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New Farmer

Punky0923 May 28, 2022 76 Replies 7,770 Views
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freezeland2

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#21
If the mother was in flower when the clone was cut it will do what is termed reveg. It’s the process the plants go through when transitioning from flowering back to a vegetative state. They grow one and three finger leaves very close to the stalks. They become very bushy and it takes upwards of 6 weeks to return to normal growth.
 
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HaveApuff

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#22
Now that I can see your tent setup, I think your light is to close to the top of your plants, and the leaves are "tacoing". I would move this light up another 12".
As for the rust spots on the sides of some of your leaves, it is probably the result of your spraying mist into the tent and was misted on to some of the leaves with your fan and the lights burned the leaves slightly. Think of it like each small droplet of water acts like a lens and refocuses the light like a magnifying glass and burns slightly the area with lights on. As a rule of thumb, only foliar spray just before lights out
Though I do like to keep the plants RH range near 60% in veg, I don't think your humidity is really a concern at 50-55%, and I wouldn't worry to much. If it is only a few spots now, I wouldn't worry too much about it, but if it should continue to spread, then you might have a concern. So, yeah, maybe you are just a hovering helicopter parent that is flying high!
 
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Punky0923

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#23
HaveApuff said:
Now that I can see your tent setup, I think your light is to close to the top of your plants, and the leaves are "tacoing". I would move this light up another 12".
As for the rust spots on the sides of some of your leaves, it is probably the result of your spraying mist into the tent and was misted on to some of the leaves with your fan and the lights burned the leaves slightly. Think of it like each small droplet of water acts like a lens and refocuses the light like a magnifying glass and burns slightly the area with lights on. As a rule of thumb, only foliar spray just before lights out
Though I do like to keep the plants RH range near 60% in veg, I don't think your humidity is really a concern at 50-55%, and I wouldn't worry to much. If it is only a few spots now, I wouldn't worry too much about it, but if it should continue to spread, then you might have a concern. So, yeah, maybe you are just a hovering helicopter parent that is flying high!
Click to expand...
Well thank you for the input! I appreciate all the help. Yes I did move the lighting up and adjusted slightly on setting for 75%ish percent on your recommendation with lighting. I also added a spout to my water jug so as not to add additional moisture or nutrients where I don’t want them and I will only spray mist if really necessary just before lights out. With turf, time really is of the essence when it comes to fungal outbreaks as the longer you wait the more damage and stress is caused to the plants, takes more pesticide, longer time to heal, etc. So I just may be a little more aware because I’ve never grown plants and I really want this to workout lol. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge on this!
 
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Punky0923

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#24
freezeland2 said:
If the mother was in flower when the clone was cut it will do what is termed reveg. It’s the process the plants go through when transitioning from flowering back to a vegetative state. They grow one and three finger leaves very close to the stalks. They become very bushy and it takes upwards of 6 weeks to return to normal growth.
Click to expand...
Wow, I hadn’t heard of that, very interesting. So this gal was just a clone from Darkheart Nursery but if you are referring to it’s bushiness, that’s just how ya doing. It’s looking pretty good now and actually was really struggling when I first planted.
 
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Punky0923

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#25
Punky0923 said:
Wow, I hadn’t heard of that, very interesting. So this gal was just a clone from Darkheart Nursery but if you are referring to it’s bushiness, that’s just how ya doing. It’s looking pretty good now and actually was really struggling when I first planted.
Click to expand...
* its
 
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Punky0923

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#26
Punky0923 said:
Well thank you for the input! I appreciate all the help. Yes I did move the lighting up and adjusted slightly on setting for 75%ish percent on your recommendation with lighting. I also added a spout to my water jug so as not to add additional moisture or nutrients where I don’t want them and I will only spray mist if really necessary just before lights out. With turf, time really is of the essence when it comes to fungal outbreaks as the longer you wait the more damage and stress is caused to the plants, takes more pesticide, longer time to heal, etc. So I just may be a little more aware because I’ve never grown plants and I really want this to workout lol. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge on this!
Click to expand...
Also is it ok to take off some of the huge lower leaves? Blocks so much light on the lower nodes I thought I should be tidying up. Or is this something to also wait on for now. I don’t know that any are visible on these photos but the Gals are growing so much I had to show a pic
 
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freezeland2

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#27
Punky0923 said:
Also is it ok to take off some of the huge lower leaves? Blocks so much light on the lower nodes I thought I should be tidying up. Or is this something to also wait on for now. I don’t know that any are visible on these photos but the Gals are growing so much I had to show a picView attachment 1249693View attachment 1249692
Click to expand...
Search for threads by Aqua Man. He recently created one on defoliation and why it is done. You should find it helpful.
 
