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How to size a cooling system for your garden

  • Thread starter Thread starter Chillville
  • Start date Start date Aug 13, 2011
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How to size a cooling system for your garden

Chillville Aug 13, 2011 179 Replies 148,858 Views
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Growops

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#121
What would you recommend if I don't want to vent my lights ? I figured I was to re circulate the air within the rooms using iceboxes ? Or do I just need a bigger chiller like u stated before ?
 
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Growops

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#122
I'd use my normal 8inch hoods with correct CFM plus 2 iceboxes . Using the room air to cool keeping it 100% sealed . Hope that explains it better . Thx :)
 
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ttystikk

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#123
Take the glass out of your hoods. If you're going to spend the money to cool those lights, at least get all the light you're laughing for.

I hope your chiller can hack it, we will see!
 
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Growops

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#124
I thought I was to push air threw Both reflectors with 1 box before each bulb= 2 ice boxes . If I remove the glass how would the second light get air flow ? Sorry if I sound new
 
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Growops

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#125
Do u recommend I use the ice boxes hanging from the wall instead of in line with the reflectors?
 
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ttystikk

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#126
Growops said:
Do u recommend I use the ice boxes hanging from the wall instead of in line with the reflectors?
Click to expand...

I operate my Ice box units horizontally, with a fan blowing directly DOWN through each one. This directly sucks air from the guest part of the room and allows me to put a long piece of duct work on the unit to aim the air stream- and the water- down into a tub or bucket. This approach also minimizes the amount of floor space needed, and with a proper catchment beneath, the water captured can be directly poured right back into the RDWC.

Of course, it does not help understanding any when the picture somehow ends up upside down... to be clear, the muffin fan is on top, blowing air down through the Icebox and then down a piece of rigid duct.
 
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Growops

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#127
I see , from my understanding you vent your 8 lights seperate . Then you use iceboxes to cool the ambient room air ? And u run sealed with co2? I'm on a tight budget to start my room . I'm moving to a new location so I might have lots of questions . I've been reading fora few days now , I just read you can't use c02 with this type of cooling (swampcooling) in a sealed environment . I like this idea of water cooling even water cooling my dehuey would be great . When I watched the hydro innovation video the way the had it is the way I was gonna set mine up . I'm still gonna keep reading about this , maybe ill have to get a water cooled dehuey

Or I can take the glass out of my two hoods . Run iceboxes horizontal with duct pointing down to catch water sounds better . Is there any flaws with this ? Would an extra 8inch ice box help ? So 3 for 2kw bare I'm also building the room in the basement . Thanks for your advice
 
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ttystikk

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#128
Growops said:
I see , from my understanding you vent your 8 lights seperate . Then you use iceboxes to cool the ambient room air ? And u run sealed with co2? I'm on a tight budget to start my room . I'm moving to a new location so I might have lots of questions . I've been reading fora few days now , I just read you can't use c02 with this type of cooling (swampcooling) in a sealed environment . I like this idea of water cooling even water cooling my dehuey would be great . When I watched the hydro innovation video the way the had it is the way I was gonna set mine up . I'm still gonna keep reading about this , maybe ill have to get a water cooled dehuey

Or I can take the glass out of my two hoods . Run iceboxes horizontal with duct pointing down to catch water sounds better . Is there any flaws with this ? Would an extra 8inch ice box help ? So 3 for 2kw bare I'm also building the room in the basement . Thanks for your advice
Click to expand...

Yes, I run 'zones', each of which is 4 x 1kW HPS in sealed and externally vented hoods over a 12 site x 5 gallon bucket RDWC. Each zone is 8' x 8' or close to it. Each zone has two chilling 'towers', 8" muffin fans blowing down through 8" Icebox air-water heat exchangers, I wouldn't recommend the 6" for anything. One Icebox tower is plugged into my controller's temperature relay and the other is plugged into the humidity relay. During daylight with a good batch of plants, both will run most of the time, shedding heat from the room as well as dripping steadily.

Chilling and swamp cooling are very different, it is best to think of them as totally separate methods. I run CO² tanks- whoever told you not to run CO² in a sealed room was an idiot- it is necessary and desirable to do so, and it will work BETTER with chilling than AC due to its ability to maintain higher RH levels in your room.
 
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Growops

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#129
I agree Co2 is always good . Thx for clearing that up on the swamp cooling . I've been reading all day I think I'm gonna use 1 icebox per light . Then 1 icebox to cool the ambient room temps . Once I get started ill be updating here . I'm also selling my 4 burner co2 gen nd gonna try bottled co2 as the 4 burner is over kill for what I'm doing . Thx TT
 
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ttystikk

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#130
Growops said:
I agree Co2 is always good . Thx for clearing that up on the swamp cooling . I've been reading all day I think I'm gonna use 1 icebox per light . Then 1 icebox to cool the ambient room temps . Once I get started ill be updating here . I'm also selling my 4 burner co2 gen nd gonna try bottled co2 as the 4 burner is over kill for what I'm doing . Thx TT
Click to expand...

One 8" Icebox per 2kW of lighting is a good rule of thumb. Remember, it's not the number of Iceboxes that matters; it's how cold the water is running through them.

You'll need to make sure the chiller can hold 60 degrees F in your chiller res tank.
 
