Need help diagnosing yellowing, droopy plants

Yoda707 · May 9, 2022

I need help diagnosing my plants symptoms. Recently transplanted beautiful bumped up clones from 3.5” pots into 5 gal pot six days ago.
Plants now are looking stunted, yellowing tops, bottom leaves curling up and dying, overall look droopy and sad.

I’m using Cutting edge solutions fert and Procision soil (2nd use) under Gavitas.

My first suspicion is simply that they are overwatered and that’s causing a nute lockout, though I’m also concerned there may be a soil ph issue or salt buildup, or something worse like fusarium, which I had in this room in the past have since removed and sterilized all equipment and surfaces.

I ph the nutrient water but have not tested the runoff. I’ve heard Promix tends have a high ph and this Procision soil is a Promix knockoff.

Any thoughts of the cause of these symptoms? Am I right about possible overwatering?

NorthernOrganics · May 9, 2022

Describe your watering habits.

The peat will break down and go acidic. Did you flush and rebuffer the mix before reusing? I've reused promix based organic soils, re-ammended and buffered. I think using peat with hydro nutes would leave the medium salty and acidic, hard to reuse. Also, you said you had fusarium in that room, was it the last run in that peat? Pics in more natural light?

Aqua Man · May 9, 2022

Looks like its waaaay to hot and to much light with warering issues

Yoda707 · May 9, 2022

Aqua Man said:
Looks like its waaaay to hot and to much light with warering issues

I bumped up under T4 then transplanted under 1000w Gavitas turned down to 600w for 3 days and they are now at 750w. Temp is 75degrees.

Aqua Man · May 9, 2022

Yoda707 said:
I bumped up under T4 then transplanted under 1000w Gavitas turned down to 600w for 3 days and they are now at 750w. Temp is 75degrees.

Get an ir temp gun cause those leaves are cooking.

How are you watering and what media?

Shaded_One · May 9, 2022

750w on little baby plants??? Get yourself a PAR meter

Yoda707 · May 9, 2022

NorthernOrganics said:
Describe your watering habits.

The peat will break down and go acidic. Did you flush and rebuffer the mix before reusing? I've reused promix based organic soils, re-ammended and buffered. I think using peat with hydro nutes would leave the medium salty and acidic, hard to reuse. Also, you said you had fusarium in that room, was it the last run in that peat? Pics in more natural light?

This is only my 2nd time using this Promix type soil so no I did not do those things you mentioned. 2nd run with this soil and All I did was remove root balls and roots and refluffed soil and watered in.

Dirt was very dry from start and struggled to get it watered in properly without dry spots. I ended up hand mixing the dirt again to make sure dirt was evenly moist and not too dry or too saturated in spots. But still think I over watered in the end after transplanting. Haven’t watered since transplanting last Tuesday.

I’ve grown for years but in new to the Promix and salt based nutrient combo.
This same issue happened the last run too but soil was brand new. Plants came out of it eventually but had some issues. Product came out nice but not fire.

In terms of fusarium, I took everything I could out of room, including dirt, beds, lights, replaced filters, etc. very thorough, but still possibility of reinfection so it’s always a concern.

Back to ph and Promix, would it be of benifit at this point to try and amend soil with top dressing of Dolomite?

Shaded_One said:
750w on little baby plants??? Get yourself a PAR meter

Theyve been bumped up for 3 weeks under T4s then transplanted under Gavitas with lights at 600 for a few days now at 700.

Yoda707 · May 9, 2022

Aqua Man said:
Get an ir temp gun cause those leaves are cooking.

How are you watering and what media?

Canopy temp Sat 75 degrees. Procision soil (Promix). Watered in at transplant.

Shaded_One · May 9, 2022

Yoda707 said:
This is only my 2nd time using this Promix type soil so no I did not do those things you mentioned. 2nd run with this soil and All I did was remove root balls and roots and refluffed soil and watered in.

Dirt was very dry from start and struggled to get it watered in properly without dry spots. I ended up hand mixing the dirt again to make sure dirt was evenly moist and not too dry or too saturated in spots. But still think I over watered in the end after transplanting. Haven’t watered since transplanting last Tuesday.

I’ve grown for years but in new to the Promix and salt based nutrient combo.
This same issue happened the last run too but soil was brand new. Plants came out of it eventually but had some issues. Product came out nice but not fire.

