Last few things..

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spider125

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Ok so i have almost everything I need to start my first indoor grow! I am missing a couple things! exhaust fans to cool the light, suck air out of the tent and blow air into the tent! I was trying to go cheap and was searching and found this:

http://www.amazon.com/SeaChoice-4-Line-Bilge-Blower/dp/B000N9O7NO

Wouldl that work?

Another question is how many cfm do i need to cool a 600 watt 6" air cool hood?

Any suggestions for this? I'll have a couple more things after I get this figured out!
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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Bump for you.

I calculate ventilation on the room space, not the light wattage. My room is 512'cu, and I use a 10" EcoPlus that turns over the room volume in less than 1min. Room volume turned over every 1-2mins is an excellent turnover rate.
 
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spider125

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OK well the tent im getting is 4ftx4ftx6'7" so about 105 cubic feet. So has anyone ever used a fan like this? What about cooling of the light? I'm going to be cutting another dryer style vent for the heat of it to go outside. And it will have air from the room the tent is in being sucked in. Any advice on using that fan? If its not a go the local shop has some hydrofarm inline fans for like 99 at 165cfm for 4in'ers. Anyone?
 
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spider125

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Circuit Breaker???

Ok so i'm adding things up and I think I might need to run a new outlet on a new circuit breaker! Has anyone ever done this? Is it hard? I have a Challenger Breaker Box. I'm guessing 20 amps for a 600 watt hps, three 4" inline fans, air pump for now. Does that seem right? Please help! Anyone!
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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Frankly, I don't see why that fan wouldn't work. If it moves air and doesn't allow light through, then it should be fine.

I use bare bulbs in open vertizontal parabolic reflectors, and while I own an AC Daystar (Hydrofarm) hood, I've never ventilated it. Therefore, I cannot answer those questions very well. However, I don't think a passive outlet is the way to go, I believe that it needs to be actively ventilated. Passive intakes are cool (again, light can't get through).

As for the electric, that is again outside my realm of experience. My husband installed a whole new sub-panel for my basement growing areas, all I can tell you is that the Romex was expensive, the biggest expense, IIRC. There are other farmers here who are extremely knowledgeable about electric, though. I think you might get better answers starting a thread with something in the title that lets them know you're asking an electrical question.
 
B

bass ackwards

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0
Using the formula, watts divided by volts =amps, add up the amperage of everything you intend to put on the circuit. For safety's sake try not to load a circuit over 80% of the breakers capacity. For a 15amp breaker that would be 12amp's. Use 16 gauge wire for a 15 amp circuit and 12 gauge wire for a 20 amp line. Always work from the fixture backwards towards the breaker box. Wire your light or fan or air pump into an outlet or if it's a direct connection into a junction box. From there wire towards the breaker box.
Make sure the circuit breaker is compatible with the main panel (this usually means that it is manufactured by the same company). When I get to the panel I like to wire the ground wire in first the the common and then the hot wire into the circuit breaker and then snap the circuit breaker into it's slot in the panel. Have the circuit breaker turned off before putting it into the panel. If possible have everything on this new circuit turned off also. Turn the breaker on and then turn everything in this circuit on one component at a time. If something is not right you will find it at this stage. If you need to tighten connections or some such thing turn off the circuit breaker at the panel and fix whats wrong then you can turn the power again.

Respect bass
 
U

Underground

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Hey that's 14AWG not 16AWG for 15 amps. #14 is the smallest you can go for branch circuits.
 
U

Underground

215
28
PS if you get a hard time using those Cutler Hammer type BR single pole breakers in your obsolete panel, print this letter for your inspector to show it is UL listed for use in that panel
 
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