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Mimed’s Perpetual Thread

None flowering. Tent is 18/6. The 2 toxic blue clones were mature and showing female preflowers when I originally cloned them. But yes. Potting soil and well water. And no ph down for the 8.0 ph well water as it is only 150 ppm total mineral content. And...
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Mimed’s Perpetual Thread

by MIMedGrower · Started Mar 8, 2019
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Beachwalker

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#481
MIMedGrower said:
None flowering. Tent is 18/6. The 2 toxic blue clones were mature and showing female preflowers when I originally cloned them.

But yes. Potting soil and well water. And no ph down for the 8.0 ph well water as it is only 150 ppm total mineral content.

And they were topped and then the tallest branches were topped again. I found topping this pheno worked best. I have seen amd run her before. Well it was close enough and has the purple striping on the stem and sour berry / fuel smell.

We will see if she performs as well as the one I ran for tests and side by sides a coupke years ago.

Here she is the Toxic Blue mom.

She was bent in week 1 never topped. She is out of control and all tied up for dicipline!

View attachment 870653View attachment 870654
Click to expand...
Not sure I'm understanding, are you saying you do not pH adjust your water for your soil grows? Spectacular plants by the way, you were an inspiration for me to begin growing shorter plants!
 
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MIMedGrower

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#482
Beachwalker said:
Not sure I'm understanding, are you saying you do not pH adjust your water for your soil grows? Spectacular plants by the way, you were an inspiration for me to begin growing shorter plants!
Click to expand...


Thanks very much Beachwalker.

And no. I dont ph the well water or nute mixtures.

I also never feed more than 1.5 ec or 750 ppm. And i feed every watering once needed.

I didnt ph in pro mix hp either.

I was told to stop by the breeder of these plants.
 
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Beachwalker

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#483
MIMedGrower said:
Thanks very much Beachwalker.

And no. I dont ph the well water or nute mixtures.

I also never feed more than 1.5 ec or 750 ppm. And i feed every watering once needed.

I didnt ph in pro mix hp either.

I was told to stop by the breeder of these plants.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the explanation, can I ask how big the pots you normally use are?
 
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MIMedGrower

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#484
Beachwalker said:
Thanks for the explanation, can I ask how big the pots you normally use are?
Click to expand...


Sure. Those are all started in 18oz plastic cups. Then to a 1 gallon nursery pot then about a week before flowering a 3 gallon nursery pot.

Most plants are vegged 6 weeks total on average.
 
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UncleRomulus

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#485
Learning is taking place woot woot
lunarob said:
your "ph swing" phrase..interesting always...how the swing allocates and disperses nutrients in a much wider spectrum...sometimes hot...sometimes not..like a rhythym..Different animal than the precise ph environ of soilless...I can see how pinpointing and coaxing out sweetspots for different strains must be captivating. But soil seems more manageable when you have varied strains at different stages at once.
Click to expand...
Your going to be an excellent grower fast imo. I never weighed my growing style against what medium to use really. I have been using ‘more hardcore’ soilless mix. Just being honest here. Deep down the reasons I use it is I want the dankest results beside hydro because I have too many power outages here and short on space to do hydro. It would appear (unless I blatantly ignore what’s in front of me) that I might be better off with nice “slow” soil mix as opposed to “wannabe hydro” especially for my style or getting carried away with all the different strains and that. If I went hydro but continued with my variety and madness it would be an absolute nightmare. Seeing the results @MIMedGrower is Gettin from soil is a testiment that it is not “slow” using soil and you can grow big greeeeasy buds just keepin em healthy
 
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MIMedGrower

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#486
lunarob said:
your "ph swing" phrase..interesting always...how the swing allocates and disperses nutrients in a much wider spectrum...sometimes hot...sometimes not..like a rhythym..Different animal than the precise ph environ of soilless...I can see how pinpointing and coaxing out sweetspots for different strains must be captivating. But soil seems more manageable when you have varied strains at different stages at once.
Click to expand...


The ph in the root zone swings in soiless or water culture too. Just with no lime or peat stabilizing the ph it needs to be set in the proper range.


With my water i still would not need to ph in hydro. A decent dose of nutes tends to keep my ph 5.5-6.5 ph so i would not adjust the mix.

And the plants can uptake wider range than the range going around the forums in that ph chart posted everywhere.

If we look to greenhouse nutrient guides meant for commercial production you will not see much about ph. The info always concerns water alkalinity and ppm/ec.


Water Quality: pH and Alkalinity : Greenhouse & Floriculture : Center for Agriculture, Food, and the Environment (CAFE) at UMass Amherst

Recently, some growers have expressed concern about the "high pH" of their irrigation water and its potential adverse effects on plants. The purpose of this article is to allay some of these concerns by pointing out the difference between "high pH" and "high alkalinity".
ag.umass.edu


Here is an article that explains why adding chelated micro nutes (like cal mag) is not effective solution. And that proper fertilizer and fertilizatuon is the answer.


