Globel said:

I have been taking my blown butane and freezing it to -60 ish and I am noticing fall out (solids build up suspended). I filter small batch's with a Buchner funnel . I am achieving very clear results. Why would I add any additional solvents?

Click to expand...

How do you get -60? Liquid nitrogen? Most chest freezers are luckey to get -10 and - 20 where one needs to precipitate at is very hard to find on newer freezers. Cryogenic freezers are spend dee! -60 might even be getting to cold. Please tell how you get so cold.

nangonug said:

How do you get -60? Liquid nitrogen? Most chest freezers are luckey to get -10 and - 20 where one needs to precipitate at is very hard to find on newer freezers. Cryogenic freezers are spend dee! -60 might even be getting to cold. Please tell how you get so cold.

Click to expand...

Butane out of the can on its own boiling at room temp is like -32 .. If you put that in a freezer with propylene glycol and salt water you can prolly drop the temps even more.. Or even dry ice..

But it sure seems like a pain in the ass vs just buying a bottle of ever clear..

However unless your de-waxing outdoor runs imho its a waste of time.. ive dewaxed 30 grams of fan leaf oil from indoor run and only pulled just over a gram of waxes and fats ... the rest was oil .. my 2 cents :D

Instead of shooting the butane into a warmed pyrex dish (as many do), some people shoot into a dish chilled with dry ice and high proof alcohol or propylene glycol.

This is not from experience, and is just heresay... maybe somebody who knows more will chime in

Haha that is a trick using dry ice to get the temp that low wax clump then pour through a Buchner filter. This way no everclear is used. Smart man

Other sites and people I've been talking with are calling this tech 'single solvent de-waxing.'

I just wonder if at those low of temps your not also crashing out goodies along with unwanted... Someone needs to look into what temps the terps thc cb* ect crash out of the solvent at.

Im sure its possible to completely crash out all the thc into crystals if left long and cold enuff. But I have no proof to back this claim up just speculation atm.

mcpuffin said:

Other sites and people I've been talking with are calling this tech 'single solvent de-waxing.'

Click to expand...

Yes. And we should discuss ssdw here too. :)

The big horns will eventually roll through this thread and tell us why this is what the cool kids are doing, and how they're pulling it off. I assume the process is just like wavegm just said above: chill and drain through a buchner.

LittleDabbie said:

I just wonder if at those low of temps your not also crashing out goodies along with unwanted... Someone needs to look into what temps the terps thc cb* ect crash out of the solvent at.

Im sure its possible to completely crash out all the thc into crystals if left long and cold enuff. But I have no proof to back this claim up just speculation atm.

Click to expand...

From what I've gathered it seems like below -30*F you can start to freeze your butane, which seems like you would be freezing you oil. I'm no chemist, so we're going to need GW or someone else to chime in. I feel like I read somewhere GW saying at the temps that they keep their butane (lower than -30*F with dry ice and denatured alcohol), that it was necessary for them to size up some of their Terpantor lines because butane moved like sludge at such temps.

ftwendy said:

Yes. And we should discuss ssdw here too. :)

The big horns will eventually roll through this thread and tell us why this is what the cool kids are doing, and how they're pulling it off. I assume the process is just like wavegm just said above: chill and drain through a buchner.

Click to expand...

Yes, it seems to be that process; Chill and hold at such temp for waxes to fall out (upwards of 90 mins) then straining through a buchner funnel.

I personally have not done this yet and this information is from what I've gathered.

...I've seen a photo with a fella showing off a pyrex in a dry ice bath reading -34f on an ir thermometer. No comments, just a pic

No idea if this is kosher, but my intention is only to share what I've gathered... so here goes

Post #12, MidwestHighs: This tek has been around for the better part of the year, I believe FOB extractions was the first to implement it.

If one has a closed loop unit, after you have recycled most of the butane but still have left a decent amount, place your still closed collection vessel into a bucket of dryice, wait until it reads around -40 to -50 on the IR thermometer. After a bit at that temp you can open your collection vessel and either filter threw a buchner funnel or a DIY simple filter setup. Also its best to surround your filtering vessel with dry ice as well so the waxes don't redissolve in the butane as it warms. When using the buchner funnel don't hook your vacuum pump up to it to speed up the process. What one should use is a faucet aspirator with the water flowing outside not down your drain. This will create plenty of vacuum to speed up the filtering in the buchner funnel.

#14 gunnaknow: As an additional note, whether you use butane with alcohol or you use butane alone, the procedure would still be referred to in industry as solvent winterization (as opposed to dry winterization or fractionation). In certain industries, they'll typically use a mixture of solvents at the same time, so a term like single solvent winterization wouldn't really have much use in such industries. However, within the cannabis community, we typically use butane and alcohol in separate stages rather than using a mixture of solvents at the same time. It therefore could make sense to specify if it's a single solvent process or not, as a means to differentiate it from the more typical procedure that we use.

#15 midwesthighs: Ya since it's not like the traditional winterization non polar to polar solvent. Your getting the butane insanly cold so the waxes precipitate out of the solution. Think of a subzero extractor works if cold temperatures keep from dissolving many of these undesirable plant waxes whats to say cold temperatures couldn't make them precipitate out of the butane hash oil solution. I first heard about this about a year ago, but no one was giving up the secret, at the time me and jump brainwashed the idea of how it would work and well kinda figured out how it worked lol. Everyone's calling this dewaxing as to not confuse it with an ethanol winterization. Why so many people love this new method is you hold onto all your yummy lighter terpenes and flavanoids that would be lost in a traditional ethanol winterization. The results are damn fine, although I haven't been doing much extraction experiments do to current living situations. it'd be nice to see the dewaxing tek preformed then winterize that sample with ethanol to see if almost all or close to all the waxes, lipids and fats are being removed.

#17 gunnaknow: Dewaxing is certainly a suitable term to use, as solvent winterization and solvent fractionation* are methods that can be used in dewaxing. In the vegetable oil industry, they will often remove a considerable amount of saturated fat from the oil, along with the waxes, so although it's often referred to as dewaxed, it's not necessarily just the waxes that have been removed. With cannabis oleoresin, it's predominantly epicuticular wax and much less in the way of fat being removed, so dewaxing is quite an accurate term to use. *solvent fractionation is similar to solvent winterization but the temperature is adjusted more precisely, to separate individual lipid fractions.

#18 gunnaknow: 'it'd be nice to see the dewaxing tek preformed then winterize that sample with ethanol to see if almost all or close to all the waxes, lipids and fats are being removed.' -mwh

I think that that's an important point, midwest. You should in theory be able to precipitate most of the wax, providing that the temperature is low enough, for long enough but once the majority of the wax has precipitated, newly formed wax crystals take longer to grow. If they haven't had time to grow to a sufficient size, it may help to use filter papers with a very small pore size (<3µm). The flow rate would typically be alot slower but the use of a Buchner funnel would largely compensate for that. You could also use glass microfiber filters (Whatman GF/A, etc), to greatly increase the flow rate. I should mention that a relatively low cooling rate results in the formation of larger crystals, which are much easier to filter out. For that reason, it would be a good idea to slowly cool the butane tank to around -20°C in a refrigerator, before placing it in dry ice. Once it has reached it's desired temperature in dry ice, it should ideally be held at this temperature for atleast 5-6 hours, to allow the wax crystals to fully develop. It's often referred to in industry as the maturation time. It sounds like you've done a fair amount of your own research, so this is mainly to help the members here who don't know as much as yourself.

#22 gunnaknow: I can think of a few good reasons why you wouldn't want to use liquid nitrogen. N-Butane and propane have melting points of -138 °C and -188 °C respectively, so unless you're careful to remove the butane tank from the liquid nitrogen at the right point, you could end up freezing the butane solid. Another issue is that liquid nitrogen is so cold that it will cause very rapid cooling, which results in wax crystals that are very small and difficult to filter out. When the solvent is cooled at a slower rate, the level of supersaturation of the solution is limited, which allows the crystals to grow larger. Another issue would be that if you weren't careful to remove the butane tank at the right point, you'd reach the saturation point of the cannabinoids and they too would precipitate out. I hope that this helps.

#23 gunnaknow: If you're concerned that you don't have enough dry ice to give the wax crystals a 5-6 hour maturation period, then you may wish to consider the following procedure. After cooling the collection tank down to the desired temperature, add enough dry ice to a thermos to cool it down to the same temperature and then pour the butane solution from the collection tank into the thermos. The thermos will keep it at this temperature for several hours. The dense layer of butane and CO2 vapor in the head space acts like an insulating plug, so a loose fitting lid will suffice. Just remember to reduce the volume of solution in the collection tank down to an amount that will actually fit in your flask/flasks. I nearly said thermoses but it doesn't quite sound right, lol. It'll be interesting to hear how you all get on with single solvent dewaxing and if you find any additional wax upon winterizing with alcohol.

