation or damp doing this from the warm and moist air. Help appreciated. Thanks
 
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