Introduction and plea for help..

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Ollieboy

Ollieboy

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Ollie.. longtime smoker 1st attempts both indoor & out this year.

Outdoor had many self inflicted issues but ended finishing relatively well all things considered.

indoors seems to be the opposite. Had a good start but what seemed to start with a un PH’d feeding has me now chasing my tail. Should note I also have been dealing with fungus gnats but from everything I’ve read they are more annoyance than threat...?..

Setup.. bought a bloomgrow 60”x48”x80” grow kit from amazon. It’s a 2-1 setup so have clones in small section under t5’s & 1 confidential cheese that’ll be 4wks into flower this Saturday under 1200W full spec in big side. I’m using promix hp with added perlite & am using the advanced nutes ph perfect trio. Just added an sensi cal mag xtra to last 2 feedings. Humidity ranges low 40’s/low 60’s temp range 58/74.

As you can see from the pic it’s fading from the bottom up. (Thought maybe nitrogen due to moving up plant?) My dilemma is, tips show what looks like maybe nute burn? I’ve been very stingy with the nutes since I nearly killed outdoor plants with nitrogen toxicity so am hoping to hear I just need to up the nute regimen.

Also, any opinions on it being in this state this far into flower? Will it make it?

Appreciate any & all help. This sites been a great resource this year & im hoping with knowledge from here, I can save my 1st indoor grow
Introduction and plea for help
.
 
RR1

RR1

227
63
First of all, welcome to indoor growing, easy ain't it?
Get rid of fungus gnats, they are more than an annoyance, they are probably part of the probs you are seeing. The other problem is also why you have gnats: overwatering, if you are in dirt. (One of the biggest cardinal sins). If you stop watering so much, the fungus gnats should disappear. If you are doing hydro, there are products for that, but i've never had them in hydro. Are you also looking for spider mites? They are another major problem with indoor grows. Keep an eye out. One of the reasons I love tents is that it is easier to keep bugs out, unless you bring them in. Don't take clones from other people. I never had mites for years, until it was legal for medical in 2008 and we all started trading clones. Don't wear clothes that you cut grass in, or groomed the dog, etc.
Also 58 degrees at night is too cold. I never go below 70. Mold likes cooler temps. It's not just because of high humidity.
Nutrition problems can be avoided by picking a nutrient line, find a feeding schedule online, and sticking to it. Use all the products they tell you, how they tell you, and only the products they tell you. Resist the urge to add this cuz your buddy swears by it, or that cuz you'll make them grow ten feet. You are not ready to play yet, that's advanced shit, and even most good growers should resist the urge.
Good luck, now get to work.
RR1
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

12,306
438
myself at that stage i would be feeding right at 850 ppm,just me,you mentioned AN ph perfect right,well im sure ive read folks having problems with that brand and using cal mag with the ph perfect nutes,might call AN to make sure.
no mention as what you feed as ph,i asume 6.5 that were you should be anyway.
i have to ask ,next time you feed with the AN ph perfect,mix 1 gal water and add your nutes suggested,let me know what your ec/ppm is along with your ph perfect nutes please,im just curiuos but not enough to buy the product,thanks
welcome to thc farmer mate
 
Ollieboy

Ollieboy

37
18
First of all, welcome to indoor growing, easy ain't it?
Get rid of fungus gnats, they are more than an annoyance, they are probably part of the probs you are seeing. The other problem is also why you have gnats: overwatering, if you are in dirt. (One of the biggest cardinal sins). If you stop watering so much, the fungus gnats should disappear. If you are doing hydro, there are products for that, but i've never had them in hydro. Are you also looking for spider mites? They are another major problem with indoor grows. Keep an eye out. One of the reasons I love tents is that it is easier to keep bugs out, unless you bring them in. Don't take clones from other people. I never had mites for years, until it was legal for medical in 2008 and we all started trading clones. Don't wear clothes that you cut grass in, or groomed the dog, etc.
Also 58 degrees at night is too cold. I never go below 70. Mold likes cooler temps. It's not just because of high humidity.
Nutrition problems can be avoided by picking a nutrient line, find a feeding schedule online, and sticking to it. Use all the products they tell you, how they tell you, and only the products they tell you. Resist the urge to add this cuz your buddy swears by it, or that cuz you'll make them grow ten feet. You are not ready to play yet, that's advanced shit, and even most good growers should resist the urge.
Good luck, now get to work.
RR1

Thanks for the reply RR! The gnats have been a source of frustration as other than the ph issue early into flower I always wait for promix to completely dry out. I also make sure to keep top of soil turned over so it drys faster. I’ve got sticky pads & have tried the diotmacous earth yet the little things won’t completely go away. Any other suggestions to combating them?

