[Bode180]

Only my second grow, have 2 gallon fabric pots with a pot for pots superb soil, coco husk, and perlite. About 7 weeks in and have only watered with fox farm nutrients twice (every other water at 1 tablespoon to gallon ratio) and the tips of the one plat have turned yellow while the others lower leaves have yellowed and starting to fall off. There tie so many variables just trying to see if anyone has any feedback on how to correct this and possibly salvage this grow. Thanks for any help, it’s much appreciated.

 

[compostmike]

That is still salvageable. I see lower fade, a bit of tip burn, and small pots that are probably swinging wet/dry and salt strength faster than you’d expect.

If that tablespoon per gallon was Grow Big or Tiger Bloom, that’s pretty hot. Big Bloom is different, but either way with a charged soil mix I’d pause the bottled feed for a watering and read the pot. Plain pH’d water around 6.3-6.5, water slow, get a little runoff if you can, and check pH/ppm. If runoff ppm is high, don’t feed again yet. If it’s low and pH is in range, come back with a light bloom feed, quarter to half strength.

The yellow leaves at the bottom won’t repair, just remove them once they’re fully spent. Don’t chase them with more nitrogen this late, especially with buds already formed. Watch the newest growth and sugar leaves. If those stop burning and the flowers keep stacking, the grow is not lost.

 

[Bode180]

After your reply I reverted back to just water. It was only fed nutrients twice, could it have been that the soil was too hot? I’ve attached some photos of what the plants look like now, don’t know if I’d try 2 gallon pots again. Should be able to harvest soon based of the pictures correct? Also it’s difficult for me to find a place to dry them out, can’t do it in the house. Shed is way to hot and humid, maybe the crawl space under my house? Open to all suggestions, thanks for the help.

 

[Gmix]

Apart from a spare small tent a cupboard or the tent you grew in I don’t know I’d have to look at the place tbh
As for ready to harvest no there not ready at all.
About 2 - 3 weeks left tbh I would lean more towards 3 weeks left
All them fan leaves are dead btw they will probably go brown n crunchy before harvest
I would of fed it back when you first posted kinda to late now
The grow isn’t lost mind you’ll still get some buds back
Good luck

 

[Bode180]

Apart from a spare small tent a cupboard or the tent you grew in I don’t know I’d have to look at the place tbh
As for ready to harvest no there not ready at all.
About 2 - 3 weeks left tbh I would lean more towards 3 weeks left
All them fan leaves are dead btw they will probably go brown n crunchy before harvest
I would of fed it back when you first posted kinda to late now
The grow isn’t lost mind you’ll still get some buds back
Good luck

Thank you. Right now the tent is in my shed which can range anywhere from 85 to 95 degrees with 50-75% humidity depending on the day and how hot it is, don’t think that will work. Am I waiting for the stigmas to all turn brown and the tricomes to turn cloudy before harvest? Just trying to educate myself on what to look for when it comes to harvesting. Thanks again.

 

[Ninjadogma]

Howdy. You might ask yourself, did I underfeed or overfeed and it may be a little more nuanced than that. Here's a scenario... You go light on your feed but then wind up being short on the volume of water you were using when you watered. Even though the plant is fed light, the salt concentration accumulates in the soil and now the plant is feeding off of salt EC of an unknown nutritious composition. What this gives you is a full combination of "painted nails" suggesting its overfed, pale leaves where its underfed, and yellow leaves where the plant is having calcium and potassium competing for the same cation points because of root stress. As you're smoking some of that weed after harvest and thinking about your next run, think about offering a steady but light delivery of nutrients to the plant, and enough volume of water poured through the medium to move junk out and good in.

Harvest signaling, keep an eye on the hairs first and when they turn from white to orange or brown and there aren't any more fresh white ones coming in, you can begin looking up close under magnification at the trichomes. They are like clear dew drops when they're immature. When most of them appear cloudy or dirty you are in the harvest window.
Another thing that's good to know is the nutrient demand curve so that you're delivering what the plant needs when it needs it but also not wasting your nutrients when it doesn't. I'm going to guess you're roughly around week 5-6 and if so, next week you'll be coming up on peak demand window so they should get their heaviest feed the entire grow, but don't let the root environment climb above 2.5 EC. Best of luck and enjoy smoking that thing in about another month and a half or so.

