How Would You Mix These Soil Components For Organic Soil.

[Canalchemist]

There are a limited amount of soil components available, and so many recipes out there that either have all these components and include ones that aren't on the list etc. here is a list and a description of smell and consistency cause there is no descriptions on the packages.

70 liters of coco coir
10 liters of perlite
40 liters of steer/cattle manure
10 liters of worm castings
3 kg Natural Dolomite lime pelletized
Organic Bone meal 4-10-0 granular
Organic Bone Meal 6-9-0 powdery stinky
Blood meal 12-0-0 powdery stinky
4.5 lbs All Purpose organic fertilizer 4-4-4 With Canola, cotton seedmeal feather and blood meal bone meal rock phosphate langbeinite kelp meal and green sand.
Jobes organic fertilizer spikes all purpose 4-4-4
Jobes organic fertilizer spikes For roses and flowering shrubs 3-5-3

one could drown in all the soil mixes out there and have a few I think I would try but I would like to get some opinions if possible

Thanks in advance.

 

[Seamaiden]

With gloves. :p

I keed! First, I'd drop the perlite, but that's my personal preference. I prefer rice hulls.

How composted is the steer manure? It may be too hot to use in a potting mix.

I like a mix that's 25% worm casting, roughly, and if possible I'd trade out some of the coir for peat, and all of the steer manure for compost.

But! If that's all you have to work with, then I'd start with the 10L of castings and add... what, 30L of the coir to equal 25%? I'm AWFUL with math. Yes, that bad, because now I realize I'd have to reduce the amount of coir if we want to allow 'room' for the other things. Gah! Meh, fuck it, start with that amount, add in 20%-30% perlite, whatever that number actually is. I'd load up the mix with those dry ferts (the AP), but I am curious, do they give a mixing ratio for potting mixes, or perhaps an application ratio for beds? I'm having a hard time converting liters to a physical size in my mind, so I apologize for that, but with the dry ferts I'd go at the highest rates they suggest.

I'd toss in the blood and bone meal at suggested rates as well, mostly for the additional P and Ca. And then, if possible, find something for micronutrients, whether it's a product like Azomite or something like Sea-90 (which is probably better used in waterings/feeds than mixed in the soil) or rock dusts.

Oh! The DL... I'd start at a rate of about 1T/gal soil IF I were to use it at all. My own well water is very high in carbonates so I don't add carbonates to my soil mixes. A gallon is like, what... a little over 2L's? Sorry if this is confusing.

 

[Canalchemist]

Hey there SeaMaiden Thanks for your reply, that seems to make sense to me, don't worry about the math it is boggling for me to but I can do the math as I go, Very much appreciated, and the (AP) they recommend 2-3 Kg per square meter so I can figure the math on that too, the manure is composted already but when I make the mix I am going to ad my own home made essential microbes and let it sit for a month and see how it goes.

Also forgot I will be adding some biochar as well.

Thanks again, you are a sweety when it comes to helping others, and a wealth of knowledge and experience.

 

[WalterWhiteFire]

I partially agree with @Seamaiden. Drop the perlite and the manure. Find some good compost.

Here's my preferred base composition: 60% coco , 20% compost 15% EWC, 5% char/rice hulls.

Some ingredients I wouldn't make super soil with out: oyster shell meal, Neem/ karaja seed meal, kelp meal, langbenite.

My mixes are all no cook and on the weaker side. Then I brew custom tailored teas weekly to give them a spike of nutrients I want them to uptake immediately.

 

[Canalchemist]

I do not have any compost atm, the manure is composted already, can this be substituted for compost?

 

[Canalchemist]

So a math question when it says in the package so much per square meter or 10 square feet are they assuming a certain depth?

 

[Seamaiden]

No, no depth, just coverage.

 

[Canalchemist]

Thanks SM, I actually pulled out a few different products that had the same NPK in similar concentrations and ingredient, did the math and the ratios reproduced the same weight per volume, as it did for the area of soil, had to work it out a few times just to be sure I had it down, and then a few more times because I couldn't believe it actually worked out, then a couple more times because I had a hard time believing I actually did the math right.

 

[Seamaiden]

Sounds like you took it a lot further than I would have! I just researched how to convert from acreage applications. Good stuff!

 

[Canalchemist]

Thanks OCPD

Allws me to take things way to far and not feel bad about it ;)

 

[SeaF0ur]

With gloves. :p

I keed! First, I'd drop the perlite, but that's my personal preference. I prefer rice hulls.

^^ Perlite is something that I strongly dislike and it never stays where you put it LOL

I do not have any compost atm, the manure is composted already, can this be substituted for compost?

Yes

Albreicht ratios are not that important, provided that your cation exchange capacity is high enough and there is enough of each element there. what is more important is the calcium / magnesium ratio which will directly bind soil... Either add a calcium source, or change from dolomite lime to calcitic lime... Excess Magnesium can cause you problems because it can interfere with the uptake of other, needed nutrients resulting in plants in stress that are more attractive to insects.
Balance is what is needed.

A & L GREAT LAKES LABORATORIES
Calcitic or Dolomitic Limestone? (pdf)

Choosing Between Liming Materials - Soil Science at UW-Madison

 

[Canalchemist]

Thanks for the links very much appreciated.

 

[Seamaiden]

^^ Perlite is something that I strongly dislike and it never stays where you put it LOL


Yes

Albreicht ratios are not that important, provided that your cation exchange capacity is high enough and there is enough of each element there. what is more important is the calcium / magnesium ratio which will directly bind soil... Either add a calcium source, or change from dolomite lime to calcitic lime... Excess Magnesium can cause you problems because it can interfere with the uptake of other, needed nutrients resulting in plants in stress that are more attractive to insects.
Balance is what is needed.

A & L GREAT LAKES LABORATORIES
Calcitic or Dolomitic Limestone? (pdf)

Choosing Between Liming Materials - Soil Science at UW-Madison

:D I heart this post.