Hydrogen Peroxide Vs Beneficial Microbes

[akaKGB]

:bong-hits::bong-hits:Hey yall...I could really use some info on this subject as I am in flowering week 3 and I have always used Hydrogen Peroxide for massive amounts of oxygen to my roots....but now I am questioning if I should stop the hydrogen peroxide and add beneficial microbes for the last month of flowering???Unfortunetly Hydrogen peroxide kills the beneficial microbes so really its one way or the other........any help greatly appreciated KGB

 

[mace]

You could be a crazy man and do both, by that i mean use h202 once a week and tea the next day to re-establish the microbes. It's cool but wasteful. If you want to do h202 like once a month, that's fine. It could help with root rot and such, but i would suggest dealing with the cause rather than trying to treat for it. Keep your roots cool and moist but not wet and allow for the medium to dry out a bit. Always make sure to have plenty of additives in your medium for sufficient drainage.

Bottom line. Only use h202 when you must to your roots. Running an air pump in your water before you feed will do the same thing and wont kill the good colonies every time you feed. you need these microbes in soil more than any other medium. They help break down the foods for the plants.

Im stoned. I hope that all reads well.

 

[Purkle]

Great points as I have always wondered about h202.

 

[Aligee]

Theres a thread on this in thee advanced tech. forum

 

[astro]

Mace has the answer. Run the air pumps for oxygen and leave the peroxide out. Peroxide is very short term anyway.

 

[akaKGB]

Thank you Mace for your comments...and Im starting to think yer right about microbes being more important especially if my roots have never really had a problem getting enough oxygen and if I pump enough oxygen via air stones I should be able to bypass the n2o2 unless terribly needed.. thank you for yer help all! Any other ideas anyone..??KGB

 

[Jalisco Kid]

Bio-organics.com Their landscape is the same has AN piranha, but 10 times cheaper. Though I never understood why the would add the ectos. Same price so I did not try to overthink it. Suerte JK

 

[Slick]

You can use both if you put an oxydator in your reservoir, that's how they advertise them at least but having never seen them in action I would test it on a small scale first.

Here is the thread Aligee mentioned:

 

[Donk Frog]

Reeferman posted a really interesting read on this subject, it on the site just look for it

 

[akaKGB]

Thanxs alot guys ....I ended up going with Hydro Organics-Mycorrhizae...I hope this does the job :) ...and thank you JaliscoKid for the site post I will def check it out ..I was gonna go with General Hydro Sub Culture has like 52 kinds of Microbes and such but I woulda had to of ordered it and then wait and I cant wait my babies are blooming...Pirahna also looks like a good one and thanxs for the comments JaliscoKid, Slick, and Donk Frog! Mucho Mota KGB

 

[Aligee]

Try "Great White" by plant success best bet for your buck!

 

[hoosierdaddy]

h2o2 will increase the oxygen content 100 times what an air stone could possibly.

The free radical oxygen molecule that is released by h202 does indeed attack bacteria, but it attacks ANAEROBIC bacterium, which is what we want to be attacked and killed.
The oxygen actually feeds and increases the health of AEROBIC bacterium, which is what we want fed and kept healthy.

 

[chace]

Does that mean you can use hydroguard and h2o2 together?

 

[chace]

Bump,Bump<bkp
:afroweed::rasta:



!

 

[Redux]

A close friend that regularly uses a microscope tested a small amount of H2O2 in a fresh tea and said it killed...or at least stunned...ALL of the bacteria in the tea. They just stopped moving. The fungi were a different story cause they just slooooowly plod along and he couldn't tell from his microscopy analysis if they were affected.

As others have said just increase aeration. an air stone, driven properly, will provide all the O2 you need. Actually it's better if you just go with open lines but to each his own.

 

[The Pollinator]

Remember to only use FOOD GRADE h2o2!!! 35%! Any other hydrogen peroxide or h2o2 will be useless and or damaging to a plant.

 

[click80]

h2o2 will increase the oxygen content 100 times what an air stone could possibly.