 

[Bode180]

Howdy. You might ask yourself, did I underfeed or overfeed and it may be a little more nuanced than that. Here's a scenario... You go light on your feed but then wind up being short on the volume of water you were using when you watered. Even though the plant is fed light, the salt concentration accumulates in the soil and now the plant is feeding off of salt EC of an unknown nutritious composition. What this gives you is a full combination of "painted nails" suggesting its overfed, pale leaves where its underfed, and yellow leaves where the plant is having calcium and potassium competing for the same cation points because of root stress. As you're smoking some of that weed after harvest and thinking about your next run, think about offering a steady but light delivery of nutrients to the plant, and enough volume of water poured through the medium to move junk out and good in.

Harvest signaling, keep an eye on the hairs first and when they turn from white to orange or brown and there aren't any more fresh white ones coming in, you can begin looking up close under magnification at the trichomes. They are like clear dew drops when they're immature. When most of them appear cloudy or dirty you are in the harvest window.
Another thing that's good to know is the nutrient demand curve so that you're delivering what the plant needs when it needs it but also not wasting your nutrients when it doesn't. I'm going to guess you're roughly around week 5-6 and if so, next week you'll be coming up on peak demand window so they should get their heaviest feed the entire grow, but don't let the root environment climb above 2.5 EC. Best of luck and enjoy smoking that thing in about another month and a half or so.

I see, that makes sense. That's a very good way to put it, nuanced, the whole process is exactly that. Im actually going into week 11 and both are auto's. Does it come down to grow medium when it comes to the salt retention? If I had a lighter mix is that less of a problem? I appreciate the help and feed back, really do.

 

[Ninjadogma]

I see, that makes sense. That's a very good way to put it, nuanced, the whole process is exactly that. Im actually going into week 11 and both are auto's. Does it come down to grow medium when it comes to the salt retention? If I had a lighter mix is that less of a problem? I appreciate the help and feed back, really do.

I'd say a good way to break it down is trust vs control. With soil there are lots of variables but you have to have trust that there's an ecosystem in there that so long as you treat it right, it'll grow dynamite plants for you without needing to be corrected along the way. If you go soilless, you have an opportunity to remove most variables and you are in full control of the nutrient load the plant receives. The latter sounds scarier than it is. It simplifies a lot of things, including managing the EC load with greater precision.

If you're going hybrid style then going with promix or happy frog or a light blend that starts em off with background nutrition and then mostly just lends structure the rest of the way, not a bad way to go. It's like starting in training wheels and later they come off.

 

[jasonmiller]

The soil may have been a little hot, especially in a small 2-gallon pot where nutrient buildup can hit the roots faster. Going back to plain water was probably the right move.

I’d be careful about harvesting based only on how the plant looks overall though. Check the trichomes if you can. For drying, I’d avoid the crawl space unless you know it stays clean, dark, and within a safe temperature and humidity range. Mold would be my main concern there.

 

[Bode180]

The soil may have been a little hot, especially in a small 2-gallon pot where nutrient buildup can hit the roots faster. Going back to plain water was probably the right move.

I’d be careful about harvesting based only on how the plant looks overall though. Check the trichomes if you can. For drying, I’d avoid the crawl space unless you know it stays clean, dark, and within a safe temperature and humidity range. Mold would be my main concern there.

Looks to me this is in the harvest window but I’m still stuck with drying it out. Would it work by drying it out in a 17 gallon tote and put it in my garage? I stuck a temp and humidity gauge in one and it came back at 75 degrees and 60% humidity. I know that the cut plant will probably increase that humidity number once put in the tote but struggling with ideas on how not to lose this battle so close to the finish line.

 

[Bode180]

Looks to me this is in the harvest window but I’m still stuck with drying it out. Would it work by drying it out in a 17 gallon tote and put it in my garage? I stuck a temp and humidity gauge in one and it came back at 75 degrees and 60% humidity. I know that the cut plant will probably increase that humidity number once put in the tote but struggling with ideas on how not to lose this battle so close to the finish line.

 

[GNick55]

no such thing as hot soil especially from a manufacturer,.
most mistaken what they think is hot soil is actually watering too often releasing more nutrients