leaves yellowing from inner out and curl

[madcease]

Gday i have 2 clones which were chucked into larger rockwools last week and up untill then they were healthy and green. Now i have these plants which are half healthy and all over the place.
Conditions are as follows.
600W on 2 plants DWC
PH- 5.8-6.2
EC/PPM - 1.4/750
Got clone which i dont know how old was and has been veggin for 7 days. Signs only started once added nutes and put into rockwool.
Washed rockwool and PH it down to about 6 maybe the roots got burnt?
Humidity is around 40-50 with temps 27C in room and about 32-34 wer plant is. Res temp is 24.
Also the brown edges i just noticed today there only on the fan leaves its the new shoots which are yellowing from inside out. Any help would be great
Im thinking this is a sign of lack of N. I gave it a foliar today as i was maybe thought the nutes were not getting to the roots as the ring i have made for feeding is very large circle.
Feeding times are 3 times day 6 hours apart for 1 min.
Is that to much?
Just seen the thread on posting so here goes


What type of medium; soil or hydro? hydro
What brand and type of soil?
Indoors or outdoors? indoor
What strain? Not sure
How old are the plants? 7 days into veg
What type of lights and how many watts? 1 600 HPS
How far from the lights? 35-40cm
What is your watering frequency and source of water? 3 times day for 1min in 6 hour patterns
What, how much and when was it fed? NPK? Using Grow A and Part B nearly at full strenght having the EC at 1.4 and PPM 750 or so
What is the medium/runoff pH and PPM if in hydro? Good question tell you tomorow
What are the temps and humidity in the room? 30-50% with temps of 27 c
What size pots? Big rockwool tubs
Any bugs? Look real close. No just under the rockwool there is some wierd black little dots maybe mold?
Any other pertinent info?

 

[madcease]

Friend of mine told me to stop the recirculating fan as it doesnt need it. Also to raise the light double to wat its already at. And to drop the ec for the next week down to 1 or even lower. But if i raise the light wont it start to stretch to much?
Waiting on 2 cool tubes to arrive cant wait. That should stop the heat problem if there even is one. Replies greatly appreciated

 

[madcease]

Come on guys plz need some info

 

[madcease]

A few changes have been made. Today i soaked the rockwool in about 1/4 strength nutes with ph of 5.8. all the roots got the water needed were as on auto feeding i think my circle feeder tube is to big and nutes nor water is getting to the small roots from clone.
Plants seem to look healthier. I raised the lights also probably about a foot and made sure fresh air is coming through window. EC was at around .8 so very low i think
anyyone?

 

[highroller]

Hi Madcease, and welcome to the Farm. :hi:

You know, it looks to me like your plant is suffering from an Iron deficiency. Seeing as it is starting at the growing shoots it suggests to me that it is an immobile element like iron, and the coloring of the affected leaves also indicates an Fe deficiency. I was gonna say light bleaching, but if they were bleached that severely there would be some actual burning of the leaves going on.
I don't know...don't take this as gospel, but look into it and see what you come up with.
That's what I got. Good luck with them. :)

 

[madcease]

high roler thanks alot i was actually thinking the same thing.
At what ph does Fe get locked out which is why my plant is not taking any?
When i feed manually i make sure its 5.8 so it should be taking in the Iron?

Whats the best way to treat this problem?
Foliar feeding? If so what should i add.
Some one said i have already fixed the problem due to when i got the clones and started feeding i never had a ph meter or ec so i just guessstemated

 

[highroller]

The best range for the absorption of iron in hydro and soiless mediums is between 5.0 and 6.0. Outside of that availability tapers off. Iron can also be locked out by too much phosphorous.
I'd give them a bit more time to see how they react to the measures you have taken. See how the new growth looks, eh? A good general purpose fert and a good ph range should take care of it.

 

[madcease]

Thanks for advicce. One thing i did do after i flushed rockwool with ph of 5.8 and ec of nothing with no fertz i took some of the run off ph and it was around 7.1 which is pretty high.

Maybe that locked out Fe just like you said.
Why are my readings all over the place im using sulfuric instead of vinegar now it should be fine?

Now flushing the whole rockwool with ph 5.9 and no nutes maybe tiny bit das all
What should the run off be? Also how do i get rid of those black eggs on my rockwool that come up because of the wayering tube and no sheet on top? Is there a bottle i can spray on the gnattt fungus
chhjhherrrz

 

[livinglegend]

sorry i didnt see this thread earlier. i know its frustrating to not get answers.
i would bet that it is infact a Iron Def.
i dont think you have nute lockout, i think you just need to add any nutes with a little more Iron in it and balance it out.

 

[Mother Chucker]

what brand of nutes are you using?

 

[madcease]

Yeh it is dissapointing dude but all your help is appreciated as im a fist timer as u can see.
What product can i get so put extra Fe in or can i foliar spray the Fe by itself to get it.
I think at the start with me not having a ph tester fucked everything and my tap water is 7 so with nutes prolly dropped down to 6.5 which is lockout. Makes sense.

Sorry i will have to reply tommorow about the nutes im in oz so not sure if its all the same.
They are starting to look much more healthier and i will update some pics in the next day or 2 to see how you guys think its doing..

