Hermitian
- 77
- 6
My opinion is that you folks are searching for answers in the wrong places ...
If you want the plant to perform near optimal then it had better be near-optimal from start to finish.
If you want the plant to perform near optimal then it had better be near-optimal from start to finish.
- You'll need 1200 Watts per plant using T5 HO plant spectrum bulbs - at a distance that doesn't fry the plants. Use the general-purpose plant spectrum bulbs and don't get caught up in the red-blue marketing craze. I know it might sound crazy to you, but don't use the HPS, MV, etc. indoors. These are actually manufactured for outdoor light supplement in northern latitudes (Canada, Denmark, Norway, etc.).
- You need use a formula that supplies sufficient potassium to the plant from beginning to end. Use a complete fertilizer (with minors and micros) with N-P-K ratios that are 1 : 1 : 1 or 1 : 1 : 1.5. For example 20-20-20 or 12-12-18.
- At transition time give a one-time supplemental feeding of a phosphate or phosphite source. Phosphites are taken up systemically by plants and have been the mainstay of nut farmers for decades. They would use zinc phosphite, but for the Cannabis crop mono-potassium phosphite is a better choice. Use listed dosages on the product as a maximum. More is not better, and instead means potassium toxicity.
- Through the budding stage feed with dramatically lower proportions of nitrogen. The N-P-K ratios should be something like 1 : 3 : 3 to 1 : 5 : 5. For example, 10-30-30 or 6-30-30. If your fertilizer does not contain seaweed extract for hormonal action, then I suggest 1 teaspoon per every 7 gallons of water.
- If you really feel your customers want a sweeter product (selling to elementary school kids?) then use a carbohydrate product. The best choice is one made from wood sugars such as ligno-sulfate because they are taken up quickly by plants and will not interfere with other growth mechanisms. Molasses collected for human consumption is a not so good choice because Cannabis has to work at ingesting it and it will also invite critter and disease problems. Store-bought bee honey is the worst choice.
- Resist the temptation to use more additives. You risk stressing your plants and introducing unwanted mineral interactions.
- If you really want to push the buds at the end then provide the plants with a very modest supplement of phosphate (not phosphite) source about 2 weeks before harvest.
