Lots of questions

[5280Grower]

Hey everyone, thanks for the great info on these forums, this was a post initially in response to a post by altitudefarmer but I would love to hear input from everyone here. I can get pic's tomorrow if it helps.

Going to be a long post but thanks for starting this topic. My jaw dropped when I saw your first picture, I almost thought it was a picture from our grow.

Anyways, I am the warehouse manager/grower/rookie at a grow facility that just got promoted to being in charge because the head grower got fired, our harvests were coming in at about $1500 to produce a pound - the owner and grower had a hell of a sour relationship. Our dispensary is stretched pretty thin because of our over the top grow costs. We have gotten past the interview phase with new master growers but cant afford to put our choice on the payroll yet, he comes in once a week at most to give direction and help. The guy is super sharp and knows what he is talking about, my other "helper" is a grower with about 20 years experience but its all in soil and tightly controlled conditions, he also knows his shit but the scope of this garden changes everything.

Our setup is a modified waterfarm buckets connected to a main res - about 30 gal, feeds 8-14 buckets, in the main flower rooms (2 of them) these are recirc with a small pump in the last bucket in the system, there are a couple of medium round airstones in the main res. Some are connected with 1/2" tubing, and some 1". Our veg area is set up the same way without recirculation.

The first flower room not much can be done, pests are minimum, buds are small but looking ok, environment has been dialed in as much as possible. The pythium is causing major nutrient lock (growers knowledge not mine). Our strategy is just trying to get through this harvest and then redo the room, its about 3 weeks from harvest.

The 2nd flower room (veg was left unattended so we are behind schedule) is just a few days from being flipped to flower. I have got the recirculating system working properly, the recirc line now "waterfalls" into the resavoir to increase aeration, plus it gives a visual cue that it is still working. Our treatment in here (and veg) has been h202 hand soaking, water hand soaking, followed by nutes and a big dose of plant success and roots excelurator, repeated every week. This has caused awesome root growth (compared to before when I never saw roots leave the hydroton) but they grow big and white, then eventually turn tan, and are now starting to show signs of brown slimy snot again, especially the ones sitting in the slow moving water. I took the airstones that were in the main res and put them into the individual buckets, the roots in contact with them actually have started changing from tan back to white, awesome!


For the veg, I'm about to move our nice healthy clones to the veg room, 4 inch rockwool to our waterfarm system. I have a limited budged but have made sure that the system has been bleached, rinsed, bleached, rinsed etc.

My main questions on fixing and making this system work are never ending, the scope of the grow changes everything, financially we cant just scrap everything and start over, its more of a question of cost per man hour/vs yield, to remain competitive we need to get our $/pound to under $1000.

For all the preamble here are my questions:

1. Is pythium something you beat/eradicate or something you win against because its not present anymore or do you win because your plants are healthy and not susceptible to it.

2. Our head grower is a big believer in benne's, if its not possible to aerate each bucket with airstones, can I run h202 to give roots oxygen, this will kill everything but lack of oxygen seems to be a bigger problem then lack of benne's.

3. Waterfarm watering schedule? Our head grower uses (and excels) in flood and drain tables. Our watering has been cut down to 10 minutes 4 times a day. The rational is to force the roots to seek out water, unfortunately the water it finds is stagnant (or slowly recirc). Water too much, roots dont grow, when roots grow they find crappy water.

4. Is there a way to aerate 6-14 buckets without an individual airstone/s? I have installed "diffusers" in the recirulating waterfalls, just a piece of 1/2 pvc with tiny holes in it that spray and mist the recirc water back into the main res. With the amount of buckets involved, an airstone in each bucket is a huge investment (4 airstone a pump, pump, tubing, electrical outlets and circuits, not to mention the inconvenience of trying to navigate around a giant mess of air tubing and pumps in your garden)

5. Whats the difference between a waterfarm and dwc, sorry if this sounds stupid but a recirculating waterfarm sounds like dwc with a bunch of extra hydroton in the way

6. Res Temp. After countless reads of this site its clicking that res temp is very important. Super ghetto but I have been adding bottles of frozen water to the main res to get temps under 70. A chiller would be awesome but I think the new grower is set on flood tables and we will eventually switch. How does one go about chilling 40+ main res?. My best solution so far has been to top off each res each day, our incoming temp is about 50, it mixes nicely with 70 degree water. Spring and summer with not play nice with that strategy :).

