Is this fading? And if so should I pk boost now.

[Migrower]

So the plant that I’m showing you is my blue dream and gorilla glue cross. It is fading a lot faster so it seems than my chaos Kush are my regular gorilla glue number four that is right next to it. Although some of the plant seems to be fading a lot faster than the rest. I was wondering if this was due to just write but I see no bleaching on my flowers. If it is fading would now be the time to use my dry cool bloom?I’m using a drain to waste system. General hydroponics flora nova, practically the whole line. The plan currently is on day 40 Of flower. The other strains next to it seem to be pushing on fairly green still any information or feedback would be greatly appreciated and if you need anymore information from me to help give me feedback I will greatly provided thank you to everybody in advance. I put up a ton of pics so you could try to get a good feel. You can see the others are still very green. I know I need a seeing glass. I’m getting. And yes they are thirsty about to give em a drink but trying to get feedback first so if needed I can try the koolbloom dry.

 

[az2000]

I think they're hungry (although sometimes overfeeding can look like that when salts buildup and cause lockout in the soil). You had another thread. I forgot what what all was going on there.

It's typical for people to increase PK too much in flower, and cause N def. I think that's what I'm seeing. But, I think I also see P def (some purple on the leaves). Together, I think that would mean they're overall hungry. If you can post a link to your other thread it might help explain what's going on.

 

[Migrower]

That was for My babies in veg. And all the girls in flower are being fed well I think and we’re in very hot soil to begin with. It is a different strain than the other 3 there. I’ll give you all the feeding info in a bit. But I believe there last feed was at 830 ppm. They are in fox farm amended soil. It was too hot. The reason for try to control everything this go by going soilless with the new run we were speaking of in other thread.

 

[az2000]

But I believe there last feed was at 830 ppm. They are in fox farm amended soil. It was too hot.

Have you measured your runoff PPMs? (I forget if we talked about that in your previous thread.). It's informative for my soil and nutes.

If you're confident you're feeding enough (and it sounds like you are), I would cut back, mix twice the volume (for 1/2 strength) and get a lot of runoff to help flush unused nutrients (but, your runoff PPMs would suggest if this would. I think it would. It does for me.).

You could do that with some of the plants. Change the NPK ratio to be higher N for some of the plants. Give a PK boost to some of the plants. (I.e., don't put all your eggs in one basket. See how each thing works.).

Maybe someone else has a more definite opinion about what the problem is.

I'd like to know the NPK ratio of what you last fed. Are you doing a "bloom" mixture with higher PK? If so, maybe it's too much. New growers tend to do that a lot (I've forgotten if you're new or not.).

 

[Migrower]

Yes I’m new to growing cannabis. Not new to horticulture as a core and a plants in general. I’ve checked my runoff but not recently. Everything was fine till I noticed slow fading happening on my one plant. I’ll check my runoff on my next water to see where that is at and also my next feed. I fed today at 870 ppm (floranova bloom.75ml/g,calmag1 ml/g,diamond nectar humic acid1.25ml/g,floral nectar sugars1.25ml/g, floralicious plus.15ml/g,silica1ml/g,koolbloom liquid.75ml/g) that’s my current reg. And like I said very hot soil that I had a plant or two with some tox issues in veg. Gots plenty of earthworm castings amended and extra humus and compost along with peat n perlite. The soil and feed should be good. I’m really thinking it’s just starting to fade on day 40 if you count the 36 hours dark before flip 42 I guess. The more I look at it . It appears to be slowing fading. But I could be wrong.

 

[az2000]

floranova bloom. ... The soil and feed should be good. I’m really thinking it’s just starting to fade on day 40 if you count the 36 hours dark before flip 42 I guess. The more I look at it . It appears to be slowing fading. But I could be wrong.

Different people have different expectations for end-of-flower fade (finishing, ripening, etc). That's more than I like to see. Floranova Bloom is an NPK ratio 1-2-1.8. I would supplement with fish emulsion (for more N) if the runoff PPMs didn't show overfeeding. (But, if you're close to harvesting, maybe I wouldn't).

They look hungry to me. But, I can't tell if it's from too much PK (too soon). Or, salt buildup starting to cause lockout.

It would be interesting to know what your runoff ppms are (with about 10% runoff.).

