Glow said:

ratio
[ˈreɪʃɪəʊ]
NOUN

1. the quantitative relation between two amounts showing the number of times one value contains or is contained within the other.

Same in chemistry my man.. I think what is happening here is people don't quite understand what a ratio is... We've also gone over that it would be unwise for a manufacturer to reduce the ratio downwards (which is often done in chemistry) and instead remain with the percentages (reducing down would make a fertilizer appear less concentrated than it actually was)

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I understand, i got that info from some web site (which i forget) but it wasn't a random quote from some guy named eddie, it was a scientific journal of some sort. anyway i am beating this subject to death. and do not want to erk you any further. I can tell you know what you are talking about...so i will refrain from comment on this subject any more. cheers

JWM2 said:

Just a thought. No worries.

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Bannacis said:

it is a % ratio... a 3-3-3 % ratio is half of 6-6-6
% ratio...from what i read, i didn't make it up.

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NPK it self is not a ratio. It's a measurement. That is why 3-3-3- is different than 6-6-6. Pretty simple really

What Do the Numbers on Fertilizer Mean? The three numbers on fertilizer represents the value of the three macro-nutrients used by plants. These macro-nutrients are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) or NPK for short. The higher the number, the more concentrated the nutrient is in the fertilizer. For example, numbers on fertilizer listed as 20-5-5 has four times more nitrogen in it than phosphorus and potassium. A 20-20-20 fertilizer has twice as much concentration of all three nutrients than 10-10-10. The fertilizer numbers can be used to calculate how much of a fertilizer needs to be applied to equal 1 pound of the nutrient you are trying to add to the soil. So if the numbers on the fertilizer are 10-10-10, you can divide 100 by 10 and this will tell you that you need 10 pounds of the fertilizer to add 1 pound of the nutrient to the soil. If the fertilizer numbers were 20-20-20, you divide 100 by 20 and you know that it will take 5 pounds of the fertilizer to add 1 pound of the nutrient to the soil. A fertilizer that contains only one macro-nutrient will have “0” in the other values. For example, if a fertilizer is 10-0-0, then it only contains nitrogen. These fertilizer numbers, also called NPK values, should appear on any fertilizer you purchase, whether it is an organic fertilizer or a chemical fertilizer.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Fertilizer Numbers – What Is NPK

Read up, see why NPK is not a ratio, it's a value. Learn why 3-3-3 is not the same as 6-6-6. If NPK was a ratio, it wouldn't matter if the NPK was 3-3-3 or 6-6-6. Learn why this does matter. The answer is right in front of you guys.

You can lead a horse to water.......

its both a ratio and a value @Bulldog420 lol. and it can be changed if you dont mix according to instructions :banghead:

you can teach a new dog old tricks but ........:happy:

Bulldog420 said:

NPK it self is not a ratio. It's a measurement. That is why 3-3-3- is different than 6-6-6. Pretty simple really

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Sorry i should of proof read my post, 3-3-3 is a % by volume...3%-3%-3% is half of 6%-6%-6% that's a two to one ratio. But you are correct that it is a measurement of how much of each (npk) is in the product container.

Bulldog420 said:

Are you guys serious?

Nobody answered why NPK values don't get reduced down.......

why isn't 1-2-3 the same as 2-4-6

Anybody know the answer?

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I'm late to the party but not going to catch up. Feed, Feed Flush (with feeding at 70%) was a transformation in spectacular ways. Less is more and adding Verde or equivalent during veg and early flower prevents yellowing and stress later. I was using Emerald Harvest... switching now to Jacks and a much cheaper and effective regime to justify nute costs, also flushing coco with pond cleaning enzymes to reuse with great results. Control of heat, humidity, PH, watering schedule, feeding, attentiveness and precise pruning at key points creates magic. However, being a magician is an elusive skill to master. I'm still working on it... and I cant even figure out how to get rid of the italics - LOL! If there are deficiencies, you can identify them, if you overdue it... its harder to pull back. Its also strain related. Keep em cool at night (60's low 70's) , around 76 during the day if possible. And I'm just speaking from personal experience somewhere you aren't, take it with a grain and good luck!

Take care,

MT

Bannacis said:

Sorry i should of proof read my post, 3-3-3 is a % by volume...3%-3%-3% is half of 6%-6%-6% that's a two to one ratio. But you are correct that it is a measurement of how much of each (npk) is in the product container.

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Exactly. You da man!

In relation to flushing most cultivators flush - really need to to clean the plants of salts, ect unless you grow organic at any rate I always clean the roots (flush) after late bloom in week 8-9 for 1-2 weeks; In relation to n-p-k amounts depends, agree !!

Bumping an old thread that I'm grateful for. I was foodoo, a closed minded a*hole saying I liked flushing for the colors in the start of this thread but luckily it didn't take me long to open up and within a few posts later stop flushing. I never flushed again after that and now I'm in living organic no till soil that would never ever ever get flushed in a million years.

i bump this
flushing is a plague that still contaminates a lot of growers

the same goes with hydroponics
feed the right amount during the grow and keep the plant healthy until chop

give pk booster until the last day to get that extra white ash

I had the wrong belief that white ash meant clean of nutrients
actually its not the case

its well known among cigars connoisseurs that ash color depends on soil richness, and that the richest soils produce the whitest ashes

how i see it:

black ash: contaminated; overfertilized bud
grey ash: mid quality product, flowers poor in minerals/ active principles
white ash: dank, rich in terpenes and minerals