Need Help W Yellow Leafs

[tattoojim]

I might be see n shit but, looks like some revegg on the one. With a bonus of mite as mentioned.

 

[KiLoEleMeNt]

I might be see n shit but, looks like some revegg on the one. With a bonus of mite as mentioned.

ya I totally agree its definitely a mutation of some kind me and my buddy both say revegg as well but I do have clones and seed that have done this also so without knowing the whole plant history I could not be certain as long as he lolli it shouldn't matter anyway it will all be gone nice eye tho good lookin

 

[LBCLOU]

Cool sounds good I'm going out side I like that tape placement for pics I need to get them happy

Hello just got done w my ladies pulled a lot of leafs w spots n sprayed them I hope for the best I'll show a pic update tomarw Thxs again fellow farmers have a good one

 

[KiLoEleMeNt]

The same to You as well bud...

A little more detailedinformation

Try and keep in mind what I said in my first post I would not mess around with the weaker safer stuff at this point instead get Some Real killer stuff. (I am only recommending this due to the extent of your infestation) The fastest and most efficient way to kill spider mites is using miticides.

However, people who are growing herbs and vegetables give more preference to natural organic products. Before jumping into any chemical approach it is recommended to use natural/organic methods.

But If you don’t mind using chemical pesticides, then start using them all the time all the way up to two weeks into flower after that you must give them a washing. The alcohol remedy I gave you is good for this I believe you can also buy plant washes but I never have used them before.

However if your health is a concern, this should be the second option. Before starting the battle of all time consider these tips that can help you to choose the right products for spider mites’ elimination.

In saying this I can not stress the next few factors enough about using these type of products. First off you need to know that Some insecticides can cause a population explosion of mites instead of killing them. This depends on the enviroment, the genus of the mite and it's reaction to the particular spray used, Also some Miticides do not affect unhatched eggs leaving a new generation to hatch and repopulate on your plants very quickly. This is why in extreme situations (such as yours) I start the process off with a defoliation and then take the time to wipe them down with a light neem oil mixture, trying my best to remove the bugs with the cloth, while still being extremely gentle so not to push oils in the stomata or crush the cellular walls, doing this won't get u all those suckers off your girls but wheen dome correctly there now is a much better chance of winning the battle after doing so, remember to be light on the mix application,So after doing this if you get a ton of leaf curl you know you hit her too hard with it. But it's okay dont panic just wait one full day and wash her off with a plant wash or ISO mix.

You are also going to need more than just one thing to spray on her I'll explain later in this post. So after Now knowing all this you will most likely need a bit more information to ponder as well to get a better understanding on how they work and what you should choose to use...

One Important thing to concider before a spray... When spraying the plants, Don't forget it has been documented that spider mites don’t like and avoid the light often hanging out on the bottom of the leaves. This is when they move about and migrate to other plants....

So it would be best if Before applying any spray turn the lights off for at least an hour when indoors, or if outside just wait for nite time. The dark will bring these tiny creatures out from their hiding places in the tiny crevices on the plants’ leaves. This will help you to wipe a larger number of them off with greater success and will help you hit them with a spray much easier.

Another good thing to remember whenever you have bugs or are just doing a preventative spray, Make sure you don’t too often use the same killer or sprays containing the same active ingredients.
Applying the same spray repeatedly gives the mite population a good chance to develop immunity. Spider mites can easily and do often develop resistance to some common miticides
I believe that someone said something like this in less details earlier.

So now we know There are many ways to kill spider mites. Using good control products is one of them. Most solutions available on the market are efficient. But not all of them are created equal nor are many of them used correctly by the growers. And thus have negative results and tossed aside.

When keeping this concern you have many options in various forms,Many experienced growers and farmers suggest using Forbid 4 as one your killers no matter the others I too agree this is a good idea. Forbid 4 effectively controls mites on ornamental plants, foliage plants, flowers around commercial and residential buildings. Insecticide Miticide should be sprayed covering the entire structure of the leaf. Forbid 4F will effectively kill spider mites and even their eggs.

