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Leaf curling and yellowing issues on seedlings

ronad 21 Replies 2,588 Views
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ronad

ronad

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Hi Everyone,

Looking for a little advice on these babies. These pics are of g14 autos that were germinated in rockwool 7/3 and moved into cups on 7/9. The soil is 30% vermiculite, 30% compost and 40% perlite with a bit of activated carbon. PH was a bit high at 7.3 but tried to bring it down with the initial watering. They were watered when transplanted from the rockwool and have not been watered since. Looks like they are overwatered but there is also some yellowing of the leaves and a few tips seem singed. No added nutes as of yet. Lights are a 250w fluorescent and 250W HPS. Any thoughts for a struggling newbie?? Ty!
 

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Thanks guys -- appreciate it! I had a feeling it was overwatered but am surprised as I only watered it the one time after germination and there are plenty of holes in the bottom and sides near the bottom. Will let them dry out completely and then see where they are at.
 
One more question -- is the leaf yellowing from the over watering as well? thx!
Yes and with compost it take time for nutrients to be available. I'm not to sure how that mix will do.... But it's interesting
 
Thx Aquaman. That mix is an amended recipe based on an Ed Rosenthal recipe I saw. Has worked well in the past but might not be ideal for seedling stage, as I think I am discovering -- tends to hold onto moisture and the compost might be a bit hot.
 
What are the room temps? Kinda looking like maybe a cold rootzone but definitely roots not happy and I would like to see better health before up potting.

A heat mat may help dry up that mix some.

Rockwool when not exposed and vermiculite hold water pretty well. This early stage 75-80f soil temps will benefit it. Especially with a media that holds on to water like that.
 
you can see by the colour of the perlite it’s yellowing, proper watering the perlite will stay white the whole grow.
using tap water? make sure to let it sit out for close to 30 hours..
 
Temp is around 70-72 and I was thinking that it might be a bit cool -- will adjust to 75 - 80. And yes using tap water but have not been letting it sit more than a few hours. Will try that tip -- does that balance the ph? Should I use filtered water? Thanks again for the help!
 
let’s the chlorine evaporate, plants hate chlorine!
70-72 is ok, though what’s night/dark temp?
 
Ahhh, of course, makes sense:)

6 hours of no light is probably closer to 68 - 70.
 
Ahhh, of course, makes sense:)

6 hours of no light is probably closer to 68 - 70.
ok so your fine, a difference of 5-6 degrees or less,
no worries there
 
ok so your fine, a difference of 5-6 degrees or less,
no worries there
anything 80 and above for a long period of time can have a negative effect depending on the strain.
 
He is talking about chloramine. Many water supplies use that now and because it's chlorine bound to ammonia. It is far more stable and won't off gas like chlorine. It can last a week or longer after its out of the tap and has to be neutralized with something like seachem prime or ascorbic acid (vitamin C)

The maximum allowed is 4ppm and most water supplies fall about 1ppm
 
Thanks again for all of the feedback.
Another question on potting up when these little guys stabilize -- what size would you go to after the dixie cup seedling size? I was thinking either 2 gallon or straight to 5 gallon. If to the 5 gallon, would that be suitable through flowering or would you pot up again before flowering? Again there are two g14 autos, one White Widow auto and one Super Silver Haze. There will be 4 plants total in a 4 x 4 x 8 ft tent.
 
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