Managing Highly Alkaline Irrigation Water - Greenhouse Product News

Ornamental growers have long struggled with managing growing media pH. Maintaining correct growing media pH is critical for many crops especially if production time is greater than six to eight weeks. Today, numerous popular crops have difficulty absorbing iron especially when pH levels in...
gpnmag.com
 
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Phylex

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#487
MIMedGrower said:
The ph in the root zone swings in soiless or water culture too. Just with no lime or peat stabilizing the ph it needs to be set in the proper range.


With my water i still would not need to ph in hydro. A decent dose of nutes tends to keep my ph 5.5-6.5 ph so i would not adjust the mix.

And the plants can uptake wider range than the range going around the forums in that ph chart posted everywhere.

If we look to greenhouse nutrient guides meant for commercial production you will not see much about ph. The info always concerns water alkalinity and ppm/ec.


Water Quality: pH and Alkalinity : Greenhouse & Floriculture : Center for Agriculture, Food, and the Environment (CAFE) at UMass Amherst

Recently, some growers have expressed concern about the "high pH" of their irrigation water and its potential adverse effects on plants. The purpose of this article is to allay some of these concerns by pointing out the difference between "high pH" and "high alkalinity".
ag.umass.edu


Here is an article that explains why adding chelated micro nutes (like cal mag) is not effective solution. And that proper fertilizer and fertilizatuon is the answer.


Managing Highly Alkaline Irrigation Water - Greenhouse Product News

Ornamental growers have long struggled with managing growing media pH. Maintaining correct growing media pH is critical for many crops especially if production time is greater than six to eight weeks. Today, numerous popular crops have difficulty absorbing iron especially when pH levels in...
gpnmag.com
Click to expand...

I'm still dumbfounded about not PH'ing your water. But it obviously works for you and that's awesome. I'm not convinced it would work for me to even try it. At least not until I was in a straight medium. I run a mix of soil, coco, perlite and the coco is ph'd to 6. I think that would play a huge role in my success. It might work for me if I was in 100% soil. My water is right around 220-250ppm and 7.5 out of the tap. Your ppm's are also much lower. Which is another reason why it may not work for me. A perfect example of what works for some, may not work for others.

And I have plenty of other things I'm taking from your style anyway. lol
 
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MIMedGrower

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#488
Phylex said:
I'm still dumbfounded about not PH'ing your water. But it obviously works for you and that's awesome. I'm not convinced it would work for me to even try it. At least not until I was in a straight medium. I run a mix of soil, coco, perlite and the coco is ph'd to 6. I think that would play a huge role in my success. It might work for me if I was in 100% soil. My water is right around 220-250ppm and 7.5 out of the tap. Your ppm's are also much lower. Which is another reason why it may not work for me. A perfect example of what works for some, may not work for others.

And I have plenty of other things I'm taking from your style anyway. lol
Click to expand...


According to my research 250 ppm is the highest acceptable that will work as source water. It would require extra runoff to help dissolve the calcium amd wash away. Or you could just add ro water mixed in until 150 ppm amd not worry about it.

How is your coco set to 6.0 ph? Lime?

And why do you mix mediums?


Show me a legit info source that is not a marijuana blog or forum that instructs to adjust the ph of nute mixtures.


Its made up and bro science.


Do the amazing gardening gramdmas i see with massive veggies and flowers in containers have a ph kit?

Or do they use the hose on the side of the house like everyone.
 
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Phylex

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#489
Coco, I don’t know. The package just says it’s ph’d to 6.0. I never looked into it further.

As far as mixed mediums, I borrowed that idea from another good grower when trying to find “tricks” of the trade. I found it in their grow diary. They’ve since stopped using that but I bought my coco in bulk. So I’m running it until my coco is gone. You and I have discussed this before. I plan to run straight soil once the coco is gone.

As far as ph’ing the nutrient mix. That’s all I’ve ever read or watched. Hundreds of hours spent reading and watching. All of the charts of optimal Ph for nutrient uptake etc. Of course, all from cannabis related sources. I didn’t go school for botany nor study the subject. I haven’t even read anything that wasn’t related to growing cannabis. That’s where I received that from.

I never discredited you or said what you were doing was wrong. In fact, it’s quite the contrary. You’re obviously doing things the right way for what works for you and your conditions. Your plants show that and I respect your opinion on subject matter.

I just said it probably wouldn’t work for me. Maybe it’s bro science, but I’ve read plenty that suggest growing in DWC, or coco, requires a lower ph. So considering 40% of my medium is coco, while not needing excessively lower ph, I figure it needs to be lowered some rather than treating it like 100% soil and letting the soil buffer it.

