I Submit For Your Review, My Latest Patty Out Of The Vac.

[WesCyber]

So I have been have horrible problems with making what the Biz calls a MVP or Minimal Viable Product in my Wax/Shatter line. Everything always comes out dark, I mean nearly black. Well I don't know how good this last run is, its till a little dark but when I peal it a from the slickmat it's completely see through. Tell me what you guys think.

 

[3N1GM4]

How fine do you break up your product b4 you blast it or add whatever solvent?
Do you freeze your product and dishes first?
How long does the solvent come in contact with your material? i.e. how many cans of tane, how long you run co2 extractor, how long you shake jar of alcohol etc...

 

[WesCyber]

I freeze the nugs for at least 24 hours prior to blasting. I don't break it up prior to loading but while I am packing my tube I will crush the frozen buds with my hands. Just so its not whole nugs, but not powder either. I add tane to my closed column tube 3 times with a 30 minute soak after each. So a little over 90 mins total tiem in contact with the material.

 

[3N1GM4]

Is your tane reused or in cans? You are using a glass tube or larger stainless extractor?
I would just put tane through it once and then switch dishes b4 blasting a second time. The first blast will get you your purest golden product.
Edit, sorry I see it says closed column now

I would do different runs if you want a purer product, blasting 3 times into the same batch mixes it all.

 

[WesCyber]

Right now my tane is Whip-It premium and in cans, I'm using a 1lb closed column extractor from BVV. I will pull a full vac on the tube after packing with material. Then I will soak the tube in an ice water bath for 30mins before filling with butane. I can normally get about 4 cans in at this time. I will plunge it into the ice water for another 30 mins to drop the internal pressure of the tube back down and add another can to can and a half to the tube. Another 30 mins in the bath and one more attempt to get butane into the tube, normally another can or so. One last 30 min soak in the ice water and then I'm drying off the tube and open air blasting directly into a heated pyrex @ 70 f.

 

[3N1GM4]

I know that the longer your solvent comes in contact with your flower the darker your end product will be. With iso slab, you dont want to shake it more than 30 seconds or you will get a dark or green product. Maybe your starting out with too dry of a flower, you want about 20% moisture content in your frozen flowers, any less and the flowers crumble to dust and you end up with plant matter in your bho. You could always winterize it...

 

[WesCyber]

I think I just got some good advice. There is almost 80 grams in the slab, a buddy just told my to cut the shit in half. I do have 2 shatter vacs and an extra blast pyrex. It makes sense cause where it gets thin in the middle its a nice yellow color.

 

[waxman]

I think I just got some good advice. There is almost 80 grams in the slab, a buddy just told my to cut the shit in half. I do have 2 shatter vacs and an extra blast pyrex. It makes sense cause where it gets thin in the middle its a nice yellow color.

@WesCyber, If your oil is thick it will look darker. Also, try blasting onto a un-heated dish. I found that my oil is darker and less stable. I add heat about 10-15 min after blasting. I also noticed that every time I run the Closed Column from BVV it comes out darker??

 

[WesCyber]

I bought the BVV stuff cause of the price while just learning the process. I think I will be upgrading to a 5 lb. closed loop system soon.

 

[waxman]

I bought the BVV stuff cause of the price while just learning the process. I think I will be upgrading to a 5 lb. closed loop system soon.

Let me know if you get serious, I am selling one. I purchased 2 from BVV. 1 for me and 1 for a friend. Who never paid me!! It is a complete Passive Closed Loop system. The 1 for sale only has a 60-90 g column, but they are all scalable. I will take a loss on it that I am sure of..

 

[waxman]

Here is a pic of a thicker piece and a thinner one for comparison.

 

[waxman]

I usually do a technique called thin film vac purging, which helps cut down on purging times and keeps my temps lower. Always get the clearer stuff this way.