That's a 240 watt driver, check the spec. If it's pulling 300 watts, it's already over.
No, I would be pushing my lights past the spec, especially using passive cooling. If I did it at all, I would be using an appropriate diver (so I don't burn shit up) and I would be using active cooling measures. Plus, I know doing this is also going to greatly reduce shelf life, and degrade the diode output far sooner.
Light quality already degrades over time, why would you want to expedite that?
I mean, there your lights, do what you want, but I think it's a waste of time, money, and the net benefit is marginal at best.
Stick to overclocking CPU's, not your grow lights...
My overclock setup: I've been building and overclocking electronics for over 25 years.
Intel i5
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MSI GeForce GTX 1070 ARMOR OC 8GB
G.SKILL Ripjaws 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 3200@3400mhz
Crucial MX500 1TB SSD
MSI MPG Z390 GAMING PLUS
Corsair Hydro Series™ H110i GT 280mm Extreme Liquid CPU Cooler
ID-COOLING FROSTFLOW 120 mm GPU Liquid Cooler
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Logitech G pro mouse
3D Speed Edition Razer Goliathus XXL
Monoprice Zero-G Gaming Monitor - 25 Inch AMDFreeSync, 240Hz, 1ms
Mean Well ELG-240-48AB AC-DC Single output LED Driver Mix Mode (CV+CC) with PFC; Output 48Vdc at 5A; Dimming with 0-10Vdc 10V PWM resistance; IP65; Io and Vo adjustable through built-in potentiometer
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