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Making Shelf Stable Organic Fertilizer

  • Thread starter Thread starter The_Greenist
  • Start date Start date Sep 28, 2024
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Making Shelf Stable Organic Fertilizer

The_Greenist Sep 28, 2024 43 Replies 5,806 Views
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Natep

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#21
The_Greenist said:
I just want an excuse to try some mad scientist things that most people don't do on a home scale level.
Click to expand...
Go harvest imo. That is some weird science stuff.
 
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The_Greenist

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#22
I will in about 10 weeks.
 
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Natep

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#23
The_Greenist said:
I will in about 10 weeks.
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Where you going to harvest from?
 
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The_Greenist

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#24
Making bone meal ash?
 
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Natep

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#25
The_Greenist said:
Making bone meal ash?
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I’ve cooked bones till they are super char. Then desolve in vinegar. Call It water soluble calcium and phosphate.
 
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The_Greenist

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#26
Natep said:
I’ve cooked bones till they are super char. Then desolve in vinegar. Call It water soluble calcium and phosphate.
Click to expand...
Phosphate seems to be the hardest organic fertilizer to find in good levels.

Seabird guano will probably break down easier then bone, just have to control ph.
 
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The_Greenist

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#27
The alcalase I'm getting is feed grade...just go heavier on the hydrolysis like 1:1?
 
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The_Greenist

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#28
I canceled my overseas order because they jacked the shipping price up.

Going to to go technical grade alacase, can't find resources about it breaking down guano though.

Dry amendments are great but I'm thinking a lot of it never gets used by the plant.
 
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7munkee

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#29
Natep said:
What about making fermented plant juice?
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I've kept FFJ for almost two years. After its done fermenting, just stir as much molasses into it as you can to make it real thick. Thin it down with water/tea before using.
 
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The_Greenist

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#30
7munkee said:
I've kept FFJ for almost two years. After its done fermenting, just stir as much molasses into it as you can to make it real thick. Thin it down with water/tea before using.
Click to expand...
I feel like Tea only gets it to a certain point before the alcohols form and things get sour.

Enzymes will cut that all out.

At what point is it organic or not.

Just seems way more efficient, with Enzymes it can cook for longer.

Pulling out a Tea bag is unused organics.
 
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The_Greenist

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#31
Ashing out bone meal.
 

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The_Greenist

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#32
Natep said:
I’ve cooked bones till they are super char. Then desolve in vinegar. Call It water soluble calcium and phosphate.
Click to expand...
Does this need to be charred more?

Still kind of sticky.
 

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7munkee

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#33
The_Greenist said:
I feel like Tea only gets it to a certain point before the alcohols form and things get sour.

Enzymes will cut that all out.

At what point is it organic or not.

Just seems way more efficient, with Enzymes it can cook for longer.

Pulling out a Tea bag is unused organics.
Click to expand...
I use the tea to thin down my thick condensed FFJ right before I use it. I use two tablespoons off FFJ per gallon of tea. Lol, my FFJ is almost as thick as honey!
 
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The_Greenist

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#34
7munkee said:
I use the tea to thin down my thick condensed FFJ right before I use it. I use two tablespoons off FFJ per gallon of tea. Lol, my FFJ is almost as thick as honey!
Click to expand...



I ground up one lemon and two limes in the ash hoping the citric acid will break it down further.

This is more like jam then honey lol.
 
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The_Greenist

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#35
Top jar is raw bone meal in humic acid.

Bottom jar is bonemeal char in citric acid.

Both with similar consistencies.

Not sure what I'm trying to do here but It will be interesting to take ph levels and compare both after they sit for a bit.

Going to run a trial of these with another pure bone meal and a control over a two week period and see what happens.

 
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Zzzax

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#36
Hello.

I am an organic soil grower.
I keep guinea pigs and their "work-product" gets screened and mixed with previous soil. The point of that is to encourage the development of humus.
Humus is rich in nutrients and helps soil retain moisture. It is a complex material that varies in composition, color, and odor depending on the organic sources, soil fauna and flora, and environmental conditions.
I don't use chemical based fertilizers so the evolution of the soil is close to a natural situation. I also can put soil in the compost tumbler, add new materials and "fire it up" to recycle. The idea is that natural biology will keep things healthy.