What is the distance the plants tops and light should be i dont have any heat issues. Just waiting on cool tubes to arrive and im sweet

Thanks again for replies much appreciated

 

[madcease]

Here is an update of whats going on now.
Growth seems to be coming back on one plant but the other is slowy changing to good so im happy as you can see the new shoots are green but down near the bottom im still experiencing crispy tips and curling up and down.
Im changing my feeding to only twice a day for 1min as i think the time where i cannot check it, i think the ph is jumping up to 6.8 locking out Fe.
Anyway heres some pics thnx guys

 

[madcease]

Is it to late for me to start LST with this plant.
If so how should i go about it do you think.
I have 2Metres in height to play with and im only 10days in veg.
Thinking extra veg time so do i really need LST
Have heard good things but isnt it same as tying down?

 

[highroller]

I don't think it is too late no. LST (low stress training) is tying down, yes. At this point tho, I think you should wait to see if you have solved your other issue first. That is already stressing the plant. Get her healthy first. Is that 6 feet of usable height under the lights?

 

[madcease]

Yes that is 6 feet useable light. Plus im having cool tubes setup next week one 600 on each.
My nutes are just some formula from hydro store with NPK values of 20:9:7
I adjusted my ppm to about 700.
I saw more nute burn than ever if thats what it looks like because my light isnt to close so what else is it with the older leaves going burnt tips with some brown edges.
Growth is more lime green rather than the older growth being a rich dark green
My runnooff is now at 5.9 and my res constantly at 5.8-6.0
Everything sweet except the old growth and tip burn. Temp of room is usually around 24-27c with lights on
Off they get a bit lower maybe 10C drop

Would PH hinder the absorbtion making the leaves curl upward like it needs moisture and tips burning?
Or is that just all about nute burn. The top tips are not burnt at all its most of the old bottom growth but my ppm is at 400 while all this is going on which is fuck all.
There 2 weeks in veg and can see 2 white roots in the DWC so it must be growing

What are these black eggs on my rockwool since i first watered?

 

[chief greenleaf]

you should pick up a copy of marijuana horticulture in/outdoor medical growers bible by jorge cervantes. its by far the most useful grow book ive ever bought, well worth the 30 bucks! i been growin for a long time and i still use it everyday, its a definite must have for any grower especially if youre just gettin started. but yellowing from the middle of the leaves out to the tips could definitely be iron but it could also be manganese. iron, zinc, and manganese often all become deficient together. lowering the soil ph to 6.5 or less will help uptake of iron. increased amounts of oxygen and higher temps in the root zone also help with iron uptake. the book says that if the nute solution is exposed to light it will cause major depletion of iron levels so if you got a res thats uncovered cover it! ha! doesnt say much about specific nutes but it does say to use a chelated form of iron cuz it will be readily available for the root zone to absorb. i was havin a zinc issue with my chocolope mom and picked up some spray-n-grow which is an iron/zinc combo foliar spray! it works great too so that might work for ya. itll help with your deficiency but its also good to use as a weekly foliar.

 

[oweddawg]

I absolutely highly recommend the growers bible too its easy to understand with lots of color pics. I just completed my 3rd cycle (soil) the one thing I learned is let several people post b4 you make any adjustment many of our well intentioned cohorts have nto a clue of what the hell theyh are talking about although as I said well intentioned. Also the last and most miserable and heartbreaking thing is to chase your own tail undoing mistakes. A good start is to get on 2 feeding schedules I use advanced nutrients and foxfarms(love it) and alternate betweent the 2. this way you continue to know exactly what you put in and can make adjustments very easily. oh buy yoursely some calcium/magnesium suppliment and a good compost tea i recommend floral blend its made from sea weed and such to use with every feeding. and remember do your best to not chase your own adjustments. I found that given the short life spansin indoor growing that if your plants remain too sickly snatch'em to avoid bringing disease and pest making your healthy broads sick also. these are my suggestions. oh and fans are absolutely necessary they help to prevent pest as well as strengthen stalks and limbs, trust me the first time you have to top your prize bitch because the stem broke after simple readjusting the pot its not a good feeling. THE MORE AIR MOVING THE BETTER! not sure what kinda lights your usiing for veg but when I upgraded to 4bulb t-5's I got deeper veg growth. anyway I hope my 2 cents helped
Oweddawg
215 compliant
sb420 compliant

 

[madcease]

Thanks for the book i love Jeroge hes the best.
Great read and plenty of info.

I just realised today that my exhaust fan was staying on at night and getting the temps to low a bit below 15c im pretty sure. and that when the lights on during the day it was shut off for 4 hours or maybe 2 not sure.
Will this have a cause to most of my problems as this all started since got timers and so forth put in. And never bothered to check since.

Would 4 hours of 600 w get intense heat under plant if grow tent is usualy around 23 with fan on?

PH is spot on 5.8 now and nutes at 800 ppm i doubt its nute burn what im seeing as the new growth has no signs of it only the older growth
What i did notice was on the other plant alot of the top leaves tips were drooping down. Only the tips though.
Is this heat/cold factor or nutes?

How much of a big deal in DWC is puting normal tap water in instead of waiting 24 hours or using ager water

 

[supasticky]

If you have an Iron def. you probably also have a Zinc and Manganese deficiency. You have to remember that you need to give your plant everything that it needs when you're growing hydroponically not just the NPK.

-Supa

 

[supasticky]

I think at the start with me not having a ph tester fucked everything and my tap water is 7 so with nutes prolly dropped down to 6.5 which is lockout. Makes sense.

Yes, not having a pH tester will mess you up. You actually want the pH at about 6.3:


http://i257.invalid.com/albums/hh230/itschillbro/Sticky%20Icky/ph_nutrient_chart.jpg

As you can see(the pH numbers are at the bottom) all vital nutrients are accepted by the plant at about 6.3. You can get even more technical, but for right now just stick with between 6-6.5. Do you have a pH tester or pH pen?

-Supa
:cool0044: