I'm running Massive and Green Planet Finisher. Seems to be working well but I'm running them in conjunction with Cutting Edge 3 part. I'm pretty happy with it. Maybe its the mix of GH with the GP. BUT: when people have weird phantom deficiencies happen that are perplexing, check your roots for root aphids. Necrosis, weird yellowing of leaves, could be RA's. For your sake I hope its not. But check it out. Good luck.
Also, you want to check your ppm's with Massive. Sometimes you need to come down from 20 ml. Overferting is common with all this stuff.
Epsons will not fix that as its for an Mg deff.
:worried
That's not a Nitrogen deficiency. An foliar epsom will give the plants necessary Mg and sulphur, even if the Mg is locked out from too much K in the soil.
Another thing to consider when using chem nutrients in soil is toxic salt buildup- I battled it forever when I used chems in soil. If the soil in your pots is crusted with white powder or hard as a rock, it's toxic salt buildup.
Anyone else notice the burn on many the leaf tips? If it's not burning from the light, it's burning from nutes... This could be a combination of pH lockout & nute burn. Do you have a proper soil pH test?
Ya they are for sure getting enough N. Should I drop it down?
I will check the pots for build up. Maybe should switch to the GH organics line.
Yes a bit of burning on tips. Not sure why, when it's nit that much food. I don't have a proper soil ph test, but I will get one. Can I do it with a nuts ph probe? I have read that you can mix a certain amount of water and soil and get a good idea of what the soil is at.
Luda is the man! Who else is gonna help you grow dank. :evilgrin0040:
IMO its a tad of overfert/lockout. When hand watering, sometimes we hit them a little too hot when the medium is a little too dry, can cause some root friage and hurts nute uptake, causing plant to feed off its leaves
being too close too,the bulbs seems I always have an area of a plant that is really close to a bulb yellow fast
That is not a nitrogen deficiency. It's molybdenum deficiency which can often look like or mimic a nitrogen deficiency. In a nitrogen deficiency the whole leaf yellows, and starts from the bottom of the plant. Molybdenum starts in the middle of the plant, not at the bottom like nitrogen, it causes the leaf tips to yellow inward and necrosis to develop from the tips inward often curling up, as well as purplish leaf discoloration. Molybdenum is needed by the plants for chemical changes associated with nitrogen nutrition and enables the plant to use nitrogen taken up from the soil. When molybdenum is insufficient the nitrates accumulate in the leaves and the plant cannot use them to make proteins. The plants become stunted with symptoms similar to nitrogen deficiency. The edges of the leaves will become scorched by the accumulation of unused nitrates. A molybdenum deficiency is rarely seen at a ph of 6.0 or above because the plant needs very little of this element, but an acidic ph will lock it out. Speaking from experience, if you have an 8 or 9 week strain, you should be okay, if you have a longer growing strain your plants will suffer horribly if you don't get your ph corrected.
I'm not 100% sure on how to calculate this correctly, can you let me know?
I pH my nutrients to 6.6-6.8 using Roots Organic soil (with a little extra dolomite lime), and the pH in the soil stays around 6.4-6.5. When straight watering, I don't pH- the water I use hovers right around 7. Soil test kits are pretty inexpensive at a garden center (maybe not at the hydro shop, tho). I never trusted a soil probe after the first few uses; I seem to jack 'em up somehow. But they are available.
If you're using straight Promix HP, it has been anywhere from 4.8 - 5.5 out of the bag, it's usually around 5.5. Straight Sphagnum Peat Moss can be anywhere between 3.5 - 4.5 so the manufacturer is adding lime to bring it up to 5.5, depends on the bale you get, sometimes it's right on, sometimes not. Since this is not a hydro grow, you'll still need to bring it up into the 6.5 range, if you're completely soilless though I think you can hover around 6.0 and avoid nutrient lockouts. If you're not adjusting your medium with dolomite or something prior to planting, then that's probably where your problem is. You definitely need to ph your water and medium otherwise it's just a guessing game. With a grow the size you're doing, I don't think I would want to leave it to chance. Good luck though, hope you get everything worked out.
Oh, and I too have not had any luck with the soil probe type ph testers, I never got a reading other than 7. The soil test kits from the garden centers seem to work just fine though and are cheap enough.
I admit, I am a lazy farmer! I switched to a living organic soil, now I just set it and forget it, watering is all I do...it makes me and my plants happy!:)
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