These days, many growers use foggers to treat their mite infestation.
Foggers or "bombs" have been proven to be a very efficient approach. If you choose this rout you need to know proper use inside your home or indoor garden.
Before fogging the plants you should do the following: Water all the plants; Close all the windows as well as doors in the area to be fogged; Shut off open flames and pilot lights in the room or growing area. After starting the flow clear the sealed area or entire home of pets of any kind and any person's in the house. Following these steps with this technique, gives best results while still keeping total safety for home and others in mind.

Another great fogger that I have used with great success is The Pyrethrum TR this fogger can be used on vegetables, ornamentals, herbs and other indoor garden plants. This ready-to-use insecticide fogger can that will effectively control and kill spider mites and many other insect pests.


You could also check out Doctor Doom spider mite knockout as a secondary spray. Doctor Doom spider mite knockout is powerful spray and is ideal for complete mites’ eradication. You can use it indoors or outdoors. Doctor Doom spray contains pyrethrin (naturally-occurring insecticide) which is highly efficient to control mites’ infestation on plants. Aerosol is safe to apply on vegetables (Not Herbs) up to one day before harvest.

On a side note.

It is scientifically accepted that all Spider mites can quickly evolve resistance to almost any product you can throw at them. Therefore, It is highly recommend by most experienced growers and product users to have a few different active ingredients as well as implicate new ways of application and methods of offense against them. Keeping a widely varied offense and killer selection is the best variant of successful elimination of these pests.

Me personally I have my grow dialed down to SNS 209 in the rez every first of month for two weeks until I do my usual rez change. I then use organacide as a foliar once every other week at half strength and use the ISO every three days or so due to the limited use I have been on the same quart of organacide and gallon of sns for a very long time (aprox 1 yr) and use mainly the ISO mix. If you forget to do your secondary killer one time don't stress just don't miss it again that's why I run three on my schedule as the other two killers in any direction can make up for the loss of another giving you a complete range of protection and eradication...

These are just notes I have taken down so I would like to make clear that Some of This information has been sourced from other people, books, and websites.
As well as hard work, determination, a ton of trial and error with much loss of
Cash and genetics alike to have finally got everything in check and under complete control 95% of the time in my grows. I hope this will be enough to get you going on your own trial and error but if you still have any other questions you would like to ask me I'm an open book half the time....
I wish you the best in your endeavors.
GLHF

 

[LBCLOU]

The same to You as well bud...

A little more detailedinformation

Try and keep in mind what I said in my first post I would not mess around with the weaker safer stuff at this point instead get Some Real killer stuff. (I am only recommending this due to the extent of your infestation) The fastest and most efficient way to kill spider mites is using miticides.

However, people who are growing herbs and vegetables give more preference to natural organic products. Before jumping into any chemical approach it is recommended to use natural/organic methods.

But If you don’t mind using chemical pesticides, then start using them all the time all the way up to two weeks into flower after that you must give them a washing. The alcohol remedy I gave you is good for this I believe you can also buy plant washes but I never have used them before.

However if your health is a concern, this should be the second option. Before starting the battle of all time consider these tips that can help you to choose the right products for spider mites’ elimination.

In saying this I can not stress the next few factors enough about using these type of products. First off you need to know that Some insecticides can cause a population explosion of mites instead of killing them. This depends on the enviroment, the genus of the mite and it's reaction to the particular spray used, Also some Miticides do not affect unhatched eggs leaving a new generation to hatch and repopulate on your plants very quickly. This is why in extreme situations (such as yours) I start the process off with a defoliation and then take the time to wipe them down with a light neem oil mixture, trying my best to remove the bugs with the cloth, while still being extremely gentle so not to push oils in the stomata or crush the cellular walls, doing this won't get u all those suckers off your girls but wheen dome correctly there now is a much better chance of winning the battle after doing so, remember to be light on the mix application,So after doing this if you get a ton of leaf curl you know you hit her too hard with it. But it's okay dont panic just wait one full day and wash her off with a plant wash or ISO mix.

You are also going to need more than just one thing to spray on her I'll explain later in this post. So after Now knowing all this you will most likely need a bit more information to ponder as well to get a better understanding on how they work and what you should choose to use...