#24 slimjoint: Hope someone will chime in and provide aittle guidance before i try this. I got a 304 stainless steel beaker which i will blast into it will be sitting in a double boilerin a ethanol dry ice solution. After blasting let it chill for an hour filter out the wax through a buchner , pour the filtered solution onto pyrex and continue usual purge? Are there any additional steps i shoild take? Is it necessary to chill the buchner filter , flask? After i pour the filtered solution onto the pyrex should the pyrex be warm? Or would extremely cold butane shatter the pyrex plate due to the temperature change?

#25 Green Dot Labs: We do live plant extractions at -150c. No need to dewax anything because plant waxes never dissolve in a solvent that cold.

#27 regisphilburn1: How do you get that cold, liquid N2? Is that in a closed loop? Does THC even dissolve that low? Thats below the melting point (freezing point) of n-butane -138C so its not really making much sense to me. Yes you need to prechill your buchner, no need on final pyrex though, id keep it at outside temp, then move to warm water after a few minutes like usual.

#29 gunnaknow: Pure n-butane would freeze solid at below -140 °C, yes. However, the butane canisters that most of us use contain a mixture of hydrocarbons, including propane, iso-butane and n-butane, among others. The melting/freezing point of such a mixture will be lower than that for pure n-butane. Just as the melting point of water is lowered when it's blended with a miscible solvent with a considerably lower melting point, such as ethanol, glycerine, propylene glycol, etc. However, Green Dot may not necessarily be using butane from canisters.

He's right in the sense that the waxes shouldn't dissolve appreciably in the first place, if the butane is chilled to the desired temperature before and during extraction, rather than afterwards. However, prune has raised a good point regarding the fact that the trichome cuticles contain wax, among other things, which needs to be dissolved or ruptured in order to extract the oleoresin. If the butane is too cold to efficiently dissolve the cuticles, then the only other way for the butane to extract the oleoresin would be for the extreme temperature changes involved to somehow cause the cuticles to rupture. Materials will often experience thermal shock if the temperature change is too drastic, so it's a possibility but it seems unlikely unless he's submerging room temperature material straight into the solvent.

#30 gray wolf: Wowza! Dry ice only goes down to about -78.5C, so [green dot labs] must be using a liquid air gas. We don't get enough wax to warrant winterization, extracting with our butane supply bath chilled to -70C, using alcohol and dry ice. Wax solubility is highly reduced, but not eliminated. Leaf waxes and trichome waxes are also not the same, as the trichome waxes have both a polar and non polar side. PS: N-butane is a gel at those temperatures and we had to increase the Terpenator vent line size to 3/8" to accommodate the flow.

#32 prune: I had alway's suspected that the envelope might have evolved to be semi-permeable. Is that N-butane gelling right from the recovery vessel, or post extraction?

#33 gunnaknow: I can think of atleast one study that suggested that the cuticle was semipermeable. "In the amorphous phase precursors permeated the cuticle in a liquid state, as shown by fusion of cuticles and wax layers between contiguous glands, and may have contributed to growth in surface area of the expanding sheath."

#34 gunnaknow: The study describes how the sheaths of trichomes are comprised of a subcuticular wall and an outer cuticle, which enlarge and thicken through the depositing of vesicle contents, when vesicles collide with and adhere to the subcuticular wall. Contents from the degraded vesicles pass through the subcuticular wall and become deposited in the cuticle, thereby thickening the cuticle. The cuticle has a morphous (structured or crystalline) phase and an amorphous (unstructured or non-crystalline) phase. Liquid precursors are able to pass through the amorphous phase in the cuticle and deposit on the outside of the sheath. When two developing trichomes are touching eachother, the liquid precursors that permeate the cuticles solidify on the outside and fuse the trichomes together. The substance that solidifies on the outside of the sheaths is interpreted to be wax in the study. As GW suggested, the nature of this wax is slightly different to the wax found on the leaf surface, although both can be described as epicuticular wax. The main purpose of epicuticular wax is to decrease surface wetting and moisture loss but it in the case of the trichomes, it may also serve to slow the evaporation of the terpenes.

#36 gray wolf: [N-butane] is viscous right out of the storage vessel at those temperatures.

#37 furrywall11: I've been working with single solvent buchner funnel dewaxing using Brett Maverick's videos as a general guide. I've been making a iso bath with dry ice to start. In one of his videos he says that if the temperatures get too low, -59 C he said?, the oils start to come out of solution and are in danger of being filtered out. Does a setup like I described create temps that low? I recently did this tek with some low grade outdoor trim and lost around 70% of the starting weight, hehe.. I think that's what might be happening.

