Growops said:

Does that apply to my duct exiting the row of 2 lights I was going to have a fan pushing threw two hoods with ice box after each bulb , Is that right or would i be pushing water drops on the next bulb .Or my 3rd ice box within the room with ridged duct to collect water ? Thanks for your expertise . Hydro innovations water cooled dehuey is 1200$ lol seems pricy

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Growops said:

This is a pump I found doing a quick search . I don't think this is what I want though . What do you think ?

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ttystikk said:

The guys at hydro innovations have been doing this for awhile now. Get in touch with them and I'm sure they'll have some good recommendations for you.

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Growops said:

Ok thanks

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johnnyrex said:

Hello chillville first I want to say that your write up on sizing your cooling system is very informative and impressive. On behalf of my self an I thinks many we thank you that I now have a reference table to go back to.

My question is I just purchase a 1 hp Aqua Quest Titanium chiller that has a 1.5" inlet and outlet. I can't seem to find the right fitting or should I say the appropriate fitting for the chiller. The unit only came with operating instruction.
I have attach some photo of the unit and side pic of the inlet outlet also 2 more photo of the caps with rubber seals. Any help would really appreciate thanks once again.

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• 1 TON 12,000 BTU

• Anti-corrosive heat exchanger for saltwater use

• PANASONIC compressor

• R22 refrigerant, prime choice in heavy duty chilling systems

• Cools up to 750 gallons

• Recommended flow rate 1000-1800GPH

• 1.5inch Inlet & Outlet

• Very reliable unit, and easy to install

• Micro-computerized control system is easy to operate

• Over Current and overheat auto-protection system

• 29"Lx23"Wx20"H

• 130LBS
  
  But then I received the email and he stated
  
  Hello John,
  As per your request Btu specs for Boyu Chiller model as follows:
  LN-2600 1HP Chiller 2600 Btu/hr
  LN-5800 2HP Chiller 5200 Btu/hr
  Thanking your for your interest in our Boyu products, is this right? Thanks

grow.proper said:

I have a question .
I'm almost done building my 6000 watt room. Dimensions are 11x12 and I have decided to buy a aura 24k btu mini split. My question is I have a dedicated 20 amp breaker on 240 for my ac but the guys at my local garden shop say I need 30 amps minimum but I'm confused because from the look of it mathematically 20 Amps Is GOOD enough. The ac is pumping out 8.8 amps so if it's on a 20 amp breaker is that not good enough ? Here is the link of the ac from a retailer. I'm getting mine for 1350

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connoisseurde420 said:

Are you barebulb? If not you seem to have a sound plan.

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Chillville said:

I wanted to start this thread to answer some basic questions about sizing cooling systems. Feel free to ask for help here for sizing your garden but first check out this interactive BTU calculator specifically for cooling gardens that I helped create. I personally tested everything 3x's and am very confident with my numbers. I did this by absorbing the heat in to water and then measuring the BTU's in the water. I put up some round numbers to make it easy, so these are not my exact findings.

http://www.hydroinnovations.com/faq/14032011-CoolingSystemChart R2.pdf

Basically this is how it breaks down...

Cooling BTU's needed before any equipment is added. This is for warm climates with 3 1/2" insulation, approx 40 BTU sq ft

1000 watt lamp inc radiant heat 4,000 BTU
1000 watt magnetic ballast 3,500 BTU
1000 watt digital ballast 2,500 BTU

600 watt lamp inc radiant heat 2,400 BTU
600 watt magnetic ballast 2,100 BTU
600 watt digital ballast 1,500 BTU

