main-line topping best method

geologic · Jan 4, 2014

Lookin' good indeed;
I'm surprised they started alternating so early--
what variety???...

caregiverken · Jan 5, 2014

geologic said:
Lookin' good indeed;
I'm surprised they started alternating so early--
what variety???...

Thanks Geo :) Those are Forum cut GSC X Ewok(f2) (albert walker X tahoe alien)
I call it ewookie :)

clockworx · Jan 5, 2014

caregiverken said:
Thanks Geo :) Those are Forum cut GSC X Ewok(f2) (albert walker X tahoe alien)
I call it ewookie :)

Ewok is a great plant, that's why your cookie monster is stackin early....

caregiverken · Jan 5, 2014

clockworx said:
Ewok is a great plant, that's why your cookie monster is stackin early....

I agree ewok is a great plant! I made F2's with two different phenos :)

geologic said:
Lookin' good indeed;
I'm surprised they started alternating so early--
what variety???...

Some of the other crosses are doing it just on one side
this is Sourbubble...

.....^^^can I skip a node?^^or should I just chop all that nice new growth off?
she is a fatty :)

clockworx · Jan 5, 2014

Yea you can skip a node, just skip it and cut it on both sides so growth will be even....

geologic · Jan 5, 2014

So, is the early "stacking" <that's a new term for me> strictly strain-related--
or maybe photoperiod-related too???...

clockworx · Jan 5, 2014

geologic said:
So, is the early "stacking" <that's a new term for me> strictly strain-related--
or maybe photoperiod-related too???...

Its a sign of plant maturity and genetic, expression of the trait will vary according to pheno. In this case it was passed to the specific seed by the ewok. How often it will express itself depends on if its a dom or recessive gene ....

geologic · Jan 5, 2014

I had read things like "it's stacking good" an' such in some indoor threads,
but the only light I use is the sun so I didn't pay a whole buncha attention to 'em;
had a pretty good idea of what it was referring to--
thanx for the clarification...

Seamaiden · Jan 5, 2014

geologic said:
Addendumb:

I also suggest you run a test group that isn't tied down.

Without assistance they naturally form a _V_ shape,
tied down you are forcing them into a _T_ shape.

Come next September/October ~64-128 mainstems are going to weigh quite a bit, 'specially after a rain.

Which of those shapes is better for load bearing???

I don't know--
needs investigating...

IME the V will be more sure to split, and further down, than a 90* angle coming off the mains. That said, Hortonova.

clockworx · Jan 5, 2014

geologic said:
I had read things like "it's stacking good" an' such in some indoor threads,
but the only light I use is the sun so I didn't pay a whole buncha attention to 'em;
had a pretty good idea of what it was referring to--
thanx for the clarification...

Its when the plant shifts node structure and sets that tight alternating pattern, when the nodes are a 1/2 inch apart all the way up the stem during bud set would be a nice stack.....people just pay closer attention to it growing indoors because it requires good light and proper feeding during transition to keep it tight, outdoors the sun is strong and people don't worry about plant structure as much....

geologic · Jan 5, 2014

Seamaiden said:
IME the V will be more sure to split, and further down, than a 90* angle coming off the mains. That said, Hortonova.

Hummm, I been doin' that a long time,
with big heavy-when-wet plants <in the past>
and the only time I had a split there was--
playin' around <tying down> an "espalier" experiment this year...