One Important thing to concider before a spray... When spraying the plants, Don't forget it has been documented that spider mites don’t like and avoid the light often hanging out on the bottom of the leaves. This is when they move about and migrate to other plants....

So it would be best if Before applying any spray turn the lights off for at least an hour when indoors, or if outside just wait for nite time. The dark will bring these tiny creatures out from their hiding places in the tiny crevices on the plants’ leaves. This will help you to wipe a larger number of them off with greater success and will help you hit them with a spray much easier.

Another good thing to remember whenever you have bugs or are just doing a preventative spray, Make sure you don’t too often use the same killer or sprays containing the same active ingredients.
Applying the same spray repeatedly gives the mite population a good chance to develop immunity. Spider mites can easily and do often develop resistance to some common miticides
I believe that someone said something like this in less details earlier.

So now we know There are many ways to kill spider mites. Using good control products is one of them. Most solutions available on the market are efficient. But not all of them are created equal nor are many of them used correctly by the growers. And thus have negative results and tossed aside.

When keeping this concern you have many options in various forms,Many experienced growers and farmers suggest using Forbid 4 as one your killers no matter the others I too agree this is a good idea. Forbid 4 effectively controls mites on ornamental plants, foliage plants, flowers around commercial and residential buildings. Insecticide Miticide should be sprayed covering the entire structure of the leaf. Forbid 4F will effectively kill spider mites and even their eggs.

These days, many growers use foggers to treat their mite infestation.
Foggers or "bombs" have been proven to be a very efficient approach. If you choose this rout you need to know proper use inside your home or indoor garden.
Before fogging the plants you should do the following: Water all the plants; Close all the windows as well as doors in the area to be fogged; Shut off open flames and pilot lights in the room or growing area. After starting the flow clear the sealed area or entire home of pets of any kind and any person's in the house. Following these steps with this technique, gives best results while still keeping total safety for home and others in mind.

Another great fogger that I have used with great success is The Pyrethrum TR this fogger can be used on vegetables, ornamentals, herbs and other indoor garden plants. This ready-to-use insecticide fogger can that will effectively control and kill spider mites and many other insect pests.


You could also check out Doctor Doom spider mite knockout as a secondary spray. Doctor Doom spider mite knockout is powerful spray and is ideal for complete mites’ eradication. You can use it indoors or outdoors. Doctor Doom spray contains pyrethrin (naturally-occurring insecticide) which is highly efficient to control mites’ infestation on plants. Aerosol is safe to apply on vegetables (Not Herbs) up to one day before harvest.

On a side note.

It is scientifically accepted that all Spider mites can quickly evolve resistance to almost any product you can throw at them. Therefore, It is highly recommend by most experienced growers and product users to have a few different active ingredients as well as implicate new ways of application and methods of offense against them. Keeping a widely varied offense and killer selection is the best variant of successful elimination of these pests.

Me personally I have my grow dialed down to SNS 209 in the rez every first of month for two weeks until I do my usual rez change. I then use organacide as a foliar once every other week at half strength and use the ISO every three days or so due to the limited use I have been on the same quart of organacide and gallon of sns for a very long time (aprox 1 yr) and use mainly the ISO mix. If you forget to do your secondary killer one time don't stress just don't miss it again that's why I run three on my schedule as the other two killers in any direction can make up for the loss of another giving you a complete range of protection and eradication...

These are just notes I have taken down so I would like to make clear that Some of This information has been sourced from other people, books, and websites.
As well as hard work, determination, a ton of trial and error with much loss of
Cash and genetics alike to have finally got everything in check and under complete control 95% of the time in my grows. I hope this will be enough to get you going on your own trial and error but if you still have any other questions you would like to ask me I'm an open book half the time....
I wish you the best in your endeavors.
GLHF

Good day kilo I got some pics B4 I went to work this morning I took off a lot from both ladies yesterday yr post has help so much I think the 2nd pic the plant was pre flowers on the bottom half n top seemed like reveging is that normal or should I just pull her