 

[morningdewd]

I know you said thirsty but they looked like at some point they were overwatered

 

[Migrower]

I know you said thirsty but they looked like at some point they were overwatered

. It would be hard to overwater. They are five month old plants in 20g fabric pots with very well established roots. I’ll check my runoff on my next feed. I’m weeks away from harvest so I don’t know if I want to up my N right now. I can’t even find a blue dream x GG#4 cross on seedfinder or elsewhere so maybe the guy crossed them himself or he lied. Then I could see the flowering schedule. I’m almost done with week six. But fish emulsion would be immediately available to get plant. Any other N only base food you can think of for cannabis. I would think not too hot and is immediately available.

 

[Migrower]

I’ve been looking for seeds for the past two weeks. Any suggestions.

 

[Jimster]

Whan your plant is finishing it's life cycle, you will often see yellowing leaves, especially in Sativa dominant strains. Since you are well into flowering, could this be a sign that things are finished?

 

[az2000]

fish emulsion would be immediately available to get plant. Any other N only base food you can think of for cannabis.

I use blood meal, bat guano (some is high-N, some is high-P). But, I use fish emulsion the most.

If you've been feeding the Flora Nova Bloom bottle by itself (without mixing it with the Veg bottle) for awhile, I think 1-2-1.8 is too high P. I don't each that ratio until the end of flower. I do 1-1.2-1.7 in early flower. 1-1.5-1.7 in mid flower. And then work my way up to 1-2-1.8 toward the end. (I might do 1-3-2 a couple times as a "booster" -- but, I don't know if it does anything). That keeps my plants fairly nourished till the end.

Some people like to starve them. I don't know if one way's better than the other. I like my plants to look healthy when I harvest.

I think I gave you the link to my spreadsheet. You can figure out how much fish emulsion to add to what you're presently feeding (to get a 1-1-1 ratio). Or, to see how the PPMs rise; experiment lowering the FN Bloom amount while raising the fish emulsion (to keep the PPMs the same, but change the ratio.). I like to keep an eye on those numbers so I know what I'm doing (be able to recreate it in the future; avoid burning).

 

[Migrower]

Whan your plant is finishing it's life cycle, you will often see yellowing leaves, especially in Sativa dominant strains. Since you are well into flowering, could this be a sign that things are finished?

I ordered a jewelers loupe today it’ll be Friday. I’ll be able to have a look. See if I can see the trichomes in all three stages.

 

[Migrower]

And the other thing is it only seems to be effecting the leaves directly under the light in the middle of the plant. The plant has nice green leaves off to the sides that are not directly under the light. And all my plants are getting fed the same and this is the only one trying to show and tell me something .

 

[az2000]

And the other thing is it only seems to be effecting the leaves directly under the light in the middle of the plant. The plant has nice green leaves off to the sides that are not directly under the light. And all my plants are getting fed the same and this is the only one trying to show and tell me something .

Stronger light can cause a plant to use more nutrients.

The Flora Nova feeding schedule says to use Bloom entirely after transition. I don't know if you did that. But, IMO that's too soon. (When I used Flora series 3-part with the "useless" schedule, it didn't reach an NPK ratio of 1-2-2 until the 4th to 5th week of flower.). Starting 1-2-1.8 at transition is a long time with reducing N that much.

 

[Migrower]

Stronger light can cause a plant to use more nutrients.

The Flora Nova feeding schedule says to use Bloom entirely after transition. I don't know if you did that. But, IMO that's too soon. (When I used Flora series 3-part with the "useless" schedule, it didn't reach an NPK ratio of 1-2-2 until the 4th to 5th week of flower.). Starting 1-2-1.8 at transition is a long time with reducing N that much.

And that is exactly what I did. I’m grabbing some fish emulsion At the local hydro shop and see if that helps her. Thanks bro!!

 

[Migrower]

And with the loupe I should be looking for about 10% amber 60% cloudy 30% clear. I’ve been up on reading the effects of each color of the trichomes phase and the farther you let your plant go the more couchlock effect your gonna feel. (Amber trichomes) So to truly get a well rounded feeling for the essence of each strain that’s about the ratio in trichomes you look for. Is this on par with what the some of the more experienced growers out there have noticed. I’d like to correctly harvest. So I can truly know what the strain is about.

