How will 12/12 effect my autoflower.

  • Thread starter DevinA95
  • Start date
  • Tagged users None
DevinA95

DevinA95

312
63
How will 1212 effect my autoflower

I need help please. On the left I have a mystery autoflower that I'm hoping is in her final weeks. In the middle I have a 3-4 week old northern lights fem photoperiod that I planned on putting outside with 5 others but only 1 sprouted so I decided it's not much worth the effort of putting out by itself. On the right I have a 5 day old chemdog auto. I was planning on starting another auto once the mystery is finished but also was wondering how it would effect the chemdog auto if I was to transplant the photo fem to a 3 gallon and veg her out on 20-4 light schedule and then flip to 12/12? I'm fully prepared to ditch the photoperiod and start another auto but wanted to give her a chance at life. I just need to know which would be more beneficial. Thanks in advance. I know you all can help.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

Staff
Supporter
25,784
638
View attachment 1256167
I need help please. On the left I have a mystery autoflower that I'm hoping is in her final weeks. In the middle I have a 3-4 week old northern lights fem photoperiod that I planned on putting outside with 5 others but only 1 sprouted so I decided it's not much worth the effort of putting out by itself. On the right I have a 5 day old chemdog auto. I was planning on starting another auto once the mystery is finished but also was wondering how it would effect the chemdog auto if I was to transplant the photo fem to a 3 gallon and veg her out on 20-4 light schedule and then flip to 12/12? I'm fully prepared to ditch the photoperiod and start another auto but wanted to give her a chance at life. I just need to know which would be more beneficial. Thanks in advance. I know you all can help.
It will simply get less exposure time and therefore need a higher intensity.

See the difference between autos and photoperiods is simply the requirement of a long enough dark period to initiate and maintain flowering for a photoperiod. Where an auto does not require a 12/12 cycle to initiate or maintain flower

The light requirements are similar in terms of DLI (daily light integral) which is a calculation of intensity and duration of exposure.

So if you go 12/12 you need to increase the intensity to make uo for the lower duration if exposure. Which you do for photoperiods anyhow.

So long story short an autoflower can get away with half the light intensity if you run 24/0 than a photoperiod. If you run an auto 12/12 the just need more intensity like photoperiods do
 
DevinA95

DevinA95

312
63
It will simply get less exposure time and therefore need a higher intensity.

See the difference between autos and photoperiods is simply the requirement of a long enough dark period to initiate and maintain flowering for a photoperiod. Where an auto does not require a 12/12 cycle to initiate or maintain flower

The light requirements are similar in terms of DLI (daily light integral) which is a calculation of intensity and duration of exposure.

So if you go 12/12 you need to increase the intensity to make uo for the lower duration if exposure. Which you do for photoperiods anyhow.

So long story short an autoflower can get away with half the light intensity if you run 24/0 than a photoperiod. If you run an auto 12/12 the just need more intensity like photoperiods do
Thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately my light is maxed out now and the ppfd at my plants level was 535. I don't think thats very good but I may be wrong. I'll check the DLI meter when i get home.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

Staff
Supporter
25,784
638
Thanks for the feedback. Unfortunately my light is maxed out now and the ppfd at my plants level was 535. I don't think thats very good but I may be wrong. I'll check the DLI meter when i get home.
600-900 is acceptable for flower. Your not far off and yield should be decent
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

Staff
Supporter
25,784
638
You can flower a photo under as little as 14/10 but to be safe go 13/11 and that will give an extra hr of light to help compensate for a slightly lower than optimal intensity
 
DevinA95

DevinA95

312
63
600-900 is acceptable for flower. Your not far off and yield should be decent
That's reassuring. Even if yield is a little bit decent then I'll be happy. I only planned on using photos for outdoors only so I'll accept what I can get as long as it's worth while with what I have.
 
DevinA95

DevinA95

312
63
You can flower a photo under as little as 14/10 but to be safe go 13/11 and that will give an extra hr of light to help compensate for a slightly lower than optimal intensity
So 13/11 should be fine to flower the photo all the way through? It wouldn't adjust and reveg?
 
DevinA95

DevinA95

312
63
Yup should be fine
Thanks a bunch!. I wasn't sure on what to do and I really didn't want to ditch the northern lights. I'll probably transplant her this evening. The picture I posted is from 3 days ago ago and I believe I'll be harvesting the auto today.
 
Mechman60

Mechman60

101
43
View attachment 1256167
I need help please. On the left I have a mystery autoflower that I'm hoping is in her final weeks. In the middle I have a 3-4 week old northern lights fem photoperiod that I planned on putting outside with 5 others but only 1 sprouted so I decided it's not much worth the effort of putting out by itself. On the right I have a 5 day old chemdog auto. I was planning on starting another auto once the mystery is finished but also was wondering how it would effect the chemdog auto if I was to transplant the photo fem to a 3 gallon and veg her out on 20-4 light schedule and then flip to 12/12? I'm fully prepared to ditch the photoperiod and start another auto but wanted to give her a chance at life. I just need to know which would be more beneficial. Thanks in advance. I know you all can help.
My autos are in with my photos 8 weeks on 12/12.
Doing great.
 
Top Bottom