Thanks for any insights, I have been spending countless hours researching and this place seems to have a better ratio of info to bullshit. Altitudefarmer, dont really want to name the OPC I work at quite yet but I would love to talk to you, send me a pm (cant yet, new poster)

 

[NeWcS]

Would love to know the answer to some of these myself.

 

[singingcrow]

>The 2nd flower room (veg was left unattended so we are behind schedule) is just a few days from being flipped to flower. I have got the recirculating system working properly, the recirc line now "waterfalls" into the resavoir to increase aeration, plus it gives a visual cue that it is still working. Our treatment in here (and veg) has been h202 hand soaking, water hand soaking, followed by nutes and a big dose of plant success and roots excelurator, repeated every week. This has caused awesome root growth (compared to before when I never saw roots leave the hydroton) but they grow big and white, then eventually turn tan, and are now starting to show signs of brown slimy snot again, especially the ones sitting in the slow moving water. I took the airstones that were in the main res and put them into the individual buckets, the roots in contact with them actually have started changing from tan back to white, awesome!

Sounds to me here like you need to up the quality of your airstones to ceramic, and/or add a small water pump with no hose to the larger res. A small pump will just keep a gentle flow moving and help the airstone function better sometimes. Look carefully at the bottom of the bucket for seperated nutrients, large chunks of brown "flakes", etc... this means the water is damaging the nutes. Anyway, a gentle moving is helpful, and that, with some added H202 should help, granted you arent using organic nutes (which will be non-usable with H202 and airstones... well most organic nutes).

>2. Our head grower is a big believer in benne's, if its not possible to aerate each bucket with airstones, can I run h202 to give roots oxygen, this will kill everything but lack of oxygen seems to be a bigger problem then lack of benne's.

Big problem! Ok, learning this the hard way and yes, I still mean learning... its a process for everyone doing organics, specifically. You can NOT use any kind of bleach, H202 or airstones with MANY organics, live bennes, etc...

For example: pick one or the other such method:

1. Use hygrozyme, liquid karma (botanicare), aquashield (botanicare), sensizyme, etc... and change out the rez often. Expensive. You need to see bubbling, live, microbial action. A lot of work, excellent product, great quality and no flush needed,

This approach however its like tightrope walking over a chasm.

2. Use something like BCBloom, General Hydroponics, etc.., H202, epson salts (or upgrade to a nice CalMag like Botanicare's. Save money and keep all benes gone. No hygrozyme or sensizyme. Don't bother with seaplex or other kep nutrients. Stick to manufactured ingredients or a mix of natural and synthetics like BCBloom. Save money.

This approach is more akin to walking a 2X4 over a 5 foot drop.

>3. Waterfarm watering schedule? Our head grower uses (and excels) in flood and drain tables. Our watering has been cut down to 10 minutes 4 times a day. The rational is to force the roots to seek out water, unfortunately the water it finds is stagnant (or slowly recirc). Water too much, roots dont grow, when roots grow they find crappy water.

It depends on the medium. You might be drowning the roots. I grow in all rockwool at the moment (hating rockwool...lol), but it holds a lot of water. 3X 10 minutes a day is all that is needed under 1000HPS. Also, tilt the tables at least on a 1X2" piece of wood or PVC in the back, wrapped in something non-skid.... Tilting helps the tables to drain well. I try to get all extra waters off my ebb and flow tables within 10 minutes.

>4. Is there a way to aerate 6-14 buckets without an individual airstone/s? I have installed "diffusers" in the recirulating waterfalls, just a piece of 1/2 pvc with tiny holes in it that spray and mist the recirc water back into the main res. With the amount of buckets involved, an airstone in each bucket is a huge investment (4 airstone a pump, pump, tubing, electrical outlets and circuits, not to mention the inconvenience of trying to navigate around a giant mess of air tubing and pumps in your garden)

See my comment on a small pump to gently move water and using ceramic airstones.

Those are the only ones I feel I know anything about.. hope that helps a little! I would pick one system for vegging, one for flowering and "dial" them in, instead of trying out so many systems. Pick one simple, inexpensive to run, maybe extra work, but simple. I suggest ebb and flow with rockwool 4" cubes with rockwool plugs of clones brought in when ready, or maybe rockwool slabs with 1" rockwool squares, or cocomats on ebb and flow tables with rockwool cubes or cococoir pots with coco "soil". DWC is a lot of work on a large system but works GREAT for keeping mother plants.