#38 jdee: I tried [dry ice single solvent dewaxing] recently using nugs and went from 20% yield to %10 dewaxed yield. [Temperatures were maintained] around -20c to -26c.

#39 furrywall11: I was talking about putting some iso in a pyrex, adding dry ice and, then adding a another pyrex with BHO solution. Kind of like a dbl boiler. I find that the temp drop makes the whole bho solution gel-like with particulates floating in that could can be filtered out.

#40 cannascience: When single solvent dewaxing at temperatures around -80C, is there any chance of terpene drop-out as well as plant waxes etc? Just thinking because I saw someone end up with a whole lot of gunk in their buchner (about 8g), most of which subsequently turned out to be oil (the good kind).

#42 prune: As mentioned earlier, lower temps risk filtering out "oils" (cbd & thc, amongst others). That's a bad thing. Most terpenes are going to hold on till much lower temps than oils and end up being uncomfortably concentrated, if all the wax and oil content is removed.

#43 unregisterd: We been using the buchner funnel just at -40 -45 at the coldest..We freeze the buchner funnel before filtering as well to help not warm up the solvent. This method seems to work great and u can clearly see the wax on the filters..we put a coffee filter in the buchner funnel over the fritted disc. I want to get some circle filter papers for the funnel itself. Ive been seeing so many diff filters can anyone tell me the difference between Qualatative and Quantative filter paper?

#45 skyhighler: I found the use of 2.5 micron laboratory filter paper gives me a cleaner product (less ash residue when vaped,) compared to a double layer of coffee filters... Amazon's generic lab filter paper is correct in title only, the descriptions are all screwed up. A correct Amazon title: "Filter Paper, Qualitative, Fast, 9cm"

The accompanying incorrect Amazon description:"Qualitative with Slow Flow Rate Whatman Equivalent Grade 5"
How to buy:

If the Amazon title says Fast, it's Whatman #4 equivalent (20-25 micron)

If the Amazon title says Medium, it's Whatman #1 equivalent (11 micron)

If the Amazon title says Slow, it's Whatman #5 equivalent (2.5 micron)

The Whatman standard grades:

http://www.gelifesciences.com/webapp...ructure_16160/

#47 furrywall11: info from BM videos
-100mls of butane for every 10gms of oil so one oz of oil will need 300mls or one can
-between -30 and -40F are optimal temps. Any colder will freeze the good oils
-you have to keep the buchner funnel and solution cold during the filtering -- -10F - or the waxes will dissolve back into the solution.

I haven't tried his tek with the vac-it type chamber between the vac flash and pump. I just tried the hand vac pump and the solution just bubbled in the buchner funnel and came through the funnel at about 1 drop per hour...Then I tried putting an air tight-ish lid on the funnel and I started to get 5 drops per minute @ 15hg. I think I need to add the vac chamber.

#50 furrywall11: Very pretty [pictures of your process]…-34F so you're right on. Are you using coffee filters on your disk? how fast does your solution go through?

#51 unregistered: Ive ran a few with and a few without [coffee filters]..The solution goes thru pretty slow unless i have the funnel filled up about a 1/2 inch. then i can pull the vac and it goes pretty quick.. Its def faster without the coffee filter so im trying to implement the filter on top of the buchner funnel to let the funnel fill for a min after going thru the coffee filter then pull it down..

#52 cannascience: Does anyone have any links to scientific material that explains/indicates at which temperatures destearination occurs for different compounds? Really concerned about losing too much goodness when dewaxing, saw someone to it at -70C or thereabouts ended up with loads of good oil stuck in his buchner along with the waxes.

#53 unregistered: Ive been researching for a few days and still have came up with nothing...BM says anything lower than -50 and your freezing oil so sounds like your friend may have lost some oils.. I think this is the next big question and we all need some concrete evidence from experimental research to understand what temps we need to be ideally working at..

#54 wayzer: THERE ARE STILL FATS TO BE FILTERED, even after dewaxing at -20C.

#55 wayzer: My question to the community here is, Why does whipping the Winterized oleo make it into a wax, after dewaxing and winterizing combo, or does neither of that affect it and why is that stable in the vac as opposed to the shatter?

#56 gunnaknow: whipping it doesn't turn it into a wax as such, it turns it into a colloid. The whipping incorporates air bubbles into it, creating many irregular surfaces within the material that scatter the light. This gives the material an opaque, waxy appearance. Whipped oleoresin or budder is a colloid comprised of a solid dispersion medium (oleoresin) and a gaseous dispersed phase (air), which technically speaking makes it a solid foam (eg. Styrofoam, pumice, etc). I hope that this answers your question.