Mites.. have been checking daily & haven’t seen any at this point. 🤞🏻 It stays that way.
Thanks again RR, really appreciate the help.
 
Ollieboy

Ollieboy

37
18
myself at that stage i would be feeding right at 850 ppm,just me,you mentioned AN ph perfect right,well im sure ive read folks having problems with that brand and using cal mag with the ph perfect nutes,might call AN to make sure.
no mention as what you feed as ph,i asume 6.5 that were you should be anyway.
i have to ask ,next time you feed with the AN ph perfect,mix 1 gal water and add your nutes suggested,let me know what your ec/ppm is along with your ph perfect nutes please,im just curiuos but not enough to buy the product,thanks
welcome to thc farmer mate

Oldskol, thanks for the reply! My ppm has been reading 600/700 after adding nutes. I’ve been ph’ing to 5.8 due to it being considered “soilless” medium. I do also have the tps bloom & silica for nutes but was recommended an from a buddy & figured I’d give it a try but (clearly) have had some issues dialing it all in.

im due for another feed @ next water which should be either Friday or Saturday depending on how quickly medium drys. I’ll definitely check ppm, ec & ph & let you know what readings are.

Thanks again oldskol! Really appreciate the input!
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

12,306
438
Oldskol, thanks for the reply! My ppm has been reading 600/700 after adding nutes. I’ve been ph’ing to 5.8 due to it being considered “soilless” medium. I do also have the tps bloom & silica for nutes but was recommended an from a buddy & figured I’d give it a try but (clearly) have had some issues dialing it all in.

im due for another feed @ next water which should be either Friday or Saturday depending on how quickly medium drys. I’ll definitely check ppm, ec & ph & let you know what readings are.

Thanks again oldskol! Really appreciate the input!
wait ,you said your using the ph correct AN product right?
you shouldnt have to ph your mix at all ,at least that was my thought on the nutrient line,also if it is the ph correct line ,adding extra things like the silica and tps bloom ,is deviating from the original ph correct line.
this is one the main reasons i wanted to know what a gallon measured out at for ph and ppm of 1 gal of water,and which type water ,tap or ro water that makes a difrence too,should ,but AN claim that there product will correct any water type.
see what i mean,anyway your problem probally lay with adding the extras mate
 
Ollieboy

Ollieboy

37
18
wait ,you said your using the ph correct AN product right?
you shouldnt have to ph your mix at all ,at least that was my thought on the nutrient line,also if it is the ph correct line ,adding extra things like the silica and tps bloom ,is deviating from the original ph correct line.
this is one the main reasons i wanted to know what a gallon measured out at for ph and ppm of 1 gal of water,and which type water ,tap or ro water that makes a difrence too,should ,but AN claim that there product will correct any water type.
see what i mean,anyway your problem probally lay with adding the extras mate

Oldskol, I’m using the AN line for my indoor grow. I had the tps nutes for outdoor. Have only used AN inside.

Collected & used only rain water with the outside grow & was intrigued with the idea of not having to mess with the ph as my tap water (well) is generally 8/9 from the faucet. Sorry for the confusion.

My assumption on the PH “perfect” was I would not need to adjust ph of my water so I just mixed everything & fed.I then started noticing what seemed to be a ph issue so tested water after adding nutes & seen very minimal difference in the ph of water.

admittedly, I may have not allowed enough time for the nutes to adjust ph as I generally mix & feed without much time between.

I’ll be feeding again tomorrow but will mix up a batch tonight. Let it sit & test readings both before & after allowing it to sit for 18/24 hours.

I’ll let you know what readings are as I’m now curious myself :).

Thanks again for the replies. Greatly appreciate it!
 
