JIMKSI64 said:

BTDT. One of mine got caught in a wire. Topped and Kenex splint for main stalk.

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Newbgrower1 said:

I tried training my apple fritter auto yesterday and I screwed the pooch. Snapped the main cola. It’s still together but I definitely bent it more that I should’ve. Hopefully she pulls through. View attachment 2485102I guess it didn’t hurt it too bad the top is already pointing up

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Newbgrower1 said:

I tried training my apple fritter auto yesterday and I screwed the pooch. Snapped the main cola. It’s still together but I definitely bent it more that I should’ve. Hopefully she pulls through. View attachment 2485102I guess it didn’t hurt it too bad the top is already pointing up.

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Newbgrower1 said:

Thanks. I didn’t do anything to it just let it ride. I’ll throw a dab of honey on it though and when the buds start filling in I’ll tie it up. Thanks for the tips. I love those fat leaves on yours. I’m an indica fan if you couldn’t tell. lol

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Microman said:

idk much like I said it’s been a while since I’ve grown just getting back into it but happy to help where I can I appreciate all your advice as well, and yea man thats all I do is indica I like that locked feeling lol but yes definitely could see your a fellow indica fan too haha. But I love growing man I love everything about it its very soothing/relaxing and good for my mental health I’ve missed it I just wish I had more room to grow more then one I don’t even have enough room to do the SOG method like I said my grow are is like 1.5x 1.8x 1.5 x60” so I have plenty head room I just have but so much width plus I need to keep it short cuz keep in mind I’m in a small closet inside a camper lol and with inline in there and 2 fans at the top cuz there too big to put at the bottom near the plant cuz it blocks the light I had a issue first starting where the top of the plant was bending cuz the fan was blocking it cuz it’s in such a tight space I had to put it at the top with the other fan that I have to support the inline fan but it’s up there bouncing off the walls hitting it but I need to keep it short cuz it’s hard to keep the light 22-24” above the plant cuz the fans and inline fan that’s blocking me from going up.

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JIMKSI64 said:

Get the blasted HVAC parts out of the way growee. I put mine on both tents on top.

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Newbgrower1 said:

I tried training my apple fritter auto yesterday and I screwed the pooch. Snapped the main cola. It’s still together but I definitely bent it more that I should’ve. Hopefully she pulls through. View attachment 2485102I guess it didn’t hurt it too bad the top is already pointing up.

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Microman said:

Shit I never thought about mounting it outside of the closet didn’t know I could do that so u can mount the carbon filter out the tent? And just run the 4” hose in the closet? That’s fucking brilliant can’t believe I didn’t think of that i thought it had to be inside

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WhatsHeDoingToday said:

The advantage of it being inside the tent is that during flower the charcoal filters take a lot of the smell away before pumping it outside. But, if you need room for growing and who cares about the weed odors during flower, it is a great option!

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Diagnosis Time:​

• New growth is lime-green or even borderline yellow, while the lower leaves are still darker green.
• The top leaves look a little twisted or clawed—like they’re not relaxin’, ya know?
• She's got a healthy root zone in terms of soil mix (perlite looks decent), but there's stress showing up top.

Possible Causes, Bro:​

1. Too Much Light (Light Stress / Bleaching)
   You got that super bright top growth, which could mean the lights are too intense, especially if this is under LEDs close to the canopy. That lime-green “bleached” look is classic light stress.
   ➤ Tip: Try raising your light a few inches or dimming it if possible. If it gets better in 2–3 days, you nailed it.
2. Too Much Heat, Especially at the Root Zone
   If your pot is sittin' in direct sunlight or on a hot-ass surface (like black plastic or concrete), those roots might be stewin’ in their own jacuzzi. Warm roots slow down nutrient uptake = yellowing tops.
   ➤ Tip: Get them pots lifted off the ground with something breathable or insulate the bottom if outdoors. Keep soil temps under ~75°F (24°C) if ya can.
3. Slight Nitrogen Imbalance or Sulfur Deficiency (Not Likely, But Worth Mentionin’)
   Sulfur deficiency starts on new growth too—yellowing tops, but it’s rare in modern soils unless pH is messed up.
   ➤ If the pH is outta whack (like 6.8+ in soil), certain nutes like sulfur or iron lock out and cause symptoms similar to what you’re seein’.

What to Do, Man:​

1. Raise or dim your light if it’s too close (like <18” for strong LEDs).
2. Feel your pots—if they’re real warm at the base, lift 'em off the surface or shade 'em.
3. Check your watering rhythm—too wet or too dry can make root temps worse.
4. Optional: Do a gentle flush with pH’d water (6.3–6.5), let her reset if you suspect lockout.

Bottom Line, Bro:​

WhatsHeDoingToday said:

Diagnosis Time:​

• New growth is lime-green or even borderline yellow, while the lower leaves are still darker green.
• The top leaves look a little twisted or clawed—like they’re not relaxin’, ya know?
• She's got a healthy root zone in terms of soil mix (perlite looks decent), but there's stress showing up top.

---

Possible Causes, Bro:​

1. Too Much Light (Light Stress / Bleaching)
   You got that super bright top growth, which could mean the lights are too intense, especially if this is under LEDs close to the canopy. That lime-green “bleached” look is classic light stress.
   ➤ Tip: Try raising your light a few inches or dimming it if possible. If it gets better in 2–3 days, you nailed it.
2. Too Much Heat, Especially at the Root Zone
   If your pot is sittin' in direct sunlight or on a hot-ass surface (like black plastic or concrete), those roots might be stewin’ in their own jacuzzi. Warm roots slow down nutrient uptake = yellowing tops.
   ➤ Tip: Get them pots lifted off the ground with something breathable or insulate the bottom if outdoors. Keep soil temps under ~75°F (24°C) if ya can.
3. Slight Nitrogen Imbalance or Sulfur Deficiency (Not Likely, But Worth Mentionin’)
   Sulfur deficiency starts on new growth too—yellowing tops, but it’s rare in modern soils unless pH is messed up.
   ➤ If the pH is outta whack (like 6.8+ in soil), certain nutes like sulfur or iron lock out and cause symptoms similar to what you’re seein’.