Co2
The amount of co2 varies on how well the room is sealed, the amount of plants consuming it, and the ppm setpoint. Typically generators have single burners inside that are rated at 3,000 BTU each. So a 4 burner gen produces approximately 12k BTU if ran for an entire hour. My best suggestion is to buy the gen before the cooling system and run it while monitoring the on and off cycle. Keep in mind that the initial run time will be longer than the maintenance run time. If you monitor for one hour and you know your generator size you can calculate your BTU's. Make sure that if you are ventilating your lights or your room that you do this while testing the BTU of the generator. You can run this test over 30 mins, just double your results. Keep in mind that plants consume it as well and this will raise your BTU's....how much depends on your plant size...I would figure at least 20% more than your BTU's test results to be safe. Just for an example I have a well sealed 12' x 24' flower room with 12 very large plants (3' wide 5-6' tall each) and my 12k BTU generator runs for about 15 mins an hour, so about 4k BTU per hour. Although not as accurate as a field test here is a co2 calculator that gives you an idea of initial run time for a particular room size. BTW 15 cubic feet of co2 equals 12k BTU.



Dehumidification
This is even trickier to calculate. BTU's created of course are based on run time. It's effected by outdoor humidity levels, how well the room is sealed, what growing system you are using (soil is highest IME), amount of plant material, and room temperature (the warmer the room the more the plants transpire), cooling system used, and humidity setpoint. Far to many variables for me to make a solid suggestion on BTU's. But to help size them I will tell you that a 70 pint dehu produces about 2k BTU per hour. If you think that you need a 70pint I would figure worst case scenario and add 2k BTU to your total. I use a 70 pint dehu for my garden (12' x 24') and it runs 50-70% of time depending on my plant cycle, but its my only form of dehumidification. With a standard a/c you will get some dehumidification out of it making the dehu run time less.

Ventilating lights
This varies depending on temp of the air being used and the amount of airflow (CFM). I've never cooled lights using outside air because in my location the air is too hot to use so I don't have any suggestions for sizing for this. I can tell you without a doubt if the air used to cool the lights is above the room temp is far less effective, in fact it can heat your room. Reflectors have about 8 sq ft of metal and 4 sq ft of glass and along with all the ducting they become heaters. Lets say your room is 80 degrees and the air you are using to cool the lights is 90 degrees. After the air flows through the reflector(s) its heated up well beyond this. All of the reflectors and ducting heats up to this temp and radiates heat in to the room. Something else to consider is that HID lighting produces radiation that even if using ice cold air radiation still passes out of the reflector. A great example is to hold your hand 1/4" away from the metal on the top of the reflector near the bulb and you can actually feel the radiant heat. This is approximately 500 BTU per hour per 1000 watt. A simple fix for this is to use Reflector Heat Shields.They will block 99% of the radiant heat on anything they cover and are a must for air cooling IMO. The radiant barrier fabric traps more heat in the reflectors allowing it to be removed with the forced air. For anyone using above room temp air to cool their lights I would insist they use these covers, I guarantee they will make a significant difference.

Lastly I always design my cooling systems 10-20% over the BTU's needed so that the cooling equipment can cycle on and off properly. These figures above have some cushion built in to them so 10% is probably fine.

If you need help sizing beyond this or have any other questions feel free to ask :)

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Swerv said:

So I live in a Pacific Northwest coastal climate where rh generally is in the 60-80% and temps are generally mild summers average around 60-70 degrees winters are 30-55 degrees give or take. I have a north facing garage with two rooms one is 8x16 feet with 7 600w lights (flowering 12hr) the other is 10x10 feet with 4 600w lights (veg 18hr). Both rooms have 9 foot ceilings. My question is how big of a mini would I need to cool both zones ? Can I get a unit that can control both rooms? I've seen the multi room mini's online, is this a feasible option? Also the ballests would also be in the rooms that I'm trying to cool. I'd like to go the sealed rout and stop venting my hoods. Any insight is greatly appreciated. Thanks !! I also posted this question in the other a/c thread.

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grow.proper said:

It's going to be a sealed room besides me venting out the lights with air from outside my built room. I just want to make sure my ac will handle the watts. Here in southern California it gets hot. Looking to upgrade to 8000 watts after I finish this run too. What reviews are there on the aura mini split ?

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