How to water properly.????

[DiverDown]

completely agree and you called it,when they add,i use it in my medicine grows on ocassions,from seed to harvest nothing but teas,there is a misconception of all soils,folk just wont to grow and stuff that work for me dont you thing,life,all learning curve,you probally already know all bag soils are a peat base and fillers added,you wouldnt know this from reading the bag,truth comes in with texture testing,all that stays above the water line that represent organic matter is all peat,nothing at all wrong with it,perlite,vermiculite,wood chips,and just a tad that cant even register as organic matter,i visit other sites and hear and see same thing all the time and wondered if you could show me,im serious no one ever has,you called it all the way,you can even take your pro-mix and do a jar texture test,it will be the same,what floats isnt what stays down is soil-silt,folk talk about the eco system a thrash peat moss,why? a plant is a plant and will decompose and become silt-soil it was put here for us to figure out and can and will be planted,ive used pro-mix also,it just takes too long to get to silt,i got hands full with other gardens,but no doubt a silt in long run,were im at i cant be water every other day and such,to much at a time kills me,thats why i elect to use amended soil,pro-mix is amended also with lime right same with everything it up to the gardner to know when and how,just sayin

I always make my own compost and would have preferred that over bagged soil. But getting started this is what I was told to do.

 

[Wolfe]

I need to set up a self watering system for someone else to take of them while I am away having spinal surgery. Then when I return I won't be able to bend down or get on the ground. The milk jugs is the only thing I can think of. What would you do?

This is what I do and I’ve done it on a small scale also. Pump size depending on the plant. Timer on the pump and timer on the water going into the can. My indoor set up is the same thing. And I even built one for clones, cut them, turned it on as set the timers( order a seconds timer), and I went on vacation. Came back to fully rooted clones and lots growth. I’ve left with three of these things running at the same time and they all worked. Never looked back after going this route. Makes things so easy and why I choose super soils and water only. Hell a cave man can add water to a res in a bucket of your gone or just get a bigger bucket ;)

 

[oldskol4evr]

used FF for years before I started my own mixes. I agree with @oldskol4evr everyone says FF is too hot and this and that but years in it and even seedlings started in it and never an issue. I used to germ my beans direct into FF without germin the old skool way and never an issue. Personally I think the ole skool way of germin in paper towels and such are when we can have problems. When you remove the seeds from the paper towels you tear the delicate root hairs that imbed in the paper towels and that can cause problems. So I pop them right in the soil from day one. I have also noticed doing it this way seems to allow for better and stronger root development. I aint never seen any elves in the forest pulling up sprouts from paper towels and stickin em in the ground. Best way is always going to be the way it happens naturally in the real world

right on brother,ive seen elves in the woods before hahahah the days when there was no weed,lots of elves and stuff hahahahh

 

[Wolfe]

ive never have had the knats,must just be were you live,if them knat can live in a bag of soil around here,patent them bitchs hahaah,that kinda of the point i was getting at,folk be saying hot this and that,then down the line mention how we breeders are disrupting the plants threw cross breeding and stuff that give hermies,i dont believe that,i have grown seeds from friends that were straight up hermies,and didnt have that issue,envoriment ,technic,methods are all difrent,guess it no how i presume,roots organic is the only one i havent tried but here same thing,to hot,knats,with fence wide open those things exsist if you make it happen in my opinion,like i said in another post,dont blame a soil manufacture if you havent tested it with soil health testing,how do you know what the problem is if you have no clue what you have if you dig,i test every bag i buy,in my own opinion miricle grow is the so called hottest,no shit,fox and kellogs and other no name brands all come out of bag with very very high N the P&k is right were it needs to be,the high N is fine for vegging plants so no big deal,MG is off the charts and i think it is from the urea used,the time release stuff,ive grown with it and great gardens only because they get nothing but water and or shit tea,so again comes down to methods of your gardening skills,leaves dont lie and as you mentioned if it drys and you watch your plants,the next time you know when to water just before it happens next time
[/QUOTE
Apparently I’m not the only one who’s had that problem. https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/m...il-so-you-dont-get-gnats-dirt-bugs-etc.70689/

