New 13 gallon UC Setup In Progress

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U

utopian

13
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So, I took the plunge and purchased the UC12XL13 unit from CCH20. This is a 12 plant system with 13 gallon buckets in the XL configuration supporting 6000 watts total. I have

6000W using (6) 8" blockbuster hoods
Titan Helios 7 Light Timer 240v
Titan Kronus 4 Environmental Control
Carbon Filter 10" x 39" 1400 CFM
(2) Vortex 8"
Advanced Nutes
and a bunch of other stuff...

My biggest delima right now is figuring out how to handle the water for this sytem. It uses 130 gallons at a time during veg and around 80+ during flower. I have an R/O system to get the water, but I'm trying to figure out how I can best store it. This is in a basement. Right now, I'm looking at something like this:
http://www.plastic-mart.com/class.php?item=3581

Does anyone have any suggestions on this water tank? Is there any better/CHEAPER way of handling the water?

Also need suggestions on how to hook this up the R/O to a float valve with a reservoir so the reservoir always stays full without overflowing.

The room is about 200 sq ft. There is an A/C duct going into that room from the rest of the house. The lights are all vented through 8" duct. Will I need an additional A/C unit to keep this room at the right temp? I'm not running CO2. Also, will I need a water chiller?

Any insight/advice would be greatly appreciated!

-Utopian
 
R

RMCG

2,050
48
That's not a bad price on the water tank. Shipping would probably blow though.

New/Clean 55 gal drums are nearly that much.

Look around for the 275 gal square totes. Craigslist, etc.
275_gallon_tote_large3.jpg




Or check out local feed stores, might have animal water tanks that would fit the bill.

As far as always keeping it full, just install a float valve.
 
U

utopian

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Yeah, that 165 tank is $145.00, but shipping is $185.00 for a total of $330.

The local feed store had a tank, but it was over $400.

I will check into the cube tanks though.

Thanks!!
 
M

mcpuffin

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I would source out a used 55 plastic drum (mostly used for pickling things, food grade) or a rain catcher for your top-off Rez. Even Dan at CC has some huge resivors, like 150 gallons, but they're taxed. After you'vedecide what use, you'll have to drill 2 holes, one for the float valve and the other to feed back into your system to keep your ladies happy. When I was running two 10 site under 4000w, I only was only filling up & mixing nutes in the Rez about every 5-7 days, unless your like Ben or Jack and have an Intelledose system, that will do it for you. As for a water chiller, YES, YES, YES!!! Seems like you've spent some serious dough, might as well protect your investment and a water chiller will help with that. Hope this helps.
Btw...I would use something other than Advanced Nutrients. Had a friend using it in a UC & had nothing but problems. I would go with nutrients like Canna, DucthMaster, H&G, but that's my two cents.:smiley_joint:
 
R

RMCG

2,050
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I'm easily going through 10-15 gal/day.

Dutchmaster is damn stable in the UC.

I top up with straight water and only adjust at the epicenter, only very minor 'corrections' needed every few days.
 
C

Casper

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Another homework assignment. I will watch this thread closely!
 
B

BavarianFarmer

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Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question, but with a big 275 gallon res like that how would someone go about mixing the nutes? Thats one thing I always wonder with these huge reservoirs... I guess just poor it in the small hole and try to stir it some? Cause I didn't even think of these till now, but I have access to a bunch of those in metal crates. Booyahh! One more thing to cross off my list! haha I think I'll cut off a good part of the top though so I can get in and clean one.
Thanks!
Bavarian Farmer
 
R

RMCG

2,050
48
Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question, but with a big 275 gallon res like that how would someone go about mixing the nutes? Thats one thing I always wonder with these huge reservoirs... I guess just poor it in the small hole and try to stir it some? Cause I didn't even think of these till now, but I have access to a bunch of those in metal crates. Booyahh! One more thing to cross off my list! haha I think I'll cut off a good part of the top though so I can get in and clean one.
Thanks!
Bavarian Farmer

I would not mix nutes in them.

Just use it as water containment for your R/O system.

Hell, I would just run the R/O system directly to the epicenter on a float.

The only time you need ~that~ much water is on a full res change.
 
B

BavarianFarmer

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I would not mix nutes in them.

Just use it as water containment for your R/O system.

Hell, I would just run the R/O system directly to the epicenter on a float.

The only time you need ~that~ much water is on a full res change.

On the UC website they say to have already the pre mixed water in the reservoir so it will top of the UC system with good to go water. So it is bad to have pre mixed water sitting for a while or something? Even with ro water topping it off also? Maybe I would have an in between 55 gal res with the pre mixed water.

Bavarian Farmer
 
R

RMCG

2,050
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Maybe if I was using something like Lucas formula.

Other than that, everything stays rock solid (ppm/pH) even drinking 10 gallons/day. Really only slight corrections every few days. Just the 2 part, no additives. Maybe a touch of pH correction.
Maybe the plants just transpired a bunch of water that day due to environmental factors, feed changes due to transition stage, etc. who knows, but I would be wary of topping off with full strength water.

Think of it as ~you~ being the autodoser. Monitor the epicenter, not your top-off tank.

Once I've gone through the entire water amount in add backs, I change out the res. Could probably decrease that frequency as well, but I never know where the additives are at, so would rather start fresh then keep dumping in 'extras'.

