Frostynugman
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No your just making water molecules latch on to the essential oils and creating a Flux in temp to purge which is effective but does not get nearly any butane out of there. If you did the flare test on that stuff it would shine dude. That unpurged stuff is horrible for your throat and lungs. @Capulator it doesn't take 1000s in equipment you can go to harbor freight and buy a 3cfm pump. Gauge and tubing and a plexiglass top for a stainless steel pot for under 250. Do it your game will step up and concetrate will fly off the shelf. Not to mention I bet the shatter from your nuggets are outrageous. I literally blow and scrape then purge and let it sit. Just spend the 250 man trust me. Don't get me wrong you can spend 1750 on an ai oven and go baller but this was made in a pot purge at one of my other houses. Works like a charm can only hold about a zip but it's a personal stash. Much lovebeen playin this 4 a minute so I be ready to teach.
your method is sound and you are right keep your temps under 100. i prefer to watch the last few minute of boil off closely ( hot plate, water vessel, around 95-100f) then transfer and vac at temps between 85-- 95 f . a stainless steal blow chamber will let you get a better pack and better pressure. Coffee filters are shit, sorry, 50 micron stainless screen are the way to go. LOW TEMPS == SHATTER.
other methods involve tens of thousands of dollars in equipment and still rely on a basic premise.
cold = shatter as temps rise you get a taffy(100 - 120)
then a thick goo (120-140)
then oil(to f#@kin hot).
add water and you get a crumbly waxy mess that never dries out.
yes winterizing with ever clear will work but is not necessary.
Peace and good luck.
View attachment 452239 View attachment 452240 The KEY>>> is starting material.
I have heard many different methods of making shatter that is stable at room temperature and shatters without bending, and that it can also just be a strain dependent situation. I will post my current process of making BHO - I am resulting in a slightly under 10% yield, using only trim/sugar leaf and small airy popcorns that were unfit for dispensaries. I am getting great color/clarity/smell - have yet to taste it as I am on a smoking break for another month, but reviews are good. Only problem is I am getting a pull and snap consistency. I am trying to find a reliable method of making shatter that actually will snap and SHATTER at room temp, like glass.
Currently running broken down trim/popcorn at about 1 can per oz of material, in a glass extraction tube, densely but not packed to the MAX pressure. Then putting into a electric skillet holding hot water (not boiling but steaming/simmering) floating my pyrex for maybe 3 or 4 minutes, until most reaction stops. (I think this might be where I am exposing the wax to too high of temps, going to do another run keeping this heat bath temps at around 100 degrees.) Then scraping and transferring to parchment - inserting into vac chamber and vaccing at -28inhg sometimes it gets all the way to -29.9inhg at ROOM temperature. After wax has muffined and popped as much as it will (usually only about 5 minutes) i then add heat to the extraction chamber keeping the temperature around 100-105 degrees. Sometimes i have caught it getting to about 112 degrees but not for very long, I am refining my method to be able to reliable sustain it at temps 98-105 degrees. It will sit in this vacuumed and heated state for about 24 hours, then releasing vacuum and letting it sit on heat for another 12 to 24 hours.
As I said the result is a very light pretty clear honey/amber colored glassy wax that is pull and snap consistency at room temperature. I am still new to the extracting process although I have done much research and have found varying reports. Any critique/info is greatly appreciated, but please be respectable.
View attachment 415800 View attachment 415801
first picture is just holding it, second one is holding it up to the light, it shattered because it was in the freezer. Thanks again for the input everyone. I strive in making quality healthy medicine
Good fresh material starts out as a carboxylic acid, which is brittle at room temperature.
It can be softened by the presence of residual solvent, high levels of monoterpenes acting as a solvent, and by decarboxylation.
A good -29.5" Hg vacuum purge, below 120F reliably produces an aromatic shatter for us.
You can heat to 115F for a long time without seriously decarboxylating fresh material, and 135F for shorter while.if the oil has been heated up to 115f permanent and shortly 135 cause i was impatience, do i then not have the opportunity to get a shatter ?
The cannabinoids are produced in their carboxylic acid forms by the plant, which means the molecule has an extra carbon atom, with two oxygens and a hydrogen atoms attached, called a Carboxyl group (COOH).what does decarboxylation mean ? you take out the carbon from the material so it wont stick ?
it is really heavy in the smell and darkish yellow golden in the color. It has become really stick and when it has been in room temp for a while, i can touch it without anything stick to my finger.
it was extracted with a passive closed loop system and then purged on a heatpad and whipped like crazy to get the bubbles away.
i have now melted 5 grams of high grade wax into it, but it is still not hard enough to snap .:S
what am i doing wrong ?
should i winterize it ?
Shatter is carboxylic acid. It starts out that way, and softens through processing.
If the starting material is still young, we reliably get shatter by purging at 115F and -29.5" Hg until the solvent bubbles stop.
I run all my nugs andShatter without a vac is hard if not impossible but you can make some nice wax without a vac, just low and slow in the oven, still terpy and flavorful, this was a nug run thoughView attachment 508467
What is de waxingDe waxing should help
What is de waxing
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