Frankster
Never trust a doctor who's plants have died.
Supporter
- 5,188
- 313
Picture's worth a thousand words with this stuff. Any Questions, please ask.
Two separate units I''ll cover here. The BestVA is first, it's a 590w (4000 series) unit.
The second is a Roleadro/galaxy hydro 240 w unit. a (2000 series) I believe.
Notice how I carry out test on the unit before reassembly, also checking fan spindown for defects.
I've been building computers for over 20 years, so I'm very comfortable with these types of components.
For example:
My current computer system has watercooling system and his highly overclockable. (Yes, I'm a gamer)
Here's the equipment on my current rig.
Intel i5 9600k@5GH
MSI GeForce GTX 1070 ARMOR OC 8GB
G.SKILL Ripjaws 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 3200@3400mhz
Crucial MX500 1TB SSD
MSI MPG Z390 GAMING PLUS
Corsair Hydro Series™ H110i GT 280mm Extreme Liquid CPU Cooler
ID-COOLING FROSTFLOW 120 mm GPU Liquid Cooler
Corsair Gaming K70 Mechanical Gaming Keyboard — CHERRY® MX Fast
Logitech G pro mouse
3D Speed Edition Razer Goliathus XXL
Monoprice Zero-G Gaming Monitor - 25 Inch AMDFreeSync, 240Hz, 1ms
As you can see, I'm quite the little geek. Back to the task at hand:
Note the little "black boxes" which are power units, also note the ventilation ports. (they need to remain clear at all times or bad things can and will happen) Also, of critical importance is checking fan function. Fans should "spin down" similar, and one shouldn't be exceptionally slower than the others (or not moving). That would be very bad, indeed.
Also, note the internal heatsync, it should be clear of dust and debris to promote good air flow and heat dispersal of the diodes on the opposite side.
Note the fans, and the blades, dirty blades are unbalance and inefficient movers of air. Take care not to break them while cleaning, but they can be handled, if care is taken. The motor is toward the center of the blade, I use corrosion X with silicone to promote good lubrication and resistance to corrosion or to prevent moisture related damage.
Corrosion X can be sprayed thoughout the unit, although I would "wipe up" any extra, so that it doesn't promote more dust sticking. But switches, even the diodes or wires themselves can be sprayed, but just wipe them down and give it a little time to evaporate/breath before plugging back in, it's great for maintenance of these items in particular. I also use it with my drones, because they sometimes get stuck in the rain here in Seattle. I even coat the engines, switches, and sensors with no problems. I've also used this same stuff on my cellphone devices, or any electronics exposed to moisture.
Stuff I used:
Corrosion X silicone lubricant electrical protectant.
screwdriver
snips
orange cleaner
goo-gone cleaner
vacuum cleaner
rags/paper towels
I suppose compressed air would work nicely also. (not used)
Two separate units I''ll cover here. The BestVA is first, it's a 590w (4000 series) unit.
The second is a Roleadro/galaxy hydro 240 w unit. a (2000 series) I believe.
Notice how I carry out test on the unit before reassembly, also checking fan spindown for defects.
I've been building computers for over 20 years, so I'm very comfortable with these types of components.
For example:
My current computer system has watercooling system and his highly overclockable. (Yes, I'm a gamer)
Here's the equipment on my current rig.
Intel i5 9600k@5GH
MSI GeForce GTX 1070 ARMOR OC 8GB
G.SKILL Ripjaws 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 3200@3400mhz
Crucial MX500 1TB SSD
MSI MPG Z390 GAMING PLUS
Corsair Hydro Series™ H110i GT 280mm Extreme Liquid CPU Cooler
ID-COOLING FROSTFLOW 120 mm GPU Liquid Cooler
Corsair Gaming K70 Mechanical Gaming Keyboard — CHERRY® MX Fast
Logitech G pro mouse
3D Speed Edition Razer Goliathus XXL
Monoprice Zero-G Gaming Monitor - 25 Inch AMDFreeSync, 240Hz, 1ms
As you can see, I'm quite the little geek. Back to the task at hand:
Note the little "black boxes" which are power units, also note the ventilation ports. (they need to remain clear at all times or bad things can and will happen) Also, of critical importance is checking fan function. Fans should "spin down" similar, and one shouldn't be exceptionally slower than the others (or not moving). That would be very bad, indeed.
Also, note the internal heatsync, it should be clear of dust and debris to promote good air flow and heat dispersal of the diodes on the opposite side.
Note the fans, and the blades, dirty blades are unbalance and inefficient movers of air. Take care not to break them while cleaning, but they can be handled, if care is taken. The motor is toward the center of the blade, I use corrosion X with silicone to promote good lubrication and resistance to corrosion or to prevent moisture related damage.
Corrosion X can be sprayed thoughout the unit, although I would "wipe up" any extra, so that it doesn't promote more dust sticking. But switches, even the diodes or wires themselves can be sprayed, but just wipe them down and give it a little time to evaporate/breath before plugging back in, it's great for maintenance of these items in particular. I also use it with my drones, because they sometimes get stuck in the rain here in Seattle. I even coat the engines, switches, and sensors with no problems. I've also used this same stuff on my cellphone devices, or any electronics exposed to moisture.
Stuff I used:
Corrosion X silicone lubricant electrical protectant.
screwdriver
snips
orange cleaner
goo-gone cleaner
vacuum cleaner
rags/paper towels
I suppose compressed air would work nicely also. (not used)
Last edited:
