Led Gurus Please Help

[Vonkins]

That could be your problem. Wrong hooked cob. Your driver has reverse polarity protection but looks like it's not kicking in right away but let's current leaking throug your reversed cob which might indicate that cob took some damage.

So reversing the polarity probably screwed up my cobs?

 

[Toaster79]

So reversing the polarity probably screwed up my cobs?

Not necessarily. I hooked up my cxb3070 wrong with only two in series and some current did leak through it. Now hooked right it comes on maybe 1/2s later and you can see some chips are not as bright as the others. And it's been running for the past two years at about 1900mA.

 

[Vonkins]

Now that we know what my peak voltage is from this driver. What voltage would you guys say would be the sweet spot for brightness to get maximum yield, resin production, and efficiency. Obviously mine are running at 142.5 volts. All my dimmers are set the same. Seems a lil high to me. What yall think? In a 4x8 with 5 36x6 heatsinks with 4 cobs a piece equalling 20 cxb3590s.

 

[Toaster79]

That's 35.625V per cob. Check the graph again and look up the voltage at 1750mA. Looks close enough to datasheets to me.

Measure after an hour again when your cobs get to working temperature (case temperature of the package). You start at approx 25°C as this is probably your room temperature or maybe even lower. With the measured voltage you can determine at what voltage each individual cob runs or even better, measure each individual cob, and after looking at that graph you can calculate the temperature and get the power your cob is using. Some run as low as 27W/sqr' some run higher powers like say 35W/sqr'. Id look up some grow diaries and decide what would work for me.

If you ask me, run them bitches at nominal power with sufficient cooling. So 90W for a 3590.

 

[G gnome]

What r u guys doin? Building a space ship?

 

[Toaster79]

What r u guys doin? Building a space ship?

Hahaha

No, it's just a simple led light lmfao

 

[Toaster79]

Hahaha

No, it's just a simple led light lmfao

It's basically not much different than any other light.

HPS/ LED

bulb+socket / COB+holder(+reflector)
reflector / heatsink
ballast / driver

See?

roflmfao

 

[sixstring]

@heisenbubble bad idea to tie both dim leads together.just cap each one seperately for full power.

 

[heisen]

@heisenbubble bad idea to tie both dim leads together.just cap each one seperately for full power.

thats what i ended up doing,i remember tying them together dimmed them all the way,I just wrapped tape around the ends.The pot was definitly causing some funky issues.

 

[Vonkins]

Gotter done fellas. The original problem was driver failure. But when i hooked up my new driver i hooked the black and red opposite of my old driver. Polarity was backwards. So i reversed the wiring on that bar and voila!! Thanks for all the help guys!! I didnt change the wiring at the driver because it was a crimped connection.

 

[Vonkins]

That's 35.625V per cob. Check the graph again and look up the voltage at 1750mA. Looks close enough to datasheets to me.

Measure after an hour again when your cobs get to working temperature (case temperature of the package). You start at approx 25°C as this is probably your room temperature or maybe even lower. With the measured voltage you can determine at what voltage each individual cob runs or even better, measure each individual cob, and after looking at that graph you can calculate the temperature and get the power your cob is using. Some run as low as 27W/sqr' some run higher powers like say 35W/sqr'. Id look up some grow diaries and decide what would work for me.

If you ask me, run them bitches at nominal power with sufficient cooling. So 90W for a 3590.

2 fans on each bar should be enough cooling. When i touch my bar its warm to the touch, definitely not hot. Maybe 100 degrees if i was to guess.