
justiceman
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Sorry about the late reply everyone I have been super busy! :smoking:
1. I don't usually rinse and buffer my coco because I buy it pre-washed. It really depends on the brand, but if you want to make sure you can always run some r/o water through a bit of the coco in question and check to see how high the TDS is of the exit liquid. Shouldn't be a huge number.
2. Yes i caution against using organic nutrients in pure coco. It's not impossible but a very touchy style of growing IMO. Usually organic nutrients don't have elements posted in ppm's so based off that I would assume the nutrients you have are mineral based. Under the guaranteed analysis on the bottle it should have a list of substances that says "derived from". Usually all of those ingredients are minerals when it comes to hydro.
Me personally with clones at that age I would probably start over out of fear of the mites coming back later on. It can be quite devastating to say the least. It all depends on how confident you are with the cleaning, and plant treatment.
No problem at all!Hi @justiceman , thanks for all the info. If i may, i have two questions:
1. Do you rinse and buffer your coco? Should that be part of a "Do"?
2. you mention not to use organic nutes in coco (if i understand correctly). But I haven't managed to find any of the recognized hydro nutes mentioned in the forums (ok... i have, but they are at least 5 times the price than in the US... that i can't and won't pay). I found a nursery that specializes in organics that sells a hydro nute but they were not able to tell me if it was mineral or organic or what where the sources. The bottles do have printed on them the ppms of the elements it's supposed to contain (https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...ust-add-salts-to-improve.101140/#post-2205677). What would you recommend? I was planning on using them but how can i tell if they are organic or not? Any tips?
Thanks in advance!
1. I don't usually rinse and buffer my coco because I buy it pre-washed. It really depends on the brand, but if you want to make sure you can always run some r/o water through a bit of the coco in question and check to see how high the TDS is of the exit liquid. Shouldn't be a huge number.
2. Yes i caution against using organic nutrients in pure coco. It's not impossible but a very touchy style of growing IMO. Usually organic nutrients don't have elements posted in ppm's so based off that I would assume the nutrients you have are mineral based. Under the guaranteed analysis on the bottle it should have a list of substances that says "derived from". Usually all of those ingredients are minerals when it comes to hydro.
It's possible the mites came in coco, but usually it's thrips, or fungus gnats that can come with it. The clones are still very small. Whether you want to try and save them or not depends on how much time you can afford to burn. If you can wait for recovery then go with what enforcer said and do a full azamax dip on all of them while THOROUGHLY cleaning the room. Then there should be a quarantine period where you just wait and see if they come back. If the clones are heavily damaged by the mites at this point then it might be better to start over as they could take quite some time to bounce back.Thanks for the reply, from my estimation the clones were indeed infected with spidermites when i bought them. Is it possible that mites live inside the bags of coco? I noticed the webbing about a week later, and started with azamax. For a few weeks they were dead, but they spawned again. From your experience is it wise to cut my losses now and start with a new batch of clones, not to risk going into bloom and burning energy so that the mites will comeback and destroy my crop. Or is azamax is effective enough to do the job? What would you do? Thanks.
Me personally with clones at that age I would probably start over out of fear of the mites coming back later on. It can be quite devastating to say the least. It all depends on how confident you are with the cleaning, and plant treatment.