The free radical oxygen molecule that is released by h202 does indeed attack bacteria, but it attacks ANAEROBIC bacterium, which is what we want to be attacked and killed.
The oxygen actually feeds and increases the health of AEROBIC bacterium, which is what we want fed and kept healthy.

I don't know if you can google it, but there is a product (commercial) called Zerotel. I think it was on their website somewhere that they had posted two studies done with commercial hydro operations. Zerotel is nothing more than H2O2, but they call it Hydrogen Dioxide, no difference though. Anyway, they were showing the persistence of H2O2 in two different settings. One was when they were actively flooding like 7000 gallons of solution into lettuce systems, like I said it was commercial. The other was when it was just sitting in the tank. In both cases (don't quote me but i am pretty sure about this) in both cases over 50% remained after 48 hours, and actually I think it was better than that. Once I get this run done I will track that down and post it here. Regardless, I have had good results using H2O2, but I feel under the right circumstances (system, enviroment) beneficials is the absolute way to go. I am going to be using CAPs bennies soon in one table, and another product called Rootshield which is two specific Trichoderma strains, Trich. Virens and Trich Harzanuim T-22 both of which when applied when plant is seedling stage, and then every 12 days (I think) is extremely toxic to the pathogens, and specific pathogen strains which cause the most trouble. I am going to use the Rootshield in conjuction with teas. First time on this so I ordered some Xanax....lol

 

[ttystikk]

I had massive root rot issues in my RDWC, no matter what I used, until I got my water temps down to the low 60s. 62 is where I'm told pythium rot stops growing, and colder water holds more dissolved oxygen than warm water does, which helps those levels. once I got my water temps under control, root rot was suddenly a thing of the past, no bennies required. I occasionally inoculate with H2O2 and I use bleach to clean between runs, but the only root zone product I use with plants in place is DM Zone, and even then not very often. I haven't had the guts or time to try beneficial tea, but my guess is it would work even better at these temps than it would at warmer ones, due to the extra dissolved oxygen in solution.

You didn't mention what kind of system you're running, or any of your current environmental measurements, so I hope this helps.

Adding H2O2 to your water is NOT the same as increasing oxygenation. If it were, then either airstones would kill all waterborne microbes, or H2O2 wouldn't kill any of them...

 

[pRiMo303]

Thanxs alot guys ....I ended up going with Hydro Organics-Mycorrhizae...I hope this does the job :) ...and thank you JaliscoKid for the site post I will def check it out ..I was gonna go with General Hydro Sub Culture has like 52 kinds of Microbes and such but I woulda had to of ordered it and then wait and I cant wait my babies are blooming...Pirahna also looks like a good one and thanxs for the comments JaliscoKid, Slick, and Donk Frog! Mucho Mota KGB

I was thrown some Pirhana by a guy at the shop on my last..then I was thrown some of CAPULATOR'S BENNEFICIALS for this grow. I didnt price the product you went with, but it was probably way overpriced for the amount of spores. The difference in the Pirhana and Cap's was like the difference in giving and not giving. Look at the Cap Benne sub forum in the Nutrient forum. I had a Chemdog #4 that did such a turn around after giving Cap's foliar pack as a drench that I almost killed her again so I could photo document the change. The second time wasnt quite as aggresive, but she was potted up from a 1 to 5 gal when I watered in the foliar pack. I think the transplant caused the change to be slightly less aggressive than the first time. Ill post pics of time of trans, 48 hrs, and a week if you would like to see. Not trying to thread jack.

 

[click80]

Link to that study....just an FYI for peeps that like to read that stuff...I thought it was pretty interesting...it shows a few different parameters tested including efficacy against organics and versus Hydrogen Peroxide. I guess there is a difference in the Zerotol, it has an extra ingredient to make it so "magical" and "durable"....lol

http://www.enviroselects.com/downloads/dl/file/id/26/durability_study_against_pythium_and_phytophthora.pdf