 

[Tobor the 8th Man]

I have some experience with PowerGrowers. They are just like a WaterFarm only they have about a gallon more grow area where the hydroton goes and they hold more solution and are made heavier duty IMHO. Otherwise they are basically the same type of drip ring with an air pump to move the solution.

Somewhere along the line people have started using them differently. I say incorrectly. These units are a type of NFT. Nutrient flow technique. They work by dripping water over the roots that are growing in the hydroton. They are not DWC (Deep Water Culture). That is where you grow the plant in oxygenated nutrient solution and is a form of true hydroponics (growing in water).

What happened is some people start modifying them by drilling holes and adding airstones so they could fill the whole solution area with roots. More roots meant bigger yields. And it can work but it needs to be regulated more. Because the bottom solution now has roots and is now DWC. With DWC you need to keep the solution chilled just like in hydro. It has to be around 68 degrees maybe a bit cooler to keep bad stuff from growing in the solution.

The company didn't make extra holes in the root chamber and the company didn't include an airstone because that is not how these are supposed to be used. The units work by dripping solution over the roots that should be confined to the hydroton and root chamber. You do not want them growing down into the solution. They will rot, things will grow, ph becomes messed up, nutrient lockout and death or crappy buds.

Everything would be beautiful until mid to late flowering when I would experience ph problems. When I would investigate it would always be the ones with lots of roots in the solution and they would look bad. I just started cutting them off, change solution and things would be fine. This was a hassle with 100 Powergrowers that I ran as individual units. I did this because if they are connected one plant with root rot will contaminate the entire group connected to the same rez.

You can still use a rez if you do the things I suggest. Do not drill extra holes. This allows roots to easily grow into the solution. In fact I added window screen to the bottom so solution could drip through but roots could not get past. You can also use coarse silkscreen and just line the whole root container and then fill with hydroton. If you do this it will cover the holes you drilled.

You should also run the drippers continuously with lights on. When I was on 12/12 I would run it all the time with lights on. Then when lights went out the dripper went off for 4 hours and on for 15 minutes then off 4 hours and on 15 minutes than off for 3.5 hours and then on for 12 hours with lights and repeat.

You said when you watered too much the roots didn't grow. That is what should happen. They are getting everything they want in the root space they are in. However in my experience they still grew out. That is why I forced them to stay top side with the screen.

Now the solution drips over the hydroton and pushes air into the hydroton plus the hydroton is very airy to begin with so the roots have plenty of water, nutrients and oxygen. Then the solution falls down into the bottom and recirculates and stays the same ph and stays clean because there are no roots mucking up the water and making it yucky.

I would adjust my ph between 5.6 to 5.9. I would change it a bit with each rez change.

These units are designed to keep the roots above the water and allow the drippers to supply the nutrients. If you want more root space then you need to get the big 20 gallon MegaGrower unit. Then you can veg bigger and still keep the roots contained.

But my method of blocking the roots will allow you to veg longer. You are supposed to put a clone in of a size by the time you flip until you harvest didn't outgrow the root zone. This is very hard to do because the roots want to head down into the solution. Block them with screen.

Also it is very helpful to add SM90 to the solution because it keeps things from growing in the solution. I used chemical ferts. If you are organic the don't use SM90.

When used correctly these units really perform and plants are very happy in them. The guys that successfully grow in modified ones are good at DWC. They have chillers, or use frozen water bottles or somehow keep the solution cooler. They have more things to watch and more things to go wrong.

If you do it my way it does not matter what the water temp is because the roots are not in the water. The roots are in soilless medium but like soil. I could water with stagnant water in soil with no ill effects because the air in the soil kills nasty anaerobic bacteria and I won't get root rot as long as I don't overwater. In hydroton with lights on you can't overwater either.

You thought you had a big post. LOL!