My first grow I was ph’ing to 6.5-6.7. I had issues. I lowered it to 6.2 and things got better. Granted it was my first grow. So maybe the early issues weren’t all ph related, but that was a suspect cause. Also, I purchased homemade, in-house, medium from the hydro shop for my first grow. I didn’t learn until the end of my grow that is was a soil/coco blend with other additional amendments. So technically, I’ve never grown in straight soil yet. But it is in my future plans like mentioned above.

I’ve had far less problems this run ph’ing to 6.2 from the beginning in relation to my first grow. I’d be hesitant to change that now. Not to mention I have a whole set of other variables that are new to me and I’m trying to learn. Like the switch from HPS to LED and a change in nutrients all together.
 
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MIMedGrower

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#490
Phylex said:
Coco, I don’t know. The package just says it’s ph’d to 6.0. I never looked into it further.

As far as mixed mediums, I borrowed that idea from another good grower when trying to find “tricks” of the trade. I found it in their grow diary. They’ve since stopped using that but I bought my coco in bulk. So I’m running it until my coco is gone. You and I have discussed this before. I plan to run straight soil once the coco is gone.

As far as ph’ing the nutrient mix. That’s all I’ve ever read or watched. Hundreds of hours spent reading and watching. All of the charts of optimal Ph for nutrient uptake etc. Of course, all from cannabis related sources. I didn’t go school for botany nor study the subject. I haven’t even read anything that wasn’t related to growing cannabis. That’s where I received that from.

I never discredited you or said what you were doing was wrong. In fact, it’s quite the contrary. You’re obviously doing things the right way for what works for you and your conditions. Your plants show that and I respect your opinion on subject matter.

I just said it probably wouldn’t work for me. Maybe it’s bro science, but I’ve read plenty that suggest growing in DWC, or coco, requires a lower ph. So considering 40% of my medium is coco, while not needing excessively lower ph, I figure it needs to be lowered some rather than treating it like 100% soil and letting the soil buffer it.

My first grow I was ph’ing to 6.5-6.7. I had issues. I lowered it to 6.2 and things got better. Granted it was my first grow. So maybe the early issues weren’t all ph related, but that was a suspect cause. Also, I purchased homemade, in-house, medium from the hydro shop for my first grow. I didn’t learn until the end of my grow that is was a soil/coco blend with other additional amendments. So technically, I’ve never grown in straight soil yet. But it is in my future plans like mentioned above.

I’ve had far less problems this run ph’ing to 6.2 from the beginning in relation to my first grow. I’d be hesitant to change that now. Not to mention I have a whole set of other variables that are new to me and I’m trying to learn. Like the switch from HPS to LED and a change in nutrients all together.
Click to expand...


You said it in the beginning of the comment. They have since stopped using it.

Im not suggesting you change anything.

Im suggesting you read elsewhere. Like premier horticulture learning center (pro mix). Tons of articles with real science meant for food and flower producers.


Blog | PT Growers and Consumers

Welcome to our Knowledge Zone, the professional growers’ blog! Find expert advice to perfect your cultivation practices.
www.pthorticulture.com


I learned tons in that link. Have to fish around for articles that you are interested in.
 
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Phylex

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#491
My conundrum is the time I learned they’ve stopped using it, I already purchased the coco. Rather than be wasteful, I’m using up what I have until I try straight soil.

I believe this is the one and it does look like it was lowered with limestone.

And thanks for the link
 

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MIMedGrower

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#492
Phylex said:
My conundrum is the time I learned they’ve stopped using it, I already purchased the coco. Rather than be wasteful, I’m using up what I have until I try straight soil.

I believe this is the one and it does look like it was lowered with limestone.

And thanks for the link
Click to expand...



Its fully charged coco. Bet its better on its own as it seems to be made to be a stand alone medium. Should feed for a few weeks too.

The lime doesnt lower the ph it raises it back up to the measured amount. So since coco is not acidic like peat i guess the fertilizers lower the ph for balance. Then your feeding program would continue to keep the ph swing in range.

And your water is in a possibly problematic range and could feasibly raise the ph over time with its alkalinity.

But i would try unadjusted and meter the runoff over time to see how it goes. Then only add acid if neccessary. And i would feed every time once needed to help balance things out.
 
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FTCG

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#493
Yay, I'm caught up. Finally. Sorry for all the likes @MIMedGrower

I have learned quite a bit over the last two days, and for sure my garden will benefit.

Also everyone else here chiming in, good information.

@MIMedGrower I have come to the conclusion, that with each seed you sow, every plant vegged and flowered, what you are truly cultivating is a better grower in all of us.

Thank you for showing this valuable process.
 
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MIMedGrower

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#494
FTCG said:
Yay, I'm caught up. Finally. Sorry for all the likes @MIMedGrower

I have learned quite a bit over the last two days, and for sure my garden will benefit.