#57 cannascience: Have you done much research into optimum temperatures for single-solvent dewaxing at all GK? Do you think in the event one were to do the extraction at say -50C that there would be any benefit/need to dewax subsequently?

#59 wayzer: (re: # 56) So if i understand correctly, it means [that] the oleo should not have been fully purged, it is true that the solvent would be trapped inside? Could u suggest a best possible way to reverse this without re-washing it in ethanol? And could u also perhaps clarify why it would smell more potent once gone though the process?... I would hypothesize that the infused air is more volatile and just carries the odor to me more quickly? but i'm not sure what i'm even saying. Lastly…. I would just like to know what the difference between "budder" (the whipped oleo) and "honeycomb" (vacd oleo until it turns) ?

#60 gunnaknow: (re: #57, experience) Sorry but single solvent dewaxing isn't my field of expertise. It's a recent offshoot from common solvent winterization and dewaxing, which are much more my fields. (re: #57, second dewax after -50c extraction)That might depend on how much of a perfectionist you are. It would probably be a good idea to solvent winterize with ethanol afterwards, just to find out how much wax is typically left behind after single solvent dewaxing. You'll then know if single solvent dewaxing alone is sufficient for your needs.

#61 gunnaknow: (re: trapped solvent, avoiding ethanol wash) You could redissolve it in butane and then purge it thoroughly. (re: smell) It's down to the fact that the air bubbles have greatly increased the area. The larger the area, the greater the rate of evaporation. Each air pocket becomes filled with terpenes, just waiting to be released. (re: define honeycomb) Honeycomb is BHO that has usually been purged with a vacuum, to the point where it continuously bubbles. Many of the bubbles pop but collapse into a structured state which then sets.

#62 wayzer: So what would u consider my product if it is dewaxed bho winterized in ethanol, and then vacuum purged to a "honeycomb" consistency? Is it the exact same principle?

#63 gunnaknow: The butane will redissolve the honeycomb structure, regardless of whether it contains residual ethanol or not. You can then purge both the butane and ethanol off gently before doing what ever it is that you want to do. However, to form a honeycomb requires sufficient heat or a vacuum, so you may have already purged the material sufficiently. Whipping up BHO would be a different matter and probably wouldn't be enough to thoroughly purge it.

If you want to use the technical term for your product then it's simply an absolute (if the plant material was undried) but you can call it whatever you like, Wayzer. A term like honeycomb can be useful, it might not be a real honeycomb from a hive but people will know what you mean. That's really the main purpose of words, conveying something that others can understand. Expanded absolute or expanded oleoresin would be accurate descriptions like expanded clay. However, unless they become widely used terms in the community, very few people will know what you mean. Honeycomb has a nice ring to it though and people will know what you mean, which is the most important thing.

#70 green dot labs: custom fitted inline qualitative filter at low pressure in your closed loop. mostly dewaxes it inline.

#76 jump117: SSD looks quite cumbersome and dangerous technology with uncertain efficacy. Interesting to know whether the wax remains in the extract or cannabinoids remain in wax? Control winterization of SSD extract and its wax can clarify this. Prior to this, the result is unpredictable and perhaps it will be unexpected.

#77 cannascience: Any idea on optimum SSD temps for when oil begins to freeze out? Would it have to be done in stages or chilled at a particular speed/for a particular time?

#78 gunnaknow: a subsequent winterization with ethanol is needed in order to test the efficacy of SSD. Using separate treatments with SSD and EtOH as controls, will help to make the data from the combined treatment more reliable.

#80 jump117: You added ethanol in liquid butane, and put the mixture into the cold to winterize?

#83 wayzer: Yes jump. it seems that this was unclear to most....i winterized the SSD'ed in ethanol. there was more wax. But perhaps my dewaxing wasnt done at the optimal temps (-50)?

#87 gray wolf: We aren't removing 100% of the plant waxes with dewaxing or winterizing, but we can get in the low parts per millionth ranges, which is low enough for most purposes.

#101 dybert: (re: cannabinoid content of waste wax, Facebook) We have done over 300 dewaxing runs and I have never seen higher than 5% THC in remainder wax.