 

[Mr. Greeny]

Here is my two cents. It might not agree with other posts, but then again it is my own experiences. I use power eco growers and water farm's 8 bucket system. I have found that no matter what I have done to prevent it, roots still tend to grow their way down to the solution. At which point I was forced to (like the other poster stated) drill holes and add air stones. The only time I had a problem with root rot was when I forgot to add my Hygrozyme. I really dont like how the water farms recirculate the water amongst buckets. If one root system happens to get infected with anything, then I can promise you that one or more of the others will as well. I have used my water farm 8 bucket system twice. I really did not like the results. So now I use them for parts and drain buckets for my power eco growers. I like being able to control a plant on a single basis. I will never go to any other type of hydro system. I like the modified power eco growers so much, that that is all I use now. If you use Hygrozyme, you can allow your water temps to exceed 68 degrees. My solutions run at around 74-80 degrees. I have been able to dial in on the system I use, and am able to pull about a pound and a half to two pounds per 1000 watt bulb. I am also able to grow a pound for about $350. Granted I don't pay myself an hourly rate like a business, so this cheapens my cost.

P.S. It's kinda funny, but I do all my grows almost on auto pilot. My close friend tells me that I have almost perfected a "grow itself" technique. I only fill/change my rezs and train my plants a little. That is really all I do with them.

 

[Legallyflying]

My advice...switch to ebb and flow system with the buckets you have. Fill them with hydroton, put a screen on the hoses to keep the hydroton out and use a pump to flood them all.

Hopefully the new master grower will know what is up, but quite honestly, the last guy sounds like he didn't know what he was doing... At all.

H2o2 and bennies?
Standing water with no air stones?
Neglected veg?

These are the trade marks of someone that doesn't have much understanding of hydro. Just my 2 cents.

Ebb and flow is pretty fool proof and the results are very close to other hybrid systems.

 

[5280Grower]

Thanks

Thanks for the replies, I would like to address some of them individually but will give an overall view of the changes we have made last couple weeks.


Large Flower Room
Our routine of h202, and then bennies cost a lot, Roots Excelurator is mega expensive in the flowering rooms (800 gallons in reservoirs). The idea was, kill the pythium with h202, use RE and plant success to grow new roots, h202 again, etc. We did this for 3 weeks with great success.

We bit the bullet and added air-stones (large cylinder) to every bucket, total drag haha...

Got our environment dialed in. The last grower had all tstats located in the isles and walkways, once we put them near the canopy we realized that our girls had been cooking at 85-90 degrees.

Got a handle on reservoir temps. Don't have the budget for chillers but incoming water is about 45-50 degrees, if we top off rez's every day brings average res temps to under 70. (Previous grower left rez for 5 days w/out topoff or ph adjustments)

A week before flower, we stopped the h202, 90% of plants have developed roots past the 2 gallon hydroton inserts and into the nutes.

5 Days into flowering: We are experiencing positive problems. Root mass has completely filled up the waterfarm buckets blocking the recirculation. Roots around air stones are bright pearly white, lots of new root growth, lots of new fuzzy's. Older, tan/brown roots are either changing white (near air stones) or staying the same. No noticeable slime or brown dreadlock looking gunk like before.

Plants have really stretched, our best rows are about 6 feet high!

Small Flower Room
Results are not nearly as good, grower decided to cut harvest short and we are now doing a final flush to harvest in 2 weeks.

h202 was ineffective, the (very) few roots that made it past the hydroton are snotty and brown. I have noticed lots of fungus gnats, grower decided to chop down some of the worst ones.

The biggest buds are about the size of a coke can, not alot of swelling. Tops of about 1/2 of them are not nice and compact but shooting off in weird angles. Lots of larf and small popcorn buds.

90% of this the owner wont sell in the store

 

[5280Grower]

Here are some pics from today. Everything got the same treatment, the nice looking roots were treated in veg, while the nasties were given the same treatment in week 2 (approx) of flower. Difference is dramatic. FWIW, everything looked the same as the first picture when we starting fighting the pythium, brown sludge covered roots on anything that had made it past the hydroton.

starting point (small flowering room still looks like this everywhere)

pic of roots in the larger flower room, started treatment in veg

colas from the pythium factory/small flower room

 

[5280Grower]

>2. Our head grower is a big believer in benne's, if its not possible to aerate each bucket with airstones, can I run h202 to give roots oxygen, this will kill everything but lack of oxygen seems to be a bigger problem then lack of benne's.[/B]

Big problem! Ok, learning this the hard way and yes, I still mean learning... its a process for everyone doing organics, specifically. You can NOT use any kind of bleach, H202 or airstones with MANY organics, live bennes, etc...

For example: pick one or the other such method:

1. Use hygrozyme, liquid karma (botanicare), aquashield (botanicare), sensizyme, etc... and change out the rez often. Expensive. You need to see bubbling, live, microbial action. A lot of work, excellent product, great quality and no flush needed,

This approach however its like tightrope walking over a chasm.

