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I haven't used them but Mystre.Pharmer cools his room with iceboxes:
Good Luck!
Well due to the RIDICULOUS weather we have had recently, I had to forgo this little project and grab an A/C.
It wasn't me that caused the substation to blow up though.
:confused0059:
I will come back around to this shortly, as I f'ed up (in a good way). This location actually has a 1/3HP chiller and I would still like to test out immersion res chillers and water cooled air handlers.
Can you at least locate the chiller outside during summer use so that all the heat created as well as the heat moved from the grow room will be dumped outside.
I thought of using a heater core from a truck or a small car radiator and building a box or fitting it to some type of plastic container.
As long as the water flowing through the set up is not a solution that will come in contact with the plants that would work fine. You can buy titanium tubing for a heat exchanger in a reservoir and just used RO water flowing through the heater core. hose and the titanium tubing in the reservoir. This would keep the lead and copper from the core or aluminum from a core from entering your nutrient water.
The best ones are from large construction equipment, semi trucks and busses. The motors will not be of much use though unless you want to buy a large AC to DC invertor.
Ok now the only reason you would want to do this is if you had a sealed grow and running co2. When you run a sealed grow you must either have two fans, 1 for the lights (basically outside the grow, going to your lights, back to the outside, and 1 for the carbon filter that stays in the grow. OR, a variation like my setup currently..
carbon filter-424 cfm fan-going to the light(s) going to the icebox. The icebox is essentially a radiator. Well that stuff coming out is hot, unless you cool it with water. The problem is with more heat, the water in return gets hot and then you have issues again. So you must keep that res decently cool. It does work nicely though. I do not have a/c in the grow but the chiller for the rdwc reservoir is currently good enough to keep things in check. I should be running another chiller to the lights reservoir to help things even better in check, temp wise. This is the problem that fatman has which I understand his point, is with TWO chillers, it starts becoming nuts with watts and coolers but if you find a balance, you should be able to get it right. Check out my RDWC thread as this is my current setup as well.
Efficiency is what we are trying to accomplish in the first place with this method. Lets see if it bites us in the :icon_animal26:
Mystre,
Wow, such wastage of watts. Do you actually know how little difference there is between a window air conditioner and a dehumidifier. A window air conditioner has an extractor coil, a condenso coil, a compressor and two fans. An air conditioners #1 fan blows warm moist air through the cold extractor and therefore water condenses on its surface and absorbs heat it send to its condensor. The once moist air is blown into the room as cool air, the heat is extracted at the condensor by outside air and blown out by fan #2 IE it is an dehumidifier that exhausts heat out doors. A dehumifier draws moist warm through the extractor so that the moisture condenses. The now cool air is blown through the condensor where it is rewarmed and re enters the room. Ie the air conditioner cools the room and dehumififies. The dehumidifier just dehumidifies.
If you wish to improve your set up, use a window air conditioner set inside the room as a dehumifier. It uses the same wattage and cost 1/3 as much. You simply need to set the air conditioner so that one side of the rear is lower so all water drains from one spot. Use a simple humidistat as a controller. Use a window air conditioner for cooling.
It appears your just dumpig your heat into another room rather than outside so as long as you are exhausting its heat out side of the room it will work as well as your watt wasting system. Unless you are putting your lights down to two or three inches below the plants rather than 6 inches or so then there is no real gain to using water chiiled lighting especially considering the high prices and poor quality of nearly all commonly sold chillers. Air cooled tubes are nearly always good enough.
If you think you need a chiller simply buy a large window air conditioner and buy a GOOD Titanium chiller heat exchanger on eBay. If you want a top class chiller, buy a refrigerant filter, sight glass and a haed pressure device. Then the air coniditioner can run all year around, sitting outside like a split unit.
Yes, I imagine your system works, but it is absurdly wasteful energy wise and just directs the heat to another part of your house where you will then have to deal with it twice.
Even consider the simple fact that a dehudimifier costs over 3 times as much as a comparable sized Sears window air conditioner. Most chillers have very small titanium heta exchangers, no filter, site glass or head prsssure device so the sit inside and simply remove heat from tour water and dump it into the air so tha you then have to pay for the energy to remove the excess heat in the air.
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