 

[Jmaes Mabley]

Plants need NITROGEN during the complete process, and require MORE N in flowering, than they do in veg. ALOT more, and they continue to use it until the very end, albiet its all in the correct ratio. If a plant is not force fed, it wont have excess fertilizer stored in it, because it will use only what it needs. Force feed them, and they become more leafy, often stunted, which is opposite of what you would expect, and will have excess nitrates ect. NItrates are also not stored in the Stigmas/Trichomes ect. Only leaves, and stems, and its hard to 100% trim all leaf/stem.

The main thing is to get the Proper ratio of NPK, micros, incl Calcium, and Magnesium.

The correct ration for Marijuana is 19.5-20-39. Weed needs 2x MORE Potassium vs Nitrogen. And for an 8 weeks flowering strain, the Phosphorus, and Potassium need a boost in weeks 3-4, along with a slowly increasing Magnesium/Calcium/Sulfur, of which Epsom Salts has Sulfur, and I am not experienced in the nutrients you are using, though I have heard of them, and know who they are.

I use 0-52-34..aka Monopotassium Phosphate for boost in weeks 3-4, and then in weeks 5-6 I boost Magnesium/Sulfur/Epsom Salts. Weeks 7-8 are cut back only slightly.

I use chemicals, ( Chem Gro ) but its easy enough to do organically by mixing fertilizers for proper ratios.

 

[Jmaes Mabley]

Chem Gro also NEVER cuts the Nitrogen back to 1-2-2 ratio. They used to have the feeding schedule, but I cant find it now. But they never cut the Nitrogen, without cutting everything else back.
Nitrogen to a Plant, is the same thing as Protein to a Human.
Its 100% Illogical to starve a plant of Protein, when Flowering is when the plant grows the most, so it Logically needs protein for growth, and repair, just like a human.

When Humans eat Protein, its turned into Nitrogen in the body. That's why Bodybuilders, and all athletes want to stay in Positive Nitrogen Balance, or you will start to use your own Lean Muscle Mass for Energy. Nobody wants to Cannibalize themselves right??? This is called Negative Nitrogen Retention.
The plant skips eating the protein stage, and eats already broken down atoms.

 

[az2000]

The correct ration for Marijuana is 19.5-20-39. Weed needs 2x MORE Potassium vs Nitrogen.

I agree about the potassium. I mix my nutients to be 1.7 to 1.8x more K through the entire grow.

I'm still up in the air about whether N & P should be static through the grow. I boost N in veg. I use about 1.2-1-1.7 to 2-1-1.7. In transition I do 1-1-1.7. In flower I slowly increase P, ending around 1-2-1.8.

I've grown 1-1-1 all the way though. And 1-1-1.2 (which is MiracleGro Tomato) and 1-1-1.8 (my own mix, using potassium silicate in veg, and potassium sulfate in flower)). I can't say I noticed a difference between this and the boosted veg/bloom ratios. But, I do think higher K all the way through helps.

When I started thinking in terms of *ratios* it was a gamechanger. Instead of following "schedules" (not a swipe at the OP. Everyone does it. I did it.) I just trusted what the schedule said. I had no idea what was actually being fed to the plant. I never normalized NPK labels ( 5-3-4; 4-3-2; 2-4-2. ) into ratios. I had an idea "more this, less that." I didn't think about it much.

But, when I started translating those numbers into ratios (1.3-1-1.1; 2-1.5-1; 1-2-1), it was like the Esperanza of nutrients. Suddenly everyone was talking the same language. I made a spreadsheet to mix different products together to get custom ratios (or see what multi-bottle "lineups" produced throughout their schedule). For me, that was a "next level" moment.

 

[Jmaes Mabley]

Chem Gro has been making Plant Specific fertilizer since the 60s, and have done tissue analysis to determine what the plant likes, though they also say some plants/marijuana, also likes extra Iron.
But Im going to believe people who have been making fert/plant specific for over 50 years. Ive also been growing since 1972, and IMHO the Myth ofstopping Nitrogen in flowering started when in the 80s people were giving heavy doses of ammonium Nitrate that inhibited/stopped flowering, so people concluded Nitrogen was bad in flowering, which it is if there's to much. But to much of anything is bad, and causes an imbalance.