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Indoor grow diary. 3rd grow

Move your hygrometer off the top of the light and try and place it as close to the canopy as possible so that you get true readings of the plants immediate environment. The duct tape on your fan is blocking air flow. Try and mount it some other way so...
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Indoor grow diary. 3rd grow

by trt92 · Started Feb 12, 2024
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PooToe

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#21
Move your hygrometer off the top of the light and try and place it as close to the canopy as possible so that you get true readings of the plants immediate environment.

The duct tape on your fan is blocking air flow. Try and mount it some other way so that the fan can freely circulate air throughout the tent.

If you want to setup an automated irrigation buy a digital timer, pond pump, some 1/4"/2.5mm drip line and some drip tees. You can also use drip stakes but that is just another cost to add on to your system.

Take 4 drip tees and some drip line and cut the drip line pieces so that you make a circle with the drip line and the tees. Try and get the circle to lay in the middle of the soil top between your plant stalk and the edge of the pot. All four tees will have the middle leg pointing away from the center of the circle. Measure out the length of drip line that you will be need to connect to your pond pump. Turn 3 of the tees middle legs pointing down while the 4th is still sticking out. Connect the drip line you connected to your pond pump to the 4th tee. Submerge the pond pump in a bucket of nutrient solution. Turn on pump.

You can automate it by setting up the pond pump in the timer to water when you want it to and as frequently as you need it to.
 
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trt92

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#22
PooToe said:
Move your hygrometer off the top of the light and try and place it as close to the canopy as possible so that you get true readings of the plants immediate environment.

The duct tape on your fan is blocking air flow. Try and mount it some other way so that the fan can freely circulate air throughout the tent.

If you want to setup an automated irrigation buy a digital timer, pond pump, some 1/4"/2.5mm drip line and some drip tees. You can also use drip stakes but that is just another cost to add on to your system.

Take 4 drip tees and some drip line and cut the drip line pieces so that you make a circle with the drip line and the tees. Try and get the circle to lay in the middle of the soil top between your plant stalk and the edge of the pot. All four tees will have the middle leg pointing away from the center of the circle. Measure out the length of drip line that you will be need to connect to your pond pump. Turn 3 of the tees middle legs pointing down while the 4th is still sticking out. Connect the drip line you connected to your pond pump to the 4th tee. Submerge the pond pump in a bucket of nutrient solution. Turn on pump.

You can automate it by setting up the pond pump in the timer to water when you want it to and as frequently as you need it to.
Click to expand...
I will see how the ceramic sticks work first as they where litteraly free on temu. But ive seen they sell what you mention to for a good price, but might have to use 200 bucks for it, compared to 20dollar for 20 ceramic sticks i got.

About the nutrient you say i cam put in... doesnt it spoil fast if not used right away? I cant have it in there for 2 weeks... ?
 
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PooToe

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#23
I've run nutrient reservoirs with nutrient in them for weeks on end. When you do that you have to be aware of molecule precipitation. You don't want to mix anything with phosphates or nitrates with calcium products.
 
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trt92

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#24
PooToe said:
I've run nutrient reservoirs with nutrient in them for weeks on end. When you do that you have to be aware of molecule precipitation. You don't want to mix anything with phosphates or nitrates with calcium products.
Click to expand...
Biobizz biogrow , biobizz biobloom, biobizz acto vera & biobizz top max is what i have & use. Can i put all this in water and it can stay fine for 2 weeks?
 
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trt92

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#25
trt92 said:
Feeding: root juice,bio grow, acti vera, bio bloom, top max.
Click to expand...
Found this dosing manual from biobizz.. seem abit overkill to me, with dosing and how early to start fertelizing.. but it says start when plants are 10-15cm or has gotten 2-4 leaf pairs... it also states when using the biobizz light mix soil, which is what inusr..
 

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PooToe

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#26
trt92 said:
Biobizz biogrow , biobizz biobloom, biobizz acto vera & biobizz top max is what i have & use. Can i put all this in water and it can stay fine for 2 weeks?
Click to expand...
Yes. You can keep them in a reservoir for weeks on end as long as you don't mix phosphates and nitrates with calcium.
 
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trt92

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#27
The plants are growing fast. I was home watering them saturday and i see a huge difference in just those few days. I tied the sativas down some but they straight up, weird the toos havnt been burned 5-10cm away. Will have to move out the coal filter and fan and move light up as much as i can and maybe find som netting on the walls to bind them in a circle or something..
I also put a bottle on one of the ceramic stticks, following the instruction, and watered the plant before i put it down , and ill see how long it lasts... strangly it doesnt fit all bottles, only the old bottles without the new bottle caps thats suppose to be more enviromentally friendly, so here i really gotta save up on those few types that is left
 

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trt92

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#28
The ceramic sticks with the 1.5 litre bottles doesnt seem to work-.- they just slowly drip water from day 1 , nomather how wet the soil is.. prob need water resoirvar with some pumping system.. or just get my brother to water it once
 
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trt92

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#29
PooToe said:
Move your hygrometer off the top of the light and try and place it as close to the canopy as possible so that you get true readings of the plants immediate environment.