Besides, what level would you set 275 gallons at? If you are on a feed schedule, its going up each week.
 
B

BavarianFarmer

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Maybe if I was using something like Lucas formula.

Other than that, everything stays rock solid (ppm/pH) even drinking 10 gallons/day. Really only slight corrections every few days. Just the 2 part, no additives. Maybe a touch of pH correction.
Maybe the plants just transpired a bunch of water that day due to environmental factors, feed changes due to transition stage, etc. who knows, but I would be wary of topping off with full strength water.

Think of it as ~you~ being the autodoser. Monitor the epicenter, not your top-off tank.

Once I've gone through the entire water amount in add backs, I change out the res. Could probably decrease that frequency as well, but I never know where the additives are at, so would rather start fresh then keep dumping in 'extras'.

Besides, what level would you set 275 gallons at? If you are on a feed schedule, its going up each week.

That makes sense... and yeah a 275 gallon res could last quite a while long than the current schedule.
Thanks for the info!

Bavarian Farmer
 
opt1c

opt1c

330
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i run my ro filter straight to the uc float... just top off with a lil bit of a/b dutch master at a time to keep the ppms where i want em and it works great; eliminates the res in the room and saves a lot of space... my plants didn't have any nute probs either
 
U

utopian

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This is all very insightful, incredibly valuable feedback. Thank you so much for all of this information. A soon as the system arrives and I get it going (less than two weeks) I will post up on here with pics so everyone can see.

I ended up picking up one of these for $230 shipped.
http://www.plastic-mart.com/class.php?item=3581
 
UClover

UClover

39
8
Instead of allowing the RO to contstantly top off, you may want to shut the RO off and turn it on once a day. As you may know the water coming out isn't always at its finest right when the RO turns on. Allowing it to run for a longer duration once a day as opposed to several times a day will ensure the highest quality water is being added to your system.
 
N

noone88

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.. As you may know the water coming out isn't always at its finest right when the RO turns on. Allowing it to run for a longer duration once a day as opposed to several times a day will ensure the highest quality water is being added to your system.

What do you mean?
 
N

noone88

726
63
If you're running 6k, most likely you won't need to have a nute res to top off your system. Plants consume a lot more water than nutrients. If anything, during the heavy feeding weeks (week 5,6,7), add your bloom booster mid week to reach your desired EC/PPM.
 
motherlode

motherlode

@Rolln_J
Supporter
5,524
313
Sorry if this sounds like a dumb question, but with a big 275 gallon res like that how would someone go about mixing the nutes? Thats one thing I always wonder with these huge reservoirs... I guess just poor it in the small hole and try to stir it some? Cause I didn't even think of these till now, but I have access to a bunch of those in metal crates. Booyahh! One more thing to cross off my list! haha I think I'll cut off a good part of the top though so I can get in and clean one.
Thanks!
Bavarian Farmer


drop a nice 500 gph pump in there to mix the nutes
 
opt1c

opt1c

330
28
Instead of allowing the RO to contstantly top off, you may want to shut the RO off and turn it on once a day. As you may know the water coming out isn't always at its finest right when the RO turns on. Allowing it to run for a longer duration once a day as opposed to several times a day will ensure the highest quality water is being added to your system.

true that and a good idea if you're around to do it; i actually just run the carbon and sediment filters on mine since my ro membrane got all out of whack and i got a bad replacement one; i figure it'll be cheaper to just by a new ro unit if i ever need to than mess with $100 a pop membranes multiple times... gets expensive fast... fwiw my plants were unaffected by the switch
 
A

amstercal

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To RMCG and opt1c and whoever else does this... you run your r/o directly to the epicenter with a float valve, don't have any other kind of top of res and add just basic nutes, no other additives, directly to the epicenter? Do you dilute them before you add or just add a drop at a time or do you find the system mixes so quickly it's not an issue? How often do you add nutes when they're feeding heaviest?
Although I see the good in the simplicity of your system, would having a top off res at 1/2 strength with at least enough for the week allow you to go more days without monitoring if you needed to set up a system with less babysitting?
I like those food totes and they're cheap used and no shipping around here, but how is the whole clear thing? Has anyone using one ever had growth problems? I suppose you could paint them. RMCG--is that why you don't use them for your nutes? Do you think you could with painting?
Sorry for the whirlwind of questions. Great thread.
 
R

RMCG

2,050
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I have an opaque drum hooked up, gravity fed to a float valve directly to the epicenter.

Plain water only.

When topping up nutes, after you have done it a few times, you just sort of get a feel for how much its going to raise ppms. ie add 50ml A+B (straight) into the epicenter, wait 10 mins or so and recheck. It stabilizes pretty quickly if you are circulating properly. Same thing with pH control.

Feeding 'heavy' required an adjustment every ~3 days.
If I wanted to check it less often, I would invest in an auto-doser and never worry about it.

IF I had to go away for a week and a big enough add back res, I might do 1/3 -1/2 strength nutes in it for that week away only.
My add-back res lasts 3 days, so the timing is good for topping up nutes and refilling the top-off res.

If one were to use the square 'pickle' totes, I would definitely paint it (roller, lather it on!), just to make it semi light proof. Maybe leave a strip unpainted to eyeball/verify water levels.
 
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