yes, I do indeed have prior data. The MFR of the sensor did their own testing as they should and provided those results and procedures. I then did my own minor testing over several weeks to verify, not as extensive, essentially just created base line readings, took readings from dry soil that i use and then readings from saturated soil, readings while it was in the air, or just in water etc, and then with that data I get a rough idea of what the soil in the plant should be during normal cycles. I wrote all the code in C++. It could probably of been wrote in python much easier but I started the project for a final project in my C++ class, and i'll probably build more on it for my EE senior project. (To remove suspensions that i have no engineering experience prior to this im currently an ME adding another degree on.)Do you have prior data to refer to for the optimal conditions?
Also curious what language did you use to code It? I mostly have experience scripting, but I've dabbled with C++.
I prefer Python, I stopped actively scripting in December due to job change unfortunately
well I dont take soil samples every week or every month for nutrients, and my sensor is only for water, I havent designed in the ability to take nutrient readings yet so its very much still manual. Seems like you misunderstand my comments about the sensor and the moisure.
I havent gave the plant any N for a more than a month now, so how can N be the problem if im not giving it any? Chemical reactions dont lie, and their unbiased. I stopped giving the plant N at the first signs of flowering, so Y after a month+ would there be problems now unless its caused by a different nutrient?
I appreciate that, its just that the sensor only does moisture and temperature, thats it, nothing more nothing less, and that data for how moist the soil is can be backed up via testing, or taking a reading and going in and verifying that the reading is accurate. I'll explain how the sensor works and maybe it will help you understand. Currently their are 2 ways that I've researched on how to detect water levels in soil, one is through resistance, this takes 2 probes and passes voltage across those probes. If i put 5volts in but i detect 3 volts, this return is then computed into a resistance, its simply ohms law. the resistance changes depending on how much water is in the soil, less resistance = more water, more resistance = less water. My setup uses capacitance instead, bc using resistances causes the water in the soil to electrolyze creating hydrogen and degrades the sensor over time. Similar concept except its how fast the capcitor charges = the water level. I didnt design the sensor, but even if i did, the only math involved would be figuring out how to calculate those values, and then you test to make sure that when the water is high it reads high etc, which doesnt exactly require math just that i know what the readings should look like under given circumstances.
well the OP was for all the larfy buds and how i could turn it awound not the color of my leaves, which btw i did all the suggestions there. I then asked about the yellowing of the leaves which was a newer development and then people jumped to the conclusion that it was a nitrogen problem and fixated onto the dark green leaves which is also a sign of high phosphorus btw and wouldnt you know it, the nutrients i was giving it was higher in phosphorus which was then backed up by my soil samples. Sorry that I dont take everyones opinion at face value, I've worked with plenty of ppl that were supposed to be experts in their field and they were severily lacking their abilities. I've had ppl swear up and down about a problem on other forums only to have them all be wrong b/c they refused to look at the facts.
To much of the data pointed to something else, If i stopped giving the plant nitrogen over a month ago and started giving it new nutrients that where higher in phosphorus and then the soil samples, showed high phosphorus and low nitrogen plus the dark leaves also being a sign of high phosphorus not just nitrogen, and the leaves show signs based on other studies of low potassium and the soil samples show low potassium, why would I continue to believe that its a high nitrogen problem? I maybe new to growing cannabis but I'm not new to researching, troubleshooting or data collection.
It's because we are reading your plants, not your data.
I appreciate you acknowledging that, I dont have a means to give an exact number value reading but the Ph kit i have does show the Ph between 6-7 this is using those water test strips and taking the water off the run off during flushing. I used another Ph test kit to make sure of the accuracy, I dont have a different soil sampling kit to test validity of the the previous nutrients readings though.
If you are in the USA, you can take a sample of your soil to your local agriculture office where they can test it with pretty much state of the art equipment. Since what you're doing is more than just "growing a few plants" and you're actually trying to dial in sensors that measure different conditions in real time ... this extra step might prove beneficial in either refuting or backing up your data.
I can understand having faulty data, but I looked at more than just a single set of data. The color of the leaves, the soil sample, the nutrients that it was being fed to it etc, and then look at the things that stay consistent throughout those. Dark leaves could be nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium, from I looked at data and deducted things that were not consistent.
Did you test for Mg? Because that's what I mentioned. I also asked you follow up questions that got ignored. It must be because you know better.
I keep a copy of the same jpeg on my computer. While it is excellent information, the photograph doesn't go far enough in describing subtle differences. This is where you, the grower, can help figure out what is going on by knowing the basics of your soil mix. What this means is if your soil is starting "in range," and you have recorded your watering routine with amounts + any nutrients added to the feed, then you can begin to sift through a chart. However, as you have said yourself, the symptoms can be shared by a number of different issues. This is why it's important to have good records so you can go back through your notes to help diagnose issues.
I've thought about doing this, and you're absolutely right about doing this to verify sensor data, unfortunately bc it seems like it keeps being glanced over my current sensors do not detect nutrients, just water. So i cant use the sensor to refute nutrient data, but i can use it to refute that the soil hasn't been over watered.
In the photo shown in the post by @Grownsince95, yes its classic magnesium issues ... but it goes beyond just that. It's also telling me that you're trying to drive your plants too hard with light. Photosynthesis breaks down when magnesium issues occur. Why? Because its the central most atom in the photosynthesis reaction. Turning down the lights a bit usually gives a grower some extra time to correct the problem before it becomes crash and burn.