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freezeland2

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#28
Punky0923 said:
Also is it ok to take off some of the huge lower leaves? Blocks so much light on the lower nodes I thought I should be tidying up. Or is this something to also wait on for now. I don’t know that any are visible on these photos but the Gals are growing so much I had to show a picView attachment 1249693View attachment 1249692
Click to expand...
Here you go

How To Defoliate Cannabis Plants For Maximum Yields

Defoliation is a great method for increasing your cannabis yield by removing leaves that block airflow and impede the plant's growth.
www.thcfarmer.com
 
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HaveApuff

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#29
If you are time restricted, as you mentioned earlier, about topping and developing a SCROG then you need to top your plant and start LST to move your growth out to a horizontal growth to be able to control the stretch in the first few weeks in flower as you weave into your trellis....this keeps your canopy more even, but heh, you might get the odd runaway, but that is no big deal, but that is how you learn to make your SCROG successful
As I am following your grow, I want you to be aware of your feeding habits, and what to watch out for....you are feeding every second watering, but something that I have learned from great growers over time is that when you feed your plants in flower, you should never over feed them the ppm that the light wattage you use over your canopy....so, if for example you have your lights at the right height, and you are using 1000 watts of light for example, then your actual feedings combined should not exceed this amount in ppm's during this period of flower...meaning that during the flowering period you should not exceed a 1000 ppm of nutrients during the entire feeding. In other words be careful you do not overload the nutrients into the soil where the roots have not yet reached, so that when they get there they don't burn from a build up up nutrients previously added. In flower, I water, water, feed, in a 3 gallon pot every 4th day....When I do feed i will give a 450 ppm ...giving the plant exactly what it needs, then again 3 watering's I will give another 450 ppm, spreading out the feedings over the time of flower, remembering that I will flush the last 2 weeks, with only magnesium/ sulfur to help the ripening of the plant. Get the notion that you can PUSH a plant out of your mind. A plant will only take what it needs, not what you give it, so go easy and read your leaves. remember, in soil it will take a good 4-5 days to see any results to what you do on day 1, so don't go chasing a problem because it doesn't happen over night
So, let's clean up the bottom of your plants....get rid of the big fan leaves at the bottoms of your plants...this helps prevent insect infestations and other problems that start at the bottom of most plant grows, and starts determining where you want to have your canopy. If lower branches are shorter, train them up to the middle of your plant, and the top branches need to be bent down to a horizontal at the same height so that nodes along those branches can grow upward and help build your canopy...below your SCROG you want no growth as it will not get the light to develop any worth wile bud... it will be larf at best. Also, control any early overfeeding or it will eventually give you trouble near finish, and start shaping your plants for a SCROG now so your plant grows to fill out a trellis. I hope this makes sense to you, as I am really flying a helicopter myself now....but, you can make this work...a SCROG does not happen by itself, but has one of the best yield outcomes if you do what need to be done early
 
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Punky0923

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#30
HaveApuff said:
If you are time restricted, as you mentioned earlier, about topping and developing a SCROG then you need to top your plant and start LST to move your growth out to a horizontal growth to be able to control the stretch in the first few weeks in flower as you weave into your trellis....this keeps your canopy more even, but heh, you might get the odd runaway, but that is no big deal, but that is how you learn to make your SCROG successful
As I am following your grow, I want you to be aware of your feeding habits, and what to watch out for....you are feeding every second watering, but something that I have learned from great growers over time is that when you feed your plants in flower, you should never over feed them the ppm that the light wattage you use over your canopy....so, if for example you have your lights at the right height, and you are using 1000 watts of light for example, then your actual feedings combined should not exceed this amount in ppm's during this period of flower...meaning that during the flowering period you should not exceed a 1000 ppm of nutrients during the entire feeding. In other words be careful you do not overload the nutrients into the soil where the roots have not yet reached, so that when they get there they don't burn from a build up up nutrients previously added. In flower, I water, water, feed, in a 3 gallon pot every 4th day....When I do feed i will give a 450 ppm ...giving the plant exactly what it needs, then again 3 watering's I will give another 450 ppm, spreading out the feedings over the time of flower, remembering that I will flush the last 2 weeks, with only magnesium/ sulfur to help the ripening of the plant. Get the notion that you can PUSH a plant out of your mind. A plant will only take what it needs, not what you give it, so go easy and read your leaves. remember, in soil it will take a good 4-5 days to see any results to what you do on day 1, so don't go chasing a problem because it doesn't happen over night
So, let's clean up the bottom of your plants....get rid of the big fan leaves at the bottoms of your plants...this helps prevent insect infestations and other problems that start at the bottom of most plant grows, and starts determining where you want to have your canopy. If lower branches are shorter, train them up to the middle of your plant, and the top branches need to be bent down to a horizontal at the same height so that nodes along those branches can grow upward and help build your canopy...below your SCROG you want no growth as it will not get the light to develop any worth wile bud... it will be larf at best. Also, control any early overfeeding or it will eventually give you trouble near finish, and start shaping your plants for a SCROG now so your plant grows to fill out a trellis. I hope this makes sense to you, as I am really flying a helicopter myself now....but, you can make this work...a SCROG does not happen by itself, but has one of the best yield outcomes if you do what need to be done early
Click to expand...
Well it sounds like I had better get busy lol. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, I appreciate all the input and info people have shared with me in a short amount of time.
I’ve definitely now been able to look at the progress and understand that I don’t have to try so hard to get these gals to grow, just gotta let them do their thing. As far as nutrients, wow I didn’t even think about it rationally lol, the Romulan is supposed to be a heavy feeder. Now I know to let the plant tell me what it needs in that regard and treat it accordingly. I’ll do a couple before and after photos to see if I got it right with some fan leaf removal.
 