2. Use something like BCBloom, General Hydroponics, etc.., H202, epson salts (or upgrade to a nice CalMag like Botanicare's. Save money and keep all benes gone. No hygrozyme or sensizyme. Don't bother with seaplex or other kep nutrients. Stick to manufactured ingredients or a mix of natural and synthetics like BCBloom. Save money.

This approach is more akin to walking a 2X4 over a 5 foot drop.

We just picked up 5 gal of hydrozyme and Calmag today :). I know h202 and bennies do not work together but it was explained to me like this: H202 is like "chemo" for the plants. Add a ton of h202, alot of plants toppled over and were cut, then we do a round of R.E. and Plant success, new fuzzy roots grow. Then, another round of h202, no more fuzzy's, just a few die. One more round of R.E. and plant success. The winning plants make it to flower, the rest are cut. Now that we have a healthy root system in the survivors we will switch to something more economical then R.E.

The strategy didn't work as well in flower where roots dont grow after the 3rd (?) week. The few dangling survivors looked good for a day or two but never developed. Thats why the owner made the call to chop the harvest early and start with healthy plants.

 

[5280Grower]

I have some experience with PowerGrowers. They are just like a WaterFarm only they have about a gallon more grow area where the hydroton goes and they hold more solution and are made heavier duty IMHO. Otherwise they are basically the same type of drip ring with an air pump to move the solution.

Somewhere along the line people have started using them differently. I say incorrectly. These units are a type of NFT. Nutrient flow technique. They work by dripping water over the roots that are growing in the hydroton. They are not DWC (Deep Water Culture). That is where you grow the plant in oxygenated nutrient solution and is a form of true hydroponics (growing in water).

What happened is some people start modifying them by drilling holes and adding airstones so they could fill the whole solution area with roots. More roots meant bigger yields. And it can work but it needs to be regulated more. Because the bottom solution now has roots and is now DWC. With DWC you need to keep the solution chilled just like in hydro. It has to be around 68 degrees maybe a bit cooler to keep bad stuff from growing in the solution.

The company didn't make extra holes in the root chamber and the company didn't include an airstone because that is not how these are supposed to be used. The units work by dripping solution over the roots that should be confined to the hydroton and root chamber. You do not want them growing down into the solution. They will rot, things will grow, ph becomes messed up, nutrient lockout and death or crappy buds.

Everything would be beautiful until mid to late flowering when I would experience ph problems. When I would investigate it would always be the ones with lots of roots in the solution and they would look bad. I just started cutting them off, change solution and things would be fine. This was a hassle with 100 Powergrowers that I ran as individual units. I did this because if they are connected one plant with root rot will contaminate the entire group connected to the same rez.

You can still use a rez if you do the things I suggest. Do not drill extra holes. This allows roots to easily grow into the solution. In fact I added window screen to the bottom so solution could drip through but roots could not get past. You can also use coarse silkscreen and just line the whole root container and then fill with hydroton. If you do this it will cover the holes you drilled.

You should also run the drippers continuously with lights on. When I was on 12/12 I would run it all the time with lights on. Then when lights went out the dripper went off for 4 hours and on for 15 minutes then off 4 hours and on 15 minutes than off for 3.5 hours and then on for 12 hours with lights and repeat.

You said when you watered too much the roots didn't grow. That is what should happen. They are getting everything they want in the root space they are in. However in my experience they still grew out. That is why I forced them to stay top side with the screen.

Now the solution drips over the hydroton and pushes air into the hydroton plus the hydroton is very airy to begin with so the roots have plenty of water, nutrients and oxygen. Then the solution falls down into the bottom and recirculates and stays the same ph and stays clean because there are no roots mucking up the water and making it yucky.

I would adjust my ph between 5.6 to 5.9. I would change it a bit with each rez change.

These units are designed to keep the roots above the water and allow the drippers to supply the nutrients. If you want more root space then you need to get the big 20 gallon MegaGrower unit. Then you can veg bigger and still keep the roots contained.

But my method of blocking the roots will allow you to veg longer. You are supposed to put a clone in of a size by the time you flip until you harvest didn't outgrow the root zone. This is very hard to do because the roots want to head down into the solution. Block them with screen.