 

[Jimster]

ive never have had the knats,must just be were you live,if them knat can live in a bag of soil around here,patent them bitchs hahaah,that kinda of the point i was getting at,folk be say, not because it is a bad producting hot this and that,then down the line mention how we breeders are disrupting the plants threw cross breeding and stuff that give hermies,i dont believe that,i have grown seeds from friends that were straight up hermies,and didnt have that issue,envoriment ,technic,methods are all difrent,guess it no how i presume,roots organic is the only one i havent tried but here same thing,to hot,knats,with fence wide open those things exsist if you make it happen in my opinion,like i said in another post,dont blame a soil manufacture if you havent tested it with soil health testing,how do you know what the problem is if you have no clue what you have if you dig,i test every bag i buy,in my own opinion miricle grow is the so called hottest,no shit,fox and kellogs and other no name brands all come out of bag with very very high N the P&k is right were it needs to be,the high N is fine for vegging plants so no big deal,MG is off the charts and i think it is from the urea used,the time release stuff,ive grown with it and great gardens only because they get nothing but water and or shit tea,so again comes down to methods of your gardening skills,leaves dont lie and as you mentioned if it drys and you watch your plants,the next time you know when to water just before it happens next time

When I made my opinions regarding Fox Farms being too hot, I mentioned that because for the novice grower often has problems with it. With an experienced grower it can be great but for new growers who like to pour the gravy on top of an all-you-can-eat buffet, it can be a recipe for heartburn. Undesirable traits can easily be bred into the genetics... look at the current state of growing and the shape and type of plants. For the most part, the stuff being grown today bears little resemblance to the original breeds. It's like tomatoes. The public loves it's big, juicy, and mostly tasteless tomatoes because that is the way they were bred. Thicker skins to resist bruising, faster production, self pollinating... all this stuff is new. The same is going to happen to Cannabis, sooner or later.
These are just my opinions and observations. It hasn't taken over the world yet, but history repeats itself. There used to be a zillion strains of Bananas...now there is 1 main one that is under siege by a fungus. I have never personally had any hermie plants, or known anyone that has the problem, although that doesn't mean that it isn't possible. I hear breders themselves saying about certain descendants of some strains that are prone to herms, but the strain is popular and is being tried to breed it out. The trait is still there, however, buried somewhere in the genetics. Everyone has their opinions and ways of looking a things. I do my best to try to provide help and assistance when I can... which is what is great about this site. Everyone helps out even if we have different methods and preferences. If I have offended anyone with my rants, please let me know. I certainly don't intend to hurt or diss anyone. Sometimes I have a strange way of wording things that can be misunderstood.

 

[DiverDown]

This is what I do and I’ve done it on a small scale also. Pump size depending on the plant. Timer on the pump and timer on the water going into the can. My indoor set up is the same thing. And I even built one for clones, cut them, turned it on as set the timers( order a seconds timer), and I went on vacation. Came back to fully rooted clones and lots growth. I’ve left with three of these things running at the same time and they all worked. Never looked back after going this route. Makes things so easy and why I choose super soils and water only. Hell a cave man can add water to a res in a bucket of your gone or just get a bigger bucket ;)

This set up doesn't make sense without seeing the portion with the plant. All I see is the timer sending water to a bucket. Where are the plants?

 

[DiverDown]

by the way those growing indoors,same process with gravity feed ,5 gal bucket with a hole drilled into bottom of bucket,1/4 in air tube from fish tank,lay it next to stalk and let er go gravity does the work,come back and vacum out your drip trays

This sounds like a solution!!!!!! You may have saved the day!