Seamaiden · Jan 5, 2014

I get splits every year if I don't get them wrapped up in the Hortonova. Assuming it rains every year. I guess I should qualify that as I get splits every year it rains. We're on our third super-dry winter, so...

geologic · Jan 5, 2014

I reckon everybody's plants and situations can be--
different...

clockworx · Jan 5, 2014

Yea there are so many factors that come onto play with split stems. Total leaf mass, stem fiber content, branch length, bud density, wind, rain.... you could have two tall plants with a ton of leaves and bud on both and on a windy rainy day the only difference in one flopping over and splitting and one not might be solid and hollow stems.....I was reading the other day on hollow stems and they found plants better adapted to windy regions tend to have hollow stems, a hollow cylinder shape is lighter, stronger and can hold weight 10x better than solid branches....solid branches tend to flop and twist easily....then I remembered back to science class days when I had to make something strong from sheets of paper that could hold weight the best and it was always paper rolled into a cylinder , its also the reason eggs are so strong...sorry just felt like sharing that, I think its kinda cool....

indogro · Jan 5, 2014

clockworx,

I am setting up a new garden and trying to determine my method.

I am doing 6-1k watts in a line, with 4x5ft trays. 4 plants per light. Total of 24 plants. My ceilings are only 7ft. tall, so I want to keep my canopy low.

My plan has been to scrog, which I am new to, to keep canopy low and increase yeilds. I usually get 2+ with large plants at 9 per light, where I would do a very similar topping method with 8-12 leads. But never focused on the "main-line" part of it. This is where it seems to be different.

Would you have any opinion on whether scrog vs. mainline topping? which is better/yeild more at 4 per light? each plant will 5 sq. ft, and I'd like to pull down 2oz per sq. ft.

I have quality in the bag. 100% organic and perfect environment. Now I am just looking for the method that could yield me more per watt. I'm focused on achieving 1g per watt.

I was about to build my scrog frames, (each plant would have it's own 2x2.5ft square), but if main-line topping could do just about the same thing, I could avoid having to build the nets and frame, etc.

thank you for spreading the knowledge.

clockworx · Jan 5, 2014

@indogro , honestly that would be to much work for me personally to mainline that many plants, and as far as scrog goes, my personal opinion is that its too much veg time and work. I think scrog is great for people with a plant count but if I was you and using trays in a row, I would just setup a flood and drain , start plants kinda small , get a res or 2 and let the system do the work.....it will yield more, your veg time will be cut down and it gives you time to work in your garden...I run a flood n drain now and just toss plants in and timers do all the work, it allows me to have time for my two 4×8 organic bloom tents and veg room.....if I wasn't doing that flood as my main room I would never have time to prune and feed my plants , ever....

indogro · Jan 5, 2014

I am limited to a max of 24 plants. and since I can fit 6-1kw, it comes to 4 per.

When I say trays, I mean just the size of each light coverage. Plants are on the ground in soil.

I have nothing but time to work in my garden. My last setup was 24-1k!! so this new setup is going to be light years easier, even with all that topping.

The amount of work aside....I guess I was curious if you thought main-lining could match a scrog yeild. given all other factors are consistent and equal.

at 4 per light, I was going to flower in 10-15gal pots.

clockworx · Jan 5, 2014

O ok,,,,,I forget who I was telling, but getting more yield is all about your yield to time ratio.....if you get 1 gpw but your veg is twice as long due to scrog veg time than your really only getting .5 gpw....I would do 4 per light, decent size indica strain, large pots ,,,,,it will yield more and cut down on time .....I wouldn't do scrog if I was looking for a fast turn around....

indogro · Jan 5, 2014

I should also mention I have a separate veg area, so I can stay perpetual. I can veg for 9 weeks easily, all from clone.

it seems though, you would prefer main-lining to scrog in almost any scenario. gonna have to give it a try!

clockworx · Jan 5, 2014

Yea man, I've ran both styles and the larger plants with a fast turnaround time beats scrog in the long run every time .....I've been growing for a very long time and scrog is a method I would never run again, under any circumstances ..it way too much work for less.....I spend time getting a massive root system in large pots, 8-9 weeks bloom, harvest , and the next ones go in same day after a clean up....and I pull 2lb off each 600 with a large yielding strain (4) 8oz plants or (6) 4oz plants 24oz ( this is my norm) and I never got those numbers scroging....not as far as time is concerned ....I could do.a run and a 1/2 in the time it takes to do one good scrog...

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main-line topping best method

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