Ollieboy

Ollieboy

37
18
Oldskol,

Apparently I didn’t know my water as well (pun intended) as I thought 🤦🏻‍♂️.


Test
2 gallons in food grade 5 gallon bucket.
Nutes were according to AN feeding chart at rate of
Grow-2ml per liter
Micro-4ml per
Bloom-6ml per


Straight tap

PH - 7.91
PPM - 260
EC - 532

Directly after nutes

PH - 6.85
PPM - 984
EC - 1947

I’ll retest before feeding time tomorrow & let you know what readings are @ that point.

Opinion on levels after nutes we’re added?
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

12,306
438
Oldskol, I’m using the AN line for my indoor grow. I had the tps nutes for outdoor. Have only used AN inside.

Collected & used only rain water with the outside grow & was intrigued with the idea of not having to mess with the ph as my tap water (well) is generally 8/9 from the faucet. Sorry for the confusion.

My assumption on the PH “perfect” was I would not need to adjust ph of my water so I just mixed everything & fed.I then started noticing what seemed to be a ph issue so tested water after adding nutes & seen very minimal difference in the ph of water.

admittedly, I may have not allowed enough time for the nutes to adjust ph as I generally mix & feed without much time between.

I’ll be feeding again tomorrow but will mix up a batch tonight. Let it sit & test readings both before & after allowing it to sit for 18/24 hours.

I’ll let you know what readings are as I’m now curious myself :).

Thanks again for the replies. Greatly appreciate it!
any time ,that makes sense now hahahah im like what the hell lol,have you by chance checked what the ph of your rain water is?
when i lived in the city i use to catch mine all the time,well kept having issues with a couple grows ,so like most i just went back to square one and reevaluate every thing i did,well same shit,but only thing i didnt do was check the ph of water,checked the ph and it was 8,8 out of the sky in a nasty ass city,im like how can it be,well my dumb ass didnt take i consideration the new road they were putting in behind my house ,and the lime they used to harden the soil for concrete was the culprit.
so that said and found i started using the ro water from a machine and issue solved other than i couldnt afford to bye damn water all the time,so i diluted the ro water with my tap water and had no more issues hahah
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

12,306
438
Oldskol,

Apparently I didn’t know my water as well (pun intended) as I thought 🤦🏻‍♂️.


Test
2 gallons in food grade 5 gallon bucket.
Nutes were according to AN feeding chart at rate of
Grow-2ml per liter
Micro-4ml per
Bloom-6ml per


Straight tap

PH - 7.91
PPM - 260
EC - 532

Directly after nutes

PH - 6.85
PPM - 984
EC - 1947

I’ll retest before feeding time tomorrow & let you know what readings are @ that point.

Opinion on levels after nutes we’re added?
ok that threw me,ppm 260 ec 532,im like what cant be,that be .532 which is around 250ppm is 0.5 hahah
dont you know stoners be like brain dead mate,making me think hahahahah
but see how it flux 7.91 then 6.85 it is or was my understanding the ph correct was supose to automatically fix the ph,guess not.
so i suggest each time mixing your stuff and checking it.
so 750 is a good number were your plants are at,how much do you feed each time?
i would make 1 gal and keep track of how many mil of each you use,instead of using ph down ,find which one drops your ph instead,i mean with my last run i used that moorbloom 0-10-10 from home depot for my ph down and upside to that was my [plants were in flower ,so the p-k was what the plant required right,so i would take 1 gal of my 7.2 ph and 325 add my feed of humbolt secrets, once i added my feed of 900ppm my ph would be almost 8,so i added enough of the 0-10-10 to drop ph back to 6.5,well doing that also drops the ppm right,so next time i feed i would add the humbolt secret feed to around 1200 ppm and then drop my ph with the 0-10-10 and have the 900ppm and the 6.5 ph,so best of both worlds,got the nitrogen from the humbolt and most the p and k was coming from the 0-10-10,you dig what i was doing there?
 
RR1

RR1

227
63
Thanks for the reply RR! The gnats have been a source of frustration as other than the ph issue early into flower I always wait for promix to completely dry out. I also make sure to keep top of soil turned over so it drys faster. I’ve got sticky pads & have tried the diotmacous earth yet the little things won’t completely go away. Any other suggestions to combating them?