 

[DiverDown]

Home Depot sells drip-irrigation stuff. There is a PVC fitting which goes from hose-bib to 3/4" slip fitting. (<<link) From there you could use PVC and drip-irrigation adapters to get down to the 1/8" drip tubing. Someone at Home Depot should be able to help you get from the hose bib to the drip outlets (the pieces to put it together in between. There are so many pieces it can be overwhelming to figure out. But, I guarantee that you can get from hose bib to 3/4" PVC pipe, down to barb fitting for the drip tube. You're just making a hose-end "manifold" for the drip tubes.).

I have used the pvc piping when I had a koi pond for years. I have had to get plenty of fittings. BUT... I need to see the set up. Your link doesn't show that.

 

[oldskol4evr]

When I made my opinions regarding Fox Farms being too hot, I mentioned that because for the novice grower often has problems with it. With an experienced grower it can be great but for new growers who like to pour the gravy on top of an all-you-can-eat buffet, it can be a recipe for heartburn. Undesirable traits can easily be bred into the genetics... look at the current state of growing and the shape and type of plants. For the most part, the stuff being grown today bears little resemblance to the original breeds. It's like tomatoes. The public loves it's big, juicy, and mostly tasteless tomatoes because that is the way they were bred. Thicker skins to resist bruising, faster production, self pollinating... all this stuff is new. The same is going to happen to Cannabis, sooner or later.
These are just my opinions and observations. It hasn't taken over the world yet, but history repeats itself. There used to be a zillion strains of Bananas...now there is 1 main one that is under siege by a fungus. I have never personally had any hermie plants, or known anyone that has the problem, although that doesn't mean that it isn't possible. I hear breders themselves saying about certain descendants of some strains that are prone to herms, but the strain is popular and is being tried to breed it out. The trait is still there, however, buried somewhere in the genetics. Everyone has their opinions and ways of looking a things. I do my best to try to provide help and assistance when I can... which is what is great about this site. Everyone helps out even if we have different methods and preferences. If I have offended anyone with my rants, please let me know. I certainly don't intend to hurt or diss anyone. Sometimes I have a strange way of wording things that can be misunderstood.

you make a real good point there bro,the breeders are doing this,they arent working the lines at all,i dont think there really is a landrace anymore ,at least from or hay day,im convinced and probally wrong as hell ,but i believe all the sour and bad hermi stuff started right about the time that folk started using pure silver to pollinate,never done it never will,i think the actual pollinating with qtips and dust in general some how has a effect also,its not natuaral way of pollination,again just my opinion,i got 3 strains ive made 2 have never been released to not even friends as of yet,i havent had time or the place to really work them,i have grown them 3 times and there looking like what i call my standards,im looking for any damn one can grow them type strains,hell all give a buzz but i lean more to a speedy high and numbing relife of sore bodies hahahah,i think that folk breed just to rush out and get to the band wagon of money for seeds ,hell look how much the damn things has gone up in last 10 yrs,crazy high,no work at all in the lines,even when you get testers the only time you hear from them is when they have problems and again that goes back to the over under water and ferts,some folk just cant leave them alone,i dont believe there is such a bad thing in mediums at all,comes down to the nut that pouring in the gravy just like you said,im not defending any bag soil or soil made at all ,ive used all but the hydro and aqua man is trying to convince me too hahaahh,i do have a 33 gal trash can outside with a watermelon plant going in it,not expecting much but had to know if you dig,discovery just like chris hahaah,i will bash the shit out of the soil i make cause i made it and not happy with it,might fit the bill for veggie on the table,but im looking at more of handling my envoirment with extreme heats,i believe that can be achieved look at places in the desert,in iraq the only tree which was a scraggly ole bush,but it was my tree,if that tree could live in the desert there water there you know,i wont a envoriment like that and plants to stand up in it,no you got me all wrong ,im not defending any of them ,from 10 or more years i been hearing same as you about it,i would just like visual proof of it one day all i was saying,fox and many others sell tons of soil,soil is living ,dirt is not,there is no way they good incorparate dirt into there mix,if they could there would be giant holes on both east and west coast were they make it,hahahah,hell maybe that were the pacific and alantic ocean come from ,hahah i dont know ,all of them are made from peat moss base,i really see no way at all that they could sterilize every bag of soil were it doesnt have bugs,even if they could when it goes to the seller it is sit outside,think about that ,fresh mix soil with all kind of attractants,ya buddy knats,but what puzzles me most is the lack of ants in the bags,why?,im thinking chemical structures,if that could be replicated you got a whole card to use for great wealth hahaah

