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I Need Some Spider Mite Stats?

juggernaut 30 Replies 3,872 Views
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Page 2 of 2 · Replies 21–31 of 31
#21
Man I can't get rid of them. I have given my next grow with a 21 day break where theres nothing in it.

Any suggestions on what I should do and how i should do it.
Damn spider mites.
Now its time to go on a rampage.

Ty
HELP
 
#22
Beauty Supplies carry 30-40% H2O2, but they call it by another name: I have Clear 40. Dilute 1:10 for 3%. To get these varmints I would dilute 2:10 .The residue is pure H2O. You need to repeat every few days to make sure you get all the larvae

hth
 
#24
juggernaut said:
Man I can't get rid of them. I have given my next grow with a 21 day break where theres nothing in it.

Any suggestions on what I should do and how i should do it.
Damn spider mites.
Now its time to go on a rampage.

Ty
HELP
Click to expand...

How far into flower at this point? Spider Mites are a constant problem where I live so I really understand your frustration. If you've got several weeks left Azamax is a safe option. If you're girls are heavily infested and/or the spider mites are naturally occurring, all you can hope to do is control them. I didn't check to see if you mentioned whether your girls are outdoor or not. If outdoor your they will likely get through to harvest with only a little loss in yield as long as you can keep the infestation to a minimum. I've got them all over my last outdoor plant and I'll give it a couple, maybe three, Azamax applications to reduce the population till harvest. I don't panic about them anymore since I've rarely heard of them actually killing an outdoor plant of any decent sise.

To answer your original questions...

Spider Mites are fast moving and can travel up a 10'+ plant in less than an hour. They also parachute over great distances on their webs if there's any breese.

Here's some info from Penn State University Ag Deparment...

Life History
This pest overwinters as mature yellowish-orange females under bark or ground cover around the base of the host plant (most other species of spider mites overwinter as eggs on the host plant). After mating, females lay eggs on the underside of leaves at the rate of 2-6 a day. Each female may lay as many as 100 during her lifetime. Eggs hatch in 2-6 days into young mites. The young mites shed exoskeletons three times before becoming mature. Depending on weather conditions, a complete generation of this pest may be completed in 7-20 days. The various generations overlap and all stages can be found on most host plants during the summer months. There may be 10-15 generations completed a year in Pennsylvania. Hot dry weather favors the development of severe infestations of this pest.

https://ento.psu.edu/extension/factsheets/twospotted-spider-mite
 
#26
Seraphine said:
This provides an overview and all the methods to treat (at bottom of article). If you’re in a legal state, you can call your local extension agent.
https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/HYG-2012-11

Also look into diatomaceous earth and sulfur powder to use as a dry dust (I haven’t researched this much as a dry dust so I’m not sure of it’s application during flower).
Click to expand...

I remember reading something about sulfur when I first started battling with mites. I shied away from it for reasons I can't remember. DE is pretty much useless against spider mites. It'll keep other crawling soft bellied pests off your plants if the ground below it is dusted but spider mites generally parachute in on webs. Even if you dusted the plant itself (I've done this before) it doesn't get to them on the underside of the leaves.
 
#27
SmithsJunk said:
I remember reading something about sulfur when I first started battling with mites. I shied away from it for reasons I can't remember. DE is pretty much useless against spider mites. It'll keep other crawling soft bellied pests off your plants if the ground below it is dusted but spider mites generally parachute in on webs. Even if you dusted the plant itself (I've done this before) it doesn't get to them on the underside of the leaves.
Click to expand...
I was thinking DE to kill the larvae?

Elemental Sulfur is generally safe. Approved for organic farming use as a miticide. It has many uses...
https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/SulfurLivestockTR.pdf
 
#28
Seraphine said:
I was thinking DE to kill the larvae?

Elemental Sulfur is generally safe. Approved for organic farming use as a miticide. It has many uses...
https://www.ams.usda.gov/sites/default/files/media/SulfurLivestockTR.pdf
Click to expand...

It's still the same problem. Spider Mites in all stages tend to be on the underside of the leaves. I 100% agree, if you can get it on them it'll work but the nature of dust is that it settles on upward facing surfaces.

Yeah, I've heard of sulfur being used before by pro-growers. I just remember thinking there was some sort of drawback to it enough for me to shy away. Illhave to look into it again. When I first researched it I didn't know how bad the native mites here were. I need to up my game.
 
#29
SmithsJunk said:
It's still the same problem. Spider Mites in all stages tend to be on the underside of the leaves. I 100% agree, if you can get it on them it'll work but the nature of dust is that it settles on upward facing surfaces.

Yeah, I've heard of sulfur being used before by pro-growers. I just remember thinking there was some sort of drawback to it enough for me to shy away. Illhave to look into it again. When I first researched it I didn't know how bad the native mites here were. I need to up my game.
Click to expand...

If you remember why you stayed away from sulfur, let me know. I could see how application could be a problem. I know there are handheld powder “blowers” that can be used to make application on the underside of leaves easier. You do need to wear a mask over your nose and mouth when applying sulfur powder and DE.

We have pine mites outside and I spray the ornamental pines by my house each year as a precaution.
 
#30
juggernaut said:
Man I can't get rid of them. I have given my next grow with a 21 day break where theres nothing in it.

Any suggestions on what I should do and how i should do it.
Damn spider mites.
Now its time to go on a rampage.

Ty
HELP
Click to expand...

Have you tried your own mix?

Try a wand sprayer mixed with Neem + Insecticidal Soap + Permethrin.

In 2 liters try
20ml Einstein Oil
20ml Potassiam Salts/Fatty Acids (The soap cuts/atomizes the neem)
x2 Bottle dose of Permethrin or Pyrthrins.

Make sure the water is distilled or RO and warm - like 110 degrees or so.

You also add Avid or Floramite to this mix if you can get it.

Do NOT use imadicloprid.

Repeat after 5 - 6 days.
 
#31
Just a heads up that there will be no plants in the room for a period of 21 days. it sounds like a lot of the responses are to be used on the plants.
So I don't have to worry about burning the leaves or having pesticides on my weed to inhale.
Next to setting the room on fire I'm looking for a pesticide that will leave no survivors or mercy:)
 
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