In terms of fusarium, I took everything I could out of room, including dirt, beds, lights, replaced filters, etc. very thorough, but still possibility of reinfection so it’s always a concern.

Back to ph and Promix, would it be of benifit at this point to try and amend soil with top dressing of Dolomite?

Theyve been bumped up for 3 weeks under T4s then transplanted under Gavitas with lights at 600 for a few days now at 700.

600w or 700w is not an accurate measurement of light. All I can tell you is that a 600w light at full intensity would probably be too much light for seedlings in veg. You want like ~500 PAR and 15-30k LUX right about now. Anything above that is massive overkill and will cause symptoms similar to nutrient issues.

Shaded_One · May 9, 2022

"Back to ph and Promix, would it be of benifit at this point to try and amend soil with top dressing of Dolomite?"

Promix is self buffering. You are only doing yourself a disservice by trying to amend the pH of Promix growing medium. If you are reusing or reamending the product that's where my knowledge runs dry.

Yoda707 · May 9, 2022

NorthernOrganics said:
Describe your watering habits.

The peat will break down and go acidic. Did you flush and rebuffer the mix before reusing? I've reused promix based organic soils, re-ammended and buffered. I think using peat with hydro nutes would leave the medium salty and acidic, hard to reuse. Also, you said you had fusarium in that room, was it the last run in that peat? Pics in more natural light?

I used strait water last week of my last run. But did not add any amendments, only removed roots and refluffed soil.
I’m not new to growing but am new to promix type soil and salt nutrient combo.
I had this same thing happen last run with this same soil but it was brand new then. I thought my issue was from possible dry pockets in soil but that is not the case this run.

And some plants look good but most do not. Tried identifying what was different about the good plants but couldn’t.

In terms of fusarium, I removed everything from room including dirt, equipment, etc and sanitized thoroughly.

Aqua Man · May 9, 2022

Yoda707 said:
Canopy temp Sat 75 degrees. Procision soil (Promix). Watered in at transplant.

Not air temps… leaf temps

Aqua Man · May 9, 2022

Shaded_One said:
600w or 700w is not an accurate measurement of light. All I can tell you is that a 600w light at full intensity would probably be too much light for seedlings in veg. You want like ~500 PAR and 15-30k LUX right about now. Anything above that is massive overkill and will cause symptoms similar to nutrient issues.

Right on brother And this being if they are healthy which id say is a stretch

Aqua Man · May 9, 2022

Also are they on a cool floor?

GreatWhiteBud · May 9, 2022

Looks at the color of the stem it's pretty red, you might have either CA/Mg deficiency.

Also the light color of the leaves sugests plants are a little hungry.

I find with an organic grow that top soil supplementation is where it's at, organic=living soil.

e.g. Soil is micro organism rich in order to breakdown and recycle raw nutrient sources.

I found that best practice is to first for me an organic top dress fertilizer, they are available in veg and flower compositions, then according to the label fertilize once a week turning the top soil when you do.

Keep in my mind that a good organic top dress fertilizer should have low N:P:K ratios, the idea being a slow release via decomposition.

I also found that employing 2 to 3 worms per pot pre plant really accelerates the decomposition process of the fertilizer, they also help aerate the soil and they take care of dead roots.

You could focus on identifying the immediate plant needs and solving that, then try amending you soil with mycorrhizae and add a couple worms.

Yoda707 · May 9, 2022

Aqua Man said:
Also are they on a cool floor?

No they are in raised beds in pots

Aqua Man · May 9, 2022

Yoda707 said:
No they are in raised beds in pots

Ok then definitely to much light is part of it. Remember light stress is directly related to plants health and its very clear your have a transpiration issue and leaf temperature issue

Shaded_One · May 9, 2022

Sorry if I missed this but, what are you using for pots?? Those look like garbage bags with rolled over edges.

Yoda707 · May 9, 2022

Shaded_One said:
750w on little baby plants??? Get yourself a PAR meter

PAR meters, do you have one you recommend? Anything specific I should know about before buying?

Yoda707 · May 9, 2022

Shaded_One said:
Sorry if I missed this but, what are you using for pots?? Those look like garbage bags with rolled over edges.

5gal plastic pots

Need help diagnosing yellowing, droopy plants

Need help diagnosing yellowing, droopy plants

Yoda707

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