 

[az2000]

I have used the pvc piping when I had a koi pond for years. I have had to get plenty of fittings. BUT... I need to see the set up. Your link doesn't show that.

It's pretty simple. Use the hose-end timer attached to the spigot. Then the bib-to-PVC (3/4") attached to the time. From that, you just use a bushing or adapter (maybe 3-4 of them) to get own to the 1/2" poly irrigation tubing. That's the main feeder line. You fold over the end to "cap" it. (They sell a thing that holds the fold tight.). Run that 1/2" tubing out to the vicinity of your plants. Then you attach 1/4" micro tubing from that feeder line, terminating each one at a plant's container (with an "emitter" on the end). The attachment of 1/4" micro tubing to the 1/2" feeder tube is made with a barbed fitting that inserts into the side of the 1/2" tube. It's self-sealing.

The person working in the Home Depot plumbing area will set you up in 15 minutes. There are drip-irrigation videos on YouTube. The only mystery in my mind is going from 3/4" PVC pipe (the bib adapter) to 1/2" poly tubing. I could go to the hardware store, find the parts and take pictures for you. I *know* the parts exist. This is a common thing people do. I'm just not sure which parts go together to get from a 3/4" PVC slip fitting to a 1/2" tube. (There should probably be a flow restrictor in that too. If one of the drip pieces came apart, the flow restrictor would cause the leak to be a gentle stream. Not a powerful jet at full pressure.).

The hanging jugs may be easier & cheaper. But, the official drip system isn't complicated. Especially once you you get past the timer, pressure regulator, adapter to 1/2" mainline. That part's the confusing part because you're going from different threads (hose bib isn't pipe thread. PVC typically deals in pipe-thread adaptors. And, the 1/2" poly tube deals in compression fittings. So, you have to work with a few things to get "from here to there". But, the employee at the hardware store knows how to do that.

 

[DiverDown]

It's pretty simple. Use the hose-end timer attached to the spigot. Then the bib-to-PVC (3/4") attached to the time. From that, you just use a bushing or adapter (maybe 3-4 of them) to get own to the 1/2" poly irrigation tubing. That's the main feeder line. You fold over the end to "cap" it. (They sell a thing that holds the fold tight.). Run that 1/2" tubing out to the vicinity of your plants. Then you attach 1/4" micro tubing from that feeder line, terminating each one at a plant's container (with an "emitter" on the end). The attachment of 1/4" micro tubing to the 1/2" feeder tube is made with a barbed fitting that inserts into the side of the 1/2" tube. It's self-sealing.

The person working in the Home Depot plumbing area will set you up in 15 minutes. There are drip-irrigation videos on YouTube. The only mystery in my mind is going from 3/4" PVC pipe (the bib adapter) to 1/2" poly tubing. I could go to the hardware store, find the parts and take pictures for you. I *know* the parts exist. This is a common thing people do. I'm just not sure which parts go together to get from a 3/4" PVC slip fitting to a 1/2" tube. (There should probably be a flow restrictor in that too. If one of the drip pieces came apart, the flow restrictor would cause the leak to be a gentle stream. Not a powerful jet at full pressure.).

The hanging jugs may be easier & cheaper. But, the official drip system isn't complicated. Especially once you you get past the timer, pressure regulator, adapter to 1/2" mainline. That part's the confusing part because you're going from different threads (hose bib isn't pipe thread. PVC typically deals in pipe-thread adaptors. And, the 1/2" poly tube deals in compression fittings. So, you have to work with a few things to get "from here to there". But, the employee at the hardware store knows how to do that.

