DGP
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I just went through the same thing in my grow. Looks almost identical to my situation. It was root rot. My plants have bounced back and are now growing nice healthy roots. The damaged roots will remain. So long as you don't see the rot worsening and you see new healthy roots growing you should see them bounce back. I even have some healthy ones growing right through the section that was hit by root rot and they're staying healthy and white.
I'd recommend pruning any leaves that have more than 50% damage from it. That way the energy from the new roots can be used for new growth.
What you using to ward off pythium?Thanks for the reply! I think it was a slight root problem that I caught real early as well as a little too high a ppm. Plants are pulling thru nicely now.
Pick below is a plant 4 weeks from sprout:
View attachment 775800
What you using to ward off pythium?
Can i see your setup..Just reducing temperature of water. a fresh water change out and a little 33% H202 diluted to proper strength.
Also, changed the DWC system to a RDWC with a 27 gallon reservoir outside the grow in the cool garage so I can manage a water temp between 62-67F.
Will be buying a 1/4 horse chiller cause there are days when the outside temp is close to 60 and the additional heat load between ambient and warm water returning from a 78F grow room cause the water to get close to the danger zone. I use an aquarium heater to insure it doesn't drop below 62 and milk jugs full of frozen water on the unseasonably warm Winter days. So, I already know from the 2 days that were warmer than normal that a water chiller is in my future.
Thanks,
D
Sure, will post pictures shortly. I posted a thread early about it but got zero response. The reason I posted it is because I have been working with a physicist who specializes in plant culture and we are using a NFT like technique in this run. It is very much like RDWC (so I guess when I replied I didn't know how to refer to it other than RDWC) but water doesn't accumulate much in the 5 gallon grow buckets. They are top feed, bottom return line and the 600 GPH pump feeds (12 plants) drip rings in the top and the water percolates through hydroton and runs down the roots to the return. The pump and back up pump run 24/7. The height of the buckets over the height of the res are what regulate water depth. I can change it easily back to a true DWC top feed by taking the grow buckets off there stands and put them on the floor. Then the water would seek it's average height and return to more of a RDWC system.Can i see your setup..
I like rdwc...
I think I understand.. I wait too see your pics...Sure, will post pictures shortly. I posted a thread early about it but got zero response. The reason I posted it is because I have been working with a physicist who specializes in plant culture and we are using a NFT like technique in this run. It is very much like RDWC (so I guess when I replied I didn't know how to refer to it other than RDWC) but water doesn't accumulate much in the 5 gallon grow buckets. They are top feed, bottom return line and the 600 GPH pump feeds (12 plants) drip rings in the top and the water percolates through hydroton and runs down the roots to the return. The pump and back up pump run 24/7. The height of the buckets over the height of the res are what regulate water depth. I can change it easily back to a true DWC top feed by taking the grow buckets off there stands and put them on the floor. Then the water would seek it's average height and return to more of a RDWC system.
The idea is the constant movement of the water and percolation over the rocks etc. help add more DO. Anyway, might be a total fail but so far the roots are branching and turning very white and are about 18" long already. Seen huge changes in the root color and appearance since the change about 1 week ago.
Thanks,
D.
Wow, you got a lot going on there. Its kinda hard to follow the route your water takes.
why are the plants all wet? And all that moisture on the stems will cause stem rot in a heartbeat. Your halos need to be bigger and pointed down so they dont spray the stem. Also I would put the drip on a timer, 10 mins every hr... If not im scared you will suffer stem rot, and quickly!
the water moving past the roots isnt for oxygen or DO for the plants, its to recirculate the solution thru the system and thru the control bucket where you will take ec and ph tests and add nutrients. Your missing the control bucket on your system is what I see.. Do u know what a control bucket is on a rdwc..The plant was only wet cause I took the dripper out to take the picture. Normally they are hidden under the coco mat that is preventing algae blooms.
I was doing 15 minutes on 45min off but I was warned about letting the roots dry out. However, I was still skeptical that they would dry out that fast. I have a timer capable of gong 15 on and 15 off but I don't have 24 hour resolution that will go any finer....digital ones only have 7 programs so every 10 is not possible with timers I currently have. Is there a timer that can do smaller increments out there? I looked around but didn't find any.
Just curious about your opinion: If DWC and RDWC have the roots in the water all the time then why would having moving water on the roots all the time matter or be a problem? Not being critical but just wondering.
Many times I don't get replies to posts so I really do appreciate the feedback.
D
Hey, I appreciate it sooo much. Yes, I do know what a control bucket is and have seen them used with a float valve arrangement. I was thinking about it but with the drip system and NFT style flow I wasn't sure it was needed but if it is I will certainly add one, have all the stuff laying around to make the change minus a float valve.the water moving past the roots isnt for oxygen or DO for the plants, its to recirculate the solution thru the system and thru the control bucket where you will take ec and ph tests and add nutrients. Your missing the control bucket on your system is what I see.. Do u know what a control bucket is on a rdwc..
And your welcome brother, I like to help when I can..
Welcome to the farm by the way..
Yes it actually does add some do when running down the roots, but the negative is stem rot.Hey, I appreciate it sooo much. Yes, I do know what a control bucket is and have seen them used with a float valve arrangement. I was thinking about it but with the drip system and NFT style flow I wasn't sure it was needed but if it is I will certainly add one, have all the stuff laying around to make the change minus a float valve.
Oh yeah, does the water moving and splashing over the hydroton add to DO levels. If not maybe I should abandon the experiment and go strictly RDWC. Been thinking about it anyway.
Thanks,
D
This was the exact conclusion I had too. And I went straight to rdwc. And been great ever since esp since I use +life. That is really my secret. Which isnt really a secret as alot of my mates use it..If not maybe I should abandon the experiment and go strictly RDWC. Been thinking about it anyway.
Yes, but if we can get them grown up with out stem rot then they should do fine. Its hard to say what will happen with your setup as its kinda unique. My gut says your heading for some problems but I dont have no data to back up my gut other than my own situations ive learned from in the past.My drip rings are pressed down into the hydroton, will that still be a risk for stem rot? Will be converting the system soon and in the mean time will go to 15 on 15 off or 30 off.....
D
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