02trueblue
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Thanks for this I shall looks through of properly tomorrow,
I not sure what ml a litre of what I'm using I know in use 2.5ml cannyzm I didn't use to add it at start, I use to just give a&b then add Cannyzm 1st week flower, this time with thse I added cannyzm at 2.5ml a litre that 0.2e.c
Then I'd add a&b at 0.6e.c with no calmag.
I might cut the cannzym TMZ and so what you both said flush with calmag then feed with calmag and feed but I'm gonna just give a&b not the cannyzm I noticed u use 10ml a litre of it, not sure if its really needed? Or would the a&b be to low on p&k. I added cannyzm this time round at start to see if that made any difference but still got same problem yellowing so on. So hopefully in calmag, I know my water is soft water, but also canna contains a bit calmag I think but maybe not enough think they expect you to have a water e.c of 0.4 before adding their feeds
Ye that makes sence dont it, i have read same thing before , and that why about flower 1st week they really get better must be because their on higher feed and the cal in canna is enough then.* 10ml/gal (not liter)... the extra P and K balance out the NPK ratio from the A + B.. most people that have problems with Canna don't use the Cannazym.. but I feel it is important. You can definitely grow without it, though. It doesn't add much to your total PPM
Canna nutrients have enough Cal/Mag once you reach around 700ppm of the base nutrients. So if you're sitting around 600 like you should be, then you'll need a little bit of Cal/Mag to keep everything happy. That 600ppm is .8EC on a 500 scale
I do keep track all written down , i m always mixing diffence size mixes some 10litre some 1litre mix for so not sure of it alp off tip of my head,
I use to add rhiztonic at beginning but makes my ph go to to much so asd that later on I also use it as oh up when needed, I do sometimes ass different root make that don't make my pH go up.
I think I'm adding 2ml a&b and 2.5 ml cannyzm a litre = 0.8e.c I think
I also do most you said above wait few mins for pH to adjust I mid my solution about with a jug between adding feed and pH so on
Iv also got 4 I flower 5th week in, being tip drip fed on rhizo drain to wqst system fed twice a day to run off no rhiztonic well not till last few days, and a water butt thats always filled with 40-50 litres if feed , its at 1.6 at moment , never given them calmag, just a&b & cannyzm at 2.5ml a litre , the cannyzm was only added at flowed, they where on pk off now.
These look nice and good they did look like my once I'm now having problems with, last few grows always look bad at start , iv teier all sorts top feed bottom feed feed flush high feed low feed different fed calmag no calmag, I was over watering , but got feeling that was from maybe lock out getting better. But always the starts its a fight, sometime they die,
Been hell lastvfew months lol, getting better can't quite pinpoint where in going wrong
Ye that makes sence dont it, i have read same thing before , and that why about flower 1st week they really get better must be because their on higher feed and the cal in canna is enough then.
May sound crazy lol
But since doing a flush earlier with calmag like THCmonster said
The roos have grown out the bottom of the post more
Ye crazy, socially roots they can grow so quick init..Sounds like you're playing the coco game and figuring it all out! You learn by experimenting.. "this works, do this!" "this doesn't work, don't do this again" type of mentality. Rock on.
How often are you calibrating your pH meter?
Maybe that extra feed and care/attention during flowering gives them what they're looking for!
It's crazy how the plants are so alive, huh? They literally go searching for that water. After draining my runoff, somtimes i'll add like a millimeter of fresh nutrients back into the saucers. The roots reach out of the pot and grow into the extra moisture
Nice mate looking good ain't they, mine in flower now looks healthy nice green but don't quite look 100% right seem be missing some green shade on the leaves hard to explain lolJust a couple shots from my current cycle... day 38 of 12/12 so far. Feel free to ask any questions! Here to help, coco is an adventure to figure out. But once you do it’s 100% worth it!! Canna nutrients are the bomb
Ye crazy, socially roots they can grow so quick init..
Ow yes iv done some experimenting since using coco and changing to different nutrients..
I was trying all sorts and ruling stuff out then.
Since having problems with coco I been calibrating often was 2-3 times a week just to make sure,
In use to bottom feed with soil and auto pot later on in veg,
then tried with coco few times bottom feeding I was hoping to auto pot coco but reading and trying top feed to east sound the best way to prevent problems so been going down that root.
I know what you mean just a tad in the tray roots tips don't seem to dry off as easy
Nice mate looking good ain't they, mine in flower now looks healthy nice green but don't quite look 100% right seem be missing some green shade on the leaves hard to explain lol
Mine in flower don't have any burnt tips like your leaves , and your leaves are quite dark green , mind are not quite as dark green, so maybe they can take more feed, but they seem good , i been taking my feed e.c a but lower last few grows as been fighting problems so could rule out over feeding. Even know I just did it on my new ones lol
That's for the videos, I can never upload them don't work for me .I wanted to show you this video to show why i dont think 700ppm is to high for your plants, I actually feed my clones 500-600 ppms (once fully rooted)
Now in the video I said you want to bump up the ppms if the run off comes out the same (this is not the case for clones). This was just a demonstration on judging ppm run of for your plants!
I had to water the clone outside the room on the cabinet to make it easier, sorry for the choppy film work.
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Nice roots their mate,You cant really over water with coco... I feel like your thinking of it as dirt too much, try to always make sure you are doing run off. Coco doesnt hold on to nutrients so they will build up fast.
If you have perlite with coco then you have plenty of aeration... For future reference never transplant a plant when its stressed, and in coco especially using canna with cannazyme you dont need to repot until your basically root bound
Top photo is my grow clones when I transplant, and the bottom photo is the commerical grow 3gal going to 5gal pot.
They will dry out on you much faster when they get almost root bound, but they will also feed more and grow roots faster because they have that dry down period in between, but until the roots get extensive my plants stay pretty moist the whole way through! And if they arent drying out fast enough you need to increase air flow or heat in the room!
Feed until run off EVERYTIME!
Dont worry too much about over feeding them in coco because you can do an immediate flush!
1) Keep up with the 150-200ppm of cal mag
2) Always water until there is run off
3) if they look lime green instead of a solid green or dark green then feed them harder! Both only with your base nutrients (coco a&b), nothing else!
4)water everyday to at least every other day (but personally i would do everyday)
5) only transplant once semi/fully root bound in the pot!
In the beginning you dont have a big root structure but the moment it starts expanding your pots will dry out even 24hrs because the roots are consuming that much!
ABC lol ;)Sounds good. Your starting to understand it. Just keep up with it and your plants will get there!
Dont transplant them from the pots they are in until they are damn near root bound! Trust me you will thank me for it!
Also always use the cannazyme too... Enzymes are extremely important and essential to the Canna nutrient line!
At my store we call it the ABCs of CANNA
cause you have COCO A (A)
Then you have COCO B. (B)
Then you have cannzyme (C)
You add them everytime and from start to finish!
Expect for flush
Part time work at a Hydroponic storeABC lol ;)
What do you do for a living grown weed?
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