Well....... I understand basically... not sure of the changing sizes of tubing and what way to connect them to the main line, I will check out the you tube videos. I do have plenty of garden hoses, I could set each hose up to it's own plant, on the timer..... but those are too long. In the mean time, I was thinking of using a 5 gallon bucket with a fish tank hose, very simple. Already have those. Trying to save some money. Not sure if I will be doing this next year, have to see how the plants turn out before putting an elaborate system in place.

 

[az2000]

The nice thing about the real drip system is that it's regulated to some extent. If you ran a hose to each container, it wouldn't be clear how much water a plant is getting. With real drip irrigation, you can put a 1gph emiter on the end of the microtube going to a container. Then, run 4 micro tubes off that emiter, staking each one down around the container's surface (for even application). Or, higher volume emiters. Or, there's "bubblers" with even more volume (a 10-minute flood, which would be more like using hoses. But, a bit more regulated.). You end up with a box of emitters, bubblers, etc. You can easily control the amount of water plants get (more easily than cobbling together milk jugs and aquarium tubing. Although, there's nothing wrong with that either. Less expensive. It can be fun DIYing things more like that. But, the real drip parts aren't that expensive.).

 

[oldskol4evr]

Well....... I understand basically... not sure of the changing sizes of tubing and what way to connect them to the main line, I will check out the you tube videos. I do have plenty of garden hoses, I could set each hose up to it's own plant, on the timer..... but those are too long. In the mean time, I was thinking of using a 5 gallon bucket with a fish tank hose, very simple. Already have those. Trying to save some money. Not sure if I will be doing this next year, have to see how the plants turn out before putting an elaborate system in place.

im as cheap as they come and recycle every thing,if i throw it away it cant be fixed hahaah,dont even wont to hear the not sure if next year thing,lets just say if you sit around baby that back it will hurt worse,just as soon as you can hurt yourself doing things,pain is all in the mind friend,dont let it take your mind challenge the bitch,yes hurt like hell for a hour or so fight it laugh at it,afterwards and you not even know it till your done you beat the bitch feel me,i still say dont do it,too many sad songs from those that have,it takes me a few hours to get going but i do and every time i see someone slumped over i feel i made right choice,just to make a point on these so called operations,when i refused surgery the state and gov quit paying the doc bills,now im no genius but doesnt that say uncle and state are in the same pocket of big pharms,just saying hope you feel better,going on 10 yrs now 4 lower disc,Si jiont both knees and left rotator cup and i still walk standing straight up smiling my ass off at fools wondering why im parked in handicap parking,even had one dude say you dont look handicap,told him if he wasnt a ugly fucker and built like a man i would change bodies in a heart beat,he got pissed and took a step towards me,i replied body busted finger still works like a charm wont some,he left hahahh

 

[DiverDown]

im as cheap as they come and recycle every thing,if i throw it away it cant be fixed hahaah,dont even wont to hear the not sure if next year thing,lets just say if you sit around baby that back it will hurt worse,just as soon as you can hurt yourself doing things,pain is all in the mind friend,dont let it take your mind challenge the bitch,yes hurt like hell for a hour or so fight it laugh at it,afterwards and you not even know it till your done you beat the bitch feel me,i still say dont do it,too many sad songs from those that have,it takes me a few hours to get going but i do and every time i see someone slumped over i feel i made right choice,just to make a point on these so called operations,when i refused surgery the state and gov quit paying the doc bills,now im no genius but doesnt that say uncle and state are in the same pocket of big pharms,just saying hope you feel better,going on 10 yrs now 4 lower disc,Si jiont both knees and left rotator cup and i still walk standing straight up smiling my ass off at fools wondering why im parked in handicap parking,even had one dude say you dont look handicap,told him if he wasnt a ugly fucker and built like a man i would change bodies in a heart beat,he got pissed and took a step towards me,i replied body busted finger still works like a charm wont some,he left hahahh

I don't sit around, which is why I hurt so.... my discs were crushed. Hopefully the last surgery is a coming. Don't want it, but can't live if I can't move......

