Yoda707 said:

PAR meters, do you have one you recommend? Anything specific I should know about before buying?

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GreatWhiteBud said:

Looks at the color of the stem it's pretty red, you might have either CA/Mg deficiency.

Also the light color of the leaves sugests plants are a little hungry.

I find with an organic grow that top soil supplementation is where it's at, organic=living soil.

e.g. Soil is micro organism rich in order to breakdown and recycle raw nutrient sources.

I found that best practice is to first for me an organic top dress fertilizer, they are available in veg and flower compositions, then according to the label fertilize once a week turning the top soil when you do.

Keep in my mind that a good organic top dress fertilizer should have low N:P:K ratios, the idea being a slow release via decomposition.

I also found that employing 2 to 3 worms per pot pre plant really accelerates the decomposition process of the fertilizer, they also help aerate the soil and they take care of dead roots.

You could focus on identifying the immediate plant needs and solving that, then try amending you soil with mycorrhizae and add a couple worms.

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GreatWhiteBud said:

Looks at the color of the stem it's pretty red, you might have either CA/Mg deficiency.

Also the light color of the leaves sugests plants are a little hungry.

I find with an organic grow that top soil supplementation is where it's at, organic=living soil.

e.g. Soil is micro organism rich in order to breakdown and recycle raw nutrient sources.

I found that best practice is to first for me an organic top dress fertilizer, they are available in veg and flower compositions, then according to the label fertilize once a week turning the top soil when you do.

Keep in my mind that a good organic top dress fertilizer should have low N:P:K ratios, the idea being a slow release via decomposition.

I also found that employing 2 to 3 worms per pot pre plant really accelerates the decomposition process of the fertilizer, they also help aerate the soil and they take care of dead roots.

You could focus on identifying the immediate plant needs and solving that, then try amending you soil with mycorrhizae and add a couple worms.

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Aqua Man said:

Right on brother And this being if they are healthy which id say is a stretch

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Shaded_One said:

Oh man welcome to the rabbit hole. Do you want to spend $500 or $5?

I bought a cheapo Dr. Meter LED lux meter. You can get the Photone app and pay to unlock the LED feature. Or you can go balls to the wall and buy an Apogee quantum meter and get truly accurate results.

Do these 5gal plastic pots have drainage holes? You will have different(longer) watering periods due to the fact that plastic pots hold saturation for a lot longer. With this comes the risk of root rot so you really need to get your dry cycles on point.

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Yoda707 said:

They definitely have deficiencies but I don’t think it’s due to lack of feeding. They were fed day before transplant with full spectrum food at 50% strength including cal/mag. Also planted with mycorrhiza, and using beneficials pre transplant.


I’m sure it’s not very accurate but I downloaded the Photone lu

yes I downloaded that Photone app for my HPS DE. It’s showing for 700w light lux range from 26000-29000.

Yes pots have drainage holes.

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Yoda707 said:

They definitely have deficiencies but I don’t think it’s due to lack of feeding. They were fed day before transplant with full spectrum food at 50% strength including cal/mag. Also planted with mycorrhiza, and using beneficials pre transplant.


I’m sure it’s not very accurate but I downloaded the Photone lu

yes I downloaded that Photone app for my HPS DE. It’s showing for 700w light lux range from 26000-29000.

Yes pots have drainage holes.

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Aqua Man said:

You want leaf temps around 75-77f any higher without co2 and tou see this happen. NOT ROOM TEMPS. They are not the same… not even close.

Excess light absorbed by the plants is given off as heat so your leaf temps right now based on plant reaponse and transpiration im sure are over 80f.

Then get your watering and nutrients down

I can promise you 100% if you do not lower the light intensity the plants will die. Unequivocally, indisputably DEAD

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42wenty_Blazeit said:

Hey Aqua, does it matter what room temp you're running if the leaf temps are at 75-77f?
for example would it mess with my plants to run my room at; 86F, 53%RH with 77f leaf temps, (0.92 VPD) and without CO2?
late veg

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