Fishiesmallz
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I really don't think they did, I'm thinking you had either a heat differential or maybe a humidity issue which caused some kind of nutrient thing. CFLs don't have the radiant energy to photosaturate a fern, much less a pot plant. When you bleach chloroplasts, the growing tips will turn sort of faded white right nearest the light. It won't be even close to yellow, and it won't be all over the plant.@ 1971
The thing is that it did become photo-saturated but i also had it on 24/0...
...whole plant yellowing. It almost immediately stopped as I pulled the lights 2 more inches away and set it on 22/0 and have since been making sure it is slowly tapered down so that no more stress was brought upon it while getting it ready and stabilized for flowering.
Oh yeah, suuuure. Wink wink, nudge nudge.A few more things. This is not MY plant. It is a friends plant. I know most people say this but it's actually true.
Flourescents produce more BTUs/watt than HIDs. Its a fact, usually by about .5 BTU/watt, more if you use a remote ballast and keep it outside of the growth chamber. They're just generally used in 25 watt increments or so, instead of 2 and 4 hundred watt increments, so its a different ballgame and it seems like they produce less.I actually don't feel like tossing the money to buy and my buddy doesnt want to have the whole heat issue with using an hps.
Flos can dial in on the action spectrum a lot more precisely, its true. However, they don't have nearly the radiant energy, and therefore the penetrating power of HIDs. Also, a 400 can be had for about 80 bucks if you shop around, less if you craigslist a used one or something. You're probably spending at least that much on all those fancy flos.The lights were picked based on the intensity of the wavelengths optimal for cannabis growth.
Is there an intake somewhere bringing in fresh C02?There is a small fan for air circulation on at almost all times.The industrial fan is for root and stalk strengthening.
You're doing great. Lumens are a photopic spectrum, which is more or less the exact opposite of the action spectrum for photosynthesis.So now my question is why shy away from lumen output? isn't that the measure of the intensity of the lights? coupled with the correct wavelengths I figured I was doin alright with that thought process.
Think of it this way. If I put you in a room positively drenched in photons of ultraviolet light, you still couldn't see a damn thing. The same principle follows for plants except they 'see' different spectrums. Incandescent lights have, what would seem to be, amazing lumen per watt ratios. If you put a plant under 24 hours of incandescent light, it might as well be 24 hours of night. The reason is that lumens aren't the number of photons, its perceived brightness to the human eye, which is most sensitive to the color green. You can take the same photon flux, which is the number of photons reaching a spot, make the light source more green, and the lumens will increase. Chlorophyll will absorb most anything but green because they are green. They are green because they reflect green, and therefore do not absorb green.So lets say my 80 Watt cfl is dialed into almost exactly the optimum photosynthetical light spectrum. IF it had no lumen output at all wouldnt that mean no light would be present? I thought lumens were in essence the measure of the amount of photons being transmitted by said diode or filament or whatever.
I really couldn't tell you for sure, I haven't really followed LED technology. I suspect you'd do better with LEDs than with flos, but I seriously doubt you'd beat an HID per watt.Then an 180 watt custom LED panel above a single plant without a canopy would also in this particular setup in theory produce an almost equal if not equal yield that an HPS would given that the LED would have (assuming I have a badass LED panel) give off a very large amount of PAR for the wattage used?
Real quick, that's still a canopy, your just keeping it even, which is good.and because of the no canopy training would be able to hit almost every bit of the plant fairly equally.
Bothare we talking about penetrating through the leaves or more so penetrating through the buds as they form?
Absolutely, a 400w HPS will slay 350w of any flos. Make sure to get a good horticultural bulb, they can be twice as good as a shitty warehouse sodium. I'd recommend Plantastars for the 400 watt range.So I was wondering if instead of putting 250 more watts of customish cfls over it. Although I know you said "If a person is only using like 100 watts, then its a pretty insignificant difference to switch to HIDs, especially since you can't really get good horticultural lights until you get to 400 watts." but if im already using 152 watts with more than average PAR than the normal run off the mill bullshit bulbs from the depot or lowes or wherever, then would it still be a good idea to get a low wattage HPS as the main over head and then supplement with the cfls that are already there?
Inductions are just glorified flos.Or maybe I could go with a reputable induction bulb?
Patient nothing, I'm happy to help :) Keep it up!Thank you for being patient with me. I'm trying to soak up as much knowledge as possible.
What the hell is the point of growing dope if you can't smoke it and spew bizarre, nonsensical theories? O_oThere is way not enough plant for all the theory being tossed around up in here imho, lol.
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