 

[DiverDown]

The nice thing about the real drip system is that it's regulated to some extent. If you ran a hose to each container, it wouldn't be clear how much water a plant is getting. With real drip irrigation, you can put a 1gph emiter on the end of the microtube going to a container. Then, run 4 micro tubes off that emiter, staking each one down around the container's surface (for even application). Or, higher volume emiters. Or, there's "bubblers" with even more volume (a 10-minute flood, which would be more like using hoses. But, a bit more regulated.). You end up with a box of emitters, bubblers, etc. You can easily control the amount of water plants get (more easily than cobbling together milk jugs and aquarium tubing. Although, there's nothing wrong with that either. Less expensive. It can be fun DIYing things more like that. But, the real drip parts aren't that expensive.).

I don't have the time to figure it all out. I think I am going to use a 5 gallon bucket for each plant and use the tank tubing for now. If I could see a picture of the set up, it would help.

 

[Rikismom420]

get you some surfactants. FF and most soils can and will form channels where the water will flow straight down little channels and the water wont spread out evenly thruot the pot.

Check this link for more info. It really does work. https://plantcaretoday.com/wetting-agents.html

Good read...never though of using a surfactant in soil....interesting .thx

 

[DiverDown]

Good read...never though of using a surfactant in soil....interesting .thx

I use soap with my natural home made bug killers. Soap makes it stick. Or mineral oil.

 

[MIMedGrower]

used FF for years before I started my own mixes. I agree with @oldskol4evr everyone says FF is too hot and this and that but years in it and even seedlings started in it and never an issue. I used to germ my beans direct into FF without germin the old skool way and never an issue. Personally I think the ole skool way of germin in paper towels and such are when we can have problems. When you remove the seeds from the paper towels you tear the delicate root hairs that imbed in the paper towels and that can cause problems. So I pop them right in the soil from day one. I have also noticed doing it this way seems to allow for better and stronger root development. I aint never seen any elves in the forest pulling up sprouts from paper towels and stickin em in the ground. Best way is always going to be the way it happens naturally in the real world

I use a moist coffee filter. The roots do not stick to them. And placing the seed tap root up so it has a shorter path for the root before it turns down and helps shed the shell as it is flipped up through the soil.

Then after a few days of stretch burying the stem ip to a 1/4” from the cots grows even more rootsso they fill almost to the top of the cup.

I have gotten noticibly better results this way than sprouting the seed in the soil directly. And i know if the seed is viable before planting.

Hope that made sense. Its just my experience.

 

[MIMedGrower]

get you some surfactants. FF and most soils can and will form channels where the water will flow straight down little channels and the water wont spread out evenly thruot the pot.

Check this link for more info. It really does work. https://plantcaretoday.com/wetting-agents.html

Can also just scratch up the surface of the soil to help water penetrate evenly or use a drop of dish soap in the water as a surfactant.

 

[DiverDown]

Can also just scratch up the surface of the soil to help water penetrate evenly or use a drop of dish soap in the water as a surfactant.

I use a moist coffee filter. The roots do not stick to them. And placing the seed tap root up so it has a shorter path for the root before it turns down and helps shed the shell as it is flipped up through the soil.

Then after a few days of stretch burying the stem ip to a 1/4” from the cots grows even more rootsso they fill almost to the top of the cup.

I have gotten noticibly better results this way than sprouting the seed in the soil directly. And i know if the seed is viable before planting.

Hope that made sense. Its just my experience.

Even if using the paper towels, it doesn't make any difference if the paper towel sticks to the seed, it disintegrates quickly and adds a bit of moisture.