What every1 saying is correct to treat it. But in my opinion... the number 1 reason is environment.

So after you spray it with what you need to kill off the spores. I would up your air circulation. Get more fans, spread plants out, and get humidity down. The number 1 reason is usually poor circulation plus high humidity...

Start with the sprays to kill the reproducing spores. The powdery substance is like the fruit/ seeds. Its how it spreads n reproduces. Once done spraying what ever you choose. Fix your environment. It can be beat. Hope that helps.
 
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Well late in flower i would just ride it out anyway. I personally use EM1 (which includes lactobacillus as you know) till the last week or so and never noticed any loss of sweetness. What is actually loss of sweetness? My buds smell sweet and they’re sticky and fragrant as hell.
Soil drench or spray?
Cause my gals don’t get sprayed once the switch turns to 12/12.
That was what I meant...I don’t know how that applies either...you have to think most NKF are not growing cannabis. So sweetness applies to fruit more in that sense. Brix maybe. That be a whole nother subject altogether.

As I said I’m not advising anything I’m sharing thoughts. I can only go by others that may have used LAB in a way I haven’t. I used it primarily helping break stuff down in my ferments or for smell in FPE. But thinking more on its properties and what it does with combined knowledge I’ve learned here and there.
I do know that people use Lactic acid for pm and even found a product called Cyclone that has citric acid and lactic acid as main ingredients said to be for PM. But I’ve never used it as a spray. But I was thinking of using both ways if needed soil drench too that is. On the cool I think it should be healthy colony we have already since that’s what try to establish anyway.

I don’t know about spraying buds though. Seems like bad idea to me.
 
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My $.02, had PM once, tried the remedies mentioned, also resorting to organic non pasteurized apple cider, milk and hydrogen peroxide cocktail to mist over plants to no avail. Constructed a Sulfer burner, and that’s what I used to sanitized the grow area after throwing out the grow. A ruined crop, makes an easy “true believer”, moved out of the attic, up’d my circulation and run exhaust and circulation for all tents 24/7 during bloom. Got a separate RH meter, to keep check of the temp and RH monitors that I have in each of the tents. In order to control RH in grow area’s, be aware that after watering, plants expire more moisture uping the overall tent RH. I use a dehumidifier in the grow room and set that to 35% during bloom, if I’m doing any veg’ing I’ll run a small humidifier inside that tent to raise RH there only to 50% or so. Also keep any run off from plants vacuumed up, to lower that possible evaporation inside the tents. Once you’ve had it, hopefully you’ll adopt more stringent procedures to minimize or elimate the risk of getting it again. Good luck.
 
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One night my exhaust fan shut off to keep the temps up. Bam! 2 days later, I got powdery mildew. It was week 2 or 3 of flower. Anyway, I added 1 tsp of peroxide to a gallon of water. Sprayed them once, and cleaned my tent real good. Then the next day I sprayed them twice. Haven't had PM since. Just sharing my story...
 

CrimsonEcho

Self-Proclaimed Don Quixote
Supporter
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That was what I meant...I don’t know how that applies either...you have to think most NKF are not growing cannabis. So sweetness applies to fruit more in that sense. Brix maybe. That be a whole nother subject altogether.

As I said I’m not advising anything I’m sharing thoughts. I can only go by others that may have used LAB in a way I haven’t. I used it primarily helping break stuff down in my ferments or for smell in FPE. But thinking more on its properties and what it does with combined knowledge I’ve learned here and there.
I do know that people use Lactic acid for pm and even found a product called Cyclone that has citric acid and lactic acid as main ingredients said to be for PM. But I’ve never used it as a spray. But I was thinking of using both ways if needed soil drench too that is. On the cool I think it should be healthy colony we have already since that’s what try to establish anyway.

I don’t know about spraying buds though. Seems like bad idea to me.
I understand your logic and seems feasible to me. If i ever get the littlest pm, i’ll spray with LAB and share my results.

Also agreed about healthy colonies. We know a healthy, thriving rhizosphere keeps plants healthy and thriving. Who knows maybe thats why i haven’t got pm for sometime.

Spraying with LAB should be ok, probably even when flowering but i’m not advising anything. I have to try first :)
 
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Update!!!!

Okay everyone so yesterday I treated my plants with baking soda and water, as 1diesel1 recommended. I come back today to check on them and bam no WPM!! I did find one leaf with a little that im thinking I missed. I went ahead and sprayed it. Will I need to reapply again in a few days or only if it comes back? Also I need to cut clones asap! How long should I wait before taking cuttings?? Thanks to everyone for all your advice.
 
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As Dan mentioned already: Circulation is a key and often overlooked. These days I make sure every leaf is moving a little.
More is better. Not enough is a guarantee for problems sooner or later. Affects yield and quality too.
Other pests don't like a strong wind either, especially Thrips and these fking Shitmites spread much slower with good circulation!

Another thing is regular Chitosan and UVC treatments. Has other benefits too, like induction of jasmonic acid production and therefore increased trichome and terpene production.
I had problems with such things (PM, Botrytis/Budrot) every once in a while but with these three measures I haven't had any problem in at least 6 years. Even with very high humidity at end of flower. Doesn't cost much and worth a try.
(UVC needs a few simple precautions: Certified UV safe sunglasses, gloves, long sleeves and a ski mask won't hurt either. Don't expose any skin to it and NEVER LOOK INTO THE BULB with naked eyes. Then just stroke your plants stems and leafs with the bulb so the light can reach everywhere. The bulb doesn't get too hot, it's just a fluoro without phosphor. Use a test Plant or a lower branch to see when it's starting to hurt/burn her and to get a feeling for the right level of exposure. I use a 11W bulb, one treatment per week from start to finish. Spray Chitosan every other week till budding really started.)

MfG,
Inkompetenz
 

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