#102 gray wolf: (re: cannabinoid content of waste wax) I wonder if he rinsed his filter contents with fresh alcohol, after filtering the waxes out?Waxes with a coat of oil bearing solvent left on them, ostensibly would have measurable THC content. We are reviewing dewaxing processes, but typically extract with butane cold enough to not dissolve the wax in the first place. If it won't hold it in suspension at a given temperature, it won't extract plant wax at that temperature either. Takes more fluid flow and longer contact times, but that is easily done in most non passive closed loop systems.

#104 audio: If one doesn't have a vacuum oven or a way to vacuum purge, would winterizing/dewaxing with 190 proof alcohol help to remove any leftover Lucienne butane? Would it be harmful to winterize oil that hasn't been vacuum purged?

#106 gray wolf: Winterizing will help remove the rest of the butane. No problem if it hasn't been fully vacuum purged, the butane will leave with the alcohol.

#107 ftwendy: Is a vac purge after winterizing redundant b/c "the butane will leave with the alcohol"? All of it?

#108 regisphilburn1: You also have to purge out the ethanol, which boils at a higher temp than butane so it is more difficult to purge.

#113 unregistered: IME its much harder and takes longer to purge ethanol than butane...I can get tests with minimal to no detection of butane but ethanol is still floating at 4-500ppm.

#123 kingtut106: What is the general percentage of loses from dewaxing...I'm thinking it is around 30-40% from my last two runs. I usually yield around 20-25% and have been extracting 10-12% with my process.

#127 gray wolf: Winterizing [loss] has measured from about 8% to over 20%, depending on strain and whether it was indoors and outdoors. The outdoors grows tend to have more protective plant waxes.

#132 kingtut106: (re: results, thoughts on methodology) Definitely better compared to my non-dewaxed (regular bho) and my winterized (ethanol), but overall my lowest yield 11% compared to 20% and 14%. The smoothness is incomparable to anything else, I can ghost any hit even out of my rba. It isn't a uniform shatter piece some areas experienced some waxing up. I think I can clean up my process a little bit this next run, should I freeze my butane if I'm still running it through a tube and not doing a thermos, or will the pressure not be ideal if the butane is that cold.

#133 -boris: If you chill your tane and tube there won't be any pressure issues to worry about but it'll run a little bit slower. I always chill my butane because it extracts less plant wax giving me a lighter product.

#134 gray wolf: (re: chilling butane, equipment) I've extracted with frozen butane using a tube, with good results, but the butane gets less viscous and doesn't flow as well.

*Consider a refrigerated immersion probe for an alternative to dry ice for chilling

Posts #25, 30 (gray wolf) #27 (regis), #29 (gunnaknow) and #70 (green dot labs) are especially helpful... if you have a closed loop system.

Seems to me that people who are shooting gas (instead of recycling) will likely have a difficult time keeping the butane and plant material chilled sufficiently to get the desired effect.

ftwendy said:

Posts #25, 30 (gray wolf) #27 (regis), #29 (gunnaknow) and #70 (green dot labs) are especially helpful... if you have a closed loop system.

Seems to me that people who are shooting gas (instead of recycling) will likely have a difficult time keeping the butane and plant material chilled sufficiently to get the desired effect.

Click to expand...

Thanks for taking the time to post those posts. JK

For sure JK, hope it helps you. Also, edit: post #25 is green dot, but you guys already knew that...

like it was said before.. indoor runs don't produce even close to the amounts. my indoor runs produce maybe a gram of wax an fatty lipids or watevers in there.. out of 2 tube run.. yielding over 35 grams. only 1 was winterized crap... on my outdoor buds.. I got 6 grams out of 67 grams of shatter.. so now I don't bother doing indoors it wastes a lot of monoterps unless u can get the butane to get soo cold u can winterize with 1 solvent. instead of winterizing with alcohol

BestAround said:

like it was said before.. indoor runs don't produce even close to the amounts. my indoor runs produce maybe a gram of wax an fatty lipids or watevers in there.. out of 2 tube run.. yielding over 35 grams. only 1 was winterized crap... on my outdoor buds.. I got 6 grams out of 67 grams of shatter.. so now I don't bother doing indoors it wastes a lot of monoterps unless u can get the butane to get soo cold u can winterize with 1 solvent. instead of winterizing with alcohol

Click to expand...

^^^This is what we are discussing in this thread, 'single solvent de-waxing.' No alcohol....

I have been told that the reason we wintertize, Is that butane is nonpolar and it attracts the stuff we want from our material. The butane gets trapped in the process. You must use a polar solvent to brake it up and release it. Is this true?



If any one is still wondering.. I use dry Ice to drop the temp.