Possibly, but it could also be overfeeding. What's the relative humidity in the tent, and can you get natural light or white light photos?

Seamaiden said:

Possibly, but it could also be overfeeding. What's the relative humidity in the tent, and can you get natural light or white light photos?

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It could be overfeeding actually the lower leaves have mute burn. Was giving it the same dose as the bigger plants and it's obviously can't absorb that much yet. My humidity ranges from 50 to 60. Il get some pics

dan2980 said:

It could be overfeeding actually the lower leaves have mute burn. Was giving it the same dose as the bigger plants and it's obviously can't absorb that much yet. My humidity ranges from 50 to 60. Il get some pics

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Seamaiden said:

Possibly, but it could also be overfeeding. What's the relative humidity in the tent, and can you get natural light or white light photos?

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Do think it will recover. It won't harm the other plants will it? Or should I bin it.

Your humidity need to be 45 or under

I'd drop those A.N. nutes like a bad habit. I bought some ph perfect once, got it home, mixed up a batch, checked the ph and it was like 3.2, brought it straight back to the store.

I sed all that to say this....it might be a ph problem.

dan2980 said:

Do think it will recover. It won't harm the other plants will it? Or should I bin it.

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Sorry dan, I've gotten myself pretty sick with kidney stones and they haven't been able to remove them. Hopefully tomorrow! It's been a couple of weeks, what did you end up doing? I think you could nurse it along, especially if you make pH adjustments more to their preference, up or down it tends to be an individual thing. Due to my being sick, I've forgotten most everything else without going back and reading.

For the record I've used the line both sensi and coco specific. The nutrients work well but first don't go by the feeding schedule and second do not rely on the ph perfect part of the name. Adjust your ph as you would with normal nutrients. They are not ph perfect. So I half agree with gnome. I think the nutrients themselves work very well but if you are looking for them to actually be ph perfect u r out of luck. Good luck and @Seamaiden that really sux. Hope you pass the dam stones.

Seamaiden said:

Sorry dan, I've gotten myself pretty sick with kidney stones and they haven't been able to remove them. Hopefully tomorrow! It's been a couple of weeks, what did you end up doing? I think you could nurse it along, especially if you make pH adjustments more to their preference, up or down it tends to be an individual thing. Due to my being sick, I've forgotten most everything else without going back and reading.

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I hope these stones of yours get sorted out quickly. Get well soon Seamaiden xx

^^ just had a friend get over this. He ended up having to go back to the doctor 3x and havng to get more uncalcifying meds. Never seen such excrutiating pain before, and this is a hard dude

Yeah, they can really take you DOWN.

Seamaiden said:

Yeah, they can really take you DOWN.

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I never had them, but i feel if you can avoid surgery, believe it or not, you still got the best of the stones. Think only stones worse then kidney would be galstones.Hope you're feeling better and getting over that shit

Is it heat stress when the tips of all the leaves have gone yellow ???

Bigeasyboss said:

Is it heat stress when the tips of all the leaves have gone yellow ???

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That sounds like nute burn.
Heat stress usually causes curling, not color change.

Heat stress is like Taco leafs.
Your leafs edges curl (roll up )on top of themselves .
That's been my experience.
STR8

This of course is for over fertilization if you determine that temps arent your issue.

Sight and Touch: Sensory Tips on Discovering Over-Fertilization Far Earlier!
Don't wait for tip-burn before easing off the nutrients! Your plants will give you a whole host of sensory hints that you may be over-cooking things slightly. Learn to observe your plants differently, using a combination of sight and touch, to spot the signs of over-fertilization earlier before any longterm or irrevocable damage is done!
Over-fertilization occurs when we mix up a nutrient solution that is too concentrated for our plants to use efficiently and safely. The classic sign is a burnt appearance to leaf tips and margins. But when you see this you're already a fair way down over-fertilization street and the remedial process will take time and patience.

An excess of salts in the root zone causes your plants untold stress and it can take days or even weeks of flushing to try and restore the balance-lost time, momentum and vigor.

The trick is not just to look out for signs of over-fertilization, but to use your other senses too-namely touch. Also, it's important to look at different parts of the plant, as we will see below:

MID-GROWTH LEAVES






HEALTHY - Here's a photo showing a regular fed "Money Maker" tomato plant growing in coco coir substrate with three-part hydroponic nutrient at EC 2.4 (ideal). Leaves on the middle of the plant show a healthy green color.






5 DAYS OF OVER-FERTILIZATION - The same leaves have turned a darker green color. Look out for foliage feeling thicker and tougher to the touch.

10 DAYS OF OVER-FERTILIZATION - The leaves are now very dark bluish/green color. This is a classic sign that you've overdone the nutrient strength or that excess salts are collecting in the growing media. Feel the leaves too. At this stage they felt very thick and almost leathery.

UPPER LEAVES / NEWER GROWTH






HEALTHY - This is how new growth should appear with regular feeding.






5 DAYS OF OVER-FERTILIZATION - New growth leaves appears dull or somewhat matt. This is a classic reaction to a sudden jump in nutrient strength, and can be an indicator that the nutrient strength of the solution or growing media is worth investigating.






10 DAYS OF OVER-FERTILIZATION - Now the leaves are turning bluish/green.


What Happens When Things Get Really Bad?

If you fail to respond to these signs, you're soon do very serious damage to your plants. Here's what happens when you keep on using an overly concentrated nutrient solution:

Most of the upper leaves will feel quite limp and are clearly water deprived despite moist growing media and mild environmental conditions. Very high nutrient concentration around the roots has a negative impact on water uptake - hence the wilting.











And Finally … Discoloration and TIP BURN! Yikes!!







After fifteen days of over-fertilization the edges of the middle/upper leaves were starting to show some nutrient toxicity symptoms (Picture 7). It's evident in the slight discoloration around the edges of the leaves.
Two days after this, much of the discoloration turned to tip burn (Picture 8). These burnt edges were dry, crisp, and easily broke away from the leaves.

Conclusion

Don't wait for the obvious signs of over-fertilization: leaf curl and tip burn. Instead, look out for primary symptoms such as darkening in leaf color, a matt or dull appearance, paying particular attention to the green shade of the middle and upper leaves.

The sooner you act, the easier any damage will be to repair!


Here are some guidelines to leaching excess salts/nutes fro various sizes of pots.

Pots Or Containers

• 6" of water applied will reduce salts by 1/2
• 12" of water will reduce salts by 4/5
• 24" of water will reduce salts by 9/10

Benches

• Apply 1/2 to 1 gal water per sq. ft. Wait 1 hr. and repeat.
• If salts are excessive because slow release fertilizer was used improperly, repot the plants or scrape some of the slow release from the medium surface.
• If salts are excessive because of a combination of slow release fertilizer and soluble fertilizer, repot the plants.

Here's what I mean ,but only this plant out of all 6 is got this bad the others aren't like this (yet) ?????