The duct tape on your fan is blocking air flow. Try and mount it some other way so that the fan can freely circulate air throughout the tent.

If you want to setup an automated irrigation buy a digital timer, pond pump, some 1/4"/2.5mm drip line and some drip tees. You can also use drip stakes but that is just another cost to add on to your system.

Take 4 drip tees and some drip line and cut the drip line pieces so that you make a circle with the drip line and the tees. Try and get the circle to lay in the middle of the soil top between your plant stalk and the edge of the pot. All four tees will have the middle leg pointing away from the center of the circle. Measure out the length of drip line that you will be need to connect to your pond pump. Turn 3 of the tees middle legs pointing down while the 4th is still sticking out. Connect the drip line you connected to your pond pump to the 4th tee. Submerge the pond pump in a bucket of nutrient solution. Turn on pump.

You can automate it by setting up the pond pump in the timer to water when you want it to and as frequently as you need it to.
Click to expand...
Hi. Fixed the fan thing in the small tent..& moved out the coal and fan from small tent and moved light to the roof. The pure sativas is stretching up eay faster then prev strains, even if i try tie them down.
about the hygrometer on the lamp, does it mather? The cable from it that gives info is hanging down right above the canopys..

And the ceramic sticks i got didnt work as they should.. just starts dripping slowly ftrom day 1, nomather how wet soil... 1.5 litre bottle wil be empty in few days..
About the pumping system.. could you find me some good cheap alternative on teemu etc?
 
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trt92

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#30
Update. Moved the fan, raised the light. Tho these sativas will still be to long for the tent. All i can do is bind them down
 

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HerbalEdu

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#31
the 3x3 looks awesome:

may be it's about time to remove the lower branches that don't make it canopy level, as well as starting to remove some of the lower bud site to deep below canopy and eventually do a little defoliation near the top to give a better light exposure to the branches that make it to canopy level.
 
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HerbalEdu

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#32
here an exemple of defoliation i did with mine.

before defoliation:



after removing 2 leaves per plant:



after removing another 2 leaves per plant:


you can see more lower branches top get a better exposure to light after each defoliation
 
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trt92

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#33
HerbalEdu said:
here an exemple of defoliation i did with mine.

before defoliation:
View attachment 2133116


after removing 2 leaves per plant:
View attachment 2133117


after removing another 2 leaves per plant:
View attachment 2133118

you can see more lower branches top get a better exposure to light after each defoliation
Click to expand...
How about cutting under? Just cut of entire lower branches?
 
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HerbalEdu

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#34
trt92 said:
How about cutting under? Just cut of entire lower branches?
Click to expand...
defoliation and cuting of lower branches will be a lot dependent on the strain and phenotypes, not all plant need the same treatment.

and yeah some lower branches can be cut entirely when they don't benefit from enough light because they'r too small and didn't make it to canopy level.

for exemple branches like this or a little taller within the canopy you can remove:
 
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HerbalEdu

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#35
to give you an idea i have removed 2-4 branches per plant with mine

if you doubt removing a branche or some lower bud site , just leaves them and worst case you'll get a few larfy buds per plants that's not the end of the world. And that's gonna give you a better idea on what to remove and what to keep next grow.
 
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trt92

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#36
Update:

Starting to become some buds here:)
Also the cheap ceramic sticks i bought work afterall. U can see half a bottle left and its like 8 days ago i gave it water. The rest of the plants got water 5 days ago, thats why they hang down some.. also looks like some of the plants behind want more grow nutes?
About the leaf/branch cuttings in the big tent ive been to lazy/busy to do anything about.. should i still do it at this time, or just let it be?
 

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HerbalEdu

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#37
not it's not too late to do a little cleaning bottom of canopy, or you can let it be and you'll better know what to remove next grow
 
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trt92

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#38
Update:
Buds getting bugger in the big tent. They dont seem to grow so much in the small tent.. but niticed sime stay still sometime and then explode in bud size.. idk. And top leaves of the right highest plant in small tent still have some hanginh leaves.. dont know why.. temp has been seinging oretty low during dark times, so ive noticed the plants in bith tents drinks alot less, probably because of that.
Also see more yellow leaves that i always see long into flowering.. gave them some more bio grow now
 

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HerbalEdu

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#39
sativa usually stretch a little longer and take longer to mature and swell.

Looking good

and yeah look like some of them can handle more nitrogen
 
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trt92

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#40
Going to harvest both the i indica and sativa tomorrow. Looked at them yesterday and i could see milky tricomes.. even the thin sativa had gotten bigger buds all of a sudden on 8 days.. still smaller buds then the indica tho,, would probably let both be a few days more, but going away for 14 days, so just thankful they matured enough just before i leave. If not i would have probably just watered it and let them dry & die while i was gone and cut them of when i arived, read that can be done too. Was also supriced that the soil was still moist after 8 days without watering,, but plants have grown buds and matured, just seems weird they didnt drink at the end almost...
Didnt get to take any pictures but wil do it tomorrow
 
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