Anyway back in California I did as this thread aims to do but since it is very low humidity in California I was able to brew a liquid and let it evaporate in the Summer heat outside.
Once it was dry I scraped the dry stuff and made powder.
I would then add that powder to the watering mix and nothing bad happened.

So one way to make something we can keep on a shelf a long time is making a brew such as a manure based liquid with other things such as fish emulsion, liquid kelp, azomite and I can't remember everything except I did experiment with black solder fly larvae and the liquid that they generate so I added a lot of that too.
It was a lot of work and I ended up with a 5 gallon bucket of powder.
I saw that it did wonders for regular garden plants.
I couldn't say it was special for the medical plants because I was into watering with a mix of stuff including Coffee from fresh grounds. Be careful it's a lot of nitrogen in brewed coffee.
But I thought to mention that we can make a powder from liquid stuff and that will last for years.
As has been shared already to really know what the N-P-K of it is requires that it be tested as a fertilizer and not a soil amendment. I don't remember what they call it but they vaporize the sample and filter for a fertilizer and not just a soil sample.
I wouldn't put the effort into such a thing again but it was interesting for one Summer.
 
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7munkee

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#37
Zzzax said:
Hello.

I am an organic soil grower.
I keep guinea pigs and their "work-product" gets screened and mixed with previous soil. The point of that is to encourage the development of humus.
Humus is rich in nutrients and helps soil retain moisture. It is a complex material that varies in composition, color, and odor depending on the organic sources, soil fauna and flora, and environmental conditions.
I don't use chemical based fertilizers so the evolution of the soil is close to a natural situation. I also can put soil in the compost tumbler, add new materials and "fire it up" to recycle. The idea is that natural biology will keep things healthy.

Anyway back in California I did as this thread aims to do but since it is very low humidity in California I was able to brew a liquid and let it evaporate in the Summer heat outside.
Once it was dry I scraped the dry stuff and made powder.
I would then add that powder to the watering mix and nothing bad happened.

So one way to make something we can keep on a shelf a long time is making a brew such as a manure based liquid with other things such as fish emulsion, liquid kelp, azomite and I can't remember everything except I did experiment with black solder fly larvae and the liquid that they generate so I added a lot of that too.
It was a lot of work and I ended up with a 5 gallon bucket of powder.
I saw that it did wonders for regular garden plants.
I couldn't say it was special for the medical plants because I was into watering with a mix of stuff including Coffee from fresh grounds. Be careful it's a lot of nitrogen in brewed coffee.
But I thought to mention that we can make a powder from liquid stuff and that will last for years.
As has been shared already to really know what the N-P-K of it is requires that it be tested as a fertilizer and not a soil amendment. I don't remember what they call it but they vaporize the sample and filter for a fertilizer and not just a soil sample.
I wouldn't put the effort into such a thing again but it was interesting for one Summer.
Click to expand...
I also have 2 Guineas. They produce more pellets than I can use. I use it straight up...cage to planter. Their manure is just like a rabbit or a deers. Ready to use immediately no composting required. The used woodchips go into my veggie garden weekly.
 
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The_Greenist

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#38
The more I have been reading about adding straight enzymes vs. fermentation with lactobacillus it seems very intensive to get the right enzyme mixture made up.

Lactobacillus seems to create very little alcohol and chews through a lot of things if conditions are right.

Indoor growing with dry amendments just doesn't make sense to me unless your soil is already cooked or your Veg time is really long and would seem hard to stop nitrogen at flower if it's just continually releasing.
 
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The_Greenist

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#39




Thinking this will work.
 
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7munkee

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#40
The_Greenist said:
View attachment 2305161

View attachment 2305162

Thinking this will work.
Click to expand...
I use the DTE seabird guano 2 weeks before flower usually.
 
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Replies 43
Views 5,806
Started Sep 28, 2024
Latest post Oct 19, 2024
Starter The_Greenist
Forum Nutrients and Fertilizers

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