New Fox Farm Soil Beneficial's

[Tex]

Cool bro, I thought so, must be really nice to go grab.. :D It does seem that the Tahoes are very lanky, viney even... You use clothes pins to pin then down to the side of pot, genius, i was just thinking bout what i had to do..!! Nice garden again and thanx for the info.

:rock

 

[waayne]

Here's a couple of pics of the 2 larger Bubba clones.my battery died in the middle of taking these pics so the first pic is of the VooDoo Juice & GreatWhite tester taken right before light's off..the second is the Fox Farm Bene's tester taken the next morning right before the light's came on...
i can't really see any difference at this time.
:passingjoint:

 

[dican01]

those ladies are looking good waayne. how far along into flower are they?
and what you got going on behind? more bubba?

 

[Seamaiden]

Thank's G.O.D.!!!
I am using GO's CalMag+
I'll run the bene's until about 3 week's into flower then end them.
I find that when I use ample soil Bene's I don't need to feed as much or as often.
I think the Bene's make the root system much more efficient so absorption and availabilty of nutrient's are more readily available and complete.

There's a bit more to it than that, but that's a good summary.

I wish I had seen this thread before, I would have asked you to try out Dr. Earth organic mixes. They're the myco source I've been using for years, just had to switch to Gardener & Bloom, but their list by propagules is similar to Dr. Earth's.

Also, as long as you don't use enough chemical salt levels to kill the bene's, and as long as you give them a little something to eat to continue propagation (molasses or other simple sugars are good) you should not have to continually re-inoculate your medium. Your goal is to culture the microbes more than anything else, then let them do the work of feeding the plants for you. And, it looks like they are!

A tip--add some humic acids to your mix for even better nutrient chelation/uptake. ;)

 

[waayne]

There's a bit more to it than that, but that's a good summary.

I wish I had seen this thread before, I would have asked you to try out Dr. Earth organic mixes. They're the myco source I've been using for years, just had to switch to Gardener & Bloom, but their list by propagules is similar to Dr. Earth's.

Also, as long as you don't use enough chemical salt levels to kill the bene's, and as long as you give them a little something to eat to continue propagation (molasses or other simple sugars are good) you should not have to continually re-inoculate your medium. Your goal is to culture the microbes more than anything else, then let them do the work of feeding the plants for you. And, it looks like they are!

A tip--add some humic acids to your mix for even better nutrient chelation/uptake. ;)

Seamaiden thank's for stoppin in and adding a little clarity to what is sometimes a hazy thread!:rock
Yeah I totally agree on just getting the bene's started and then just feeding them.I find that adding them after every transplant get's them established a little faster>>>and I transplant usually 5-6 times thru the life cycle of a production plant.I don't have availability of Dr.Earth's
product's so if you want to throw up a link so I can check it out that would be cool!;)
You're right on about nourishing the soil
bene's, any Chemical nutrient's just destroy the bene's! Gotta keep it 100% Organic to get the full benefit's......:rasta2:

 

[Seamaiden]

I've just finished reading an article in a sample of Acres, U.S.A. magazine on humic acids, and in this one short article I've not only learned a good bit more about humic acids to add to the background, but about (someone's gonna love this) amino acids and how they're formed by, get this, mycorrhizal associations (Glomus). I am definitely subscribing to this magazine, and will be purchasing some books from their library, first focusing on WEEDS. Because if you saw our property you would know why. :thinking

 

[waayne]

Update

Here's a couple of pics of the Bubba test clones still veggin>>>>>The Fox Farm clone got a little brighter light for a week and took advantage of it>>>they're all getting identical lighting again......
Left to right are Oregonism XL,Fox Farm Benes,and then Great White & VooDoo Juice.

:rasta2:

 

[420king-MASSES]

:sign0065: you must be Bret Bogue? or he was just strollin through your room?

ya man good call you beat me to it i was gonna ask this guy if bret bogue grows for him or if thats one of brets side handles

 

[waayne]

Update

Here are the 2 Bubba clones in flower.
The first pic is of the GreatWhite & VooDoo Juice clone .The second pic is of the Fox Farm benes clone.
I really can't see any difference.

:rasta2:

 

[BansheeRider]

for those of you who use bennies, do you use some sort of activator for the bacteria?
a local co here sells one with milk-proteins, carbs and molasses.

How important is it to use an activator when using beneficial bacteria?

Happy growing
BR

 

[Seamaiden]

Um... I use water? An activator? I use molasses/malted barley extract (thinned) to feed the starter culture. Is that what you mean? I'm not familiar with using proteins to get the microbes going, only complex carbohydrate chains, OR! what they really seem to like is small bits of wood and other "chewy" things like, say, canvas painter's cloth.

 

[Buddy Hemphill]

anybody used the Earth Juice Rooters Myco?

I am trying it as we speak.

$12.50 for a bottle of it....

I am soooooo trying to get away for paying for a label...

 

[BansheeRider]

Seamaiden - yes, that's exactly what i meant. Thanks for answering!

Peace
BR

 

[dirtysOrganics]

so how is the fox farms compared to great white and the voodoo?

 

[waayne]

Update

so how is the fox farms compared to great white and the voodoo?

Well here's the yield data on the Bubba Clones.
Fox Farm bene's = 278 grams dry weight
Oregonism = 286 grams dry weight
Voo Doo Juice & Great White = 293 grams dry weight
The clone's were vegged for 8 week's.
All clones were healthy and pest free.
All were harvested at 70 day's....
:passingjoint:

70 day Bubba Kush

 

[BigCountry]

for those of you who use bennies, do you use some sort of activator for the bacteria?
a local co here sells one with milk-proteins, carbs and molasses.

How important is it to use an activator when using beneficial bacteria?

Happy growing
BR

Interesting. This brings up the idea of food for bennies in cultures and in soil. Consider yogurt, a bacterial culture that feeds off of proteins, same with cheese.
Now consider the idea of adding carbs to compost teas to produce large colonies of Bacteria.
Both of these are food sources, sources of Carbon, Oxygen. In fact this is what keeps bacterial cultures alive in non-aerated environments.
Good topic for more info...

 

[CT Guy]

Yes, bottled nutes and beneficials are convenient, but if you made a good aerated comopst tea you'd have millions of bacteria and other beneficial microbes as well as active fungi and active protozoa (can't get that in bottles) with thousands of different species, and it would already be a functioning consortium for nutrient cycling (like in nature).

If you need myco, look into the endo product by mycorrhizal applications or the one by bioag.com. Save you tons of money and it's a better product. (these hydro-oriented companies overprice their products because they know they're selling to mj growers).

As for "bio-activators," pick up some unsulfured molasses (I can get it at a feed store, QFC, or whole foods locally). Organic alfalfa meal will work as well or baby oatmeal from the grocery store (promotes bacterial feeding nematodes). Kelp or seaweed is another excellent product for increasing biological activity. Otherwise, you're just paying extra for a brand name.

Just my 2 cents though. If you have the money and like the products and your plants are happy, then I guess just stick with what you're doing.

Cheers,
CT

 

[sdgrower]

Looks Dank waayne!
I might have to try this Roots Organic potting soil out.

Cheers :animbong:

 

[purplover83]

hey waayne how much dolomite lime do you add per bag of roots organic soil mix?