Also it is very helpful to add SM90 to the solution because it keeps things from growing in the solution. I used chemical ferts. If you are organic the don't use SM90.

When used correctly these units really perform and plants are very happy in them. The guys that successfully grow in modified ones are good at DWC. They have chillers, or use frozen water bottles or somehow keep the solution cooler. They have more things to watch and more things to go wrong.

If you do it my way it does not matter what the water temp is because the roots are not in the water. The roots are in soilless medium but like soil. I could water with stagnant water in soil with no ill effects because the air in the soil kills nasty anaerobic bacteria and I won't get root rot as long as I don't overwater. In hydroton with lights on you can't overwater either.

You thought you had a big post. LOL!

Thanks, great info! Its really interesting how "master growers" and what they know all seems to contradict itself in a real life setting. For better or worse it looks like we are going DWC with this grow, Ive read some of the waterfarm diary's and it looks like it can really work, not sure where it went wrong for us.

 

[Tobor the 8th Man]

Some guys really do great with the DWC modification. They still have two different techniques being used at the same time. They have the roots in the hydroton that are drip feed and need ph and temps for a soilless drip medium and roots submerged in solution DWC which requires ph and cool temps. You would be better off filling the waterfarms so the solution covered the hydroton too. Then you would have all the roots in the same DWC environment.

Here is another issue. The pump and drip rings are designed to have whatever the amount of water the waterfarm holds. When you allow the roots to completely fill the bottom they take up space. When this happened to me I noticed the drip rings were just sputtering out a scant amount of water. When I took everything out when the roots were out there was only a half gallon or so of water in there even though the fill tube indicated it was full. The roots displaced the water giving a false impression of being filled. There isn't as much water to be pumped up top and the roots in the bottom don't have as much to drink. The last part might be off set by having a control res though because it would just keep filling.

Here are some pics of my waterfarm/PowerGrower grow. It was done under a 250w HPS and yielded 14 ounces (I self claimed the 250w world record). It was 10 bucks a month for electricity ($25 total for 2.5 month flower) and $30 for GH Flora nova Grow, Bloom and Micro 3 pack for 14 ounces of The White. That would be about $70 to produce a pound. I did 3.5 lbs under a 750w Lumatek in a 20 gallon megaGrower. I never did a 1000w but I think I could scrog an easy 4 lbs.

You didn't find any waterfarm diaries like this grow. You can make an informed decision on which way to go now that you have seen all the diaries plus my diary.

$10,000 and roundtrip air fair for a person of size from the eastcoast to you and I will spend 2 weeks with you and make you a waterfarm god.

 

[dankworth]

14 oz of the white?
Tobor you are a frickin' stud.
I am going to figure this one out.
I see what I will obsess on for the next few years until it becomes a skillset of mine.

 

[Tobor the 8th Man]

We all have our moments dankworth. The White really seemed to take to the drip system. It was a night and day change for the better with the ones I did and do in soil. The White is the only strain I noticed it with so far. It is just happier in a PowerGrower.

Soil is just more convenient for me. PowerGrowers need constant checking and unless you have a water source in the room where they are at, it is a hassle carrying water. They can use 2-3 gallons a day.

 

[5280Grower]

Wow nice pictures. I didn't embed correctly in last night, here are the pics I tried to post. Gotta leave for work.

starting point (small flowering room still looks like this everywhere)

pic of roots in the larger flower room, started treatment in veg

colas from the pythium factory/small flower room

 

[Tobor the 8th Man]

If you can keep the roots looking like they do in pic #2 above then you just need to keep doing what you did to get them like that. To be able to do that means you are succeeding at controlling the ph, solution temp and everything else. My suggestions were aimed at getting you to a the basic not as much can go wrong method.

With your skill set to maintain the DWC modifications you will be just fine. I guess I won't be getting a job after all. Damn it!!!!!!

 

[singingcrow]

Looking good there! Don't forget pithium gets worse in higher temperature water, so don't let it get too warm, say over 70f. Also change out the rez more often and use a good cleaner like hygrozyme or h202 to clean the bucket. But..looking good!!

 

[5280Grower]

Thanks for the vote of confidence.

Yeah, most of the res starts at 5.8 and swings up to 6.2 before I adjust down. Some strain specific res's are being kept up at 6.4. Water temp is helped by topping off every day with cold incoming water (about 45-50 degrees) so temps stay under 68.

Plants are 3 weeks into flower now, exciting stuff!