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Punky0923

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#31
So….I took off some leaf material. Yeah, not sure it was 1/3 but I tried no to go overboard. And while doing some LST I managed to snap off half of a nice branch( yes there was some yelling involved). Now I know, low stress, not break the dam branch stress lol, It’s all about learning at this stage for me. I still need to top, I wanted to but the nodes on top are so thick and I can’t separate to see so I will wait a day and see if they stretch a little so I can get to it.
 
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Punky0923

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#32

They grow a lot , but the nodes are so close they stay pretty stout. I’m guessing they will grow a lot during flower right? I have not yet topped the plant on the right because of this , I just want it to grow a bit more. All due to my inexperienced eye lol
 
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Aqua Man

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#33
Great work @Punky0923 keep it up
 
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Punky0923

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#34
So this plant is the Knights Templar OG and it’s exhibited some irregularities. It still grows well , short spacing so it’s chunky but it keeps having discrepancies in its canopy. I’ve read about Mosaic Virus but don’t have the grow experience to know either way. Mostly it’s been on the larger leaves. Not too worried, but still, any thoughts?
 
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freezeland2

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#35
Punky0923 said:
So this plant is the Knights Templar OG and it’s exhibited some irregularities. It still grows well , short spacing so it’s chunky but it keeps having discrepancies in its canopy. I’ve read about Mosaic Virus but don’t have the grow experience to know either way. Mostly it’s been on the larger leaves. Not too worried, but still, any thoughts? View attachment 1252749View attachment 1252750
Click to expand...
That’s not mosaic virus. This is mosaic virus.
 

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Punky0923

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#36
freezeland2 said:
That’s not mosaic virus. This is mosaic virus.
Click to expand...
Whoa! And Whew!
 
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HaveApuff

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#37
Curious, now that you are into flower, have you increased your nutrients when you are feeding them? They will want more nutrients now as you go through the stretch
 
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Punky0923

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#38
HaveApuff said:
Curious, now that you are into flower, have you increased your nutrients when you are feeding them? They will want more nutrients now as you go through the stretch
Click to expand...
I certainly will, I did not think of that. I’m afraid of how tall these may get since I’ve never grown and it’s a confined space but we’ll see! Also will track down Some Raw Sweet as well. I’m not expecting much in the way of a Scrog but again, I’ll see what happens? Thank you for the heads up on Nutrients!!
 
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Punky0923

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#39
Good grief….the SCROG…. Lol yep I did manage to “ miss the boat” on that one I think. I didn’t top them soon enough and I’m trying to still train before week 5 to even out my tops. The netting is much too flimsy and much to large to do any real good which had led to the tying down of branches, in hopes it will even out. This of course is all hypothetical as I’ve never grown before hahaha. Here’s what they’re doing now that they’re on 12/12, Day 8. Any opinions on size, shape, etc of course are welcome!
 
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HaveApuff

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#40
Yes, you are correct that you should have done a topping sooner and allowed more branches to grow out, but for a first timer you are doing great , and if anything this is where you learn...through your own failures and accomplishments 8 days into flower means you are still going to get a little more stretch, so you can continue to move your bud sites on your branches along your SCROG to keep them spread out and even....but by third week stretch will start to subside and bud sites will start to fatten up from that point until finish...so, you only have so much time before you finish weaving your plants in under the SCROG. Also, to help promote growth of the canopy, you might lower your SCROG a little and use this to help spread the branches a little more, and you should trim up all the leaves and larf below your trellis, as this area will not get the light needed to produce anything worthwhile once your canopy starts to fill in anyway. Help promote growth to the canopy, if you understand, but must work fast as stretch is happening now
 

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Started May 28, 2022
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