Mites.. have been checking daily & haven’t seen any at this point. 🤞🏻 It stays that way.
Thanks again RR, really appreciate the help.
I called my old pal hippie joe, he said 1 part 3% hydrogen peroxide, 3 parts water. Spray the surface of your soil every other day for a few days. He said it will foam a bit. He also said it kills the gnat larvae.
It should work, Joe's a smart old fart.
RR1
 
Ollieboy

Ollieboy

37
18
any time ,that makes sense now hahahah im like what the hell lol,have you by chance checked what the ph of your rain water is?
when i lived in the city i use to catch mine all the time,well kept having issues with a couple grows ,so like most i just went back to square one and reevaluate every thing i did,well same shit,but only thing i didnt do was check the ph of water,checked the ph and it was 8,8 out of the sky in a nasty ass city,im like how can it be,well my dumb ass didnt take i consideration the new road they were putting in behind my house ,and the lime they used to harden the soil for concrete was the culprit.
so that said and found i started using the ro water from a machine and issue solved other than i couldnt afford to bye damn water all the time,so i diluted the ro water with my tap water and had no more issues hahah

Never checked rain water ph. Only issues I had was a late start & some nitrogen toxicity which was clearly operator error. I’ll definitely check it next yr & see where it’s at.
 
Ollieboy

Ollieboy

37
18
ok that threw me,ppm 260 ec 532,im like what cant be,that be .532 which is around 250ppm is 0.5 hahah
dont you know stoners be like brain dead mate,making me think hahahahah
but see how it flux 7.91 then 6.85 it is or was my understanding the ph correct was supose to automatically fix the ph,guess not.
so i suggest each time mixing your stuff and checking it.
so 750 is a good number were your plants are at,how much do you feed each time?
i would make 1 gal and keep track of how many mil of each you use,instead of using ph down ,find which one drops your ph instead,i mean with my last run i used that moorbloom 0-10-10 from home depot for my ph down and upside to that was my [plants were in flower ,so the p-k was what the plant required right,so i would take 1 gal of my 7.2 ph and 325 add my feed of humbolt secrets, once i added my feed of 900ppm my ph would be almost 8,so i added enough of the 0-10-10 to drop ph back to 6.5,well doing that also drops the ppm right,so next time i feed i would add the humbolt secret feed to around 1200 ppm and then drop my ph with the 0-10-10 and have the 900ppm and the 6.5 ph,so best of both worlds,got the nitrogen from the humbolt and most the p and k was coming from the 0-10-10,you dig what i was doing there?


So you’d figure out which of the 3 part is responsible for adjusting the ph down & add more till I’m in optimal range?
 
Ollieboy

Ollieboy

37
18
I called my old pal hippie joe, he said 1 part 3% hydrogen peroxide, 3 parts water. Spray the surface of your soil every other day for a few days. He said it will foam a bit. He also said it kills the gnat larvae.
It should work, Joe's a smart old fart.
RR1


Awesome! Thanks RR! I’ll definitely give that a try. Appreciate you following up.
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

12,306
438
So you’d figure out which of the 3 part is responsible for adjusting the ph down & add more till I’m in optimal range?
which one was raising ph,i would use less of and use more of the others to get my ppm right
soil works in mysterious ways mate,there is a lot to be said for proper ph,the ph is what makes the soil uptake proper
 
Ollieboy

Ollieboy

37
18
which one was raising ph,i would use less of and use more of the others to get my ppm right
soil works in mysterious ways mate,there is a lot to be said for proper ph,the ph is what makes the soil uptake proper


Sorry for the delayed reply. Hit a nice buck Friday night & have been busy tracking & ultimately drowning my sorrows.

So after just over 24hrs there was minimal change in the #’s
ph went from 6.85 to 6.9
Ppm went from 1080 to 1123

I’ll be doing a test here either today (wife’s chore list dependent) or tomorrow to figure out how each of the 3 parts adjust the water. Once I get that figured out I’ll make the adjustments as you recommend.

Can’t thank you enough oldskol! You’ve been an immense help! I tried following but when I click on your profile it says you limit people who can view.

Anyway thanks again for all the help & being patient with me. Have a good rest of the weekend.
 

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