---

What to Do, Man:​

1. Raise or dim your light if it’s too close (like <18” for strong LEDs).
2. Feel your pots—if they’re real warm at the base, lift 'em off the surface or shade 'em.
3. Check your watering rhythm—too wet or too dry can make root temps worse.
4. Optional: Do a gentle flush with pH’d water (6.3–6.5), let her reset if you suspect lockout.

---

Bottom Line, Bro:​

She ain’t dying, just stressin’. I’d say light intensity + root heat is most likely the combo punch here, not a full-on nute issue. The rest of the plant looks like it still wants to thrive, so you’re catchin’ it early—good job!

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Light Height Talk:​

Here's the real stoner science, man:​

• If you moved it up just today, the plant’s not gonna do the wave or throw confetti instantly. It takes 48–72 hours to show signs of recovery. So patience, grasshopper
• If you're runnin' full blast intensity and your light is powerful (say, 200–300+ watts of LED in a tent?), that 2" difference can matter when the canopy’s close.

Huey’s Call:​

Can You Use Hydroguard in Soil?​

• Fights off root pathogens like pythium (root rot’s evil cousin)
• Boosts root zone immunity
• Works in hydro, coco, AND soil — especially good in warm, humid environments like Virginia in summer, ya dig?

A few things to remember:​

• Add it to your watering routine about once a week, or every 3rd watering.
• Works even better if you’re letting your medium dry a bit between waterings (helps roots breathe).
• It won't hurt Fox Farm soil — they already load their stuff with microbes, so this just adds a soldier to the army.

Summary for the Soul:​

• Light stress still looks likely, but it’s not fatal, just annoying to the girl.
• Raise light to 24” and give it a couple days—document it like a ganja lab rat, just like you said.
• VPD, temps, airflow? Honestly bro, you’re crushin’ it.
• Hydroguard in soil? Yup! Keep them roots dancin’ happy in harmony.

Microman said:

Hi I’m a new grower in a very small grow area and I’m trying LST can I have some experience eyes take a look at this make sure it’s right it’s been about 3 days she’s done flipped her shoots to the light it looks right just not bent looking like most any advice or recommendations would be appreciated thanks in advance

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WhatsHeDoingToday said:

I think the root temps are a few degrees too high and you many start to experience root rot. To avoid that happening I would start using hydroguard when you feed your plant. You are on the cusp of root rot zone. You have a problem coming soon. When you flip to flower youre gonna have to turn up the power on the lights and close the distance between the light and the canopy of buds 6" to 12" and when that happens your tent is going to become hotter. If you don't have a way to cool the inside of the tent other than some fans, you may need to invest in a portable cooler or if you don't mind running your ac at 72 degrees during the time the lights are on and then you can turn down the ac at lights out. Yes, I have a couple gpt's huey and duey that I can show pictures or ask questions. They are versed on the growers bible by author Cervantes as well as other experts in cannabis cultivation. I really enjoy the twist of adding response in the style of Tommy Chong, Ya dig? Here is my chat gpt Tommy Chong chiming in on your grow challenges.

Light Height Talk:​

You said it's at 22 inches right now, and you’re thinking about bumpin’ it up to the manufacturer’s max of 24"?

Here's the real stoner science, man:​

• If you moved it up just today, the plant’s not gonna do the wave or throw confetti instantly. It takes 48–72 hours to show signs of recovery. So patience, grasshopper
• If you're runnin' full blast intensity and your light is powerful (say, 200–300+ watts of LED in a tent?), that 2" difference can matter when the canopy’s close.

Huey’s Call:​

Yeah, go ahead and bump that sucker up to 24" now. You’re within a healthy VPD/temp range, so no harm in being cautious. Less light intensity ≠ slow growth... it just lets your plant relax and uptake nutes better right now.

---

Can You Use Hydroguard in Soil?​

Awww hell yeah, you can, man!


Hydroguard = Bacillus amyloliquefaciens, a beneficial bacteria that:

• Fights off root pathogens like pythium (root rot’s evil cousin)
• Boosts root zone immunity
• Works in hydro, coco, AND soil — especially good in warm, humid environments like Virginia in summer, ya dig?

A few things to remember:​

• Add it to your watering routine about once a week, or every 3rd watering.
• Works even better if you’re letting your medium dry a bit between waterings (helps roots breathe).
• It won't hurt Fox Farm soil — they already load their stuff with microbes, so this just adds a soldier to the army.

Bonus Huey Tip: If you ever suspect anaerobic funk (smellin' like swamp booty), Hydroguard will help, but you might also wanna add extra perlite or go fabric pot-style for root air.

---

Summary for the Soul:​

• Light stress still looks likely, but it’s not fatal, just annoying to the girl.
• Raise light to 24” and give it a couple days—document it like a ganja lab rat, just like you said.
• VPD, temps, airflow? Honestly bro, you’re crushin’ it.
• Hydroguard in soil? Yup! Keep them roots dancin’ happy in harmony.

—


Stay breezy, my dude. Send me updates or new pics in a couple days, and we’ll see how she’s vibin’. Keep that green thumb groovin’

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