Also everyone else here chiming in, good information.

@MIMedGrower I have come to the conclusion, that with each seed you sow, every plant vegged and flowered, what you are truly cultivating is a better grower in all of us.

Thank you for showing this valuable process.
Click to expand...


Wow thanks so much! But again. I just take it a plant at a time and hope to improve my results each grow. I like the discussions that have erupted in here too. Super knowledgable folk around here.
 
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UncleRomulus

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#495
MIMedGrower said:
Wow thanks so much! But again. I just take it a plant at a time and hope to improve my results each grow. I like the discussions that have erupted in here too. Super knowledgable folk around here.
Click to expand...
Maybe keeping it simple isn’t so simple for some I guess haha
@Phylex bro. I’m finishing out my coco also. I’ve been using 50 percent. Your mix (being soil and 40% coco) might work just fine with what mimed is taking about. Especially once your rootball gets all established. It’s balanced with lime. Try with one test plant, but the basic strategy can be just like mimeds example but you have diff water source/quality and diff nutes etc. So it’s not that we must do exactly as the sansei does, but apply his wisdom and basic philosophy to what you got going on. By the way it looks to me like they are tryin to discontinue the pure blend pro.. maybe trying to push the kind line? Whatever tho. Something like 4-3-4 Npk or even 20-20-20 with some decent tap or well water, by mimeds teachings will do the plant better in flower than 4-12-10 or other such bloom ratios and fancy elixirs and pk boosts.
 
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MIMedGrower

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#496
UncleRomulus said:
Maybe keeping it simple isn’t so simple for some I guess haha
@Phylex bro. I’m finishing out my coco also. I’ve been using 50 percent. Your mix (being soil and 40% coco) might work just fine with what mimed is taking about. Especially once your rootball gets all established. It’s balanced with lime. Try with one test plant, but the basic strategy can be just like mimeds example but you have diff water source/quality and diff nutes etc. So it’s not that we must do exactly as the sansei does, but apply his wisdom and basic philosophy to what you got going on. By the way it looks to me like they are tryin to discontinue the pure blend pro.. maybe trying to push the kind line? Whatever tho. Something like 4-3-4 Npk or even 20-20-20 with some decent tap or well water, by mimeds teachings will do the plant better in flower than 4-12-10 or other such bloom ratios and fancy elixirs and pk boosts.
Click to expand...


Kind base and grow bottles are an excellent alternative. The base is only calcium nitrate and the rest plus seaweed extract is in tje grow bottle. Following directions gives the 3-1-2 ratio recomended for foliage plants. And you can taper the nitrogen/calcium during ripening if needed. Thats what they nean by customizable.

The bloom with the base was 4-6-6 i believe and we liked working with the grow only better.

I use pure blend pro because its only one shot to measure and if i need mrs mmg to mix nutes she doesnt mind that. But when i need a dropper to measure out 2 bottles she protests.

Flavor was cleaner with kind and earthier with pbp. If that makes sense.

Also the pbp is easy to get here. In stores and online.
 
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MIMedGrower

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#497
Last night stuff.


Blue Lemon Thai




 
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MIMedGrower

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#498
Plushberry has had cuttings and more than a week to get rooted in her final pot before 12/12.

She is acclimating to the 600’s and higher wind.

I start new plants in the flower room about 25”-29” from the light and move up gradually as they get used to it.

 
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MIMedGrower

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#499
And i transplanted the 2 Toxic Blue 33 clones up to 3 gallon pots.



The Herijuana Jack 33 seedling in back is growing nicely.

And a bunch of cuttings of toxic blue amd plushberry are trying to root in glasses of water front right in pic.

When the heri is transplanted up to a 1 gallon I will plant a new seed too.
 
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MIMedGrower

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#500
Oooops!

I have been letting all the pots dry out an extra day for a few weeks now. Seems i was overwatering the new to me soil mother earth groundswell which has tons of perlite in it. It tricked me.

All has been fine with very little leaf drooping but it has been much hotter last few days and i have not started air conditioning yet and i did not expect.........

This.


So I didnt want to fertilize on dry soil as the ec will already be high due to the lack of water so I poured in a half gallon of fresh water slowly and let her absorb it a while.

Then i mixed a medium dose of pure blend pro grow and slowly in steps poured in a gallon of nute mixture.


Buds seem unaffected. The top most leaves had only drooped half way.


Wait and hope I guess. I figured about 2 more weeks to harvest.

On the plus side. With the bti from the mosquito dunk water. The yellow sticky cards and the much drier pots i only see one or two gnats now. And i never discarded the infected soil. I actually kept using it.

I wanted to prove to myself gnats get out of control from overwatering plants.

Im sure now.
 
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