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Growops

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#131
ttystikk said:
One 8" Icebox per 2kW of lighting is a good rule of thumb. Remember, it's not the number of Iceboxes that matters; it's how cold the water is running through them.

You'll need to make sure the chiller can hold 60 degrees F in your chiller res tank.
Click to expand...
 
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Growops

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#132
I think you ment 1 box per 1000 . That's my plan . I'm in Canada . Cold winter warm summer but nothing like Cali for example . I would upgrade to a chill king by next Summer . I'm gonna try the Eco 1 1/2 hp with the 1/4 hp flowtec or similar metal housing pump . With a manifold with the smaller sized inlet hoses for even pressure .
 
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connoisseurde420

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#133
sounds like a god start
 
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ttystikk

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#134
Growops said:
I think you ment 1 box per 1000 . That's my plan . I'm in Canada . Cold winter warm summer but nothing like Cali for example . I would upgrade to a chill king by next Summer . I'm gonna try the Eco 1 1/2 hp with the 1/4 hp flowtec or similar metal housing pump . With a manifold with the smaller sized inlet hoses for even pressure .
Click to expand...

No, dammit, I explained my zone bloom setup above, with 4 kW of HPS, and two Iceboxes per zone. I do engineering; I can count. The question you need to be asking instead is, 'why is it that only a few of these things are necessary?', NOT 'hey, you got your math wrong'.

Capice?
 
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ttystikk

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#135
Growops said:
I think you ment 1 box per 1000 . That's my plan . I'm in Canada . Cold winter warm summer but nothing like Cali for example . I would upgrade to a chill king by next Summer . I'm gonna try the Eco 1 1/2 hp with the 1/4 hp flowtec or similar metal housing pump . With a manifold with the smaller sized inlet hoses for even pressure .
Click to expand...

You have the Canadian advantage, and some options to consider; option one is a direct water circuit to a radiator outside, complete with extraction fan. Since this could easily send the working fluid temperature well below freezing, it would need to be between 50-70% propylene glycol. You can also rig a similar exhaust around the chiller and use that heat to warm your house over the winter. If the entire system remains inside, there is no need to use propylene glycol. Each approach has its benefits and drawbacks.
 
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Growops

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#136
Ya
ttystikk said:
No, dammit, I explained my zone bloom setup above, with 4 kW of HPS, and two Iceboxes per zone. I do engineering; I can count. The question you need to be asking instead is, 'why is it that only a few of these things are necessary?', NOT 'hey, you got your math wrong'.

Capice?
Click to expand...
Ya ok sorry u took it wrong I wast saying your math was wrong . I was going by one ice per light originally . Thx for your help
 
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ttystikk

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#137
Growops said:
Ya
Ya ok sorry u took it wrong I wast saying your math was wrong . I was going by one ice per light originally . Thx for your help
Click to expand...

The whole key to cooling with water is the DIFFERENCE in temperature between the air in your growroom- not much warmer than 80- and the water passing through the Iceboxes, which ideally should be a bit below 60 degrees. Although the instructions talk about a ten degree difference being sufficient, I like to think of those degrees in Celsius, lol
 
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Growops

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#138
I hope it goes good . I'm making a list of what to get I might even get an ice box to place over my dehuey . I'm a bit new on the water cooling I'm sure I will be doing a lot of tinkering nd question asking
 
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ttystikk

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#139
Growops said:
I hope it goes good . I'm making a list of what to get I might even get an ice box to place over my dehuey . I'm a bit new on the water cooling I'm sure I will be doing a lot of tinkering nd question asking
Click to expand...

Do not run a separate dehuey with your chiller; they'll just work against each other and cost you money. The idea behind running your chiller water circuit at or below 60 F is that it drops the air below dewpoint, squeezing water out at the same time as it cools the air. It's very efficient.

The reason to have the muffin fan on top is because that's where the hot air in the room is, and because you want to push hot air through the cool exchanger, maximizing the temperature difference between the two.

You want a piece of rigid ductwork aiming the air and drippings into some kind of catchment basin. I have a prototype device that separates air and water, blows the air out the side in the direction you desire- and recycles the water directly back into your RDWC.
 
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Growops

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#140
ttystikk said:
Do not run a separate dehuey with your chiller; they'll just work against each other and cost you money. The idea behind running your chiller water circuit at or below 60 F is that it drops the air below dewpoint, squeezing water out at the same time as it cools the air. It's very efficient.

The reason to have the muffin fan on top is because that's where the hot air in the room is, and because you want to push hot air through the cool exchanger, maximizing the temperature difference between the two.

You want a piece of rigid ductwork aiming the air and drippings into some kind of catchment basin. I have a prototype device that separates air and water, blows the air out the side in the direction you desire- and recycles the water directly back into your RDWC.
Click to expand...
Does that apply to my duct exiting the row of 2 lights I was going to have a fan pushing threw two hoods with ice box after each bulb , Is that right or would i be pushing water drops on the next bulb .Or my 3rd ice box within the room with ridged duct to collect water ? Thanks for your expertise . Hydro innovations water cooled dehuey is 1200$ lol seems pricy
 
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Replies 179
Views 148,858
Started Aug 13, 2011
Latest post Aug 17, 2018
Starter Chillville
Forum Growroom Design & Setup

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